Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • gago1gago1 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my accord 3 months ago and its been very fun to drive. I am kind of worried though since I have already noticed various problems. First, the panel on the drivers side where the window and mirror controls are located came loose. The other day I moved it around and with minimal force it came right out. Not a very rugged design! Second, the drivers seat seems to have quite a bit of play. At first I tried to ignore it, but lately I feel it's getting worse. Third, the clutch is very sensitive. I just can't get used to it. I have driven stick all my life and this one is just unpredictable. I will be heading to the dealer to hopefully get all this fixed. Has anyone else experienced any of these problems?
  • btorlvbtorlv Member Posts: 16
    HI where can I buy a ext honda warr for a 04 coupe? When I first take off when the car has been sitting over nite I can hear the brake or gas purge or click. Is this normal? thanks
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    gago: I've had two manual transmission Accords from this generation and they have both shifted flawlessly. Maybe your clutch needs an adjustment.

    btorlv: It's probably your ABS self-check. You will feel a slight rubbing or hear a slight noise when you first start to move.
  • mbedonombedono Member Posts: 15
    One of the reasons I have been buying toyotas and hondas for the past 30 years was and is the higher quality build. I have never had any thing go wrong on any of these cars before 120,000+ miles(we average around 7500-85000 miles per year) that would have justified paying the cost of an extended warranty. Of course, it's all a matter of what gives you peace of mind. But I have to say, shelling out for an extended warranty on these cars is betting on a longshot.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    Your logic is way off. First of all, your car is already covered for the first 3yrs/36K miles. Your are therefore paying $875 for a 4yr/64K mile warranty. That is approx $220/year, not $125. This is not counting any deductible or uncovered portions of any major repair.

    Also let me ask you this... Have you ever needed to use any of your extended care packages? How many have you purchased? The fact is that you are unlikely to take advantage of an extended care package given Honda's reliability record. This is especially true in your case given how much you over-maintain your vehicles at even more cost. Multiply this by however many Honda vehicles you have owned over the years and your are really wasting money. Not to mention the opportunity cost of not investing the money or using it for something more enjoyable like a vacation or a new widescreen HDTV!

    Saying something over and over again simply does not make it true. Your numbers are not "facts", they are merely opinions. You are buying piece-of-mind.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    The HondaCare Warranty does offer rental reimbursement, towing, roadside, and trip interruption reimbursement though. And you can get the warranty with a $0 deductible. So that kind of makes up for the slightly higher charge per yer that you calculated sockpuppet. Not that I have an extended warranty on my Accord but I don't think it's a terrible idea.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,691
    What is the cost for a $0 deductible for a 7yr/100k warranty? What have people been actually paying?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Years ago I purchased used GM vehicles that were just coming off lease. I would purchase them with less than 36,000 miles on the clock, and about 32 to 34 months old, so as such, they were eligible for an extended warranty. I would purchase the maximum extended warranty available,(usually about 75,000 miles). I would drive these vehicles for three years, (the life of the extended warranty), and then repeat the process. Over the three year period of time, I would either break even with the cost of the extended warranty, or I would be ahead of the game. I never lost money.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    I paid $800 for a 7 year/100,000 mile/$0 deductible warranty for my 99 Accord back in January of 99. When I bought my 03 Accord Coupe they offered me the same type of plan for $850 if I am not mistaken.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    I can understand purchasing an extended warranty on a used off-lease GM vehicle. (My off-lease '98 Chevy Blazer needed a new engine at 71K miles!) I just think the likelihood of using the warranty in a meaningful way is fairly low on a new Honda.

    Hey, that's why ice cream comes in different flavors. Do what you feel comforatable doing.
  • ramidaramida Member Posts: 67
    I have the same problem with this crap Honda 2003 Accord LX 5-speed manual clutch, especially when releasing the clutch after shifting to the 2nd gear. It tends to jump and create a thud-like hesitation (very annoying). It doesn't happen if you wait a second or two before releasing the clutch -- a workaround that may have a negative impact on the clutch in the long run. I brought this crap Honda to the dealership to have this clutch adjusted, but they said I just need to rev to at least 3000 RPM before shifting. It seemed to work, but this crap car roars (without any significant acceleration or thrust forward), and very embarassing that even an old Dodge Neon or Ford Escort speeds past by it when starting from a STOP light.

    I really hate this car, but I'm stuck with it because when you sell or trade in, you lose.

    Very disappointed.

    ramida
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    I would have the motor mounts checked on this vehicle! If the motor mounts are "ok", I would ask to drive another 2003 or 2004 Honda with the same equipment. If the other Honda does not have the same issue, I would suggest that the dealer investigate further. There could be a problem with the clutch assembly, linkage or the trans.. QUESTIONS: ----What do you mean by "jump" and a "thud like hesitation"? Does it feel like the engine is moving? ---Why does it only occur going into second gear? ---Why not 3rd ---etc? If it only does it in second gear, it is second gear related! ---- What would happen if you shifted from 1st to 3rd? See if you still get the noise! ----If the noise is still present, it could be suspension related! ---Something could be moving and / or flexing at a specific speed or torque. ----Just some suggestions. ---Greg
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Here is another suggestion. You and a friend take this vehicle to a quiet parking area, so that you will be able to hear noises. Open the hood, and have your friend stand to the side of the vehicle. He / she must be able to view the engine, but not be directly in front of the car. With the engine idling, place the transmission into second gear. Place your right foot on the brake, and let the clutch out. The engine will stall, but if you hear the noise you will know that it is second gear related. Your friend should watch the engine to see if it moves drastically. If the engine does not move, you know that it is a trans issue. If no noise is heard, then I would look at a speed / suspension / torque problem. Something is shifting in the vehicle, when starting from a dead stop, building up speed and shifting.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    I once had an issue that sounds like the one gago1 describes. I have a '98 Accord 5 speed. It finally broke down after thankfully getting me home from a long trip. While it turned out to be a clutch issue, it was not one I'd ever heard of before. My Clutch master/slave cylinder assembly had to be replaced. The repair was about 1/2 what a clutch costs. It's a hydraulic that forces a piston to engage the clutch and when it starts to go bad, the piston doesn't move as quickly as it should. What do U think gregoryc1?
  • asharerinasharerin Member Posts: 10
    In regards to a few of the recent posts for manual accords I do know there is a recall on 2003/2004 accords with a manual V6 transmission. Some type of potential problem with shifting into 2nd gear. May also affect the 4 cylindar models not sure.

    Definately call Honda customer service to find out the exact details this may take care of the problem. Or simply call the service dept. at your dealer and give them your VIN and they will tell you what work needs to be done. Hope this helps.
  • asharerinasharerin Member Posts: 10
    Hi you can buy online here (or at least get a quote so you know what you might pay at your dealer):

    http://www.curryhondacare.com/

    Probably a better idea to buy at your local Honda dealer it is the same price. Just remember these are sold at full retail price and are not as comprehensive as independant warranties but at least it is backed by Honda so they won't go bust. It might pay to get a copy of the Honda warranty and read it thoroughly and compare to warrantydirect.com and sleep on it and make a decision. Warrantydirect offer the best warranties available (also options for a much longer terms), have a very good rating and you can choose any service shop you like including your local Honda service dept. for repairs, but remember they are nowhere near as big as Honda and could very well go belly up at any time.....though not likely.

    Personally I would stick with the Honda backed warranty as you are taking a big gamble anyway and you don't want an extra gamble of the company not honoring the deal. I choose to have that money working harder elsewhere but as always different strokes for different folks.
  • ramidaramida Member Posts: 67
    Thanks. I must clarify that the problem I have previously described doesn't happen all the time. If I rev up to (or a little past) the 3000 RPM mark (roars so loud!), wait a second before releasing the clutch, then the thud and hesitation do not occur. The "problem" occurs when I'm at an intersection (stopped), and then needs to make a fast start or turn. The press on the gas pedal is probably not fast enough, or is a fraction of a second late, or the rev is not enough (below the 3000 RPM mark). I find this Honda clutch not intuitive to use.

    As for the tendency to "jump" when releasing the clutch, you can feel the car springs up, at the final release (just when I thought the clutch is fully released). The clutch is probably high.

    Sorry, I don't feel comfortable trying to shift from first to 3rd gear (as you suggested).

    ramida
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Anything is possible, but why is the issue only showing itself while going into 2nd gear? ---- If it is a clutch problem, the driver should experience the issue on the other shifts as well!---- Could it be a linkage problem? ---- A clutch problem would be a common issue to all gears.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    You can shift from 1st to 3rd. Don't do it in traffic. Take the car to a parking lot, and try it on level ground. Back in the 50's and 60's we would shift three speed transmissions from 1st to 3rd all the time. (We were "lazy") As long as the vehicle is on level ground, the engine should be able to handle the load. (You are only going to do this a couple of times). If you do not get the noise, you will know for sure that it is second gear related. If the noise appears, then it could be an issue in the shift process from 1st to any gear. (linkage?)
  • ramidaramida Member Posts: 67
    Thanks -- you've been very helpful! The "thud" sensation when releasing the clutch after shifting to second gear is not a grinding noise but a hiccup-like hesitation (probably my fault for not depressing the gas fast enough). I'm beginning to suspect the gas pedal being stiff. When on a heavy traffic jam and the gear is in 1st, the drive is rough because a press on the gas pedal (even if only slight) seems to advance the pedal in intervals (not a continuous, smooth movement). Thus, the ride is like bull ride with every slight press on the gas (with the gear in 1st). Is this normal?

    Thanks again.

    ramida
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Check the "free movement" of the "gas pedal". See if anything is binding. If the movement is not "free & easy" take the car back to the dealer. This is dangerous!!!!!!!!!!! The accelerator could stick in an "open" position.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    finally. now i just have to call to see about scheduling...
  • ramidaramida Member Posts: 67
    Does someone have a more detailed info about this recall on 2003/2004 V6 Accords with manual transmission? Thanks.
  • asharerinasharerin Member Posts: 10
    Ok I found this at dmv.org (doesn't say for what exact models). It appears this is for units with automatic transmission with V6 engine not the manual transmission I said in my earlier post. Another private site says there is a recall for the manual V6 accords......don't know in referance to what or just a typo:

    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 04V176000 Recall Date : APR 13, 2004
    Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
    Potential Number Of Units Affected : 1099796
    Summary:
     ON SOME MINI VANS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES, CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN RESULT IN HEAT BUILD-UP BETWEEN THE COUNTERSHAFT AND SECONDARY SHAFT SECOND GEARS IN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO GEAR TOOTH CHIPPING OR GEAR BREAKAGE.
    Consequence:
     GEAR FAILURE COULD RESULT IN TRANSMISSION LOCKUP, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
    Remedy:
     ON VEHICLES WITH 15,000 MILES OR LESS, THE DEALER WILL UPDATE THE TRANSMISSION WITH A SIMPLE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE TO INCREASE LUBRICATION TO THE SECOND GEAR. ON VEHICLES WITH MORE THAN 15,000 MILES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION TO IDENTIFY GEARS THAT HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED DISCOLORATION DUE TO OVERHEATING. IF DISCOLORATION EXISTS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL BE REPLACED IF DISCOLORATION IS NOT PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL PERFORM THE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 21, 2004, FOR PILOT, ODYSSEY, AND MDX OWNERS. OWNERS OF THE ACCORD VEHICLES WILL START RECEIVING LETTERS ON JUNE 28, 2004, AND ON JUNE 29, 2004, FOR OWNERS OF THE TL AND CL VEHICLES. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
    Notes:
     HONDA RECALL NOS. P30 (ODYSSEY AND PILOT), P31 (MDX), P38 (ACCORD) AND P39 (ACURA). CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

    From honda.com:

    TORRANCE, Calif., June 29, 2004 -- American Honda Motor Co., Inc. today announced that it will expand its existing voluntary recall of light truck models for a potential transmission defect to include certain Honda and Acura passenger cars. The voluntary action involves approximately 499,000 Honda and Acura passenger vehicles with V6 engines and 5-speed automatic transmissions. Affected models include certain 2003 and early 2004 model Accord V6 sedans and coupes, 2000-2003 and early 2004 Acura TL sedans, and 2001-2003 Acura CL coupes
  • kikibunnykikibunny Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 accord coupe ex v6 and periodically i can not initially get my car started. i will turn the ignition and you can hear the engine trying to turn but that is as far as it goes. The battery has been checked so i know it's not that. If i keep trying to start the engine it will always start up after about 20-30minutes. This has happened to me about 15 times in the past year and i've taken it to the dealer but they said they can't help me and don't know what the problem is because when i bring the car in, at that moment, it's working. i can't can't get it towed when it's dead cause by the time i get my car there, i know it will start. one of my other thoughts was that it might be my key but i've tried different keys with the same results. I don't know if this is a factor, but i've noticed that this always happens when the weather is really hot. please help! thanks!
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    Have you tried taking the key out, reinserting it and then trying to start it again? I had this same issue happen a few times with my previous Accord, a 2000 EX V6, and I finally found this to work when it happened. When I told the service tech at my dealership, he said that occasionally the key and the immobilizer wouldn't synch up on the first try.
  • kikibunnykikibunny Member Posts: 2
    that was one of my initial thoughts also but I'll try taking the key in and out constantly for 20-30 min before it finally starts so i'm not sure if it that.
  • nedlyjnedlyj Member Posts: 89
    Hi.

    We've had our 2004 EX V6 for only a few days now and I have a few questions about some little things - i.e. I'm curious if what I'm seeing is "normal". Any comments would be appreciated.

    1. "Courtesy" light
    (That little red led light that shines down onto the gearshift area at night when you lights are on.) My question is: does that light ever go off? It comes on when I turn the lights on, and I've never seen it go off during driving.

    2. Recirculate on Auto climate control
    I've noticed that occassionally my Recirculate is on when in Auto climate control mode - and then never goes off. For example, today, I got in and set the temp to 70 (outside temp was about 75). After a minute, the recirculate light turned on and air volume was increased. However, after quite a few minutes, it was very cold in the car and recirc hadn't turned off. The only way to make it turn off was to turn the temp way up to about 85. Once it did turn off, then I could turn the temp back down to 70 and it was fine. This has happened twice.

    3. Distortion in windshield
    I know I asked this before, but got no responses. I have some distortion in the windshield on the passenger side. It is right above where the black screen pattern is on the bottom of the glass - about a 1-2 inch band. I looked at several others on the lot today when I was at the dealer, and they all had some distortion there too. So either this was a bad lot, or this is pretty common.

    Guess that's it for now.

    Thanks,

    -n
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    I had my 25K service done at the dealer today. Normally, I take my car to my local Honda mechanic but since I had some warranty issues I decided to have the regular maintenance stuff done there too.

    He ordered a new "seat track" to try and fix the shifting driver's seat. No charge under warranty. We'll see if it works.

    Get this though... all the 25K service under severe condition schedule (4cyl) calls for is an oil change. Guess how much this cost? $82.63! FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND TIRE ROTATION! What a rip-off. The oil change alone cost $61.47! Dealers are such crooks. I had the entire 20K service done at my personal mechanic including all the required "checks" and a tire rotation for a total of $36.72. Last time I go to the dealer for anything but warranty work.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    We charge around 30.00 for an oil change.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Go to another dealer!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • nedlyjnedlyj Member Posts: 89
    There "are" reputable dealers out there, and there are bad ones. I'm fortunate enough to live close to two good ones who are fair and honest.

    Sounds like isellhondas is from a reputable dealer as well (of course I remember you from back in 99 discussing the Odyssey too, so I know you're an honest Honda dealer).

    I do have a question for you (isellhondas). Have you heard of (or have any information on) any of the items I noted in message #8399? You're closer to this than most people so I'm interested in your experience.

    THanks.

    -n
  • runner5runner5 Member Posts: 1
    I too have stopped going to a dealer for oil change. They charge too much, so i now go to a regular gas station which used to service my old Toyota before and pay just under $25-oil plus filter and fluid level check up. My friend in Jersey pays even less $19.95. Also the dealer used to charge some 60 to 61 dollars if u forgot to bring the coupon which they mailed to u. By the way i ran my old Toyota to 165,000 miles before the tranny went bad.
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    Yeah, they told me the price of the service over the phone before I went in. I assumed that much money included at least some of the "inspections" dealers are famous for over-charging for. Shows what you get for assuming. I was pretty surprised to read the bill afterwards and find out all they did was change the oil/filter and rotate the tires.

    This is the same dealer that forgot to tighten my oil drain plug after my 15K service.

    At least they are replacing my driver's seat frame to correct the seat shifting problem I am having without any argument.
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    Wow!--$83 for an oil change/tire rotation? Oil changes at my dealer are $20.77 (after tax) and a tire rotation is an even $15. They never pressure me to do anything I don't want/need.

    A couple other dealers nearby are $24.99 + tax and $29.99 + tax for an oil change, but I rarely go to either of them.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    Just had the oil changed w/ filter and inspection for $19.95 with coupon. Deducted $7 from that because I supplied my own synthetic oil (they advised me to buy my own rather than pay their price). Another coupon got rotation, balance and alignment check for $29.95. Cannot complain and will use dealer for routine maintenance (they don't push too hard for all the unneeded inspection stuff) as long as they provide coupons.
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I just bought a used 1997 Honda Accord LX and wanted to change the oil in the transmission. I wanted to put synthetic oil and was wondering what the requirements were and if you guys had any links to buy the stuff from?

    Also should I look out for or change any stuff in the car? it has 130,000 miles.

    Thanks.
  • theraywatchertheraywatcher Member Posts: 2
    Newbies here. Just bought a used 2000 Honda Accord Ex for $14300 and hope I didn't get taken. It shifts weird and shakes when it goes up hill. I might not be used to Hondas, but I feel like there is a problem.

    It will reach 4000 RPM before changing gears sometimes and when it does shift, the car jerks a little. Is it the V-6 or what? I plan on getting a full tune-up ASAP.

    I have a Camry and know that when I punch it, it goes. This is our 3rd Accord and this is making me worry a little. I appreciate any help.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    How many miles are on the Accord you purchased?
  • theraywatchertheraywatcher Member Posts: 2
    OH...the car only has 58900 miles on it.

    THANKS....
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    Accords from that year had an extended warranty on the EGR valve. My sister-in-law has a 2000 EX V6 with around 90,000 miles and noticed her car was running a little rougher than it did when she bought it. She took it to the dealer and it turned out to be the EGR valve. You may want to have that checked out as the warranty is for 80,000 miles on this item.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    "Newbies here. Just bought a used 2000 Honda Accord Ex for $14300 and hope I didn't get taken. It shifts weird and shakes when it goes up hill. I might not be used to Hondas, but I feel like there is a problem."

    Do keep in mind that until the current generation of Accord, the automatic transmissions shifted VERY firmly, particularly 1st to 2nd. But there shouldn't be any noticeable slippage.

    When you say it shakes when it goes up hill, does it feel like it's making "mini-lurches" as you go uphill when the transmission is in lockup mode?

    If it's what I think it is, Honda has a TSB (00-038) on the torque converter. Here's the basics:

    Vibration While Driving at Low Speeds
    (Supersedes 00-038, dated April 25, 2000)

    SYMPTOM
    Shudder/judder when driving at speeds between 20
    and 40 mph. This vibration is most noticeable when the torque converter lock-up clutch is in the partial lock-up mode.

    PROBABLE CAUSE
    Irregularities in the torque converter face prevent the lock-up clutch from smoothly engaging.

    CORRECTIVE ACTION
    Replace the torque converter.

    I'm not sure if this would correct the shifting irregularities... the following symptoms may warrant a transmission replacement.

    • While driving, the D4 indicator on the instrument panel flashes.
    • An abnormally loud noise from the transmission.
    • Extremely slow or delayed gear engagement, upshifts,
    or downshifts.
    • Abnormal gear slippage during upshifts or downshifts.
    • Erratic or excessively harsh shifting.
    • Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) leaks.

    This is from TBS 02-062.

    If either of these would be the case, the extended warranty that Honda provided for 00-01 V6 Accords (7 years/100,000 miles) should cover it.

    Hope this helps...
  • kasperghostkasperghost Member Posts: 72
    I am wondering if anybody has any advice or experienced this tranny problem. It sounds like I need to go down to the garage for this expensive one. The car started slipping and would fade in and out of gear. It would also have trouble engaging into gear. It has about 30k on this change of tranny fluid (honda service). It has had all regular tranny services. It has about 140k total miles. This happened once and I have not driven it since...maybe 3 miles total. the tranny fluid doesn't have a burnt smell and is still pink.

    Any suggestions or costs... it would seem that lack of driving would of minimized any damage.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    I would not use a synthetic lubricant at 130,000 miles!
  • mikesidmikesid Member Posts: 29
    I have 194000 on my 98 honda accord and I am now getting a new transmission (still in the shop). I experienced similiar symptoms. Mine started about a year ago when i was in traffic and when i stepped on the gas the RPM would go to 5000 then the gear would drop. I took it to my dealer AND a transmission guy and they both told me nothing was wrong. that it was normal wear from having so many miles. 2 weeks ago i was driving and it wouldnt shift or it would slip. So now its getting a new transmission. and after i specifically asked two different people (the dealer i asked about a month before it went bad) if something was wrong and they told me no. I know they dont last forever but it would have been nice if someone could have told me that it wasgoing bad.
  • rumpletzerrumpletzer Member Posts: 39
    I've got a 2004 V6 Accord with about 15K miles on it. I've had no brake problems, and there's no vibration from the wheels when I'm braking. The tires still need to be rotated.

    I noticed this week that I need to press the brake pedal in a lot further to get the car to slow down. I mean, almost to the floor. If I pump the brake pedal twice, the second pump is a lot more resistive.

    Also, I can feel a few light pulses (or vibrations) IN THE BRAKE PEDAL as I depress it through the first few centimeters. It happens every time I press on the brake no matter what speed I'm going.

    The brakes just seem to have gone weak, and it's been a little scary driving this week when traffic would slow abruptly on the interstate.

    The brake fluid is full and I don't see any leaks near what I guess is the master cylinder, at the wheels, or on my garage floor. The pads look plenty thick, and the disks look/feel smooth and normal.

    I certainly feel I'll need to have the car looked at, but does anyone have an idea of what could be going on?
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    A possible internal problem in the master cylinder. This could be a dangerous problem. Have it looked at immediately!
  • serendipserendip Member Posts: 60
    It must vary by dealer; my car had under 8000 miles on it when the transmission recall was done, and they took digital photos of the transmission - I saw them. Oil jet (am I the only one who types "ink jet" and has to fix it?!) kit was installed.
  • markv6markv6 Member Posts: 4
    Hello All,

    1. The Honda owner's site stated the 1st oil change should be 7500k mile...Is that a mistake??? Shouldn't it be every 3K. How often do you guys change your oil???

    2. I have a accord v6 coupe and it states to ONLY use 5w-20 oil. Is that a must? what is the drawback and the difference of the other ones e.g 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40???? What is synethic? Please help clarify this for me...I'm a newbie to this auto stuff

    Much appreciated and thanks in advance your time & help

    Mark
  • nedlyjnedlyj Member Posts: 89
    Nope - no mistake. 7500 miles and use 5W-20. I was specifically told by the dealer that oli changes are NOT required more frequently on this car. And, it only requires 86 octane fuel.

    I'm not complaining.

    -n
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