I just traded in my 03 ex-v6 for a brand new 05 ex-v6 with navi.
about 80 miles into my car and the 2nd day I get this horrendous and very loud creaking noise coming from the A-pillar windshield area. My 03 never did this but did have it's share of other rattles
I haven't called the dealer yet because i'm scared they will just make it worse or make something else start rattling. Although they do still have to install my day/night mirror.
Apparently this is happening in the TSX as well. It almost sounds as if my windshield is going to fall out
2004 Accord LX Auto V6 about 9000 miles. I too experience the same one single pop noise. Only in the morning backing out of the garage then turn right and SLOWLY move forward, the one single sound comes about 100 feet (like something hitting the bottom of the car). Maybe of the recent weather, but seems like happen on cold days (but not everyday).
I had a similar problem with my 03,v6,coupe. I thought it was coming from the inside. I used a stethoscope while driving and could not find an internal creak. I jammed all the seams I could with popsicle sticks to tighten things up but this didn't help. The sound seemed to now be coming from outside of the driver side A pillar. There is a plastic strip that runs along the edge of the pillar and contacts the windsheild. When I elevated this strip and held it with the popsicle stick, in several places, the creaking stopped. I left it this way for a week and when removed the plastic strip moved back into position but with less pressure on the window. No more creak. This was over a year ago and it has not returned. Don't know for sure if we all have the same 'creak' but this is how i solved my problem which was driving me crazy.
not only do i have a weird rattle problem with my 2003 honda ex - but the other day I got in my car and all my windows were halfway rolled down. The car was locked and the windows were rolled up when I left it the night before. Has this happened to anybody else? It feels kind of weird and creepy. Is it some kind of electrical problem?
My car has been very tight and rattle free; however, there was a slight creaking from the passenger side.
Sprayed some WD-40 on the 2 layers of weather stripping on the doors and perimeter of the door openings on the body. I don't hear any annoying noises now.
Honda Accords have 2 rubber door gaskets insulating the inside of the car from the outside. The rubber parts probably squeak a bit against each other and a spritz of WD-40 seems to fix that. Try it.....Richard
Does anyone have a rattle in their steering column in an '03-'05 Accord sedan? Mine is an '04 EX-V6 sedan, and I have had bad luck with the dealer fixing it (3 trips so far to two different dealers). Anyone have any advice or similar experience? Thanks.
What CD version is the newest accord with navi supposed to come with? Mine came with the 3.30g CD but when I called honda, they said the newest is 3.40b. What CD did everyone's 2005 Accord EX Navi come with?
Yeah, I fixed my rattling that was coming from the passenger dash board. I was determined to find where my rattling came from even if it meant taking the dashboard apart. I started out banging the bottom of my dashboard to see if the noise would come back. Then I found a section of the glove compartment that I hit that would produce that annoying sound that was keeping me from enjoying the car. So first I thought it was the glove compartment itself. So when I dropped the glove compartment I looked inside the dash to see if anything would cause this rattling. Couldn’t see anything that would rattle, then I started hitting the side of the dash board around where that access panel is when the door is open. There was that rattle again. I saw the Damper Assembly of the glove compartment rattling. It is held in by a single screw and is supposed to be attached to the glove compartment via its hook that clips onto the glove compartment. Now I’ve dropped this glove compartment a few times in the past routing power wires for my amp that I installed, but never remember disconnecting this absorber. The absorber was pushed in all the way in so it was hard for me to see at first. But when I hit the side of the dash, it is in a space that causes a fine tune rattle that had to be the noise. Like I said I don’t ever remember disconnecting this rod, so I don’t how I could drop the glove compartment without disconnecting the rod. Oh well I reattached the rod to the glove compartment, and noticed there was still room for the assembly to rattle. So I stuffed a small lint free rag I had laying around into that small space. Now there was no room to rattle and the assembly still did its job. Took the car out for a spin at 2am, no outside noise to keep me from hearing the rattle. Drove my normal route and never heard the rattle come back. I even drove over center lane dividers which usually made the noise and couldn’t get the rattle to come back. Then I finally returned to my apartment complex with its cobblestone entry that always caused the noise and nothing. I still have the suspension pop, but only when I did the exact same thing I previously wrote. I’ll look at that later. I hope that this might help some people with the similar rattle. I don’t know if I caused this or if it came from the factory disconnected. But I drove the car noise free and now I love my accord again. I tried to attach a picture of the part, but the post wouldn't let me. Sorry, but if you go to www.hondaautomotiveparts.com you can click on Honda parts catalog online and select your car model and under the component selection tab choose “Instrument Panel Garnish (passenger side)” in which the part that I had a problem with was number 27.
Hello all. If anyone can help me out I'd greatly appreciate it.
Just purchased a '98 Accord EX V6 coupe. Seems to be in great shape. 78k miles on it, and it had the tranny replaced at 74k miles by honda under warranty. I'd like to have the timing belt/water pump replaced, along with the distributor, spark plugs, air filters, and brakes flushed. Can anyone recommend what else i should do? Anything problems i should look out for?
Plaza Honda in Brooklyn, NY quoted me a price of $750 for the timing belt/water pump job. South Shore Honda quoted me $695. Dont these prices seem quite?
Can anyone recommend a quality shop in the NYC area? To me, $750 seems like borderline sodomy.
I have a two week old 2005 EX-L with NAV. When I have an address for the Navi, it works great and I love it. However, there are times I don't know the address and want to use the Navi like the yellow pages. When I search by place and type in something like "Home Depot" or "K-Mart," it comes up with numerous categories and the first few are always really far away, like the wrong region of the country!! Sometimes, if I touch every result the Navi returns, I can find my local store (time consuming), but sometimes I can't. How have others solved this problem? Or do you just give up trying to use it like the yellow pages? Thanks for any advice!
with the automatic climate control. Either push the a/c off before or after you push the the fan switch to make sure its off. It will say "ac off" onthe display. A little annoying..but just a small negative to have an amazing auto climate control..and heated seats.
I've been reading a lot of posts about the Accord ABS Self-check making noise. So I wanted to know what this was and found a Honda Service Newsletter article that Honda Techs use that had the following.
ABS Grunts When Doing a Self-CheckNOTE: This article applies to ’98–04 Accords, ’96–04 Civics, ’97–04 CR-Vs, ’00–04 Insights, ’98–04 Odysseys, ’03–04 Pilots, and ’00–04 S2000s.
Are owners of vehicles with a “compact” ABS complaining of hearing a short grunt or groan when backing or moving the vehicle forward after its’s been sitting awhile? It could just be the ABS doing its self-check. A compact ABS has a modulator, a pump, and an accumulator all rolled into one. (Later model vehicles don’t even use an accumulator.) The system is designed to do a self-check when the vehicle reaches a speed of at least 7 mph either forward or backward after sitting. So the grunt is normal; it doesn’t mean there’s a problem with the ABS. On some models, you’ll even feel a vibration through the brake and accelerator pedals when you hear the noise.You can show your customer just how this ABS self-check works by connecting the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the 16P data link connector, and running the ABS function test. (This test cycles the ABS solenoid and runs the ABS pump.) The noise from the test may be louder than the noise made by the actual ABS self-check, but it lets your customer hear the noise and helps you to determine if the noise is ABS-related or coming from another source.
Over the last few days, I started having the following problem - After the car is started, the climate control would not turn on. I have to switch to manual mode and then back to automatic to get it going.
I will be away for about a month. During that time, my Accord ('05 EX-V6) will be parked in my drive-way. It will not be driven or cranked up the whole time. Will this affect the car in any way?
Better post your address so we can come by to check on your car and your house too. LOL.
Seriously, the only thing I'd wonder about is whether the tires would flat-spot and thump a little when you first drove it again (if the weather was very cold). I think that's unlikely though.
I DID read a post once from someone who parked a hybrid electric vehicle for over a month and came back to battery problems that the manufacturer wouldn't take care of under warranty. Yikes. That's the only post like that I've ever seen though. Enjoy your trip.
Had the same problem about 6 months ago at 18,000 miles. It rattled and shook, mostly going around corners. The dealer replaced the rack and so far no more problems.
Dead battery is a possibility--park the car so you can jump start it easily. Also, when you return, be sure to run the A/C which should be used often to keep seals from drying/leaking.
One month isn't so long--think of all those unsold Saturn LS things that have been in dealers' inventories for months. They run OK after somebody eventually buys them......Richard
On the 1998-2002 Accord, if the dealer forgets to reset the maintenance interval indicator, cant you reset it by holding down something (i think the trip odometer) while the key is in ignition-on-position-2? Ive done this before in the past but wanted to verify. Thanks
I got the same problem. Brand new 05 LX Sedan. The problems occurs everytime i hit an uneven pavement on the driver side. I haven't take it back yet but I suspect it's the the plastic piece on the instrument panel. There's 2 screws holding it in. I will let you know if I find something this weekend.
If you are going to be away for a month you will probably find a lot of dust on your Accord when you return. If you live in a cold climate you may find some snow or ice on it. Otherwise, just get in the Accord, turn the key, and drive happily off.
Make sure NOT to have anyone start it up while you are away. That would just be an invitation for a weakened battery if the vehicle isn't driven enough to recharge the battery after the start (probably at least five or ten miles).
My 2005 Honda Accord EX that I purchased on November 4th was in the shop 4 days last week and after driving it one day the noises returned. I brought it back in this Monday, it is now Tuesday evening and it is still at the dealership. It sounds like it is coming from the corner of the car where the windshield and dashboard meet. The dealer took out the dashboard and said that they sealed some panels that had not been sealed but obviously that was not the cause.
I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX, which I purchased a couple of months ago and love. The only feature I don't love, and would like to disable, is the ability to roll down all four windows while using the remote to unlock the car doors. I do this by mistake more often than not, and have a couple of times rolled the windows down without knowing it. I live in a rainy climate
There is an extremely simple fix for your problem. It does not require any disablement of the "all window roll-down" feature designed into your Accord.
When you unlock your driver's door, just press the unlock button on your remote control BRIEFLY once. Don't HOLD it down. If you want to open all doors, press the unlock button on your remote control BRIEFLY twice. Don't HOLD it down.
If you don't want to use the "all window roll-down" feature, just don't.
I thought it was coming from the inside. I used a stethoscope while driving and could not find an internal creak....The sound seemed to now be coming from outside of the driver side A pillar. There is a plastic strip that runs along the edge of the pillar and contacts the windshield. When I elevated this strip and held it with the popsicle stick, in several places, the creaking stopped.
I agree with you. I too thought for sure that the sound was coming from inside above the driver's sunvisor. Driving with my nose on the steering wheel today, I could hear that the sound is actually coming from the A-pillar. I'm going to try lifting the seal on the windshield and lubricating it to see what happens.
We just got our 2004 EX 6 Coupe back from the Honda dealer. We had had the headliner noise (we thought it was the headliner) since we picked up the car in April 2004. The problem was that it was intermittent. It seems to be sensitive to temperature and humidity changes. Of course the morning I brought the car in it rained, so when the Honda tech tested the car it did not make any noise. In the afternoon I drove the car with the service manager in the passenger seat. The sun had come out, the humidity was down and both of us heard the noise. When I received the call to come pick up the car I was told the problem was in the A pillar and the tweeter located on the left side of the dash. Drove the car home on bumpy roads and the noises seem to be gone, finally! What seemed to be a noise coming from the headliner over the driver's visor was actually coming from the A pillar and the tweeter mounted in the dash. Guess that is why rattles tend to drive both the service people and the car owners up a wall. My hope is that this problem is corrected so that we can continue to enjoy this car.
I agree with the previous poster about not holding down the buttons. From my experience it is rather difficult to get all 4 windows to roll down accidentally. The amount of time required to hold down the button is significant enough that it can't be done just shifting around in your pants pocket or in your purse.
Under normal driving conditions the engine suddenly stopped and the dash lit up like xmas! I turned the car off and it restarted as if nothing was wrong. Over the last 30 days the car has stalled at least once a day. No light show, just a sudden shut down. No idiot lights...nothing and for no apparent reason. I suspect electrical (maybe fuel pump or ignition module). I reviewed most of this forum and found several similar posts but, with no apparent solutions. The car usually starts right up as if nothing was wrong once I reset the ingnition to "off" then "restart". ANY SUGGESTIONS? 99 Accord 4cyl AT 42k miles
You don't say if the stalls occur at sustained high rpm, at idle, or at random.
If the stalls are at idle, I'd recommend increasing the idle speed slightly. If it's too low, the engine won't be able to recover from an ignition stumble.
On the other hand, if this is happening when you're driving at speed, then I'd be looking at spark plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter first. Also, Discount Auto Parts will pull trouble codes from your car's computer for free (if any codes are present).
OK, I couldn't find the CD, but then realized I had to have the key in the ignition to get to the CD. I don't have either version you mentioned--I have version 4.30A.
I have taken my '04 EX-V6 sedan four times now for a steering column rattle: the first time, dealer replaced steering wheel covers, but this didn't work; second time at different dealer (chose only b/c more convenient location)-"didn't hear it", 3rd time at the same/second dealer - I demonstrated it clearly to service mgr, but "didn't have enough time to figure it out"; then 4th time, today- they told me it's coming from the springs that are part of the horn system, and that they contacted Honda about it. Apparently Honda is aware of this problem (several complaints already), yet there's nothing right now that can be done. It seems to be that the springs are somewhat loose and that over certain road conditions (50% of the time in my car), a rattle can be heard, which is very annoying for me.
Has anyone else out there had a similar experience, and any "solutions"? The dealer told me that if they were to cushion the area with foam, for example, that that would be considered interfering with safety (horn system), and would not be allowed (i.e. 'illegal move'). Very frustrating on new car!!! Let alone 'top of the line, luxury model' Honda! Any thoughts, ideas, empathy, would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have an '03 Accord EX V6 and have had problems with brake vibration. I have had the car into the dealer once and they turned the rotors - all okay. But, it did not take long and I had the vibration again. I love hondas - have had many of them including a Legend - but am frustrated with the vibration on the brakes.
I drove an 03 Buick Century recently (company fleet) and the brakes were so smooth! My Accord's breaks should not have this annoying problem. Every thing else about my accord is perfect - but the brakes get on my nerves. Any tips?
Based upon the invoice I received when I picked up the car the dealer's service people "insulated the left front of the dashboard, insulated the tweeter left front dashboard, insulated left front A-pillar" The process they used to trouble-shoot the problem was as follows: "removed A-pillar trim, test drove vehicle noise still there. Removed left tweeter and left side dash panel. Test drove, started by putting one piece back at a time to get the noise to act up. Found tweeter and dash bracket making noise, insulated both and test drove."
My wife did lots of driving yesterday, no noise. Hope this information helps.
There is an Aftermarket fix for all vehicles with this problem. You can purchase "Cross-Drilled Rotors" and brake pads to go with those rotors. The holes in the rotors will allow additional air to circulate, and remove brake heat. Also, it is very important to use a Torque Wrench when tightening wheel lugs.
The buttons that indicate the direction of the air flow (to the face, to the feet, defrost, etc) are no longer illuminated when I have the headlights on. I have a 00 Accord, with 61k miles. The A/C light, the recirc, fresh air, all still illuminate.
Is it a blown fuse or something else? How can I fix this?
If you search this discussion, you'll find several suggested solutions.
Post 8945 suggests adjusting the calipers, in case they're not fully releasing when you let off the brakes. Subsequent posts, however, expressed some skepticism about that solution.
I got rid of my 03 Accord due to the recurring brake problems, but I didn't try the aftermarket solution or caliper adjustment mentioned here. I simply lost confidence in the brake system and felt it would be better to move on.
You may find that one of the solutions mentioned here solves your problem though.
A reputable independent brake shop should be able to evaluate your brake condition for a nominal fee or even for free. As someone who's had plenty of brake problems with past Mitsubishi autos, I'd want to get the car on a lift and evaluate brake drag.
If this is being handled as a warranty issue, until the car is out of warranty I'd keep going back to Honda again and again. Out of warranty, I'd have a trusted independent shop put on aftermarket rotors and pads with a 12-month/12,000-mile warranty and see what develops.
The car stalls while accelerating, steady speed and deceleration. I thought the recall of the ignition switch may have something to do with it, I have not had that done yet. Car is in a body shop at the moment. After I get it back, I will get the switch replaced before I start hunting other possible causes. Your idea of going to discount parts for trouble codes is a good suggestion. Thanks.
Oddly enough, it's happening to me all the time. I suppose I just need to get a lighter "trigger finger," but often when I push the unlock button the 2nd time it's not enough to unlock all four doors, so I end up rolling down all the windows...
I really wish I could get this feature disabled - I live in the Pacific Northwest, where it's rainy lots of the time. I assume the only advantage to this feature is being able to vent the car before you get in it?
Could it be that it's just the key transmitter that is the problem. Have you tried your other key to see if the same problem occurs?
Your car can learn to read up to three remote transmitters and it's easy to program (although entering the car into program mode erases all learned codes and you have to learn all your transmitters, new and old, at the same time).
My '89 Accord revs up wildly while idling, either in N or P position, both warm and cold. I've been told it's due to air trapped in radiator. I thought it makes sense since I just flushed the radiator recently. I opened the valve near the Thermostat to let air out. The effort didn't turn out much result. Then a friend said to replace air filter...kindda makes sense as well since I haven't replaced it for almost 2 yrs....you can imagine the dirt. I replaced the air filter, but it didn't make a difference.
I search the Honda forum here, over 2 millions according to the quiry, but didn't find anything resemble my problem. So I figure I post the question here and see if anyone can offer useful insights.
Comments
I just traded in my 03 ex-v6 for a brand new 05 ex-v6 with navi.
about 80 miles into my car and the 2nd day I get this horrendous and very loud creaking noise coming from the A-pillar windshield area. My 03 never did this but did have it's share of other rattles
I haven't called the dealer yet because i'm scared they will just make it worse or make something else start rattling. Although they do still have to install my day/night mirror.
Apparently this is happening in the TSX as well. It almost sounds as if my windshield is going to fall out
Sprayed some WD-40 on the 2 layers of weather stripping on the doors and perimeter of the door openings on the body. I don't hear any annoying noises now.
Honda Accords have 2 rubber door gaskets insulating the inside of the car from the outside. The rubber parts probably squeak a bit against each other and a spritz of WD-40 seems to fix that. Try it.....Richard
Just purchased a '98 Accord EX V6 coupe. Seems to be in great shape. 78k miles on it, and it had the tranny replaced at 74k miles by honda under warranty. I'd like to have the timing belt/water pump replaced, along with the distributor, spark plugs, air filters, and brakes flushed. Can anyone recommend what else i should do? Anything problems i should look out for?
Plaza Honda in Brooklyn, NY quoted me a price of $750 for the timing belt/water pump job. South Shore Honda quoted me $695. Dont these prices seem quite?
Can anyone recommend a quality shop in the NYC area? To me, $750 seems like borderline sodomy.
thanks in advance.
ABS Grunts When Doing a Self-CheckNOTE: This article applies to ’98–04 Accords, ’96–04 Civics, ’97–04 CR-Vs, ’00–04 Insights, ’98–04 Odysseys, ’03–04 Pilots, and ’00–04 S2000s.
Are owners of vehicles with a “compact” ABS complaining of hearing a short grunt or groan when backing or moving the vehicle forward after its’s been sitting awhile? It could just be the ABS doing its self-check. A compact ABS has a modulator, a pump, and an accumulator all rolled into one. (Later model vehicles don’t even use an accumulator.) The system is designed to do a self-check when the vehicle reaches a speed of at least 7 mph either forward or backward after sitting. So the grunt is normal; it doesn’t mean there’s a problem with the ABS. On some models, you’ll even feel a vibration through the brake and accelerator pedals when you hear the noise.You can show your customer just how this ABS self-check works by connecting the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the 16P data link connector, and running the ABS function test. (This test cycles the ABS solenoid and runs the ABS pump.) The noise from the test may be louder than the noise made by the actual ABS self-check, but it lets your customer hear the noise and helps you to determine if the noise is ABS-related or coming from another source.
I have 04 EXV6 with Navi.
The climate control is always in automatic mode.
Over the last few days, I started having the following problem - After the car is started, the climate control would not turn on. I have to switch to manual mode and then back to automatic to get it going.
Anyone else having this problem? Any ideas?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Seriously, the only thing I'd wonder about is whether the tires would flat-spot and thump a little when you first drove it again (if the weather was very cold). I think that's unlikely though.
I DID read a post once from someone who parked a hybrid electric vehicle for over a month and came back to battery problems that the manufacturer wouldn't take care of under warranty. Yikes. That's the only post like that I've ever seen though. Enjoy your trip.
One month isn't so long--think of all those unsold Saturn LS things that have been in dealers' inventories for months. They run OK after somebody eventually buys them......Richard
alcan, "Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions" #8977, 12 Dec 2004 12:15 am
Make sure NOT to have anyone start it up while you are away. That would just be an invitation for a weakened battery if the vehicle isn't driven enough to recharge the battery after the start (probably at least five or ten miles).
Does anyone know how to disable this "feature"?
Thanks.
There is an extremely simple fix for your problem. It does not require any disablement of the "all window roll-down" feature designed into your Accord.
When you unlock your driver's door, just press the unlock button on your remote control BRIEFLY once. Don't HOLD it down. If you want to open all doors, press the unlock button on your remote control BRIEFLY twice. Don't HOLD it down.
If you don't want to use the "all window roll-down" feature, just don't.
I agree with you. I too thought for sure that the sound was coming from inside above the driver's sunvisor. Driving with my nose on the steering wheel today, I could hear that the sound is actually coming from the A-pillar. I'm going to try lifting the seal on the windshield and lubricating it to see what happens.
Hopefully, Honda will generate a Technical Service Bulletin on this issue soon so that dealer service departments will know what to do.
I agree with the previous poster about not holding down the buttons. From my experience it is rather difficult to get all 4 windows to roll down accidentally. The amount of time required to hold down the button is significant enough that it can't be done just shifting around in your pants pocket or in your purse.
I have not heard of this feature being disabled.
You really don't like that feature???
Under normal driving conditions the engine suddenly stopped and the dash lit up like xmas! I turned the car off and it restarted as if nothing was wrong. Over the last 30 days the car has stalled at least once a day. No light show, just a sudden shut down. No idiot lights...nothing and for no apparent reason. I suspect electrical (maybe fuel pump or ignition module). I reviewed most of this forum and found several similar posts but, with no apparent solutions. The car usually starts right up as if nothing was wrong once I reset the ingnition to "off" then "restart". ANY SUGGESTIONS? 99 Accord 4cyl AT 42k miles
If the stalls are at idle, I'd recommend increasing the idle speed slightly. If it's too low, the engine won't be able to recover from an ignition stumble.
On the other hand, if this is happening when you're driving at speed, then I'd be looking at spark plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter first. Also, Discount Auto Parts will pull trouble codes from your car's computer for free (if any codes are present).
Has anyone else out there had a similar experience, and any "solutions"? The dealer told me that if they were to cushion the area with foam, for example, that that would be considered interfering with safety (horn system), and would not be allowed (i.e. 'illegal move'). Very frustrating on new car!!! Let alone 'top of the line, luxury model' Honda! Any thoughts, ideas, empathy, would be appreciated. Thanks.
I drove an 03 Buick Century recently (company fleet) and the brakes were so smooth! My Accord's breaks should not have this annoying problem. Every thing else about my accord is perfect - but the brakes get on my nerves. Any tips?
My wife did lots of driving yesterday, no noise. Hope this information helps.
Is it a blown fuse or something else? How can I fix this?
Post 8945 suggests adjusting the calipers, in case they're not fully releasing when you let off the brakes. Subsequent posts, however, expressed some skepticism about that solution.
I got rid of my 03 Accord due to the recurring brake problems, but I didn't try the aftermarket solution or caliper adjustment mentioned here. I simply lost confidence in the brake system and felt it would be better to move on.
You may find that one of the solutions mentioned here solves your problem though.
If this is being handled as a warranty issue, until the car is out of warranty I'd keep going back to Honda again and again. Out of warranty, I'd have a trusted independent shop put on aftermarket rotors and pads with a 12-month/12,000-mile warranty and see what develops.
The car stalls while accelerating, steady speed and deceleration. I thought the recall of the ignition switch may have something to do with it, I have not had that done yet. Car is in a body shop at the moment. After I get it back, I will get the switch replaced before I start hunting other possible causes. Your idea of going to discount parts for trouble codes is a good suggestion. Thanks.
I really wish I could get this feature disabled - I live in the Pacific Northwest, where it's rainy lots of the time. I assume the only advantage to this feature is being able to vent the car before you get in it?
Your car can learn to read up to three remote transmitters and it's easy to program (although entering the car into program mode erases all learned codes and you have to learn all your transmitters, new and old, at the same time).
I search the Honda forum here, over 2 millions according to the quiry, but didn't find anything resemble my problem. So I figure I post the question here and see if anyone can offer useful insights.
Thanks in advance for the help...