My 89LXi gave 28MPG last fall. I measured MPG again last week without warming up the car. Outside temp was in the low 40's. MPG was ~25. I was in shock. Will measure again when temp is much warmer.
I bought a 2005 EX Sedan in January. When washing the car with a car wash detergent, the brake dust comes off easily on the front of the wheel rims. However, the rim area behind the spokes is a different matter. I would find it hard to believe that only the front of the rim is clearcoated while the remainder isn't, but another forum said that's often the case. Does anyone know if the factory 16" alloy rims are completely clearcoated or not? Are they even painted?
Anyone have any luck in cleaning and keeping that area clean other than going to ceramic pads?
Your MPG is normal that is same to my V6 02 with only 200 HP. You get a V6 with 240 HP you have to sacrifice for gas consumption. You may want to buy an Accord Hybrid (like myself) to get 29 - 37 MPG.
The question is probably more of the rim's backside being buffed/polished like the outer face or not.
Of the factory and aftermarket rims I've seen, all have rough, unfinished backside surfaces that trap brake dust and dirt.
One solution I can think of is to have the backside finished like the face then waxed (requires demounting tires, etc.). The smooth surface would make it easier to remove the brake dust.
Brake dust shields are effective but they also impede heat dissipation, critical for overall brake performance and safety, not to mention promoting rotor warp.
First timer so please bear with me. If doing something wrong, let me know. Thanks. Have a 98 honda accord. All of a sudden, automatic door locks don't work. Checked respective fuse and it looks ok. Neither indoor power lock button works. Keys in door lock also do not operate the automatic locks but do open the door. To add to the confusion, driver's controls can operate the driver's side power windows but not the passenger side windows. Yet, the individual passenger side window controls do work. Don't believe it can be a fuse but not sure. Any suggestions for troubleshooting further?
I am an owner of Accord 2000, LX model sedan. I have driven this for 76K now. The case started showing the “Engine Check” light. I went to dealer to show this problem. They gave me an estimate of $1500 +labor charge to fix all the problems. Dealership told me to replace the PCM and third pressure clutch switch. I wanted to know that what this PCM means? Can I get this repaired instead of replacing it? Please advice.
Sorry, but I won't be able to speak to your technical problem. Did you get a diagnosis/estimate at another shop without telling them about the original diagnosis?
Thanks. I was already planning on using clay followed by a paint polisher and sealant to treat the area. What's already accumulated may require a pH neutral wheel cleaner as well ... hopefully not.
Definitely won't use any sort of brake dust shield. Thanks.
It sounds like the wire that sends power to the drivers door has come loose or broken. Open the door and look near the hinges for where the wires pass through to see if you can see any damage to the wire harness.
We have a 99 Accord with 81K miles. The CEL came on about 6 months ago. Sometimes it goes out by itself for awhile.
I found a web site with lots of discussion about this topic, and it seened the most common problem was in the evaporative control (the same device that causes a vacuum, in the fuel tank).
Since I don't sense any vacuum in the fuel tank when I buy gas, I figured that was the problem.
By the way, the car still passed the emissions test.
I just put some black tape over the CEL light.
If you are going to have the problem fixed, I suggest you go to a place you REALLY, REALLY trust! The web site I found had many storied of people spending hundreds of dollars and the problem still not being fixed.
I believe the power window problem you described was discussed long time ago here. The suggestion is to put the wiper switch to intermittent position then start the car. Search this thread for this discussion.
I have an 02 Coupe with 36K miles - dealer said my rear pads were low and sure enough, 2 weeks later started hearing the indicator metal on metal noise. Thing is, I hear the noise even when not braking (when going 70 on the highway).
1) Is it normal to have to replace the rear pads this soon?
2) Is it possible that somehow the pads are constantly in contact with the rotors and this is why i get the noise all the time? (I called the dealer and they said thats how the indicators work, you get the noise whether you are braking or not)
The front pads still have 4-5mm and I will be bringing my car in tomorrow morning to change the rear pads. It would be good to know if this is normal wear or if something may have been wrong.
(1) Ever since my car was new ('04 Ex-V6 6 spd. with ~19k miles) I've been unhappy with the brakes - I've gotten a low frequency rumble from the rear of the car, they're too grabby, and the rears feel like they're too tight. Dealer checked this and said they're as they should be.
I've also been getting a slight grinding vibration and low-level highspeed shudder in the wheel when first getting on the highway while car is cold. Its most noticeable whenever I accelerate onto the highway and generally, while the car is still cold, at ~60-65 mph in 5th or 6th gear.
I had the wheels balanced at around 10k miles and it definitely helped but did not eliminate the problem. I have NOT had an alignment done as car otherwise tracks straight (well, OK, sometimes it pulls a little to the left, but not consistently, so I don't know if its the car or the roads on my commute). I've also noticed some rotor vibration, particularly after 2-3 stops in short succession, that seems to be more in the seat than the wheel, though I feel it in both places (probably the rear?). Both problems are steady, but relatively faint and the grinding vibration lessens (though does NOT disappear) once the car is fully warmed up.
Assuming its not just brake rotors that need to be cut or an alignment issue, any other ideas? Could it be wheel bearings? A motor-mount or a bad half-shaft? How can I check for same without dismantling or being told "tech. cannot duplicate problem" by dealer?
(2) When accelerating hard (at or near full throttle), throttle does not appear to increase engine rpm in a linear fashion. Instead, it either bogs down or increases rpm as a series of evenly spaced steps (kind of like the fade function in the chime on my battery powered fireplace mantle clock). Is this just a function of the electronic throttle or something else I should be more concerned about?
Car is going to dealer this coming Thursday A.M. so quick responses would be greatly appreciated!
I recently had an accident with my 2004 Honda accord. The car did not decelerate when the brakes were applied. Even at 10 mph it was a bit scarey. Has anyone had a similar problem? Is there a way of finding out what happened? Do the car computers register any of those problems?
The other day I had to pick up some medicine from the drive thru drug store. I turned off the engine so I could hand the pharamacist my CVS card attached to the keychain. Without the key in the ignition, my 4 year old son was able to operate the power windows in the rear of my 99 Accord LX. Has anyone ever seen this happen - I find it odd that the windows would work without the car turned on/key in ignition. Thanks
Even my '90 allows you to operate the windows for a few minutes after removing the ignition key. Opening one of the doors will discontinue this mode before it would normally time out. Basically this is to allow people to roll up their windows if they have forgotten to. This is normal operation. In fact, many makes/models allow for this now. Surprised you haven't run into it yet.
Many thanks for the information. I usually drive the car by myself so whenever I take the keys out of the ignition it's because I'm exiting the vehicle which is probably why I've never seen it before.
My 2003 accord lx wiper drivers side one is hitting the A pillar when it is working. Is this normal? Is there an adjustment that I can make? Or do I need to take it to the dealer? It is still under warranty 34k miles. Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to fix it? It is annoying when you are driving fast on the highway and raining hard and hear this hitting.
Windshield wiper arms are mounted on a splined shaft. If it's hitting on one side, or not going far enough, you lift up the arm, shift it a few splines, and try again. I haven't looked at my owner's manual to see what's required to release them (some are locked on, some are just a push fit) but it's really easy to do.
Hello, I just finished reading through 988 posts because I haven't been on this site for a while. My 97 Accord is about to turn 90,000 miles so I need to get the timing belt done. What is a decent price for this with the water pump, etc? I have three dealers in my area but one is really close by. Thanks for any info.
QUESTION: Isn't that engine in need of a timing belt replacement? It seems that you have an honest dealer. He suggested that you needed a muffler, and the muffler did fall off the vehicle. I would have the dealer perform the necessary repair work on the vehicle. They have the OE parts for the vehicle. I do not like to use aftermarket parts on my vehicles. I have our Honda dealer perform all the service work on our two Hondas. Since both vehicles are covered by a Honda extended warranty, I like to keep all our service records in one place. In addition, our dealer in N.J. gives outstanding service!
My 2001, manual transmission, w/60K miles cuts off when I am driving. It doesn't stall, just all the indicator lights turn on. It has happened numerous times and everytime I am slowing down for a stop light, etc. My dealer doesn't know what is causing this. It appears just fine except that the lights come on in the dash. Any ideas???
No way I would pay the dealer to do any exhaust work, especially on a '91. Go to a reputable shop for the exhaust. I was quoted by a dealer one time for exhaust work on my Accord over $400 which I got done for $115. I can't help you on the other items they quoted. Anybody have an idea on the timing belt replacement cost?
My 2001 is doing the same thing. I posted my message this morning. Did you ever find anything that worked? Mine always does this when I'm slowing down. After I come to a stop it starts up again. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with the car... but there is!!!
Find a local mechanic shop for your exhaust work. If you want OE parts, ask the local shop if they take your parts and install them. If yes, I would go on line and buy the parts. You get cheaper price at wholesale (on-line) store.
For the Camshaft seal, if your 91 hasn't had its timing belt replaced, now it's the time. The timing belt includes replacing the seals, betls, and water pump. The job is expensive ($600 or more), but I would let the dealer do this one.
Oil pan gasket, it doesn't leak much oil, I would postpone it if budget is an issue.
The last time I had my 89LXi maintenance service at the dealer when the car had 68K miles. Since then, all I do for maintenance is replace the spark plugs, wires, PCV valve, air filter, engine oil, tranny fluid (fill & drain) and radiator coolant at recommend intervals. This is a very much DIY job. Dist. cap, rotor, and fuel filter are still on the car since last service. Will get to them this spring/summer when the weather is warmer. The car has 205K miles and has no problems starting and running. Knock on wood.
In many cities it's not uncommon to see unfranchised auto repair shops that specialize in Honda/Acura. I have one near me with a stellar reputation that charges far less than any area Honda Dealer.
I'd cross shop prices on a muffler first, then give a recommended Honda/Acura repair shop a try - perhaps they can be competitive on the muffler repair as well as the rest.
This sounds similar to what happened to me and my friend, even though we had different repair done. My car, an auto, had the ignitor replaced, and my friend's car, a stick, had some thing done to the fuel pump/line.
Even though my car is a '92, I looked back and found a recall on the ignitor. Honda had extended the warranty on that to 7 years, but this happened way past that. I would check if there is a recall on your model.
Those estimates are off, don't let the dealer steal your money for that.
I have a '90 Accord that I just had the exhaust redone for...I got a whole Bosal cat-back exhaust installed for $300 (and this is in the NYC area). Just call around for local mechanics and check it out. Bosal is the most popular OEM replacement exhaust maker here if I'm not mistaken. Get the muffler install by a local mechanic and ask for the warranty card. Fill it out, send it in, and you have a lifetime replacement warranty on the muffler. Walker also has a lifetime replacement on their mufflers and you can get them at Midas type places. Unfortunately, the Accord factory exhaust system is pretty notorious for rotting out quickly. This is one area where I would attempt an aftermarket improvement;) Especially where I live, the winter salt and ocean air don't help matters.
Just looking online, the Bosal muffler should be around $100. So unless you are ok with spending $150 to simply install a muffler....avoid the dealer like the plague. Should not be more than about a $60 job I would think at best. Here's the link I found for the muffler. http://63.89.49.212/parts/online_catalog/quote.jsp?year=1990&prod- uct=H5000-50507&application=000613144&usemake=&returnurl
As for the timing belt, I was quoted as much as $800 by the dealer for a timing belt/water pump service. This is also baloney. My mechanic did it for $350 plus tax. He ended up also having to replace a very worn harmonic balancer. Save yourself trouble later and have the water pump replaced when you do the timing belt. I know there are a few lurking on this board that refuse to change it just because, but as far as I'm concerned it's worth the extra $ to do it now.
I have had a steering column rattle in my '04 V6 sedan since about 2K miles only -- dealer finally traced it to faulty spring in horn plate assembly, and after twisting their arm, they replaced the assembly, which initially worked, only to have the rattle return one month later. Anybody else have this, especially any solutions out there?
I also have window seal squeaks, both front driver and passenger doors, which seem to be less noisy during rain (? lubrication helps or perhaps the rain "washes" the noise out?) I have had my "run channels" replaced, which worked for about one week! I have heard others on the forum have had their window seals "lubricated", but many say this only works for one month or so!? What gives? Any updates, ideas, solutions on this? Dealer is out of ideas.
I am extremely annoyed--I've had this wonderful car for 7.5 months, and have had a "quiet", rattle free ride for only about 4 weeks total! What does it matter how smooth the V6 is, or how cool the navi is, if you're constantly distracted and annoyed with rattles and squeaks?
QUESTION: ----Did you get a muffler designed for your vehicle or an aftermarket generic replacement muffler? Backpressure is very important to the operation of an engine.
I am driving a Honda Accord 2003 LX. I think I have most of the rattling/squeaking noise people mentioned in this message board. They are anoying and I don't know what to do. Is there anybody in Houston have the dealership fixed these problems? Thanks.
I have an '05 Accord and even if the car is turned off, it is possible to roll up/down the windows as long as none of the doors have been opened. Not sure if this would follow suit with your car.
Just curious what's the brake life on your cars. Mine has 53k on my 2003 EX and dealer wants to replace brakes all around. Front 1 - 1.5 mm Rear 1 mm When is the right time to replace? I thought the rear brakes last much longer.
I'm quite sure my anemic 2.2 in my high mileage Accord can't tell the difference in mufflers! If I had a VTEC or high performance engine I might be concerned, but for now I'll take the $300 in my pocket instead of spending it on an overpriced muffler with the optimum backpressure. I'm not racing in the Daytona 500 anytime soon.
With the advent of catalytic converters on cars, the muffler has much less effect on the overall back pressure in the exhaust system than it used to. The catalytic converters produce by far the largest percentage, so I would not be reluctant to put an aftermarket muffler on. Especially on a 14 year old car, where the owner probably cannot afford or does not want to pay for high cost OEM parts and dealer labor.
Did Honda actually use old style non stainless exhaust systems in 1991? Have they finally switched to stainless across their entire product line or are they still using carbon steel exhausts on some models?
By 1991 many, if not most, cars had stainless systems that, in my personal experience last for the life of the car, even in a cold winter salt laden roads climate, which is the most severe conditions for exhaust systems.
The exhaust on my 97 Accord SE was not stainless steel. I have had the entire system past the converter replaced. I was very disappointed in how soon I had to replace the muffler. I do live in lovely Upstate NY though.
Wow, hard to believe Honda continued carbon steel exhausts that long. My 1990 Taurus had entirely stainless and never touched the exhaust for the ten years I had it, this in salt ravaged Wisconsin.
I haven't replaced an exhaust system since about 1988 on a POS 1983 Chevy Celebrity.
I just replaced my rear pads (02 EXv6 Coupe, see post #9715) at 36k - the dealer told me that the OEM pads are thinner in the back than the front because of the 60/40 load, I guess to get all 4 to wear out at the same time. My fronts still have 5-10k left on them, however.
I know you can't tie brake wear to a set mileage, it depends on your driving habits. I drive a little harder than average, and almost all city driving (chicago), so maybe 36k is normal for me. Anyone else, what are your driving conditions and when your pads wore out, just to get an idea of what should be expected?
BTW, if they are at 1mm, it is definitely time to replace them.
Last time my 03LXV6 was serviced, the advisor told me the force is 50/50 front/rear for 4-wheel disc. But that did not explain why front brake has 75% left and rear brake has 50% left.
Got a free pass recently from GM to test drive, then saw this at cars.com:
"Cadillac CTS and SRX vehicles from the 2004 model year have also been recalled because the driver's airbag and roof-rail airbag can deploy when the ignition is turned on. GM will replace the airbag sensing and diagnostic module on 87,000 of the vehicles."
What is that? You turn on the ignition, zzzz---, kapoon! Greetings!
A perfect example of another well tested product being offered to the buying public. Here is an important question: ----How many accidents on the road are not driver related at all, but rather, are the result of a mechanical / electrical malfunction, that caused the accident?------ You hear of computer controlled vehicles that accelerate on their own without warning. I always make it a point to shift the transmission into neutral, when people are crossing in front of my vehicle. Should the computer decide to raise the engine idle, the vehicle will not move forward. With all the new technology, I am surprised that we do not have more accidents that are related to a technology malfunction.
Why shift into neutral just when there are people crossing? Why not just turn your ignition key to the OFF position whenever you stop at an intersection? That way, with your engine off, your vehicle would surely not move forward.
Please specify how often "You hear of computer controlled vehicles that accelerate on their own without warning."
Here's what happened: Last night, I got home and "as usual" turned off the car, left the lights on, unlocked the garage door, got back in the car and tried to restart to pull in the garage. I do this about three times a week (with the lights on). Last night, when I tried to restart it, the lights went off, the car tried once to "turn over" then did this crazy clicking sound in which all the lights in the dash flashed (like a pulse). I removed the key, turned everything off (lights, AC, radio) and tried again. Now, there was more turning over, but no starting. This morning, same thing--it just won't "catch." I took the connectors off the battery for a few minutes thinking this would reset the computer, but it didn't seem to help.
IMPORTANT QUESTION: --- Would YOU want to be the person, who injured someone with your vehicle, because the computer sent an erroneous signal to raise the engine idle? As for your comment; ---"Why not just turn your ignition key to the OFF position whenever you stop at an intersection", ---I find that comment to be illogical. There is a BIG difference between shifting the trans to neutral, and turning off the engine. It only takes ONE defective vehicle to kill someone!
You need a minimum of 9 volts for the computer, while cranking the engine, in order to fire the ignition system. A quick guess would be that, at this point in time, you might need a battery. Our 2003 4 cylinder Accord is 24 months old with 44,000+ miles, and we had to replace the battery. Take the vehicle back to the dealer or a good electrical automotive shop, and have the battery, starting system and the charging system tested. If you need a battery, purchase the best battery available for your vehicle. As vehicles get older, resistance builds up in the electrical circuits, and a higher capacity battery will be helpful. Purchase a name brand battery!
I am original owner of 1993 Accord LX, 4 cylinder, AT, air, sedan.
Car vibrates when in Drive and foot on brake, as brake released and RPMs go up and car starts to move, vibration goes away. When A/C and Rear Defroster on and steering wheel angled and car in Drive with foot on brake (such as traffic stops) vibration is extreme.
I take care of my Honda; 3,000 oil changes, timing belt/water pump every 90,000; valve adjustments and AT fluid change every 30,000. Car uses no oil and has all power as when new.
Only problems to date were 1-set of rotors, exhaust system last winter, A/C sensor, A/C control knobs (many), belts, hoses, plugs.
My car has all major service at Honda dealer except oil and plug changes and air filter, done by me. I use Honda parts.
My car has 270,060 miles, drives great.
Problem started 2 years ago, dealer cleaned injectors (did not help), dealer found vacuum leak (did not help), dealer rebored EGR valves (mileage went up 1.5 miles per gallon just like when new (31 highway) but vibration remained).
Dealer said may be the rear engine mount that is gel in nature and part and labor are over $470 and may not fix problem; said all older Accords vibrate.
It vibrates a lot. I like the dealer but they seem much better at properly replacing required maintenance parts then finding and solving unique problems.
It is time for another set of timing belt/water pump changes and valve adjustments.
I don't know what to do about the vibration, dealer reluctant to change rear engine mount.
Non-Honda rear mounts cost much less; will they be adequate? can this be done safely at a non-Honda shop?
The car drives great, drive 90 miles roundtrip to work daily; would like to go to 350,000 miles.
Need your best advice. Also, do I keep doing the valve adjustments or should I start skipping them? Dealer says it is time to "just run the car", you maintain it better than any customer we have.
The excessive vibration can really shake your head and I'm sure it isn't good for the old car either.
This is my first post.
You can also email answers to me to jeffrey041573@hotmail.com
I would really appreciate some good answers from you Honda experts. Thank you.
Comments
I bought a 2005 EX Sedan in January. When washing the car with a car wash detergent, the brake dust comes off easily on the front of the wheel rims. However, the rim area behind the spokes is a different matter. I would find it hard to believe that only the front of the rim is clearcoated while the remainder isn't, but another forum said that's often the case. Does anyone know if the factory 16" alloy rims are completely clearcoated or not? Are they even painted?
Anyone have any luck in cleaning and keeping that area clean other than going to ceramic pads?
Of the factory and aftermarket rims I've seen, all have rough, unfinished backside surfaces that trap brake dust and dirt.
One solution I can think of is to have the backside finished like the face then waxed (requires demounting tires, etc.). The smooth surface would make it easier to remove the brake dust.
Brake dust shields are effective but they also impede heat dissipation, critical for overall brake performance and safety, not to mention promoting rotor warp.
Have a 98 honda accord. All of a sudden, automatic door locks don't work. Checked respective fuse and it looks ok. Neither indoor power lock button works. Keys in door lock also do not operate the automatic locks but do open the door.
To add to the confusion, driver's controls can operate the driver's side power windows but not the passenger side windows. Yet, the individual passenger side window controls do work.
Don't believe it can be a fuse but not sure. Any suggestions for troubleshooting further?
I am an owner of Accord 2000, LX model sedan. I have driven this for 76K now. The case started showing the “Engine Check” light. I went to dealer to show this problem. They gave me an estimate of $1500 +labor charge to fix all the problems. Dealership told me to replace the PCM and third pressure clutch switch. I wanted to know that what this PCM means? Can I get this repaired instead of replacing it? Please advice.
Thanks
Sorry, but I won't be able to speak to your technical problem. Did you get a diagnosis/estimate at another shop without telling them about the original diagnosis?
Definitely won't use any sort of brake dust shield. Thanks.
I found a web site with lots of discussion about this topic, and it seened the most common problem was in the evaporative control (the same device that causes a vacuum, in the fuel tank).
Since I don't sense any vacuum in the fuel tank when I buy gas, I figured that was the problem.
By the way, the car still passed the emissions test.
I just put some black tape over the CEL light.
If you are going to have the problem fixed, I suggest you go to a place you REALLY, REALLY trust! The web site I found had many storied of people spending hundreds of dollars and the problem still not being fixed.
Search this thread for this discussion.
1) Is it normal to have to replace the rear pads this soon?
2) Is it possible that somehow the pads are constantly in contact with the rotors and this is why i get the noise all the time? (I called the dealer and they said thats how the indicators work, you get the noise whether you are braking or not)
The front pads still have 4-5mm and I will be bringing my car in tomorrow morning to change the rear pads. It would be good to know if this is normal wear or if something may have been wrong.
Thanks.
(1) Ever since my car was new ('04 Ex-V6 6 spd. with ~19k miles) I've been unhappy with the brakes - I've gotten a low frequency rumble from the rear of the car, they're too grabby, and the rears feel like they're too tight. Dealer checked this and said they're as they should be.
I've also been getting a slight grinding vibration and low-level highspeed shudder in the wheel when first getting on the highway while car is cold. Its most noticeable whenever I accelerate onto the highway and generally, while the car is still cold, at ~60-65 mph in 5th or 6th gear.
I had the wheels balanced at around 10k miles and it definitely helped but did not eliminate the problem. I have NOT had an alignment done as car otherwise tracks straight (well, OK, sometimes it pulls a little to the left, but not consistently, so I don't know if its the car or the roads on my commute). I've also noticed some rotor vibration, particularly after 2-3 stops in short succession, that seems to be more in the seat than the wheel, though I feel it in both places (probably the rear?). Both problems are steady, but relatively faint and the grinding vibration lessens (though does NOT disappear) once the car is fully warmed up.
Assuming its not just brake rotors that need to be cut or an alignment issue, any other ideas? Could it be wheel bearings? A motor-mount or a bad half-shaft? How can I check for same without dismantling or being told "tech. cannot duplicate problem" by dealer?
(2) When accelerating hard (at or near full throttle), throttle does not appear to increase engine rpm in a linear fashion. Instead, it either bogs down or increases rpm as a series of evenly spaced steps (kind of like the fade function in the chime on my battery powered fireplace mantle clock). Is this just a function of the electronic throttle or something else I should be more concerned about?
Car is going to dealer this coming Thursday A.M. so quick responses would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
-FS
In fact, many makes/models allow for this now. Surprised you haven't run into it yet.
Windshield wiper arms are mounted on a splined shaft. If it's hitting on one side, or not going far enough, you lift up the arm, shift it a few splines, and try again. I haven't looked at my owner's manual to see what's required to release them (some are locked on, some are just a push fit) but it's really easy to do.
I could use some advise here...
Make/Model: Honda/Accord 1991
Mil: 129K miles
Delaer suggested to do the following when I went for oil change.
1) Replace Oil Pan Gasket $184.37
2) Replace Camshaft Seal $148.25
3) Muffler $247.43
----------
Total 572.00 approximately
He further suggested to go for 130 K mile service.
Co-incidentally on the way to home muffler fell off ...I think it is rusted. I sure need to relace muffler.
Is dealership good place or can I find local mechanic do do this muffler replacement ?
Help appreciated.
Peoria IL
If you want OE parts, ask the local shop if they take your parts and install them. If yes, I would go on line and buy the parts. You get cheaper price at wholesale (on-line) store.
For the Camshaft seal, if your 91 hasn't had its timing belt replaced, now it's the time. The timing belt includes replacing the seals, betls, and water pump. The job is expensive ($600 or more), but I would let the dealer do this one.
Oil pan gasket, it doesn't leak much oil, I would postpone it if budget is an issue.
The last time I had my 89LXi maintenance service at the dealer when the car had 68K miles. Since then, all I do for maintenance is replace the spark plugs, wires, PCV valve, air filter, engine oil, tranny fluid (fill & drain) and radiator coolant at recommend intervals. This is a very much DIY job.
Dist. cap, rotor, and fuel filter are still on the car since last service. Will get to them this spring/summer when the weather is warmer.
The car has 205K miles and has no problems starting and running. Knock on wood.
Good luck.
I'd cross shop prices on a muffler first, then give a recommended Honda/Acura repair shop a try - perhaps they can be competitive on the muffler repair as well as the rest.
Even though my car is a '92, I looked back and found a recall on the ignitor. Honda had extended the warranty on that to 7 years, but this happened way past that. I would check if there is a recall on your model.
Good lucky.
I have a '90 Accord that I just had the exhaust redone for...I got a whole Bosal cat-back exhaust installed for $300 (and this is in the NYC area). Just call around for local mechanics and check it out. Bosal is the most popular OEM replacement exhaust maker here if I'm not mistaken. Get the muffler install by a local mechanic and ask for the warranty card. Fill it out, send it in, and you have a lifetime replacement warranty on the muffler. Walker also has a lifetime replacement on their mufflers and you can get them at Midas type places. Unfortunately, the Accord factory exhaust system is pretty notorious for rotting out quickly. This is one area where I would attempt an aftermarket improvement;) Especially where I live, the winter salt and ocean air don't help matters.
Just looking online, the Bosal muffler should be around $100. So unless you are ok with spending $150 to simply install a muffler....avoid the dealer like the plague. Should not be more than about a $60 job I would think at best.
Here's the link I found for the muffler.
http://63.89.49.212/parts/online_catalog/quote.jsp?year=1990&prod- uct=H5000-50507&application=000613144&usemake=&returnurl
As for the timing belt, I was quoted as much as $800 by the dealer for a timing belt/water pump service. This is also baloney. My mechanic did it for $350 plus tax. He ended up also having to replace a very worn harmonic balancer. Save yourself trouble later and have the water pump replaced when you do the timing belt. I know there are a few lurking on this board that refuse to change it just because, but as far as I'm concerned it's worth the extra $ to do it now.
Good luck!
I also have window seal squeaks, both front driver and passenger doors, which seem to be less noisy during rain (? lubrication helps or perhaps the rain "washes" the noise out?) I have had my "run channels" replaced, which worked for about one week! I have heard others on the forum have had their window seals "lubricated", but many say this only works for one month or so!? What gives? Any updates, ideas, solutions on this? Dealer is out of ideas.
I am extremely annoyed--I've had this wonderful car for 7.5 months, and have had a "quiet", rattle free ride for only about 4 weeks total! What does it matter how smooth the V6 is, or how cool the navi is, if you're constantly distracted and annoyed with rattles and squeaks?
Mine has 53k on my 2003 EX and dealer wants to replace brakes all around.
Front 1 - 1.5 mm
Rear 1 mm
When is the right time to replace? I thought the rear brakes last much longer.
Did Honda actually use old style non stainless exhaust systems in 1991? Have they finally switched to stainless across their entire product line or are they still using carbon steel exhausts on some models?
By 1991 many, if not most, cars had stainless systems that, in my personal experience last for the life of the car, even in a cold winter salt laden roads climate, which is the most severe conditions for exhaust systems.
I haven't replaced an exhaust system since about 1988 on a POS 1983 Chevy Celebrity.
I know you can't tie brake wear to a set mileage, it depends on your driving habits. I drive a little harder than average, and almost all city driving (chicago), so maybe 36k is normal for me. Anyone else, what are your driving conditions and when your pads wore out, just to get an idea of what should be expected?
BTW, if they are at 1mm, it is definitely time to replace them.
"Cadillac CTS and SRX vehicles from the 2004 model year have also been recalled because the driver's airbag and roof-rail airbag can deploy when the ignition is turned on. GM will replace the airbag sensing and diagnostic module on 87,000 of the vehicles."
What is that? You turn on the ignition, zzzz---, kapoon! Greetings!
Why shift into neutral just when there are people crossing? Why not just turn your ignition key to the OFF position whenever you stop at an intersection? That way, with your engine off, your vehicle would surely not move forward.
Please specify how often "You hear of computer controlled vehicles that accelerate on their own without warning."
Does anyone have any idea what is going on?
Car vibrates when in Drive and foot on brake, as
brake released and RPMs go up and car starts to
move, vibration goes away. When A/C and Rear Defroster on and steering wheel angled and car in
Drive with foot on brake (such as traffic stops) vibration is extreme.
I take care of my Honda; 3,000 oil changes, timing
belt/water pump every 90,000; valve adjustments
and AT fluid change every 30,000. Car uses no oil and has all power as when new.
Only problems to date were 1-set of rotors, exhaust system last winter, A/C sensor,
A/C control knobs (many), belts, hoses, plugs.
My car has all major service at Honda dealer
except oil and plug changes and air filter, done by me. I use Honda parts.
My car has 270,060 miles, drives great.
Problem started 2 years ago, dealer cleaned injectors (did not help), dealer found vacuum leak (did not help), dealer rebored EGR valves (mileage went up 1.5 miles per gallon just like
when new (31 highway) but vibration remained).
Dealer said may be the rear engine mount that
is gel in nature and part and labor are over $470 and may not fix problem; said all older Accords
vibrate.
It vibrates a lot. I like the dealer but they
seem much better at properly replacing required
maintenance parts then finding and solving unique problems.
It is time for another set of timing belt/water pump changes and valve adjustments.
I don't know what to do about the vibration, dealer reluctant to change rear engine mount.
Non-Honda rear mounts cost much less; will they
be adequate? can this be done safely at a non-Honda shop?
The car drives great, drive 90 miles roundtrip to work daily; would like to go to 350,000 miles.
Need your best advice. Also, do I keep doing the valve adjustments or should I start skipping them? Dealer says it is time to "just run the car", you maintain it better than any customer
we have.
The excessive vibration can really shake your head and I'm sure it isn't good for the old car either.
This is my first post.
You can also email answers to me to
jeffrey041573@hotmail.com
I would really appreciate some good answers from
you Honda experts. Thank you.