Check the condition of the battery cables at both ends. The connections should be clean and tight. (A bad ground will cause this problem). Have the battery load tested, and also have the alternator tested. Remove the ignition key from the key ring, and with only the ignition key in the ignition switch, start the engine, and take the vehicle for a ride. See if the situation happens again. The weight of TOO many keys on the ring could cause wear in the ignition switch. With the engine at idle, and the transmission in park, gently move the ignition key from side to side. If the engine "cuts out", you have found your problem. I hope this helps. Keep us posted on this subject. ----- Greg.
To follow up on Greg's post... We recently bought a used (but official/Honda 'Certified') 2003 Accord Coupe V6. In the 3 months since we've had it, I had never experienced the problem (car's engine/power just plain QUITS---dash goes totally black, have to pull over; completely random occurence), but it happened TWICE to my wife.
We brought it into the dealership, and it took them a couple days, but they found the source/root of the problem: They found that the cable/wiring connecting to the fuse box was loose. It would get juice, but if it moved slightly one way or another, the connection was lost, causing the problem as described.
So, Greg's post was definitely valuable and along the same lines, and we would have had the dealer check/try all those things as well, but fortunately they found the problem and have corrected it. Dang those loose connections! Those will screw up an electrical system every time...
Thanks. My son just had a new battery put not too long ago but will check that out. Bad part is he has his car at college and I can't get to it right now to check it out. Hopefully he may come home Easter weekend but the garage we go to will be closed when he gets home. The car only has around 76,000 miles.
Radial tires are designed that way. They just "look underinflated". When inflated to the pressure indicated on your doorpost label they should exhibit a rounded-looking sidewall. Otherwise the sidewalls will not flex enough to provide proper handling, ride control, etc.
That maximum 44 psi label molded into your tire's sidewall is, in effect, a "burst" pressure beyond which operation of the tire may be unsafe.
A couple of pounds beyond the recommened pressures may provide slightly quicker handling response... at the expense of a slightly harsher ride. It will also tend to wear the center of the tire's tread prematurely.
I think you might have found your problem. If the vehicle did not have the problem before the new battery was installed, and it has the problem now, chances are the battery or the cables are at fault. With the engine running and the vehilce in Park, gently shake the battery cables. If the engine stalls, you have found your problem. Make sure that the battery is clamped down properly. There is also a possibility that you might have an internal problem with the battery that only shows up when driving over a rough roads. If you find the battery loose in the holder, shake it gently and see if the engine dies. WEAR SPLASH PROOF SAFETY GOGGLES WHILE WORKING UNDER THE HOOD. BATTERY ACID IS VERY DANGEROUS! -----Greg
Add to Gregory's post about cables, loosen the connectors, rub the posts and insides with sandpaper or steel wool, and reconnect. The cables also make have the internal wires corroded without showing it through the plastic covering. Move cables all along their length to check--but look at the ends of the plastic covering for corrosion oozing out.
Remember to remove the negative (-) battery cable first to clean. Then remove the postive cable. Otherwise a wrench can touch the metal of the car which is still connect to the negative and you will have an electric ark not unlike a welding rod. Be sure to check the negative connection at the engine and the postivie connection.
Is anybody else having issues with the comfort of their leather seats? I don't know if it's because I'm tall (6'1"), but I can't find a good position in my 2003 Accord EX. It seems the seat is curved inward too much, and the bottom of the seat does not offer enough support. I rode in a 2003 LX with cloth seats and did not have this problem. I also drove a new Altima not long ago and it was fine too.
Is there anything I can do? I am the only one who feels this way?
I have an 04 Honda EX V6 with gray leather. I had the same problem, same location. I've had it for about 15 months and the car has about 17,000 miles so it's still is under the bumper-to-bumper warranty. The service manager at the dealer took one look and said, "No problem". They ordered a new seat cover and installed it all for the bubble ($0). The new leather matches perfectly. Hopefully, this new leather is a bit more durable than the original. I think the leather in the Accord is not of the best quality. My brother has an 04 Acura TL and the leather is much softer and comfortable. So far he has not had any problems with it.
Don't hesitate to bring it back to your dealer and insist they replace it. There is no reason the leather in a car a couple of years old should crack and split so soon. Good luck!
I've got a rattle in my 04 Accord EX that goes away when its cold (forty degrees or less). I've noticed that now that the "warmer" weather is starting to return, the rattle has come back. I can't be sure where it's located but it seems to be behind me. It might be around the rear edge of the moonroof or further back around the rear windshield. I'll have to get my wife to drive while I climb around the back seat anl listen. Hope this helps.
I have a 1993 honda LX. Two days back I began smelling gasoline when I would get into the car. The smell seems to be getting stronger each day. I doesn't appear to be a gas leak although gas mileage has decreased a bit, not too much though. Could it be simple a bad fuel filter or something else?
I believe the tires must pressure test to over 100 pounds of pressure for burst test. The sidewall number is a ? I don't understand number. Ask over in Tires, Tires, Tires.
I run my tires 3-4 pounds above the recommended and have NEVER had one wear in the center. I rotate regularly (usually a part of the purchase package with lifetime balancing).
I own a 2002 EX V6 coupe, i purchased the car brand new. when I accelerate i hear a roaring noise in my car so loud it drowns out everything. it has 50,000 miles so the warranty is up. but the noise drives me crazy. its not in the tranny it does change on speed though. starting around 30mph it roars loader as i go faster and reduces when i slow down. i feel a slight vibration at 50mph but its not shaking the car. some one help me please
If the engine is fuel injected look at the Pressure Regulator. If the engine has a Carb.,you could have a flooding issue. Make sure all fuel lines a tight. Check all the vacuum lines. If the engine has a charcoal canister, (early fuel evaporation system),check the operation. Check the condition of the gas tank cap. Check the condition of the engine's air filter and all hoses / ducts.
Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence Summary: WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Is anybody else having issues with the comfort of their leather seats? I don't know if it's because I'm tall (6'1"), but I can't find a good position in my 2003 Accord EX. It seems the seat is curved inward too much, and the bottom of the seat does not offer enough support. I rode in a 2003 LX with cloth seats and did not have this problem. I also drove a new Altima not long ago and it was fine too.
YMMV. I'm 6'2 and found the Accord seats to be the most comfortable of any mid-sized car.
You folks are hilarious on tire pressures. I raced several FWD cars with 40-50 psi for an entire season with no problem. Underinflation is a far more serious problem. You'll know when you have too much pressure because you'll shake the fillings out of your teeth. Most folks are amazed that increasing tire pressure to the mid-30's cold will lighten the steering; greatly improve the precision of their steering; stop in shorter distances; and behave better in rain.
I have a 2005 honda accord coupe. Has anyone else noticed a hi-freq sound coming out of the amp? I have tested other accords and I find there's the same problem. Often, a temporary workaround is to play with the base and treble levels... it ramdomly goes on and off.
Wondering if anyone figured out a solution to this problem. So far, all I was able to do is complain to honda.
I just got our 2002 Accord inspected. AMA advised to do this prior to warranty expiration so Honda would take care of any issues. They found three key problems,
1) Block Heater Inoperative. No Big Deal they will fix I hope. 2)Charging System failed load test. Odd I say since car is only 2.5 years old. 3) Valve cover is beginning to "sweat" around the gasket.
Has anyone else had the same problem(s) with their 2002 Accord with 4cyl?
Make sure you test drive the actual car you're picking up before signing the papers (I insisted that my contract with the dealer state "acceptance of delivery by buyer subject to test-drive and buyer's approval."
If it is a manual you are looking for, pay particular attention to any freeplay in the stickshift. The shifter in my '04 V-6 Accord Coupe has no rods in the linkage and therefore no adjustment screws to tighten. Its just a plastic shifter attached to a cable linkage that goes to the tranny. Mine has some slop in 2nd gear (about 1/2" freeplay in either direction while the shifter is IN gear) which the dealer says is normal and will not repair or replace.
My Honda Accord 2003 LX has most of the rattling/squeaking noise that people mentioned here. Is there anybody in Houston have their dealership fixed these problems?
You make an excellent point! ---- When we purchase our Honda Vehicles, we walk the New Car lot with the sales person. When we find the vehicles that we are interested in purchasing, we ask him to get the keys to the vehicles and we take them for a test drive. Sometimes we drive two or three vehicles of the same model before we make a decision. YES, each vehicle does drive differently. When you drive two or three vehicles "back-to-back" you can really see the difference. The time to deal with a "problem vehicle" is before you make a decision to purchase!
This is second attempt to post, appologies if duplicated. Recently purchased new Accord V6 6 speed. I have always driven manual shift automobiles-not a rookie. Clutch in the car engages like a 15 year old new driver. The clutch goes from disengaged to beginning to engage as you let the pedal out, to fully engaged and lurches. Had a friend drive it yesterday, he had same complaint. Anyone have this complaint or solution? Thanks in advance.
I actually got this from a earlier post... but didn't see anyone respond to it... Im actually experiencing the exact same thing... Can anyone help?
Hi, Bought 05 EX V6 in 2/05. After first week, noticed that after I pull out of parking space and first start to drive and accelerate out of a turn, I will hear a rubbing sound (and feel it in the pedal) as if something was rubbing up against the bottom of the car. It will happen only once. I will not be able to duplicate when the vehicle is warm. So far, dealer has not been a\ble to hear the noise
I am not having the shifting problems you describe. I have a 2005 Accord Coupe 6-speed w/NAV and it shifts very smoooooooooootthly. Sorry I can't help.
What was quoted or should I say requoted by Capriracer is the Tire, Tire, Tire forum #4555 was: capriracer, "Tires, tires, tires" #4555, 20 Mar 2005 8:31 am talks about a maxmum burst pressure on tires being approximately equivalent to 100 psi.
The sidewall number is the maximum air pressure that should be put into the tire when it is cold. As a tire moves the friction can warm up the tire and increase the pressure by 5 or 6 pounds.
This is not to be confused at all by burst pressure. Typically OSHA, engineering and safety requirements require a significant safety margin in burst presssure exceeding recommneded maximum pressure. While it is not always 200% (2 to 1) many times it is a least 50 percent more than the maximum sidewall posting. Note : you will not see tire manuafacturers posting any information about tire burst pressure because of potential legal liability.
Normally, the palcard posting on your door jamb or in your owner's manual is significantly less than the maximum recommned PSI on the tire. Increasing your tire pressure 3 to 4 pounds above the palcard posting should not cause you burst problems or excessive center wear. In fact you will get some handling and mileage advantages. The handling improvement is not as dramtic with newer lower profile 45,50,55 tires as it was with older high profile tires 60, 65, 70, becuase lower profiles already have stiffer sidewalls.
The biggest problem people usually have with tire inflation is not overinfation but underinflation. Having a tire underinflated by as little as 2 psi can decrease your mileage by 10%.
Please review my question in message #9935 and give me feedback. Do you have any complaints with the point of clutch engagement or smoothness. My problem would appear to be a lack of expertise with a clutch, except I have no problems with my former Prelude or Toyota. Thanks, BMc
Sorry I didn't give you a direct response to your question. There maybe something wrong with your clutch. I would do two things, first I would go to your dealer and have them check it out and second I would drive some other 6-speed, even better if you can drive one at your same servicing dealership. If the sevice can find something wrong and can fix it, that is great. If the other 6-speeds you try seeem different to you you have a strong case to get yours resolved. However, if the other 6-speeds drive exactly like yours then you might be out of luck.
Different manual transmissions engage differently, the Accord engages fairly soon after you release the clutch pedal from the floor. This takes a little getting used to if you are used to driving a manual clutch that has aboot 1 1/2 - 2 inches off the floor before it engages.
Does anyone know where and how to change the pollen filter on a 2001 acccord v6? I did a search and only came up with answers for my 2003 accord v6, which has simple instructions in the owners manuel. On my daughters 2001 v6, the owners manuel advises you to take it to the dealer.
Hi, Yes my 04' EX/V6 accord does have auto climate control so everything with the air condition hopefully will be in tacked. I'm not sure about the the trip computer or what it is, but I'm assuming that the communication with the navigation system is between the DVD-Rom drive, GPS antenna which are both located in the trunk and the in dash unit. I think the major problem I may have is the difference in the two wiring harness between vehicle with or without factory navigation. This difference may cause me to replace the dash instrument wiring harness. Thanks reply back if you have any more suggestion, I really can use the help.
To add (not to overkill, but because the noise is there, I have not been able to re-create during test drive with dealer in auto and it is a new car):
-noise is a rubbing, scraping or grinding coming from under, sometimes felt in the gas pedal,
-does not happen when car is still (at least not that I have sensed) ... and I have been listening; will only happen after I put the car in motion and only in first gear,
-depending on speed of auto at the time the noise occurs, it will be slight (when I drive 5 mph or less, it will occur as I then accelerate to 10 mph) to "downright there" (if I accelerate in a normal fashion from still to 10 mph,
-will only occur 1 X (anytime from 1 1/2 to 10 seconds after car put in motion),
-will not be able to re-create if I pull over, shut the car off and re-start.
I have brought the auto in 2 X. Dealer was unable to re-create the first time and said he put the car up and all appears normal. I test drove the car with dealer 2nd time, no noise. Frustrating for me, but at least the dealer (so far) has been cooperative.
My Quick thoughts, something is very tight in tolerance and when it warms up just a little there is no problem. Possbily a flywheel or clutch throwout plate/bearing.
Since you can't duplicate, the way I would handle it is to tell the dealer service advisor, exactly what you have posted here and leave it overnight with them. Let them experience first-hand when the car starts up cold.
If the "rubbing sound" is very slight or subtle you have nothing to concern yourself about. It is probably the Accord's Antilock Brake System (ABS) self-test. This will occur a moment after you start the car, put it in gear and move forward a few feet. You probably will not notice it the rest of your driving day.
I think I heard that noise/feeling a few times with my 03EXV6 recently. Since it (the noise) doesn't affect the performance and it's hard to duplicate, I wouldn't worry too much for now.
P.S. I heard the noise when the car was already warmed up and driven. It's not the ABS testing noise when you pulled out. If I remember correctly, it happened on a bumpy road.
It is my understanding that the Accord's anti-lock braking system does not "activate" until you reach a certain speed. It will only activate once, when the car is first started, but happens whether the engine is warm or cold. It feels like a small vibration, and you would feel it in the break pedal. I would say that if it only happens once, each time you start your vehicle, that might be the answer. My wife has a 2003 Accord EX V6, and every time I drive it I feel the buzz after hitting 7mph or so. Not sure if this is it, but something to consider.
This is a pesky, rough "Honda" manual clutch characteristic that I have been complaining about in this forum for so long, and yet I'm getting the same kind of stupid responses -- "my car shifts like a silk", and the like. This Honda clutch is crappy -- it lurches and stutters. The Honda technicians who drove my car admit that the clutch needs "babying" when you release it after shifting to 2nd or 3rd gear. And the RPM needs to be at least at the 3000 mark when you shift gear(too much gas consumption!). The "babying" is not only pesky annoying but will have an adverse effect on the clutch in the long run.
I'm not buying another Honda with manual transmission. Not with this crappy clutch and rough horsey engine in slow traffic.
Go to micronair.com. Click on "Product Finder". Then follow the steps to search by make and model. Then click "Installation" for the detailed steps to replace.
So let's piece together your exact situation. You bought a new silver 2003 Honda Accord LX 5-speed manual in October 21, 2002 and you put approximately 15,000 miles a year on your car making your current mileage around 35,000. Your have more than 15 year's experience driving manual shift cars, so manual clutch technique should not be a problem. However, you comment about having to get to 3,000 rpm and problems with 2-3rd shift bothers me. Normally if a person has clutch problems it is taking off in first. If the 1rst-2nd shift is not a problem, then the 2nd -3rd shift should be less of a problem unless maybe there is a syncronizer problem oar 3 gear is actually slightly damaged. then Your car had 107 miles on it when you bought it ( maybe these were very rough demo miles and the start of your problems). You have had your clutch problem and have been complaining about it for more than a year. You car has been under warranty and probably still has come warranty left. Have you made any formal complaints to Honda Motor company, has the dealership done anything to remedy the problem, is the problem you are experiencing only your car or do you fell the problem exists with all 5-speed manual transmission Honda Accord Sedans?
Hs your car always had the rpoblem? If not when did it begin developing? If it was a year ago you would have only had about 20,000 miles and it could have been remedied under warranty.
What has been your dealer's response? If you are not satisfied with your dealer's service department, did you go to another dealer. Did a regional representaive ever look into your problem?
Bottom line, sorry people are saying "my car shifts like silk" but that is what a noraml Honda shifts like. If your car is having shifting problems, then apparently something is wrong with your car. Because a "lurch and stutter" clutch is not normal. Yours is a 7th generation Honda, just like the current 2005s. Have you driven a 5-speed manual 4-cylinder 2005 LX sedan to see if the clutch has the same characteristics as yours?
Good Luck,
MidCow, crus'n in 6th, the Manual Shift Man
P.S.- Any manaul can stutter and become horsey if you don't downshift and lug the engine in too high of a gear. But I am assuming that is not your problem :>)
Comments
We brought it into the dealership, and it took them a couple days, but they found the source/root of the problem: They found that the cable/wiring connecting to the fuse box was loose. It would get juice, but if it moved slightly one way or another, the connection was lost, causing the problem as described.
So, Greg's post was definitely valuable and along the same lines, and we would have had the dealer check/try all those things as well, but fortunately they found the problem and have corrected it. Dang those loose connections! Those will screw up an electrical system every time...
That maximum 44 psi label molded into your tire's sidewall is, in effect, a "burst" pressure beyond which operation of the tire may be unsafe.
A couple of pounds beyond the recommened pressures may provide slightly quicker handling response... at the expense of a slightly harsher ride. It will also tend to wear the center of the tire's tread prematurely.
Remember to remove the negative (-) battery cable first to clean. Then remove the postive cable. Otherwise a wrench can touch the metal of the car which is still connect to the negative and you will have an electric ark not unlike a welding rod.
Be sure to check the negative connection at the engine and the postivie connection.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Is there anything I can do? I am the only one who feels this way?
Don't hesitate to bring it back to your dealer and insist they replace it. There is no reason the leather in a car a couple of years old should crack and split so soon. Good luck!
I run my tires 3-4 pounds above the recommended and have NEVER had one wear in the center. I rotate regularly (usually a part of the purchase package with lifetime balancing).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.autorecalls.org/1998/38667.shtml
Component: Electrical System: Ignition: Switch
Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence Summary: WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
YMMV. I'm 6'2 and found the Accord seats to be the most comfortable of any mid-sized car.
You folks are hilarious on tire pressures. I raced several FWD cars with 40-50 psi for an entire season with no problem. Underinflation is a far more serious problem. You'll know when you have too much pressure because you'll shake the fillings out of your teeth. Most folks are amazed that increasing tire pressure to the mid-30's cold will lighten the steering; greatly improve the precision of their steering; stop in shorter distances; and behave better in rain.
Wondering if anyone figured out a solution to this problem. So far, all I was able to do is complain to honda.
I just got our 2002 Accord inspected. AMA advised to do this prior to warranty expiration so Honda would take care of any issues. They found three key problems,
1) Block Heater Inoperative. No Big Deal they will fix I hope.
2)Charging System failed load test. Odd I say since car is only 2.5 years old.
3) Valve cover is beginning to "sweat" around the gasket.
Has anyone else had the same problem(s) with their 2002 Accord with 4cyl?
If it is a manual you are looking for, pay particular attention to any freeplay in the stickshift. The shifter in my '04 V-6 Accord Coupe has no rods in the linkage and therefore no adjustment screws to tighten. Its just a plastic shifter attached to a cable linkage that goes to the tranny. Mine has some slop in 2nd gear (about 1/2" freeplay in either direction while the shifter is IN gear) which the dealer says is normal and will not repair or replace.
Good luck!
-FS
Thanks.
Hi,
Bought 05 EX V6 in 2/05. After first week, noticed that after I pull out of parking space and first start to drive and accelerate out of a turn, I will hear a rubbing sound (and feel it in the pedal) as if something was rubbing up against the bottom of the car. It will happen only once. I will not be able to duplicate when the vehicle is warm. So far, dealer has not been a\ble to hear the noise
MidCow
The sidewall number is the maximum air pressure that should be put into the tire when it is cold. As a tire moves the friction can warm up the tire and increase the pressure by 5 or 6 pounds.
This is not to be confused at all by burst pressure. Typically OSHA, engineering and safety requirements require a significant safety margin in burst presssure exceeding recommneded maximum pressure. While it is not always 200% (2 to 1) many times it is a least 50 percent more than the maximum sidewall posting. Note : you will not see tire manuafacturers posting any information about tire burst pressure because of potential legal liability.
Normally, the palcard posting on your door jamb or in your owner's manual is significantly less than the maximum recommned PSI on the tire. Increasing your tire pressure 3 to 4 pounds above the palcard posting should not cause you burst problems or excessive center wear. In fact you will get some handling and mileage advantages. The handling improvement is not as dramtic with newer lower profile 45,50,55 tires as it was with older high profile tires 60, 65, 70, becuase lower profiles already have stiffer sidewalls.
The biggest problem people usually have with tire inflation is not overinfation but underinflation. Having a tire underinflated by as little as 2 psi can decrease your mileage by 10%.
Caution, don't even get close to burst pressure. A burst pressure explosion could cause significant injury or even fatality. See this article: http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0UBT/is_32_14/ai_63944420
YPMV Check Often,
MidCow
Thanks, BMc
Sorry I didn't give you a direct response to your question. There maybe something wrong with your clutch. I would do two things, first I would go to your dealer and have them check it out and second I would drive some other 6-speed, even better if you can drive one at your same servicing dealership. If the sevice can find something wrong and can fix it, that is great. If the other 6-speeds you try seeem different to you you have a strong case to get yours resolved. However, if the other 6-speeds drive exactly like yours then you might be out of luck.
Different manual transmissions engage differently, the Accord engages fairly soon after you release the clutch pedal from the floor. This takes a little getting used to if you are used to driving a manual clutch that has aboot 1 1/2 - 2 inches off the floor before it engages.
Good Luck in getting your problem resolved.
MidCow
I have read some of your posts; you may have opinion.
I did a search and only came up with answers for my 2003 accord v6, which has simple instructions in the owners manuel.
On my daughters 2001 v6, the owners manuel advises you to take it to the dealer.
Thanks,Dave
IN POST #9944 YOU ASKED:
Pls refer to post 9957.
I have read some of your posts; you may have opinion.
I am not sure what you are asking? Post #9957 hasn't occurred yet?
Thanks,
MidCow
-noise is a rubbing, scraping or grinding coming from under, sometimes felt in the gas pedal,
-does not happen when car is still (at least not that I have sensed) ... and I have been listening; will only happen after I put the car in motion and only in first gear,
-depending on speed of auto at the time the noise occurs, it will be slight (when I drive 5 mph or less, it will occur as I then accelerate to 10 mph) to "downright there" (if I accelerate in a normal fashion from still to 10 mph,
-will only occur 1 X (anytime from 1 1/2 to 10 seconds after car put in motion),
-will not be able to re-create if I pull over, shut the car off and re-start.
I have brought the auto in 2 X. Dealer was unable to re-create the first time and said he put the car up and all appears normal. I test drove the car with dealer 2nd time, no noise. Frustrating for me, but at least the dealer (so far) has been cooperative.
Pls read posts 9937 (9886) and 9947.
Thanks.
Since you can't duplicate, the way I would handle it is to tell the dealer service advisor, exactly what you have posted here and leave it overnight with them. Let them experience first-hand when the car starts up cold.
Good Luck.
MidCow
If the "rubbing sound" is very slight or subtle you have nothing to concern yourself about. It is probably the Accord's Antilock Brake System (ABS) self-test. This will occur a moment after you start the car, put it in gear and move forward a few feet. You probably will not notice it the rest of your driving day.
P.S. I heard the noise when the car was already warmed up and driven. It's not the ABS testing noise when you pulled out. If I remember correctly, it happened on a bumpy road.
This is a pesky, rough "Honda" manual clutch characteristic that I have been complaining about in this forum for so long, and yet I'm getting the same kind of stupid responses -- "my car shifts like a silk", and the like. This Honda clutch is crappy -- it lurches and stutters. The Honda technicians who drove my car admit that the clutch needs "babying" when you release it after shifting to 2nd or 3rd gear. And the RPM needs to be at least at the 3000 mark when you shift gear(too much gas consumption!). The "babying" is not only pesky annoying but will have an adverse effect on the clutch in the long run.
I'm not buying another Honda with manual transmission. Not with this crappy clutch and rough horsey engine in slow traffic.
ramida
So let's piece together your exact situation. You bought a new silver 2003 Honda Accord LX 5-speed manual in October 21, 2002 and you put approximately 15,000 miles a year on your car making your current mileage around 35,000. Your have more than 15 year's experience driving manual shift cars, so manual clutch technique should not be a problem. However, you comment about having to get to 3,000 rpm and problems with 2-3rd shift bothers me. Normally if a person has clutch problems it is taking off in first. If the 1rst-2nd shift is not a problem, then the 2nd -3rd shift should be less of a problem unless maybe there is a syncronizer problem oar 3 gear is actually slightly damaged. then Your car had 107 miles on it when you bought it ( maybe these were very rough demo miles and the start of your problems). You have had your clutch problem and have been complaining about it for more than a year. You car has been under warranty and probably still has come warranty left. Have you made any formal complaints to Honda Motor company, has the dealership done anything to remedy the problem, is the problem you are experiencing only your car or do you fell the problem exists with all 5-speed manual transmission Honda Accord Sedans?
Hs your car always had the rpoblem? If not when did it begin developing? If it was a year ago you would have only had about 20,000 miles and it could have been remedied under warranty.
What has been your dealer's response? If you are not satisfied with your dealer's service department, did you go to another dealer. Did a regional representaive ever look into your problem?
Bottom line, sorry people are saying "my car shifts like silk" but that is what a noraml Honda shifts like. If your car is having shifting problems, then apparently something is wrong with your car. Because a "lurch and stutter" clutch is not normal. Yours is a 7th generation Honda, just like the current 2005s. Have you driven a 5-speed manual 4-cylinder 2005 LX sedan to see if the clutch has the same characteristics as yours?
Good Luck,
MidCow, crus'n in 6th, the Manual Shift Man
P.S.- Any manaul can stutter and become horsey if you don't downshift and lug the engine in too high of a gear. But I am assuming that is not your problem :>)