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Dodge Intrepid Problems



  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046
    Hey gang,

    I've been wondering...what would happen if I put modern tranny fluid, like ATF+3 or ATF+4 in an older car, like, say, my '89 Gran Fury, my '68 Dart, or my '57 DeSoto?

    It's tough to kill those older Chrysler transmissions as it is, but would they benefit any from a more modern type of fluid?

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The friction modifier characteristics of ATF+3 are not compatible with the mechanical design, clutch and band composition, or fluid pressures of your earlier transmissions. Expect slide bump shifts.
  • meeeshelmeeeshel Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. I actully just pulled out my owners manual and found the correct type for my car. It says ATF +2 Type 7176. Now I do not know if there is a difference between +2 and +3, but I guess I should go with what is listed there, unless something has been updated since the manual was printed. Thanks again.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046

    Thanks for the info about my older transmission. Guess I'd better just stick with what they're used to.


    A couple months ago, I asked my mechanic what kind of fluid they put in my Intrepid when they did the tranny service, and he said Type 4. He said the older ones take Type 3, which is the same thing as 7176. I was a little worried, because I've heard that Chrysler 4-speed automatics tend to fail right after the servicing, which is a sure sign the mechanic put the wrong fluid in. However, I had mine serviced last October, and this was around March that I asked him, about 14,000 miles later. So I'm sure if he put the wrong fluid in, I would've known about it by now!

    I do remember him saying Type 3 and 7176 are the same thing, don't know about Type 2 though.

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    meeeshel: Type 7176 fluid was originally marketed as ATF+, superseded by improved +2, then superseded by improved +3. Unlikely you'll find +2 around unless some retailer's dumping old stock.

    andre1969: Type 9602 is +4, which is NOT backward compatible with earlier transmissions/transaxles. Read post #241 for applications, including yours.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Cong. on your Intrepid. I am looking for the same car along with couple more different brands. The ones that I found w/20K-24K were around $15K-16K. I believed I could do better than that I preferred to search more. Do you mind telling us how much your deal was? Thanks.
  • eeeleeel Posts: 57
    95 intrepid - purchase new in 95 -
    oil changes every 3k
    tranny fluid/filter at 30k
    cooling flush at 30k
    that's it - traded in w/almost 50k on a 98 intrepid

    98 intrepid - oil change every 3k
    tranny fluid/filter at 30k
    that's it - still have it - still no problems
  • CanadaCanada Posts: 1
    Last week I started having intermittent starting problems with my 94 (115K miles). When I turned the ignition key, only heard a "click". Several attempts like that then the engine started. Took my car to the auto-electric shop, they checked everything (battery, cables, starter, solenoid) and said nothing wrong (they could not reproduce the problem) and suggested the starter is the culprit. I then took it home and for several days, the problem never happened. However, yesterday, the symptom returned.

    Should I change the starter, or is it a on-board computer problem (hmm, could be expensive)?
  • With only 2900 miles on it, my brand new 2001 Intrepid R/T started bucking violently on the way home from work yesterday. Stopped at the nearest dealer and, confirmed a CAM sensor problem which, will be fixed under warrantee next week.
    Kind of irritated that my new car didn't even make to it's first oil change before having it's first serious problem. Hopefully, this is not a sign of things to come !
    Anyone else hear of CAM sensor problems w/ Dodge?
  • mark194mark194 Posts: 15
    The Cam sensor on my sons 98 Intrepid (2.7L)went while under warranty. It went again some 30,000 miles later when it was out of warranty. It's a simple fix and the part is only about 30 bucks. My Mopar mechanic friends say that it's not usual for the sensors to blow.
  • fmagri2fmagri2 Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 2000 dodge intrepid with only 14,000 miles. Initially I noticed there was a delay of acceleration when I hit the gas from a dead stop. it was kind of like the car was ready to die out & then it would suddenly accelerate. I thought maybe it just needed to be driven for a while & maybe the previous owner used bad gas. well I still have the problem & it's quite annoying. almost every time I hit the gas it bogs likes it's going to die out & suddenly it takes off. I had the dealer inspect it & they say they cannot duplicate the problem & their computer says there in nothing wrong. any suggestions out there from anyone else who may have had the same problem & rectified it?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I have driven several of them so far, I think that is its nature. You can not do rabit take offs with that car. They are very heavy and I don't think that your car has a problem, just enjoy it:0)
  • fmagri2fmagri2 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response snowman. Do you or anybody else out there know if there is a site I that can troubleshoot problems with my car?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046
    which engine does your Intrepid have? Mine has the 2.7, and I've never noticed an acceleration problem. In fact, what you describe sounds an awful lot like what some of my older cars would soon as you step on the gas pedal to accelerate, they would sputter a bit, and I'd have to lift my foot off the pedal and tap it again to keep it from dying.

    Still, I'm talking about old, carbureted cars with high mileage. An Intrepid shouldn't act like a 30 year old Dart, though!

    Now, I won't get much performance out of my 2.7 unless I stomp on it. After all, the peak hp comes around 6000 rpm, and peak torque around 5000 rpm. But still, I've never had it act like it was about to cut out on me, in the 48,000 miles I've owned it.

    Have you checked minor things like the air filter and pcv valve? You'd think the dealer would discover something that easy, but still, ya never know!
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Posts: 56
    FMAGRI2--Different engine, so it may not apply, but I cured initial hesitation on my '96 3.3L by running a good fuel system cleaner thru it. You need to look for one that cleans carbon off the back sides of the intake valves. DON'T use additives like this any more than absolutely necessary, tho. I don't know about you, but my problem probably is related to the way I drive. I think I just accelerate too gently to keep things clean. They used to call it blowing out the carbon. I try to hammer it once in awhile, but it's not my natural style.

    Here's one for you to ponder, folks. When the heater control is set in other than the recirc. mode, my car makes a clunking noise after the car is started; this also occurs when switching to recirc to outside air position. The noise is a fairly loud "click, click, click", and it makes exactly 20 clicks before it quits, and won't do it again unless the car is shut off & restarted or switched to recirc & back. I think it may be a sticking flow directing door in the system--anyone else have an idea? Any cheap fixes, if you've encountered this?
    Also, can anything be done to improve the almost non-existent door stops on these earlier bodies?
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Posts: 56
    While I'm thinking of it, I have one other problem that bugs me. I get a vibration with A/C on that you can not only feel, but hear as a sort of low pitched "brrrr". Dealer replaced the compressor around 30K, which helped a little for a very short time. I have 90K now, and it still bugs me, although I've had no other A/C problems. Any thoughts?
  • dceresidceresi Posts: 1
    I went to get the freon recharged in my 1995 Intrepid, and the mechanic said that i have a clog in my A/C system, and that he thinks its in the expansion valve. I know I can get the expansion valve online for about $60.00, but my Chilton's Manual does not get into the A/C system in that detail. I was wondering if it is possible, and safe, to go ahead and change out the valve myself. I have 3 years experience with this car and 10 years mechanical experience. If the clog is not in my Expansion Valve, is there any way to flush the freon pipes and extricate this clog? My father has a 1994 Intrepid and he also has had A/C problems, has anyone else experienced similar problems, ie A/C blowing warm with freon pressure good, bad compressor, etc...?

    1995 3.5L Intrepid
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046
    I have a feeling that has something to do with a door in the ventillation system trying to open or close. I've never heard it in my Intrepid, but my '68 Dart, of all cars, makes kind of a squeaking noise when you turn the heater on, and again when you turn it off (or turn off the car with the heater on). Somewhere during it's long life, the whole assembly that contains the fresh air intake (those little vent boxes under the dash along with the tubes that run from them to the heater ducts) came loose, and one of the little doors on the passenger side scrapes when it opens and closes. I know an Intrepid is a long shot from a Dart, but somewhere in there, I'm sure there's some little doors that open and close, and maybe some little gear or cog or something that operates them.

    As for the A/C vibration problem, the only thing I could think of is a bent pulley maybe?
  • whirlswhirls Posts: 1
    My 1995 dodge intrepid with 150k miles has major transmission problems. I brought it into my mechanic two weeks ago with minor lurching at 30 mph and his said that I should have my tarns. fluid flushed, he used this new machine he has so he didn't change the filter or crack the pan. I went on a few day trip and on the way back the transmission started to make a grinding noise, but it still shifts well. The grinding stops in park, neutral and when I maintain top speed on the freeway. The transmission shop man said he hadn't heard anything sound like that before and thought it was coming from the torque converter. The fix-1,500 to 2,000 dollars for the converter and transmission repair. my question, could the wrong tarns. build have caused this? how can I tell what build he put in there? do I have any recourse?
    thanks for any input. Dean
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046
    Could be the wrong fluid, but also, with a tranny with mileage that high, sometimes a flush can do more harm than good. Dropping the pan and letting it drain out is one thing, but I'd imagine a flush, with any kind of pressure, may have dislodged stuff that had settled in crevices, and allowed it to recirculate through the transmission.

    First thing I would do is take it to another shop and get a second opinion. If it turns out to be the wrong type of fluid in the car, you may have recourse against the place that did the flush.
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Posts: 56
    Andre1969- good description. The noise sounds exactly like a plastic gear jumping teeth or chattering. I will check the A/C pulley-that's a good suggestion.

    fmagri2- Another thing that can cause hesitation on these fuel injection systems is a buildup in the vicinity of the air plate in the plenum neck (for lack of a better dexcription). I don't know what the buildup is composed of, but it has the appearance of carbonized gasoline residue, which of course is not likely in that area. Anyway, try removing the flexible hose connecting the neck to the air cleaner housing and cleaning the residue out with a spray Gumout carb cleaner or something similar. Have the engine running and spray clean everyting you can see, particularly around the air (throttle) plate. Go easy, the carb cleaner doesn't burn like gasoline, so it's easy to stall the engine. Just do it in small bursts. I've cured initial hesitation on several cars this way.
  • mcwrightmcwright Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Intrepid. It had the transmission replaced after 75K. Now 95K later I am having the same problem. When you brake, sometimes a shift is felt and when you take off, the transmission will only shift from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd. It will not shift into 4th. Any suggestions?
  • fmagri2fmagri2 Posts: 3
    Thanks gentlemen. I'll give your ideas a try.
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Posts: 56
    I put new belts on last weekend, and although it didn't totally eliminate the "brrr" noise, it reduced it quite a bit. Does that give anyone an extra clue that might help me?
  • For the past few years I have own my car (99 intrepid) I have yet to encounter any of those problems some of you posted. I have people who tried to discouraged the car by saying that those cars come with a lot of problems. But in fact, I had more problems with my lexus es 300 then all cars ( Maxima,Intrepid,Lexus) I owned.

    I the only problem that I have is that the intrepid is not as smooth as the Lexus but they both split the same maintenance bill, EXPENSIVE.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046
    ...well, 51400 to be exact. Nothing major wrong with it yet. The tranny's fine, the belts and hoses are fine. Needs new rear brake pads, but I can't complain, getting 51K out of the originals! Needs new spark plugs. Only real problem is a coolant leak...cracked thermostat housing. That's going to cost about $160 to fix, which I guess isn't too bad, nowadays. Still, the last time I had a cracked thermostat housing, it was on a '69 Dart, and it was my own fault for over-tightening the bolts after replacing the thermostat. I remember that sucker cost about $5.00 for me to replace. Guess those days are over!

    Still, I'm happy. I know people who have totally destroyed cars by the 50-60K mark, so in comparison, a cracked thermostat housing is pretty minor ;-)
  • You could say thank you, I'll take care of it myself. Then go to the parts dept. and buy one there. I have not looked at it myself to see the work involved.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,046
    ...actually, this was an independent mechanic that I took the Intrepid to. I have a feeling that it would have been even more expensive if I'd taken it back to the dealership. I honestly don't know how hard it would've been to put the part in myself. At a quick glance under the hood, it looks like only 4 bolts holding it in, but two of 'em are buried. I do remember the part itself came out to about $90.00.

    The thing that really irritates me though, is that I could've gotten it fixed under warranty. I had seen the leak before, but it looked like it was coming from a nozzle. Well stupid me, I thought it was supposed to do that, like maybe to keep it from building up too much pressure or something! It was still under warranty when I first noticed the coolant, but now I'm 15,000 miles out of warranty!
  • Thanks to Greggfl (msg 178) for the response. Story concluded with the replacement of the tie rods that connect to the steering rack behind the engine. The pull to the left during shifting became a clunking sound and became easy to diagnose. The tie rod bushings were nearly gone. A several hundred dollar repair, but no more pulling to the left and the steering is solid and tight.
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