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the engine is a great engine so far as I can tell I've got 54K on my gti and not a hiccup of any kind.
There are a surprising number of stupid things wrong with it, but nothing critical to performance of the car (the rear wiper doesn't work right, the gas gauge sits at empty 80% of the time then wakes up at random, things like that)
But I must take exception to your comment that all the luxury toys are good.
When I bought the vr6, it was all or nothing, you couldn't get a vr6 without the moon roof, electric tint mirror, heater mirrors, climatronic, rain sensing wipers and all that.
I must say the rain sensing wipers far exceeded my expectations and I'm very happy to have this gadget.
But hell hath no fury like the anger I exhibit when I want to get air to blow out of the climate control system. Sadly, it is not broken, it is just badly designed, you can't make it do what you want. at 76 degrees it automatically turns on recicrulate, whether you want it to or not, and if it's cold inside and you want to blow cool air, forget it, impossible. it's either "LO" or hot air.
I can't imagine the quality control or design test people at VW that let this pathetic monstrosity of progress exist.
Oh, and one other thing, while I'm whining... the drive by wire stuff (unless they've improved it a LOT) has to go. give me a cable to the intake any day.
Try stepping on the gas and brake at the same time and watch what happens. But overall, it's still a VW and lots of fun to drive. kicks my WRX's [non-permissible content removed] in that regard, though it's nowhere near as fast.
Besides getting it serviced and oil change, etc.
anything else I should do during the drive, besides put in gas?
Anyone every drive cross country on their GTI?
will it be hard on the car?
Please advise.
or am in in the wrong place?
2000 GTI GLX VR6 , Tropic Orange , Black Leather,
9000 Miles ! Showroom Condition - MINT - Impeccable / How much of a premium can I add to this car for it's mileage/condition ??
Inside/Outside/Under the hood / it looks like it just came off the showroom/ What is it worth ?
Thank You , George in Bristol,Connecticut
Maybe make sure when in fla that bugs haven't consumed the air filter and radiator. can't really think of anything else.
anybody hear anything about this?
Alas after some rental equipment I got it done, and it was well well worth it.
I got these adjustable ones, so I set it to 'unbearable' and it's great.
What are you selling your GTI for? Does it have heated seats?
I'm in CT as well.
Thanks!
We have been looking and haven't found one that drives like it(2001 GTI 1.8 T) but the one that came closest was the Saab 92 Aero (227 HP T). The BMW 1 Series is coming next year to the US, so maybe that one is one to consider. My brother has one and he likes it, however, BMW reliability is not good for 5 and 7 series, so who knows about the 1.
We have been talking to German people that know the 2006 GOLF models and they say it is as bad or even worse now (they have them for a while in Europe). VW has reduced costs by 30% (price not reduced though) and the quality is just getting worse.
We were in love with our GTI but the problems were too many and finally we said good bye.
FIND ANOTHER CAR. They are just getting worse.
well i'm a little upset about the whole situation, to say the least. i took my car in to get a certain problem fixed, and i ended up with $3500 of extra repairs. so i guess i have a 2 part question:
(a) any idea what could be causing the problem??
and
(b) is there anything i can do about the dealership screwing me over??
any help will greatly appreciated.
Dano
With the age of your car and knowing that VW shocks are notorious for not lasting long, I would say it was reasonable for the dealer to assume changing the struts would fix the problem (you probably needed them anyway and I'm sure the car's handling feels a bit tighter). But why they replaced both CV axles and messed with the control arms is beyond me. CV axles can last a long time as long as the rubber boots are intact. I find it hard to believe all 4 boots were ripped open, thus requiring both axles to be replaced. I have an 84 GTI with over 200k miles and still have the original left CV axle, not to mention all the original bushings. And I don't hear any clunking (knock on wood).
I'm not totally clear on when your clunking occurs. Can it be heard only when you park? Does it occur anytime you park or only when entering a raised or uneven surface? Do you ever hear it during u-turns or over bumps? A common source of clunking is the strut bearing. This should have been replaced when they did the struts. If they didn't, then this could be your problem, but they tend to clunk over bumps and turns. Other possibilities are the sway bar bushings, sway bar links, control arm bushings, and ball joints. However, these would all cause a loose feeling in the handling and the noise should be heard over bumps and while making turns. Without hearing the noise and seeing what situations make it occur, its hard to say for sure, but I will mention one problem that is often overlooked. It could simply be a loose brake pad. If you are missing the clips that hold the brake pads securely in place or they are installed wrong, the pad will be able to move slightly back and forth. It will be heard as a loud clunk as you back up and then you will hear another one after you stop and move forward. Usually the noise is only heard when moving in and out of parking spots. Both my 84 GTI and 2003 Suzuki Aerio had this problem. In my GTI's case, it was a clip missing, and then later on, the calipers were worn out.
At any rate, good luck. I hope this info is useful for you. Let us know if you find out the real problem and whether you get anywhere with getting a refund.
We have a 04 Audi A4 1.8T CVT that we are very happy with it; especially with the amazing 27-29 mgp in mixed driving & 34-37 mpg on the highway (no lead foots in family).
With that experience, the 02-04 GTi is on my hatch short list. What kind of mileage are you 1.8T GTi owners getting (please include your driving style and whether you have AT or 5 spd manual)? Thanks!
Were your problems exclusive to the 1.8T or did you hear of them in VR6s too? Does Brazil vs Mexico assembly matter? Was told by VW sls mgr that Jetta VR6 and GTI VR6 are two different animals...anyone care to comment? Drove a Honda Civic SI but it just doesn't cut it...132ftlb torque @5k vs almost 200 @ 3200 is the reason why, plus a 4cyl vs 6cyl...apples & oranges. Someone tell me some GTI VR6 success stories please !!!
I have an '85 GTI that started to buck or jump like the engine was not getting power in 1st and 2nd gears. This problem started gradually until it has got so severe I can not drive the car now. The engine runs great in neutral and reverse. Has anyone ran across this problem before or have any suggestions as to what it might be?
Cleveland, OH
The odometer says 85,000 which is what it said when I bought car used in 1994 and the first 4yrs I drove approx 100 frwy miles a day. Also a couple CA. to AZ. trips. Two yrs ago on trip to AZ the at 85mph the car jumped out of 5th gear the rpms reved no power shifted to 4th gear fine shift back to 5th did it again. Lost 5th and had the clutch repaired and 5th gear back. When the car starts to stall it makes a low gutter growl as it dies, seems like it's getting flood or no gas. Not sure what. The car has sat now for a 1yr and I started it the other day no problems give it gas in neutral engine sounds strong but can't drive it. help
I had the same thing happen to me when I had my 1987 GTI. All of a sudden the car started to stall and lose power.
If that doesn't solve the problem, the other possibility is the transfer pump inside the fuel tank. 1985-1987 VWs with the CIS Fuel Injection came with two fuel pumps - an internal (transfer) pump (attached to the fuel level sending unit) which draws the fuel from the gas tank and sends it to the main (high-pressure) pump located under the driver's side rear wheel well.
NOTE: The main pump should last at least 250,000 miles or more - so that should rule out the main pump as the cause - unless you're hearing strange groaning sounds from the rear wheel well.
What a surprise, thanks for responding and the info.
I am pretty sure the car may have 200,000 miles on it if not more and yes I do hear noises coming from the rear. When I get down to a 1/4 tank of gas It gets louder and I have to get gas. I ran out of gas one day on the frwy, the gauge was between a 1/4 & a 1/8 so after that I'd get gas at the quarter mark.
After you took the fuel distributor filter out your car ran good? No problems?
I hope to get my car back on the road soon, and will take your advice and check these things out. It may take a little time but I'll keep you posted with the out come..... Thanks again for your help.
Just wanted to let everyone know that I love my GTI, it's been a great car. This is the first time I've ever had any real problems with it. We call her Blacky, give her appreciation rub now and then and she's been good to me.
At 200,000 miles and a noise coming from the rear, the culprit is more than likely the transfer pump (inside the tank attached to the fuel tank sender unit). When that goes bad, the main fuel pump works much harder and produces a groaning sound. So I would get the transfer pump replaced.
Because of the heat turbocharged engines produce, synthetic oil reduces the chance of sludge forming in your engine (excessive sludge will result in oil starvation and engine failure) as opposed to conventional dino oils.
Anyway back to my topic...
Basically what's happening is I'm getting a new car this week, and it has to be preferably no more then $25K with most, if any, preferable options included. After reading most of these forums on the cars I listed above, I came down to the conclusion that the VW GTI is the best bet for the price, I mean small electrical problems, which many claim to have had on their VWs, I can take care of.
What would be the better car in terms of fun, acceleration, and reliability, the 1.8T or the VR6? I'm a big fan of manual tranny, so I had my eye on the VR6 particularly for its extra shifting gear, and the fact that most 6 speed models accelerate quicker then 5 speed. Unfortunately when I test drove the GTI, they only had a 1.8T, so I never got to try out the 6 speed model. Any suggestions?
By the way VW, which is a budget german car, has the smoothest manual gear shifter compared to any japanese or american car, the second I sat in the 1.8T I was amazed at how big on the inside a tiny car like that can be, even the rear seats had a good amount of legroom to sit comfortably, I mean this thing actually feels luxurious from the moment you get in, and it drives smooth, compared to the hollow bodied japanies cars which rev at 5-8 thousand rpms to get out the max power, GTI accelerate so fast, I swear this thing could rip most compact cars, even a lot of sedans and coups. But then again, I never tried out the VR6 so I shouldn't be talking here. Anyway any GTI owners out there, please leave feedback on what you think of your vehicles, and which would you say is more preferable particularly for speed.
If you wanna have a feeling of how the GTI V will ride, you can look at the new Jetta being sold right now. If you want a feeling for the new engine, the Audi A3 has it : you might want to consider that car too.
The VR6 is the true jewel in this comparison: beautiful sound, glass smooth, torque on tap anywhere from idle to redline. But the VR6 is nose-heavy so turn-in isn't as instinctive as it is in the lighter 1.8T. The turbo has some lag (ALL turbos do) but is fun to drive with a 5sp. I would say the VR6 is more fun straight line, but the 1.8T is more fun when you throw curves into the mix.
The reliabilty issues have been dealt with and the common problems (coils, window regs, O2 sensors) are non-existant in the latest versions. The '04 version of the Mark IV will likely be much more reliable than the Mark V's.
The Audi A3 has me anticipating an even higher evolution of the hatch. Can't wait 'til they arrive on our shores so I can test drive one! :P
I had my eye on the A3 Audi, but I don't know if it'll fit into my budget since it's expected starting pricce range is 25K and with add ons and optional features it'll come out to around 27-30K probably, I mean 25K is pretty much my limit, I can't afford to waste so much since I only work 2 days a week, and have tons of school work in between mon and thurs, so not much time to earn enough $ to afford something a bit of a higher class. The past 2 days I almost sold out to a couple of Nissan dealers for an Altima SE-R, but I checked it out, and it's not my type of car, even though it's pretty powerful and supposedly faster then the GTI VW, I find it too hollow on the inside, too much empty space, where the GTI is cozy and luxurious looking, and has a really dark atmosphere inside, I'm also hearing from some of its (altima SE-R) consumers that it's having clutch problems already. The freakin thing just came out last fall. Always the most expensive parts on those asian cars, it's as if they're made to break. I feel happy I never owned one now. My first car was an '87 900S SAAB sedan, and it was a pretty reliable car, never had a problem with the engine, most of the interior was funcional except for the heated seats and the odometer which was stuck at 169,613 miles, but probably had around 200K on it by the time I broke the axle (can't resist burn-outs, that car was fun to do that on, but the weight of the body killed the axles). Wasn't worth fixing compared to the price I got the car for, and the first and previouse owner never bothered changing the rotors, so I had that problem on both sets of wheels (that was a disaster), got rid of it after towing it to my house.
Posted by wetwillie:
"The VR6 is the true jewel in this comparison: beautiful sound, glass smooth, torque on tap anywhere from idle to redline. But the VR6 is nose-heavy so turn-in isn't as instinctive as it is in the lighter 1.8T. The turbo has some lag (ALL turbos do) but is fun to drive with a 5sp. I would say the VR6 is more fun straight line, but the 1.8T is more fun when you throw curves into the mix."
But can't you just modify the front suspensions putting stiffer ones?
thanx for your suggestions, I think I'll go with the Mark IV VR6, and oh yeah one more question. Does it matter where they're made? cos the 04 were made in Germany, and the 05 are made in Brazil.
Case in point:
1975 VW Scirocco - 250,000 miles
1987 VW Golf GT - 624,000 miles
1997 VW Jetta Trek (still own) - 135K miles
2003 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition - 47K miles.
My secret? I have REGULAR maintenance done on them, either by myself or my mechanic. Coming from an aircraft maintenance background (in the US Air Force),
I learned the importance of proper maintenance which I applied to every vehicle and power equipment I've owned since.
VW's reliabilty ratings (on only a handful of items - whether it's the coil-related issue, oil burning (bad rings), etc), are a result of bad suppliers (65%), self-inflicted manufacturing issues (i.e. falling window regulators) (15%), and poor/inattentive drivers who do not properly maintain their vehicles (20%).
Most people with their busy lifestyles nowadays usually don't take the time to make sure their vehicles are in good operating condition - with the worst culprits being those who lease their cars (which is why I make sure I buy my cars brand new - so I know the history of how they are driven) - these are the drivers who are most likely to neglect maintaining their vehicle (just jump in, turn the key, and drive), and the first to blame the manufacturer when something goes wrong. A recalled item due to a manufacturer's defect is one thing, but neglect is another thing entirely.
For example, the sludge issue on VW's 1.8T engine was completely avoidable, even before the TSBs were issued requiring synthetic oil (which, IMHO, should have been the standard oil used in ANY turbocharged engine - If VW used it for the TDI's (diesels), they should have used it for all of their turbocharged engines right from the get-go).
The issue of sludging in turbocharged engines has been around for a long time (case in point, the Chrysler 2.2 Liter 4-cylinder turbocharged engines of the 1980's were notorious for turbocharger failures due to oil sludging and coking in the critical turbocharger bearing area - resulting in excessive wear and their early demise).
The fact of the matter is - the majority of people do not know how to operate a turbocharged vehicle - Here's a couple of guidelines to back up my argument:
1) Before shutting off the engine after a high-speed drive, the engine should idle for about two minutes to allow the oil temperature to stabilize and cool down the turbo's bearing. If I had $10 for every person that didn't do this (about 90% of the turbo-driving public), I would be on the Forbes richest billionaires list.
2) Do not exceed the manufacturer's guidelines for oil changes - if they recommend changing the oil at 5000 mile intervals, get it changed at or before 5000 miles, not 100, 200, or 1000 miles over the interval. Once again, If I had $10...(see item #1).
As for the "street-car racing" set, these individuals seem to be good at installing lowered suspensions, loud exhausts, fancy engine mods, wings, spoilers, etc., but jugding by the amount of "slammed" vehicles on the roads these days, they don't seem to be good at performing basic automotive maintenance. As I cruise by these stranded vehicles driving one of my "unreliable" VW's, I shake my head and say to myself "That car may have broken down, but at least it looks cool..." But I digress....
Bottom line - with any vehicle, you get out of it what you put into it. If people take the time to have the proper maintenance performed on their vehicles on a regular basis, more often than not (save for factory recalls), the vehicle will be reliable.
And that logic applies whether you're driving VW's, Mazdas, Fords, Chevy's, Hondas, Toyotas, Lawn Tractors, etc....
I too drove both the VR 6 and the 1.8T . Found the 1.8 to be a better fit for me and I am completely taken with the driving experience I've had with it. It goes in for oil changes every 3000 miles and is carefully maintained. I am now faced with a dilemna. I currently live in California and will be moving to the East mid-summer. I very much want to take my car, but am getting conflicting advice about how it might fare in the winter. I contend it will be just fine, but certain people here think I'm asking for trouble based upon 17" alloys and sports suspension. My thinking is with appropriate tires/wheels for winter I'll be in good shape. As for other needs for "winterizing" my car, I suspect those would be standard in a cold climate. I'll probably be in either New York or Connecticut. Can/will anyone guide me? I have this habit of becoming very attached to my cars, and don't want to give it up unecessarily. Thank you...
One word of caution - you must be extra alert to the road conditions in the East - because a good sized pothole can wreck a 17" rim in nothing flat if you hit it too fast. I had to replace a 16" BBS rim on my 2003 Wolfsburg 1.8T Jetta for that reason...
Thanks in advance.
Exterior - While parked at home, if you have a garage - keep it in there. If not, buy a Wolf Car Cover - it's a worthwhile investment.
If you live in an area where the roads are heavily salted during the winter, wash the car at the first opportunity (I would opt for the car washes that are heated, and have an undercarriage wash). This is not so much for the body (VW rustproofing is excellent) as it is for preserving your car's finish.
Interior - Vacuum every once in a while and use some sort of (Armor All-type) protectant on the dash, door, and center console (do not use on the steering wheel or foot pedals).
Engine - Oil change every 4000-5000 miles (depending on your driving conditions - if your daily drive is mostly highway, go with the 5000 mile interval; if your commute involves a lot of stop-and-go driving, go with the 4000 mile interval) with VW 502.00 spec (read: synthetic) motor oil. Use premium unleaded fuel ONLY. I usually go for the Amoco (BP) ultimate, Sunoco Ultra, or Shell premium at every 4th filling to keep the fuel system clean - otherwise I use premium (minimum 91 octane) at some of the local gas stations in my area.
Driving habits - A good rule of thumb when driving a turbocharged automobile - Before shutting the engine off immediately after driving at highway speeds is to let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. This is done to allow the engine oil temperature to stabilize and properly cool down the turbocharger bearings while the turbo is winding down. Of course if your driving destination is a couple of minutes from the highway and you drive at slower speeds (25-35 mph) approaching the destination, that will also allow the engine oil temperature to stabilize.
Economy - The 1.8T engine will give you decent fuel economy (upper 20s to 30 mpg) as long as you drive a steady pace. Once you put your foot into it and use the turbo heavily, your mileage will drop to the very low 20's very quickly.