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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Comments
I almost got the Stage 0 because it was so cheap!
Flywheels: Lighter spins up faster but robs torque. It's a tradeoff.
Don't know if you have to move the exhaust out of the way for the B&M shifter. I never modded my Civic HB. But if you have to do anything like that I wouldn't buy that shifter. Get another one. I don't imagine the exhaust would be in the way. I mean what kind of product is that, that you 'd have to reposition your exhaust just to put in a shifter and some linkage? I can see if you were installing a racing tranny or Type-R tranny or something.. But a shifter? I wouldn't buy it.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
My girlfriend was in an accident, and is currently selling her Integra. Does anybody know what the fair price might be?
It's a '90 hatchback GS, 218,000. Runs great, regular service (last time the timing belt was changed was at 180K miles), oil changes every 3K miles, etc.
The only problem is the damage from the accident - the rear left side is pretty damaged, but doesn't appear to affect the susspension. Looks pretty ugly though. Front left is also somewhat damaged - the headlight is brocken, and the bumber misaligned.
Any idea? Any help will be appreciated!
Thanks.
Also, here's a direct link to Edmunds'Used Power shopper, where you'll be directed to some sources where you can place a free online ad. Good luck. ;-)
Pocahontas
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks for your reponse. Your info helped. My girlfriend sold the car yesterday.
Thanks
My car is GSR-01. I have purchased and installed a apexi V-AFC controller for my car as suggestion from the performance shop. I wonder that you guy in here can give to me some suggestion of correction adjusting for this unit. I see no different at horse power after the installation. Any body in here is using this unit? Please help me to know how to use this unit.
Thank you so much for your help....
You 'll get all the technical info you need there from many people who have the same exact unit.
I don't have a VAFC so I couldn't help you. But I do know this: the only way you 'll notice a little more power is if you lower the VTEC crossover point to like 5K or 4500 RPM instead of 6K which is the factory setting. The Apexi V-AFC should allow you to do this. I believe it also allows for fuel pressure adjustment. Again, you will only see power gains if you have an aftermarket Fuel Pump (and/or a bigger throttle body. The V-AFC only really helps if you have mods on the car. In order to see any type of "significant gains" with the V-AFC you must have at least bolt-on mods, like header, exhaust, cold air intake and some minor engine mods, like aftermarket (Type-R will do too) CAM gears and/or cams. If everything is stock on your '01 GSR, the most you 'll get is about 1-2hp out of a VAFC and you won't really notice that, but again the VAFC can help give you the power earlier by getting VTEC to kick in at lower RPM. If you do this you will experience a little better acceleration. I wouldn't go below 4500RPM. Most people set it for 5K and 5500.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thank you for your input in this matter. I'll keep this in mind. The friend of mine replaced timing belt in his honda civic around 90K miles. I think that your suggestion to replace it at 80K sounds good. roc2.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The other guy buys a new Integra like every 2yrs because he travels a lot for his job. His first one a '98 or '99 LS went to 210k before the valves needed to be repaired. Now I think he has a '00 or '01 GSR.
How often do you get a valve clearance adjustment teller? I tried to make an appt. with the dealer because my '99 GSR has 27k hard miles on it (a lot of racing, official racing..) and they refused! They said to give them a call when the car is close to 60k. Now I can't tell them the car is raced 7mos out of the year.. I could insist and bring it in to make them do it, but I 'm afraid that they may not even touch it, and tell me they did it. The problem is that the car has to be really cold when they do it, so they tell you to drop it off the night before, or bring it in really early and come back at the end of the day. You can tell I don't trust dealers..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
My '98 GS-R (now driven daily by my father, who is realizing his own Walter Mitty fantasies) is creeping up on 228K. Damn thing still breathes fire and handles like a slotcar. No valve trouble yet, as I learned from the '96 and had them adjusted every 25K. The 91+ octane helps too, I'll bet.
I now drive a 2001 Prelude 5spd. Picked the car up on 10/15/01 and turned 18,000 miles on it yesterday (that's 6K a month, folks)! The Prelude has longer legs for highway travel, and has much lower NVH levels than the Tegs. The engine is so smooth that I sometimes forget to upshift from 4th to 5th when leaving town. Even in 5th, it revs high -- 4100 RPM @80 MPH. It delivers 26-29MPG, depending on my mood.
It definately gives up some steering response to the GS-R (even after I installed a strut brace), but I guess that's what [non-permissible content removed] OE tires and an extra ~300lbs gets you. This spring I will mount SO3's, which will solve most of the problem.
Yes, I have considered contacting Honda/Acura to tell 'em all about what great cars they make, but my guess is that they already know. I wouldn't mind contributing to a car magazine (paper or cyber), but haven't made any efforts to do so. My driving habits make "long-term" road tests look like a Sunday drive.
re:valves---When you start getting misfires, they're done for. If you start hearing more valve clatter than normal upon start-up, distinct "tickticktickticktick" sounds at warm idle, or a decrease in fuel economy and performance, it's a safe bet they need adjustment. The safest bet is to just have them checked every 25-30K, or once a year if you're doing a bunch of hard driving.
If you're considering this car as a tuner/project vehicle, you might not care much about the current condition of the mechanicals. As a daily driver, you should be very concerned. Either way, you will be spending significant $$ to replace worn components. And never forget that rust is the automotive equivalent of cancer.
I don't know what else to do, and I'm getting very frustrated and upset. Please let me know if you know a way to get out of this situation. Thank you so much.
If he does not budge, make good on your threat and then make it a personal mission to destroy this dealer: write a letter to the editor of this dealer's hometown newspaper, badmouth the dealer online (making sure to forward all comments to the dealer's email), and call the Acura CS DAILY and demand satisfaction.
Warped rotors and a leaking brake master cylinder should have been replaced when the car underwent the "certified" inspection.
I was told by dealer that it is normal with all the Integras and the shift is computerized based on RPM. I wasn't satisfied, and I did a 120 point inspection from certified technician, and he also said the same. I still have doubt...
Can anyone tell, if this really is normal with Integras. It's a certified car with 2yrs' warranty on it.
thanks for reading the whole story and responding
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
As long as you get your Integra's transmission serviced regularly, you should have no problems whatsoever.
If it makes you feel any better, the Civics that share this same tranny shift the exact same way as your car. This was a tendency of all Honda transmissions until the early-90's, and Honda used to take some heat for it by automotive writers who liked smoother part-throttle upshifts.
Honda has since changed their shift programming to provide for smoother operation.
I hope this helps to clear up your concerns.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks for clearing the air. I love driving it. Can't drive it slow . Will keep your advice in mind.
I have a 94 Acura Integra with 138000 miles on it. I bought it second hand from a private party at 70000 mile and have been driven it for 4 years. The car was fine until last year. First the starter failed, then the ignition component, then I have to replace the CV joints and some booth under the car. The the right side front lower ball joint broke later and I have to change and axle Then ABS light is on. Right now when I drive over a bump, two knocking sound will appear from the left side of the car bottom near both wheels. ( One garage could not find anything wrong about it and the other one said I need to change some booths.) Also, the antenna won't retreat all the way down. One the high way, I can hear some rattling sound on the rear end of the car( under the trunk ?). I guess some of the problem is caused by the New England's bad weather. I saw so many posts saying about how good an Integra can be and I am really confused. Because this is my first car, I don't know if they are common problems or not. Anyone can help me?