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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)



  • Sounds like the wires from the battery to the accessories are shorting to parts in the chassis or engine compartment.

    Trace the wire bundles from the battery in the engine bay into the area under the dash and tape up any areas that may be chafing against metal parts. That should help. Knocking on the parts and panels to loosen any pinched wires may help also

    Had the same problem with intermittent electrical shorting which drained the battery. Turned out the car was in a minor accident, denting the door. Wires for the power window motor were pinched between the door panel and internal parts, causing intermittent shorting.
  • mctcmctc Posts: 4
    Ok I got my leak fixed now I can start tuning but the problem I am having is when my engine is cold it runs fine and sounds awesome, but after it warms up it goes to hell and quick it loses power and dies.... I am lost and confused.... any guesses for me to check into???
  • Buy an engine scanner in the internet for about $30.

    Hook it up to the diagnostic port under the dash at the driver's left knee. Find out what parts are not working.

    You can trouble shoot from there.

    Dealer shop would do the same thing. The designs of Toyota's engines are very simple and logical. You should be able to find and fix the root cause.
  • mctcmctc Posts: 4
    do you know where I can find one that will read my car it is an 83 and everyone I have found will not read that old :confuse:
  • Sorry I have no experience with older car.

    Search the internet or ask other people in this forum.

    Good luck and have fun.
  • mctcmctc Posts: 4
    after everything I just did I still cant make it stop knocking. I rebuilt the bottom end where my problem was do you think that now the top end just isnt keeping up with the new bottom? Would there be something else that I can do to fix this problem without spendinding more money that I dont have to rebuild the top end??
  • shalukashaluka Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S and just replaced the clutch at 130K. After putting everything together, the clutch seems to work just fine but there is an issue with the temperature gauge. The temperature rises to normal (half way point) within a few minutes of driving and all of a sudden it shoots to the max and needle keeps blinking at max point (H).

    Gauge would drop back to normal after engine has been turned off and back on. It does not look like a true over heat since an overheating engine cannot cool off say in 1-2 minutes after an engine restart. I have driven about 30 miles now and engine runs fine.

    I did also notice that the coolant reservoir was almost empty after refilling it once when the clutch work was done. The problem persists after refilling the reservoir. Any suggestions?
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    Powered door locks get worn out and need replacement sometimes.

    Problem is likely a broken rotary solenoid inside the door. Dealers sell the complete assembly with the 2 cables for about $250. Order the specific left or right door power door lock assembly.

    1. Remove the plastic door panel:

    Remove the plastic part behind the door lever: 3 snap in tabs, 1 in front 2 on top adn bottom
    Remove 2 plastic caps then 2 screws near the door hinge.
    Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the door panel.
    Remove 1 long screw in the middle of the door handle.
    Remove 2 white plastic snap ins at the rear edge of the door.
    Gently lift up and take out the plastic panel.
    Disconnect the 2 cable ends attached to the door lever before completely pulling the door panel out.

    2. Remove the door solenoid assembly:

    Roll glass window up for better access to inside door panel.
    Undo the black sealant and remove the upper left/right part of the clear plastic sheet for access inside the door.
    Unscrew 3 hex-head screws holding the lock to the door's rear edge
    Unscrew 1 10mm bolt on the middle left door corner holding the solenoid assembly. Do not remove the 10 mm free-rolling nut above it. This nut stays in place.
    Remove the ends of 2 S-shape rods inside the door from the lock assembly. These rods' ends are held in place by small plastic snap-on locks. Unsnap the locks before pulling out the rods' ends from their sockets.
    Now everything is unscrewed, slide the solenoid assembly towards the front of the door and take it out

    3. To assemble the solenoid assembly, simply reverse the process.

    Everything is logically assembled. Do not use too much force. You should not be able to break anything. You should be able to save aprroximately $500 and half day wait doing it yourself. Good luck
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 764
    Shaluka, did you flush the coolant system when you did the clutch? An air bubble may be causing the temperature spike. Gotta get the air out.
  • I know how to work a stick i just dont know at what RPMS is the right time to shift for each gear? like 1 -2 - 3 -4 - 5. i think at 2,500 rpm's i could shift to 2nd gear but i dont know the rest can someone who knows alot about stick help me i dont want to grind my gears and stuff ! i just wanna know wens the right time to shift for each gear thank you!!!! :confuse:
  • tgeentgeen Posts: 20
    toyocelicadude, I have a 2000 GTS, but I'm pretty sure the GT motor is going to feel similar below 6000 rpms. Both engines are 1.8 liters, so there's not a lot of torque to work with, therefore shifting at 2500 will not feel very rewarding. They can easily handle shifts at 3500-4500, without a big hit on fuel economy. Try winding it out a little more, it's not going to break anything.

    As for grinding gears, try a full synthetic gear oil in the transaxle. That made a big difference for me. This is something you can easily do yourself for about $25, check the owner forums on other websites for how-to instructions. Having said that, I'm not totally sold on the Toyota manuals for robustness, but I have over 180,000 miles on my 2000 GTS and only occasional problems with the synchros. The 6 speed seems to dislike fast shifts at high rpms, but for 99% of normal driving, it's been fine. Good luck.
  • jlozierjlozier Posts: 1
    I'm a driver highly interested in the celica. What are some pros and cons that you see in the car?
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 764

    The answer to your question is practice, practice, practice. What you will do is develop a feel for the car under different driving conditions. You will become the expert how you will drive the car.

    Some examples to get you going:

    1) Stopped at a traffic light, going down hill.
    -You can start in 2nd gear, accelerating lightly. You can quickly move to fourth or fifth gear, depending on how steep the hill is.

    2) Starting the car going up a hill.
    - You will keep the car in first gear longer than usual to get the car going, and not skip any gears like you can do going down a hill.

    3) Racing on flat ground
    -You will let the clutch out faster than usual, and give it more gas than usual.

    The things to practice with everything you do - letting the clutch out at different rates, and giving it different amounts of gas.

    I drove home in my new 1993 Integra on the freeway after only having driven a stick around a parking lot. You are in the same boat. Spend time practicing driving. Turn down the radio. Turn off all distractions. Listen to the engine, listen to the tires, smell for a burning clutch, get a feel for driving comfortably with no jerking, and for driving aggressively when all you want is to push the car to its limits. It will take a long time, but be well worth the effort. And obviously, you are interested in becoming a good stick driver.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    I had access of a 911 Turbo for a week. The car was sold new in 2007 at $130K. It now has 3000 miles in the odometer. I did a lot of errands around town and a few long trips with it. Followings are my observations:

    1. The Porsche has a turbo-charged 3.6L flat 6, with 5-speed automatic transmission. RPM goes up to 6700 max. When you drive past 3000 RPM, the turbo charger kicks in and you can feel being pushed back against the seat. At 3000 RPM on 5th gear, the car cruises at about 80 MPH.

    2. The car has much more HP than the Celica GTS. The engine revs up quickly when you step on the accelerator. You can accelerate even in 5th gear. The rear engine is very noisy, but not anywhere as noisy as the Lamborghini Gallardo or Murcielago. The best fun in this car is being able to very quickly zip away from the rest of the traffic at stop signs.

    3. The leather seats are a lot stiffer than all other brands. The stitching on the leather steering wheel cover is so coarse, it hurts my grips in long trips. The paddle shift switches are in front of the steering wheel, the top is up shift, the bottom, down shift. When you steer the column upside down the up/down shift positions are reversed. It's the same in MBZ. Ony Toyota/Lexus has down shift in front and up shift in the back of the steering wheel, regardless where you steer.

    4. The tachometer is central in the instrument cluster. The speedometer is smaller, in the left corner and goes up to 225 MPH. The speeds are marked in small white, closely-spaced numbers. 75 to 100 MPH is represented by a 2/3 inch gap. It's difficult to differentiate if you are cruising at 80 or 90 or 95 MPH to avoid speeding tickets. It does have a digital speed indicator at the bottom of the tachometer. The 5-gear indicators are small , closely-spaced numbers with small red LED, very difficult to see and get used to.

    5. This car is fun zipping around town at low speed, but at high speed, the ride is punishingly harsh, even on the best stretches of freeways. It bounces around a lot even over rminor road bumps. The front end was bopping around so much over bumps that I did not feel I had good control of the car too many times.

    6. The control forces for steering, gas and brake are medium, much softer compared to MBZ sports cars. The car is probably much heavier than the Celica GTS. You can zip around and change lanes quickly but the chassis does not respond as quickly and stably in quick and tight turns like the GTS. The chassis sometimes bops around unpredictably in tight turns or quick lane changes. I did not have much feel for the road even with its very taut suspension. That feel may have to be developed with the car over time.

    7. Tire noise and road noise are high, especially driving over lane divider bumps. Engine noise is high too. This car is fun for short drive, zipping around town, but there would be no fun, almost a punishment, driving anywhere over half hour with it.

    8. In comparison, the Celica GTS is quicker, livelier, smoother, more controllable, quieter and a lot more fun in short and long trips, over most road conditions.
  • traderyintraderyin Posts: 2
    " 8. In comparison, the Celica GTS is quicker, livelier, smoother, more controllable, quieter and a lot more fun in short and long trips, over most road conditions. "

    Thanks for the Apple-to-Apple comparison. I was cross shopping b/w a Porsche 911 Turbo and a used Celica GTS and wonder which one is better for me. ;)
  • conlouconlou Posts: 1
    Thinking of buying a 94 Celica Hatchback in absolutely BEAUTIFUL condition for a new driver in the family...(I've had a Previa since '93 with no problems). Power everything in working condition, wheel & sound upgrades, recent service completed and verified at 215,000 K. (including time belt/water pump/ seals/tuneup). In absolute beautiful condition in and out, but all sources I check show the price way too high. Just wondering if $3500 is way out of line considering this high mileage with times like now when good gas mileage cars are going QUICKLY for big bucks! Just how good and dependable IS this vehicle?
  • lekikalekika Posts: 1
    Basically, our Celica has been sitting in the front drive since who knows when. I really would like to restore it. However, I am in no means capable of doing it myself and need to find someone who specializes in this sort of area. I know it would need tons of work, new clutch, tires, new front headlight (which just probably scrapes the top of what actually needs to be done).

    Who and how do I go about finding someone who would be able to come out and look at my car to give a quote to do the work? Is there a directory of people who do older car restorations? I live in New Jersey, on the shore.

    Thanks so much.

  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 764
    Some cars are coveted, and when the car is aged, dependability is no longer on the map as a practical matter. Something major can die at any time - a broken suspension part, auto tranny, etc. They can probably sell the car for that amount, so who wants it the most, you or someone else?

    I have a friend selling a '92 Legend for about that same amount. Any time anything went wrong, he fixed it. From a distance it looks pristine, and has zero mechanical problems because he always fixed things. However, something little always needs attention. Rust is attacking many areas of the car from the inside out. Tires need checking because the wheels are old, beat up, and leak. Yep, that engine and tranny may run forever. But think about other potential problems.

    These types of cars are perfect for a first time driver. As soon as you buy it, anything can break, you have to accept that.

    Compare this car to other cars selling for a similar price. Sounds like there is some emotional attachment to this car. If you cannot find something else that has a much better reason to buy it, go for the Celica.

  • :cry: What could be causing my car not to start? Currently my starter,battery, alternator, ignition connections grounds are good so what could be the problem could it be a certain relay fuse or car computer brain ? Which one? They have been checked and also my timing belt was checked but it has been difficult trying to determine what is the problem. It seems electrical but I am so confused and I do not want to loose my celica they I have been keeping up with the maintenance promptly. Could someone possibly give me advise on how to go about resolving my celicas starting problem or maybe a part or what can fix my starting problem?
    Thank you, :confuse:
  • Could the distributor cause my celica to not to start?
    What could be causing my car not to start? Currently my starter,battery, alternator, ignition connections grounds are good so what could be the problem could it be a certain relay fuse or which one? They have been checked and also my timing belt was checked but it has been difficult trying to determine what is the problem. It seems electrical but I am so confused and I do not want to loose my celica they I have been keeping up with the maintenance promptly. Could someone possibly give me advise on how to go about resolving my celicas starting problem or maybe a part or what can fix my starting problem?
    Thank you,
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Since I don't know how competent the person is who checked out the areas you mentioned, I don't know whether their conclusions can be trusted. Time and time again, someone has brought a car into my shop and told me that a certain part has been tested and was good; only for me to later find out that the part was faulty. So I've learned to not trust second hand information.

    The most effective way to sort out a problem of this type is to simplify it by narrowing down the probabilities into the smallest possible number of areas. The first thing to do is to find out what the symptoms are: Does the engine crank at a normal speed when you turn the key to the start position. You probably remember what it used to sound like when you started it, when it previously ran normally. Does the starter still sound like it usually did; or does the motor now turn over very slowly or barely at all, or does the starter not make any sound when you turn the key, except for a click or a series of clicks?

    If it turns over at a normal speed, then you can assume the battery and the starter are OK. But if the starter does not sound like it used to, or does not make any sound at all, then you need to first thoroughly test the battery. The battery can only be properly checked with a load tester, which draws a similar amount of power as the starter does. Just using a voltmeter or a hydrometer will, in some cases, give misleading results. Some auto parts stores will test batteries for free. Another way to test the battery is to turn on the headlights, and have someone watch them while you try to start the engine. If the headlights get substantially dimmer when you crank the engine, then the battery is weak. If the lights stay bright, but the starter does not make any sound when you try to start the motor, then I would suspect a defective starter.

    If the starter works normally, then the next thing to do is to determine whether you have a spark or a fuel supply problem. This is done by lifting one of the spark plug wires off of its spark plug, and connecting it to a clean spark plug that is not in the engine. Place the threaded part of that plug so that it presses against the metal of the engine, and watch it carefully while someone cranks the starter. If you need to hold the plug in place; use a wooden stick, or a plastic rod. WHILE YOU CRANK THE STARTER, DO NOT TOUCH THE SPARK PLUG OR PLUG WIRE WITH YOUR BODY OR WITH ANYTHING MADE OF METAL. You could get a very painful shock from the electricity. If the ignition system and distributor is working properly, there should be a series of blue sparks which jump between the spark plug electrodes while the engine is being cranked. If there is only a very weak spark, or no spark at the plug, then this is usually caused by a problem in the distributor cap, the rotor, the coil, the igniter, or the ignition pick up unit. In rare cases, the problem might be in the wiring harness, or in the computer. These items should be tested and confirmed by someone who knows how to test these parts.

    If there is a strong spark at the plug, then the problem is most likely coming from the engine not getting any (or enough) fuel. This can be confirmed by disconnecting the air intake hose from the throttle body, and spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while the accelerator is held down. It is valuable insurance to keep a fire extinguisher nearby, while you use starting fluid. The engine could backfire. After spraying the starting fluid, try to start the engine. If it fires at all, or now tries to start, that means it wasn't starting because you have a fuel supply problem. That could be caused by a clogged fuel filter, or a fuel pump which has stopped working.

    These tests should give you enough information to get a clearer sense of where, and possibly what, the problem is. Feel free to write again, if you need further guidance. Good luck to you. Celicas are great cars!

  • :cry: :sick: I don't know whether their conclusions can be trusted because they did not figure out the problem but kept on assuming that it may be the celicas computer, distributor. His judgement I can not trust. But after your intellectual experienced response I trust your judgement. With my 1994 Celica going dead I have been having restless nights with nightmares.Not withstanding its age( and miles 145,540). And I have always taken care of preventive care of my Celica. It is very heartwrenching . I have not wasted anytime and I spoke to a 23 yr Toyota experience Master Tech Mechanic and he told me about the headlight test to do. I made sure the connections to the battery and the engine grounds are good. I made sure the battery is fully charged. I turned the headlights on and try to start the car. The lights stayed brite except when I attempted to start the car the lights dimmed way down. That mechanic told me about the contacts in the starter are known to go bad. Also my Toyota advisor told me about the need for a new starter(mind you my current starter is over 8 years old) So I have to think positive about it. Well today Wed. 10:00am A toytota recommeded tow truck company will be taking the celica to the toyota dealer for repair. I will keep you informed of my situation. I am hoping that it may be a faulty starter.
    I greatly appreciate your helpful inforrmation which helped me sleep well last night.
    Thank you,
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It certainly could be a faulty starter; but since the lights dimmed way down, the type of starter problem that would cause that is not bad contacts; instead, it would be a short in the starter motor armature. But the remedy is the same in either case; to replace the starter. However, there is another thing that would make the lights dim way down, and that is if the battery has aged to the point that it no longer has sufficient energy capacity to drive the starter motor. If this is the problem, and they replace your starter without first testing the battery with a load tester; the new starter will not fix the problem, and they will have wasted your money. Any shop qualified to do electrical diagnosis would load test the battery BEFORE replacing the starter.
  • zaken I just recieved a call from my Toyota advisor and he informed me about the cause of my celica not turning on what because of my distributor melted. I guess because of the age my celica has 14 years he stated. And he even guaranteed that then my celica would turn on. I did ask him about my starter,alternator and those were good except after they tested my battery it needed to be replaced also? I need to call my toyota advisor back to order the parts. :confuse: Zaken should I go ahead and parts ordered for my repair? I am just worried/stressed out which is not healthy for my MS.

    I would like to thank you in advance for your cooperation.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Have them ONLY replace the battery, then go over there, be sure there is a NEW battery in it, and try to start the car. If it now starts, get out of there and don't give them any more business. I've never heard of a distributor melting. That sounds like nonsense to me. The distributor is made of metal and plastic. The metal won't melt, unless there has been a fire in your engine compartment. The only real possibility is that one or more plastic parts in the distributor have melted. If that has happened, those parts can be replaced individually; without having to replace the entire distributor.

  • Thanks for the information on how to go about getting a new battery. I will keep what you let me know in mind. And if the plastic parts have melted and keep not allowing my celica to start I will get another mechanic to replace the plastic parts individually.
    Joel I would like to thank you in advance for your prompt and accurate information.
    Have a good Day,
  • Instead or replacing the battery, try jump starting with the battery from another car.

    If the symtoms remain the same then the battery is OK. Dont have to replace it.

    If the engine cranks but will not start, then the distributor may be broken or wet, or the cap may be worn out or broken. Just open up the cap can clean all contacts. If there are any cracks on the cap, the engine will not start.
  • :sick: My distributor inside plastic is melted/cracked not withstanding its age( 1994 with milage:145,540) so of course will not start :cry: . I might is well replace the distributor so my celica will start. Once I get the new distributor hopefully my celica 1994. I will keep you informed.
  • One more potential ignition killer: the switch at the automatic transmission lever. This switch lets the starter crank and engage only when the lever is set at P or N. If this switch is misadjusted or dead, the starter will not crank.

    Leave the stick in P or N and try to wiggle it around while starting, sometimes it will move the switch enough to start the starter.

    The same problem happened with a BMW 740 which left the owner desparate and destittute, replacing just about all modules in the ignition circuit without fixing the problem. He adjusted the transmission switch and all is fine.

    There are lots of horror stories involving BMW's electrical systems. Toyota has much better electrical systems designs, mateirials and workmanship.
  • :confuse: Well as for my celica which the master tech ran it today after the new distributor was installed he parked it and when he tried to start again the car it would not turn back on....AH!! The advisor told me that the master tech has to check other electrical wiring? Now I wonder what it is, another electrical part? I am hoping it made be fixed. I will just sit here and wait I only wonder if it would start. Thanks for listening. Have a Wonderful Weekend & Take Care:)
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