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Mazda 323



  • jjazzjjazz Posts: 7
    It took me several weekends to fix my temperture problem in my 1988 323 Mazda. I had to disassemble the whole dasboard to get to the heater element and I applied air to both input and output to check for blockage. Replaced the thermostat, gasket, and radiator cap. The temperture gauge is operating normally and the heater is blown warm air again. I believe there was air in the system, in the engine coolant system. Thanks to Malcolm.

    Now I have the gasoline usage issue. When I purchased this vehicle it use to go approximately 400 miles on a tank full, and now its about 200 miles or less. I suspect he timing chain is causing this problem, but I need some info from readers out there. When I last checked my timing it was off so I readjusted it. I also checked the RPM, which was fine. Thanks. :confuse:
  • neannean Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1988 Mazda 323 & had to have a new water pump & timing belt put on as the water pump starting leaking a few days after I bought it. A new radiator was installed also with some new hoses. The car now idles down & runs really rough at stops or sometimes take offs. Sometimes it seems the whole car will shake during these times. I'm not familiar with this auto & I don't have a trouble shooting book for it yet. Any ideas? Wondering if could be a little out of time since new belt was put on, but thought I would have trouble starting car if this were the case. Thanks.
  • I have a 87 Mazda 323 with 125K miles and it runs upon first start for 5 minutes then just cuts out like I turned off the key. I can start it again a few times for several seconds but then it just dies and wont run for about 10 minutes. I found that I dont have spark during that time so I replaced the spendy distributor and coil but still no luck.
    I will say that the thermostate is sticking but I wouldnt think that would kill the spark. Any suggestions?
  • Hi
    Bought a remote cenrtal locking kit for my wife's car.
    Having trouble fitting it to the standard central locking.
    How do I get to the central locking relay? Where is it?
    Anyone know which wires do what?
  • pike1pike1 Posts: 1
    Hey all..

    Just bought a 1991 Mazda 323 in great shape and agree its a great car for commuting in the city. But a quick question, each car is different so with only a spedometer to go by what is the optimum speeds for shifting into 1-5 gear? Probably a stupid question but humour me.
  • Eletrical problem the car has been haveing. About 2 or 3 weeks ago the car left me stranded in the rain died as I was driveing home. Ok I am some what knowledgable I pulled stock alt and had it tested bad so I replaced the alternator with one from a slavage yard. Drove the car it ran fine till it rained again. Left me straned again. Took car to service station had them do a eletrical anilasis and bad alternator. No problem Iam only out 35 bucks. I replace this one with a new referbed unit from parts supplier. Fully chared battery and armed with my volt meter test new alt. This alt under load was only puting out 9 to 10 volts not enough to run the car let alone charge the battery. Bad alt. Took it back got a replacement. Had alt test at store before I installed it. Fully charged battery alt was puting out 13.5 volts under full load at idle. Drove the car had my wife take it for a spin to an apointment she had no problem. This morning drove the car to work. About 1/4 to work car eletrical started to flicker one and off same simptions it had at first. Turned around and managed to get the car home when it died in my drive way. Battery completly dead. Now I have had the stock alt, 1 salavage yard alt, one bad referbed unit and one that was tested to be good. What is causeing this problem any body know? Is there something to do with the rain? Someting geting wet I dont know about that is suposed to stay dry? does the car have a seperate voltage regulator? Any help would be apriciated. I had a service manual but it is mia so I will be geting a new one. Help I am at the end of my rope and frustrated with the car. I put 1 new clutch, new transmission, 4 new tires, new breaks new muffler and catlitic converter to get this car back on the road 2200 later and I still can not drive the car.
  • Hi. I just got an 87 323, and I want to fix it up. I'm wondering if anyone knows how big of an engine will fit in it? Please help, I've been trying to find out for months!!!

  • Hello, I have a 1988 mazda 323 DX and recently i had to replace the Alternator and now it will hold a charge but now it runs for 20 mins or less then just quits.. but the next day it wil fire right up.. im baffled ive gone through the fuel filters lines and pumps no blockage or problems any were .. if any one could explain wats wrong it would be great..

  • tim51068tim51068 Posts: 1
    My 91 323 has been a helluva car; currently at 205k mi. It has been acting as though it's not getting fuel of late and I figured the cheapest thing I could try was the fuel filter, which I know is way past due. Anyone know what diameter rubber line is correct for this? I bought 5/16" and it is hard to push on w/the whole assembly OFF the car. It's sure to be nearly impossible to get on the steel line under the thing. Any advice greatly appreciated.
  • I just picked up an automatic 1993 323.
    The spedo cable is broken and I am trying to find a replacement. Any place that I should look?
    I also have the flashing "Hold" light. What does that mean and how do I correct it?
    It has 111000 miles and has a little of a rough idle.
    Any recomemdations as to what to look for to correct the idle and hold light?
  • i have a 89 323 I have replaced the altenator about 9 times in the past 6 or 7 years if you can figure it out let me know thanks
  • tinartinar Posts: 1
    I am new to this site. ;) I have 83 mazda 323 DX Hatchback..sitting for over a year. We are going to attempt repair..owner says main problem is electrical. i have been online searching for any and all info re car and this site got the closest but geez...somewhat involved to navigate. chiltons site does not even sell book for 323' appreciate any and all feedback
  • goldfngergoldfnger Posts: 2

    Does anyone have the official suggested tightening torque for a 2001 Mazda 323f 1.6 Petrol (new shape):

    Engine oil drain plug
    Spark plug
    Wheel Nuts

  • goldfngergoldfnger Posts: 2

    I've got a 2001 Mazda 323f 1.6 Petrol (new shape) (110, 000 miles). When I start it up from cold I get a loud clunk. It makes the noise sometimes as soon as it starts up or sometimes up to 2 minutes after its started, while I'm driving. I cant find anything loose and its fine all day long till! Its very perplexing.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • snappymoldsnappymold Posts: 4
    My 1993 Mazda 323 has been great for me. Since I first bought the thing when it heats up sometimes from a dead stop it "sputters" as it is accelerating out of first gear. Sometimes it was even sputtering right into third gear. This only seems to happen when it is hot and the revs are low. Once the sputter stops it runs normallly again until the next stop light. Finally this weekend after a soggy camp trip it just died right there and after a few minutes wait it started ran for a few seconds and stalled out again this time for good. What is wrong!! I suspect a fuel pump or filter. The damn thing is still at the campground parking lot so I need some help fast. It turns over fine just doesn't fire. I believe although I did not look it is fuel injected so.....could also be the control for that or......?>
    Please Help :cry:
  • zelsjzelsj Posts: 1
    Has anyone removed the thermostat from a 323 1.6L and was it hard to get out -
  • kcchffankcchffan Posts: 2
    I am having the same troubles, however mine started acting this way after a cooling system leak. any clues or ideas?

    Cat converter? is there a fuel computer? fuel sensor?

    No clue. Please help :confuse:
  • I believe that the ignition module is probably not to blame. I replaced ignitor and engine coil with no success. I believe my problem is the pcm has gone for a [non-permissible content removed]. I bought a new chevy (much easier to work on) instead of replacing the distributor and than probably the pcm anyways. Have you done a diagnostic on it yet? Open the diagnostic box under the hood and jumper the GRN and #10 slots. Than turn off all lights, radio wiper etc. Turn on the key and watch your engiune light. it will flash a series of flashes. This will be a code for a malfunction. You need to determine if you have a spark and if you have power to the coil etc. if you have spark it may be a fuel system malfunction or distributor cap or distributor. Test at the plug wires first. If no spark than you have some form of sensor not sending a signal to the pcm. You may have also disconnected or shorted a wire while fixing your coolant leak. Very first of all chack to make sure your rad is topped up.
  • kcchffankcchffan Posts: 2
    OK, here is the latest, It starts and runs ... if you stomp on the gas the engine will sputter and begin to "backfire" from the air flow meter. :mad:

    Being a resident "shade tree mechanic" I like doing things the hard way. Dramatic pause and now starts the stupid questions..where is the diagnostic box? there are two sets of wire harnesses under the wiper motor, each set has a green wire. :confuse:

    I have check the wires in the area I was dorking around, I saw nothing out of the ordinary. Both the coolant resivour and the radiator are topped off. I am open for sugestions :sick:
  • desireebdesireeb Posts: 1
    I've had my 89 Mazda 323 for about 5 years now and it has about 140K. The transmission is going and I’m not sure if it’s worth fixing. I have to check around more regarding price and want to get the entire car checked out to see what else could need work before I make any decisions, but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts. I love my car and I’m still in school, so buying a brand new car would be out of the questions, so my options are either fix what I have or look for another used car…
  • jdog1979jdog1979 Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 Mazda 323. Same thing happened to me. I replaced the oxygen sensor and the engine coolant temperature sensor and the car runs like new, with 190,000 miles on it. Hope this helps.
  • sschmidsschmid Posts: 28
    92 Mazda 323 gas problem. When I fill it it reads full but after about 1/4 tank used it dpos to empty. I am assuming it is the fuel tank sending unit but I have searched on line and cannot find one. Any ideas?? Is this the part I need and where to find one??
  • basiajbasiaj Posts: 1
    A part of my car key remains in my hatch back door lock. It is Mazda 323. Any suggestion?
  • 13131313 Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I'm trying to buy a manual for my 1989 323. But it seems that both Chilton & Haynes started with the 1990. Are the 1989 models that much different than the 1990+ models?

    I own the 1989 Mazda 323 SE 4 Dr Sedan, it has less than 80,000 miles on it so it's barely broken in. :shades:

    However, the little things that need replacing are getting harder to find so I may have to try using parts from another year, etc. She's a good little donkey and I want to keep her, and if I can fix everything then she's getting a new paint job too!

    Thanks in advance,
  • nhjoenhjoe Posts: 1
    Electronic fuel pump with float is located in the gas tank... Residual dirt / gunk forms after many years, inhibiting the float from functioning properly... Quick fix? Try a pot holed road at a fast speed... only kidding.
    Drain tank... completely... Drop tank, pull fuel pump assy, replace gasket and float device - R&R watch for dirt.
    Good luck ...
  • sschmidsschmid Posts: 28
    Actually according to the book the Fuel pump can be removed from the top of the tank under the back seat. The sending unit as well is right there. I was thinking sending unit as it works to 3/4th tank and then drops like a rock. Since I can't find even a used sending unit i guess cleaning the float would be worth a try. Thanks Susan
  • Hi All,

    I've had this car now for about 3 years and have pretty much gotten the whole 775 dollars out of it that I paid.

    Here's the deal;
    About two weeks ago I noticed the battery was leaking and steaming acid pretty bad. 4 or 5 days went by (while still having same problem) I attempted to start my car after work, it wouldn't start. Finally, had it jumped, made it about 1 city block and wham!, no lights!

    Figured out the ECU over charged that battery, which in turn over charged the Alternator... Well, I replaced all 3, and still, I have no lights.

    No headlights, brake lights, turn signals, dash lights, tail lights, radio.. nothing!

    I still have wipers, and heater is working just fine.


    Thanks so much in advance!
    Tammi :cry: :lemon:
  • hello all,
    I own a 1992 Mazda 323 Hatchback with a 1.6 ltr FI. It's got 172,000kms on the clock (approx. 107,000 miles).
    When I turn left I sometimes hear a thumping from the front passenger side corner. I'm thinking this might be a ball joint or tie rod end but I'm not sure. The car steers fine at low and high speed, doesn't pull in any direction, there's no vibration or wobble or anything like that.
    Is this thumping just my imagination or am I hearing the early stages of a problem? Is there any simple way to check?
  • Hey Baz,

    If I were you I'd have the CV joints checked. Mine did the same thing when they needed replaced. Now, it's doing it again.. I need the other side replaced. lol

    I'm not sure what you'll pay, but, I paid about 275 to have mine done labor included.

    Good luck!

    Oh, and I finally found out the problem to my question.
    Take care,
    Tammi :shades:
  • Hello,

    My son has a 88 Mazda 323 and the front driver's window is stuck. My husband says he can fix it if he had a specs for the door or instructions how to fix it. I'd like to know if someone could scan them and send them to me.

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