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Comments
-Greg
We have 2100 miles on the Bean so thought I would check in. Everything great so far, with the exception of the squeeking brakes, and they only do that backing out of the garage. Never hear them again during the rest of the day. I also am noticing the slight surge of the engine (maybe 25 to 50 rpms) when I am sitting in drive with foot on the brake. I am thinking this may be the A/C compressor cycling on and increasing demand on engine but that's just a guess.
The problem I solved is with the day/night mirror interfering with the sun shade. The mirror not only articulates on a ball but the whole mirror moves up and down. Move it down a half inch and viola, Problem solved. That info might be in the manual but I just discovered it by accident while cleaning the inside of the windshield.
As I said earlier we are quite pleased with the car overall. After 2k miles I am beginning to really appreciate the H6. When I test drove it I was not that impressed with the difference between the H4 and H6 but after daily driving for three weeks I am becoming more and more sold on the 6.
Oh one other thing that might be of interest. Our Costco here in Astoria, Or. sells a wax/cleaner by the name of Zymol ( made in Germany) which I have used and am very imressed with the way it applies and buffs off (and it smells good to :-) Can't vouch for the absolute long term quality of the stuff but it may compare favorably to Klasse and the price is right ($15 for two 16oz bottles)
My dealer assured me today the there is absolutely no recall planned for the Firestone tires on the OB. The tire has nothing to do with the Wilderness truck tire. Subaru required a RWL and the tire was black. So unfortunately Firestone picked "wilderness" for the RWL word. They could have picked "X-track zippity doo" and no one would have given it a thought.
So for now I would rate it as one sweet machine. Only nine years and 11 months to go and it beats the Accord wagon.
Guy
bit
I think Kurt Cobaine was from Seattle. All I can remember is what was in the papers. Seem to remember he was a doper who snuffed himself. Seems that trail often leads to the same destination.
Guy
I'm wondering: how the Saturns handle in snow/rain, etc., if anyone out there has experience in both, and thoughts on relative merits between these and old volvos with high mileage. I'm most concerned about safety, then handling in inclement weather, and then mileage.
Thanks!
As noted previously, Subarus are solid. I was rear ended for the second time this weekend with no damage to the Outback and kids fine in rear seats (one got a tiny scrape from the harness and the other's bear took a nose dive).
Outbacks are strange; they are not a car which immediately appeals but get better and better the longer you own them, particularly after driving in marginal conditions. The worse the road, the better the experience. I continue to be amazed at just how good mine is.
Try hiring one for a week and see what you think.
Cheers
Graham
I had a very unfortunate experience with my 1995 Legacy wagon (L wagon, 5speed, AWD, ABS), and I thought that I would post it to see if anyone else has had similar trouble. At 91,000 miles I took it into the dealer for the specified 90k service. I had been noticing a rattling / grinding noise whenever the car was in gear, or in neutral when the clutch was engaged (out). This noise had gotten worse over the course of several thousand miles, to the point that people who rode in the car were commenting on it. I asked the dealer to look into this noise, and advise me whether it was serious and how much it would cost to correct it.
Well, to make a long story short it turned out to be the transmission. The formal diagnosis was that there were one or more internal bearings in the transmission that had failed. This was not good news. The dealer quoted me $6000 for a new transmission or $3500 for a rebuild one. When pressed, they said that I could get a used transmission (from a wreck) installed for $1000. I took the car for a second opinion at a "reputable" transmission shop and they quoted me $2000 to repair my transmission.
I bought the Subaru initially because of the promise of great reliability. I fully intended to keep this car another 5 years and run it up to 200k miles. I have previously owned both a Chevy and a Ford, and the Subaru was much more reliable (fewer trips to the dealer) than either of the two domestics. Regrettably, this experience really soured me on the car. Rather than put $2000 into it, I traded it. The dealer put a used transmission into it and wholesaled the car. I'm sure it now lives in a land far away.
Has anyone out there heard of such a premature transmission failure? I find this kind of failure to be completely unacceptable for any car, even at 91k miles. I will admit that I drove the car hard, used it to haul stuff that probably was better left to trucks, and that the last 30k miles was mostly in town driving. But these things ought to be able to take it without loosing transmissions.
I will be interested to hear of any perspectives or other stories.
I just did an oil change on the OB wagon this weekend, and i found that the sheild that covers the bottom of the engine bay was cracked and, quite honestly, not worth putting back on after the oil change. My question, however, is this - how important is this shield? What is its purpose? TIA.
Subyaudidue - My thinking on the shield is this: Why would Subaru pay to have that part there if they didn't need it? It is probably there to keep the engine dry and possibly wind noise. Just my 2 pennies.
To all: Just purchased some parts from Subaruparts.com (hood deflector, oil filter, etc). Good prices, nice site. Lets see when they arrive. Thanks all for the tip.
-Greg
-Greg
The transmission on my 92 Legacy siezed up one bitterly cold day in 93 (yup, only about 10k miles on it). The dealer I was using at the time was slow to accomodate me, but eventually came around when I got vocal on the sales floor (always a motivator). Anyway, the problem I had was allegedly "unique". Subaru's investigation identified some minor glitch in the design of the rear seals which they ultimately corrected with a nationwide recall. As for my own car, SOA shipped a new transmission overnight (or so my dealer said), and I was back on the road within ten days. Since then, not a problem (excepting a blown ignition module, rattling heat shields, and the like). My point? Well, maybe yours was another "unique" case. I really fumed for a while with mine and bad-mouthed Subaru for the next year, but when it was time to trade in the ever-problematic Honda Civic, my research led me straight back to Subaru. My wife and I are likely to sell our trusted (but not rusted) Legacy in the next week or two, and will unquestionably replace it with another Sube: just not sure which one....Forester L....RS....WRX (nah, can't afford the tickets).
David
I have a 2000OB and have just reached the 30,000mi mark. The air filter wasn't available at the local parts store. The employee said it was only available at the dealer. 1) any recommendations on where to get a factory filter- Tacoma Subaru looks like they are off line these days. In the past there was some gal that was mentioned in this chat room several times before (Qsubaru??). 2) Anyone with a K&N filter that has an opinion.? Is it worth it? Where do I get one? 3) Is there a Chilton's-type manual for 2000OB? Where can I get one?
Thanks,
david35
bit
-Greg
I have a 2000OB and have just reached the 30,000mi mark. The air filter wasn't available at the local parts store. The employee said it was only available at the dealer. 1) any recommendations on where to get a factory filter- Tacoma Subaru looks like they are off line these days. In the past there was some gal that was mentioned in this chat room several times before (Qsubaru??). 2) Anyone with a K&N filter that has an opinion.? Is it worth it? Where do I get one? 3) Is there a Chilton's-type manual for 2000OB? Where can I get one?
Thanks,
david35
That engine undercover is there to keep the engine bay dry and clean. It's also there to make oil changes a pain in the back! ;-)
David: 91k is a lot of miles, and while trannies usually last a lot longer, you did say you worked it pretty hard. My neighbor sells carpets and always carries a full load in his minivans, and he's never had one past 88k miles (out of 3 so far).
Ramona: have you looked at the new Legacy L? You can get a new one for around $19k, and they come with a 5 year powertrain warranty. They still have ABS and AWD, plus all the power stuff, and represent a good value, if you ask me.
Also, the new Impreza TS wagon is a little smaller but compares favorably to the Saturn wagon, especially in colder climates.
-juice
Thanks.
Re the choice among Subie/Saturn/Volvo: Saturns seem to garner the same kind of owner loyalty that Subies do, so I won't speak poorly of them here - although I *will* *strongly* recommend a Subie over a Saturn. Volvos, and Swedish cars in general in my experience, have far and away the highest repair bills of any cars in America; prices for parts are an absolute outrage. (I guess someone has to pay for all that socialism and all those 8-week vacations.)
Regards,
-wdb
Thanks, Becky
A dimmer is a simple device and small, I'm sure one could be cobbled together, try checking the electronics magazines or search the web. But you would have to rewire the switch(es) because right now they probably just connect and disconnect the ground to the light. What you want to do is send a signal to the dimmer, which would need 12V and ground on it all the time, and this is more complicated. Not worth the trouble in my opinion.
Subiaudidude - engine shield:
As someone said it does keep the engine bay cleaner but I suspect the main reason is is to aid airflow under the car and improve fuel economy. This also improves cashflow into Subaru's coffers, which clean engine bays don't.
Re the hood deflector:
I haven't got one because with my previous cars I've never experienced paint chipping off the hood. But I do have some tough stick-on plastic headlamp/foglamp protectors that came from an outfit in Texas. They are hard to fit but once on are invisible. The company also makes hood protector sheets. But I'm damned if I can remember their name at the moment. They do have a web site and if you go back in this list to about July/Aug/Sep of 2000 or so you'll find references to them, 'cos that's where I heard about them and I bought mine in September.
-Greg
http://www.stoneguard.com/sgcontent/default.asp
bit
Speaking with a salesman back in 2000 he told me that the undergaurd was part of the engine redesign. They switch from a DOHC to a SOHC in order to get more torque in the low end of the power band. In additon they put all that plastic crap on top of the engine to funnel in air (the ultimate poor mans turbo). The purpose of the bottom gaurds is to reduce the low pressue pull that would suck air down the engine bay into the bottom of the car. In this way they build more air pressure going into the engine air scoop.
I don't know how much difference it makes but I would be inclined to leave it on. If its cracked I wouldn't bother fixing it with more than slapping on some duct tape.
Now what I want to know is this.
I just got a 2001 VDC. On top of the engine is a big old sheet of plastic which more or less prevents you from accessing any of the components (alternator, PCV valve, ECM module, throttle etc). Then on the sides of the engine (where you would access the spark plugs on the old 2.5L) they have some stamped sheet metal shielding. I am wondering what the deal is on this? Dirt protection (nothing is going to HIT those compenents inside the engine bay)? To discourage you from attempting your own repairs? An excuse to charge more for a repair (all that time taking covers on and off)?
Actually I noticed this same phenomeon (plastic covers preventing you from getting at the juicy parts and accessories on the engine) on a Passat and a Volvo V70. the passat had it the worst. EVERYTHING was covered up except for fluid ports and air filter box. I could see in this extreme that it might make fluid maintenance easier for the mechanically challanged but the subies cover doesn't hide many other interesting parts.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
-Greg
-Brian
I've never had a vinyl cover, partially because of the trouble they can cause the paint underneath... buffeting at high speeds can rub & scratch the paint. I also understand that moisture hiding underneath is a problem. Sounds like the plastic deflector is a lot less labor-intensive to own & does about the same job. IMHO.
Cheers!
Paul
Sorry to be a bit negative, but what is with the big ugly plastic deflector for the 00 and 01 models. The deflector for the previous models added to the overall looks of the vehicle IMHO. I held the new one to the front of my 2 k white birch OB and decided to just buy an extra bottle of touch-up paint.
Cheers, Tom
Blame the flat rate system of charging for labour to for this, the more jobs a mechanic gets in and out in a day the more money he makes, there is no time to muck around with a torque wrench on wheels so grab an impact wrench and literally run around the vehicle tightening the lug nuts a few weeks later you usually have warped rotors and usually no comeback but because it is very hard to prove them liable.
They usually can come up with a hundred reasons why your rotors are warped and none directly linked to them.
Cheers Pat. (Ps they probably pulled the wheels when they were doing your pre delivery inspection this would explain how come the wheels would get tightened with an impact wrench on a new car)
bit
-Brian
Very cool, I use it OFTEN. It has a long shaft so it also gives plenty of leverage (good to remove those stubborns bolts in the first place).
Alloys take about 70 lb-ft, steelies about 75.
-juice
After pulling off the tire I got a little caliper gauge and confirmed there was a high spot. Went out and got new rotors, replaced them and checked it again. Same problem. Pulled the rotors off and discovered that the HUB underneath was out of tolerance right around one of the bolts. Some grease monkey with an impact wrench had overtorqued the wheel and bent the hub.
It took two hours with a rigged up angle grinder to get that out. But hey, grease monkey saved 15 seconds!
Now I do all my tire work as far as changing and rotating. If I need a new tire I bring the whole wheel in and have them change it out and balance it. If I need all new tires I space it out over a few visits (having an extra full size spare helps, with it and the doughnut you can get it in 2 trips).
If the grease monkeys MUST work on my car I watch them like a hawk, don't let them get anywhere near my car with a impact wrench and insist that they check the final product by trying to losen the nut with a torque wrench set to 72ft/lbs.
It is a REAL pain to have to go through all this but the alternative sucks too.
1/2 in. square drive wrench measures 20 to 150 ft. lb. in 1 ft. lb. increments. Superior internal mechanisms reduce friction and provide accurate and consistent measurements. Micrometer-type scales stamped into housing show torque settings in both English and metric units. Accurate to 4 percent on clockwise or right-handed reading greater than or equal to 20 percent of capacity. Larger ergonomic handle easily turns to set torque. 90 day limited warranty.
Sears Item #: 00944595000
Mfr. Model #: 44595
bit
Cheers!
Paul
Juice; how do you come by the torque figures for alloy wheels? Would all alloys be about the same? After all, there's cheap alloys and expensive ones and I presume the actual alloy they are made of is not necessarily the same.
The torque specs I gave are for Subaru's wheels, but I believe they are pretty similar for other manufacturers.
-juice
I'm trying to decide if the increased noise is worth the slight increase in HP (if any). Any thoughts?
Tim
PS. I really enjoy this board! There's some really knowledgeable and caring people here!
Donna - Congrats on your Bean. Hope your enjoying it as much as I'm enjoying mine (not a bean though).
-Greg
Factory Subie snorkels not only kill the intake noise, they also supposedly improve low end torque. By putting a K&N filter on you may have traded low-end torque for a bit more schwup at the high end. It is however certain that you made a tradeoff; after all, everything is a compromise!
Regards,
-wdb
Do check your gas cap...un-screw it and screw it back it till it clicks a few times. Sorry to hear you are having problems...my bean just turned 4k miles a couple of days ago and it just now feels like it is nicely broken in. Hope yours works out to be something trivial, like the gas cap.
Tim:
What francophile says is true, you do loose low end torque with less intake restriction. You only get the true top end gains of a free-er flowing intake if you also free up the exhaust. The gains will all be in the top end, though. I personally prefer the lower get up and go. BTW, did you replace just the filter in the stock housing or did you put in an aftermarket intake system as well?
-r
-juice
Questions:
1. What's the difference between a "viscous limited-slip differential" (OB) and a "viscous coupling locking center differential" (Legacy) ? Is one significantly better than the other?
2. What's a "rear differential protector" and what are the consequences of not buying it? Since I drive on a lot of dirt roads the word "protector" seems significant.
3. For the repeat Subaru buyers on this board, is there anything about 1997-98-99 wagon models that I should watch out for? Any repair/maintenance issues that I should be aware of?
4. When the posts talk about "float" with respect to tires and tire pressure and handling, what does that mean? Is this sluggish response on corners, or bad-weather handling problems, or something else?
One more thing: does the rear seat in these older wagons fold down to expand the cargo space ?
Thanks for the words of wisdom on the Check Engine light which I would never have thought about prior to letting panic set in, and about early rotor wear. Thanks also for all the info on tires, tire pressure and alignment. Take comfort in the fact that the new Volvos are ENGINEERED to be extremely sensitive to balance and alignment, much to the irritation of many customers (says my son the Volvo mechanic), who pay a pretty penny to correct these probems as they regularly occur. Volvo has forgotten that there may be computer-aided-design justification for these constraints, but computers don't pay for the consequences.
Elizabeth
Thanks for the input
Tim
The "viscous coupling locking center differential" (all manual transmission Subarus) send power to either the front wheels or the rear wheels. This occurs when slippage is sensed, under power or under braking (weight transfer). Under heavy braking, more weight is shifted to the front of the vehicle, when that happens Subaru sends more power to those wheels. Conversely, under heavy acceleration, the weight shifts rearward, again with the power shifting to those wheels.
With automatic Subarus, an electronic/computer-controlled coupling replaces the viscous center coupling. It does the same thing in terms of power transfer.
Also, all manual transmission Subarus normally have a 50/50 power split between the front and rear wheels. Again, that is constantly changing as the driving conditions dictate. With automatic transmission Subarus (except the new Outback VDC and Impreza WRX) the power split is normally 90/10, front-to-rear.
2. If you do a lot of gravel road driving the rear differential would be a good idea. It's a "skid plate" for extra protection.
3. None that I'm aware of.
4. I'm not sure. It has been reported many times that Subarus are quite sensitive to having the correct tire pressure.
Yes, the rear seat does fold in older wagons.
Bob