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Comments
Sounds like a good sales pitch. The Legacy is larger on the interior. Rear seat space, in particular is wider and more legroom. Cargo space is also larger overall.
Give him a prize though. What stock is he trying to shift?
Cheers
Graham
Test drive both and go with the one you like best.
I have the Outback with 2 small kids. It works fairly well for weekend trips. However kid #3 may push us over the edge and back into a bigger SUV or the mini van.
-mike
If you don't typically carry rear seat passengers, the Forester gives a much more sense of roominess for the front-riders due to the height and more vertical windshield slope. That's one of the reasons why I picked the Forester over the OB back in '98.
Also, the vertical height can come in handy in the cargo area. For me, it can be the difference of being able to fit two mountain bikes side by side in the back.
I do agree that the Legacy has more overall useable space, but just wanted to point out that being tall has it's advantages too. ;-)
Ken
The Forester's cargo area is IMO boxier and more usefully shaped, but the strut towers protrude and eat into the volume, as does the moonroof (still worth it IMO). Still, it'll fit a taller box more easily, like a freezer or a clothes washer.
The Legacy's cargo floor is wider because of the multilink rear suspension. You have a much bigger floor area, wider and deeper. But it's not as tall, so bulky boxes may not fit as well. But baby gear does.
I own both and recommend them. The Forester is better in the city, turns quicker, is lighter, more maneuverable. The Legacy is smoother, quieter, better on the highway and on trips. It's a tad more comfy for passengers. But the Forester is more fun for the driver.
But 2 kids? I'd go with the Legacy. Remember, you get rear disc brakes, and it's a little cheaper.
-juice
YetAnotherDave
-juice
Subject: How to remove fake wood panel from dash?
Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 9:37 AM
Hi,
I purchased a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited couple of months ago. The
previous owner poured some coke in the dashboard, so all the climate control
keys are sticky. I'd like to remove them as well as the CD player in order
to clean them. This is how far I got (I removed the cup holders):
http://www.qqriq.com/Pics/subaru_radio.jpg
How should I remove the fake wood panels? I tried to force them but I'm
afraid to break them.
Thanks for your help!
I just did what you're attempting to do.
Sorry juice, I couldn't wait and did the install.
Anyway Doneko, ok you got the cupholder unit out.
With a sturdy blade/knife, try to pop the top panel housing the vent duct and control module. Start from the left, insert the blade/knife at about the middle and gentle pry to dislodge the catch. You'll hear a pop. Then prey the right middle. Once both sides a release, slowly lift from bottom. There are wires connected to the hazard button.
To remove the vent control module, there are 4 screws (one at each corner). Use a magnetized phillip head screwdriver. Once you've got those screw out, slowly pull the control module out and disconnect the wiring behind. Just remember what goes where.
Now, for the CD. It's a big PITA.
I see you've got the ashtray removed. OK, now you got to get down and look at the top side of the ashtray's slot. There are 2 screws towards the opening of the slot. Use a 1" blade/stem phillip head screw driver to remove them.
Oh, before you do that. Engage (pull) your hand brakes. Insert key into ignition and turn to accessory, and shift gear to First. That will give you room to move, and you'll need the shifter there later anyway.
Realistically, you should be able to remove the section of the trim but it didn't work for me. So like me, if it does not come off, you will need to remove the panel encasing the shifter. But before you could remove that you'll have to remove the panel before that. Flip open the center storage compartment. You'll find 2 screws. Remove them and with a blade/knife inserted into the seam on the side, slowly pry away the panel. Once that is removed, do the same with the panel encasing the shifter. You'll have to rotate the panel 90 deg. so it will clear the shifter. Now slowly remove the trim from the top. You'll find that the power socket will come with it. You'll have to manuever the trim to get the bottom of the trim to clear the base and get the power socket out of it's interior slot. Once you've got the trim and power socket to clear, remove power socket wiring (remember which is which. use a tape to label).
OK, the audio unit. It is fastened by 6 screws, 4 front 2 aft.
Use a standard lenght phillip head screwdriver for the 4 front. Magnetized the screwdriver. It's no fun fishing for the screws if they drop. For the 2 aft, use an extra long phillip head screwdriver, again magnetized. Then slowly pull the unit out. There will be 2 set of wiring behind, one will dislodge on its own when you remove the unit whilst the other you'll have to depress and stub and pull.
Caution. Just underneath the ashtray area is the SRS unit. So be careful if you have fish for dropped screw. Try not to drop screw in there. Like I'd said earlier, it is no fun.
Oh, while you're at it. Please take pics of each step for juice. I couldn't cause I don't have a camera. Thanks
-Dave
I think the steps Dave mentioned are a bit out of order, though you may well be able to do it his way as well. Here's where we differ:
After removing the cupholder (you've done this, though the pic looks like the R side screw is back in?), you should pull the ashtray (or storage cubby -whichever yours came with) by pressing down on the lid that pops up and pulling it out of the way. Then look in the vacant hole for two Phillips screws on the "roof" of this vacant hole. If you don't have a small enough screwdriver, you can use a Vise Grips or pliers holding a driver bit from a power drill set. You only need to turn them a full revolution before you can take them out with your fingers.
NOW, you can grab the top edge of the wood trim piece that goes around the stereo and pull it toward you a few inches until you feel resistance. DON'T remove this panel or you'll have to pull the center console to get it back in.
Next, you can push both vents all the way down, and insert 2-3 fingers to grip the bottom edge of the vent holes in the trim and pull back and down at a 45 degree angle while rocking the piece side to side. It takes quite a bit of force, so focus on spreading the load across all your fingers to avoid breaking the trim piece. It will come out with a pop, then disconnect the wiring to the hazard switch as indicated above and continue.
The plastic clips you're trying to get to pop loose are at the vertical center of the vents. I chose not to pry as the trim seemed very easy to mar, so I quit and just pulled it out.
Anyhow, the upper trim panel you're working on is held down by the lower panel, and you can't tilt it out of the way until you remove those pesky ashtray area screws FIRST. That's not clear in Dave's post, so thought I'd pop in on 'ya.
I cleaned some coffee or Coke grundge out with a wet rag. I suggest disconnecting the battery lest you short something and cause yourself more problems. Good luck.
Tip for the day: If you don't have a magnetic screwdriver, try a dab of thick grease to hold the screws onto the tip.
I'm never always good at explanation(s).
That's why they never ask me to write procedure manuals at work
-Dave
I got a wiring kit made by Reese for $24. I thought that was a pretty good price considering the place I bought my hitch charges $60 for the Hidden Hitch brand wiring kit.
On the 2002 Outback the wiring connector is on the passenger side under the floor carpet panel. Anyone know the best way to route the wiring from there to the outside?
Some folks may prefer a more permanent outside connection. However, I don't trailer all that much, and keeping it inside eliminates corrosion and road mung buildup on the connectors.
Steve
I used some grease to keep the contacts rust-free, but I forget if it was included with the kit or not.
-juice
Once upon a time I had a Chevy truck with a permanent 'outside' trailer connection. I thought it would be schmart to coat the inside of the connector with lith grease to prevent corrosion, and so I did. About a day later I noticed the turn signal and running lights operating erratically. While walking around the back of the truck I heard a sizzling sound, like bratwursts on a grill. I followed the sound to the trailer plug. Lo and behold, the inside of the plug was glowing cherry red- the whole plug melted together. The lith grease had shorted the circuit out. Had to get another plug and section of wiring harness. I don't know why, but the circuit breaker never blew out despite the wires melting.
-juice
I think that I'll leave it in the tire well for now and try running it out the tailgate at first and if I find that to be a problem, I'll run it through the grommet. Thanks again for all the help.
My 01 Bean suffers from multiple clinks and clunks from the rear passenger side. I've removed every thing not bolted on and it still lives. Very annoying as you can hear it over the radio. The second set of noises comes from the front passenger door. By either getting a strong side wind at hi way speed or passing a large truck at 70 mph, I get a sound much like waxed paper on a pocket comb and it's LOUD. Dealer has checked all this out and of course can't find anything. The car has 11500 miles on it and I am considering dumping the rattle trap for a real car. Has anyone else had these problems or did I just pick the short straw.
thanks in advance
I hope you find the source; that would be very annoying on a new car.
Mike
Something flat or with flat edge and loose (molding, panel?...) would make such a noise when lifted by airflow causing it to flap (vibrate) and making the buzz on its own or when in contact with another surface. Check all edges thats in the direction agains't the airflow. To hear it @ 70 mph definitely isn't that loose to notice whilst the car is standing still.
I know I'm not much help, but from what you'd describe that (whatever flat surface) maybe what you should be looking at.
-Dave
The rattle I can't speak to as it's a tough call w/o being there. Try opening the door nearest the sound and vigorously swinging it back and forth to see if something's loose in it. Sometimes a seatbelt retractor will also be the culprit - try driving around with the rear shoulder belts buckled. Wiggle the folding seatback to see if it's got some slack in it that would rattle. As a resolution to these rattles, I've jumped in the back seat while on a trip and pinned them down while my wife is at the wheel.
Steve
Good luck,
Steve
-juice
The shaft removal was a 2 banana job with the toughest part finding a way to jack and support the car high enough to swing a wrench under there. There is a heat shield between the exhaust pipe and drive shaft that must be removed (6 bolts), then the shaft itself is 8 bolts (4 at each end). I used a shot of red paint at each end of the shaft to mark it and the 4 bolt holes for later reassembly to the correct position, and used a marker to label the front of the shaft as well. Putting the spare fuse into the FWD slot took about 3 minutes and a light on the dash tells you the system is working in FWD mode. The whole thing took about an hour.
IdahoDoug
So, I called the Subaru 800 number. They told me it's "one quarter inch in rolling circumference", which is about a third the size variation amount the dealer gave. So, now you all know the correct answer. The local dealer seemed unconcerned when I called back to correct them. Guess it's because they get paid to repair AWD systems damaged by incorrect tire sizes, eh?.......
IdahoDoug
-mike
So you sold ol' faithful, paisan? That's cool, I guess. The new one's running well now, right?
-juice
-mike
-juice
Next summer I may substitute a SC for the A/C compressor
-mike
-juice
Greg
We're considering a very low mileage '01 OB from a dealer (program car). It has the child seat and this seems like a nice feature since we have a 5 y/o who will fit it now and a 2 y/o eating his Cheerios at an alarming pace.
The only fact I've turned up was a comment that the seat didn't meet Canadian safety standards.
Pan2
I wouldn't get or not get the car based on the child seat. However, I would purchase a quality aftermarket seat such as a Britax either way - for better safety than an integrated seat can offer. The integrated seats don't have the side protection wings, nor can you recline them for sleeping or resting. Don't get me wrong, the integrated child seats are convenient, just be aware they're not going to offer the protection of a current quality child seat. I view them as a last resort, personally.
IdahoDoug
Steve
We figured that by the time we'd have a kid that could use the seat, the seats on the market would be better than the integrated one on the '00. Plus, I like the fact that all the new seats today have at least a tether strap, which we're using with our Fisher Price Safe Embrace seat right now. Any extra safety features are a plus in our book!
-Brian
They weren't that common though, I doubt you'll find one with the equipment, color, mileage, condition, etc. that you want.
-juice
-Brian
Greg
Only problem with the car so far was defective front rotors (Subaru installed new ones and new front pads, of course, back at 23K).
Otherwise, smooth riding, flawless performance... as I expected...
-Brian
I take my OB to the gym.
Greg
Steve
-juice