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Full Sized Vans



  • w6dwfw6dwf Posts: 2
    Dodge 1996 B3500 1-ton 12 passenger van
    I'm searching for an electrical connector to match an existing underdash connector. The shop manual labels this connector as "Van Conversion Provision" with no C- number. It has 4 wires: 2 fused high current wires, a control wire from the ignition switch, and a ground wire. I'd like to find a source for the mating connector.
    Thanks -- W6DWF
  • I recentally purchased a 1992 E-150 full Conversion van, also with the Centaurus package. I too am having difficulty with the electrical system and have no information what so ever. Did you ever get any answers?

    The battery drains when it is not used longer than 1 or 2 weeks. I do not know if the extras are on or off as the buttons don't say what is what. I love the van, but I am frustrated with the lack of info. If you know anything, please share. I appreciate it.

    Thanks, arielsgranny
  • chevanchevan Posts: 10
    Hello Conference. Everybody happy with their full size vans? I'm ready for a new van and am considering replacing my '99 Ford Chateau with a similar model. I purchased my van in 2000 with 16k mi on it. I now have 112k mi on it with minimal problems. This Ford has been a great truck.
    Any comments, experiences, prices paid, gas mileage, etc. would be welcome.
    Thank you. PBL
  • drsmeddrsmed Posts: 2
    Hi. I have a 1993 Ford Conversion Van E-250. The conversion was done by Companion Vans. The van runs a little rough and occasionally stalls after being on for a couple minutes. If the a/c is used, the stalling and lurching pick up. I have taken it to my mechanic who has done everything possible with the fuel system and then some. He is very stumped -this never happens. I'm are being told it's electrical but we cannot find the schematics for the van's conversion. I have contacted the conversion company and nobody will respond to me. Can anyone help me with this?

    Things that have recently been replaced since I bought the van in May:
    - oxygen sensor
    - spark plugs & wires
    - fuel, air, and oil filters
    - distributor cap & rotor
    - PCV valve
    - brake pads & shoes
    - radiator

    Thank you for your help.
  • maddoggmaddogg Posts: 2
    Hello I just got a 1994 Dodge Ram 250 van and I'm planning to restoreing it. There are something missing and would like to find out what was there. On the engine cover (dog house) the front part is missing, I can't tell what it looked like. Also on the side door there was something removed, can tell by the screw holes. I did not get any owners manauls with the van. Does anyone know of a web site that will show the inside of the van?
  • drsmeddrsmed Posts: 2
    Just an update to my previous post (#710) - The van is actually a 1994 E-150, not a 1993 E-250. And I was finally able to contact someone at the manufacturer, he tried his best to be helpful but he says they didn't really have schematics for the conversion wiring back then, they didn't even make their own wiring harnesses. They simply ran individual wires from a common point behind the drivers seat to each of the items they added (TV, VCP, rear stereo, and so on).

    So again I ask, can anyone offer me any advice or tips to try? With gas prices jumping like they are, I am desperate to improve this engine's behavior!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    drsmed, you might also want to ask the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion what they think.


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  • Hi all, been searching the net for the right solution but can't find one; this is the next best thing. I own a 1998 Dodge Ram Van (1500) conversion. Great little wagon, love the upholstered interior. I have Capt chairs and recently, the driver's side armrests suddenly flopped down. Didn't realize how much of a difference they make as now my back is hurting me. The passenger side armrest doesn't go all the way down. Now the driver's side just hangs there. It can also be easily removed, which I did, and found a metallic 'stub' with a factory indentation in it. The stub doesn't appear to be damaged (nothing torn or stripped) and can be easily re-inserted in the opening. My guess is there's a clip that may have come loose. Anyone offer any advice?
  • jhartjhart Posts: 10
    I bought a 94 E-250 retired church "bus" and threw out the seats and use it for construction work. It is huge inside and has the headliner and floor mat which makes it quieter. I have found and fixed a few problems with it over the last 50,000 miles. It now has 200,000 miles and runs well. The tranny will "jump" out of gear on occasion and thump back in. Low speed or high speed. No OBD codes. I changed the fluid and filter twice. I will try cleaning all electrical connections on the trans next. Sometimes it will go weeks without doing it. If it rains it may do it more often. I wonder if the torque converter is unlocking for some reason. I had the clockspring replaced in the steering wheel but it still does it. I think the brake light switch may unlock the torque convertor when applied as it should and sometimes if I hit a bump at speed the cruise will de-activate. Any one else had this problem? My mechanic has tried everything. Thanks!
  • I have a 1994 Ford Conversion van by Centaurus, and am having the same problems with the battery draining. Has anyone found any solution to this problem yet?
  • I recently got a 1994 Ford Centaurus Conversion van and am having problems with the battery draining. The last batter lasted about two weeks. When the van is running, and I turn on wipers, heat, etc., I can see the battery needle jumping a lot. Does anyone know what can be done?
  • Just wondering if you ever found out any information about the electrical system for your Centaurus conversion van. I am having similar problems.
    Thank you!
  • mdb25mdb25 Posts: 1
    I have a 1976 Chevy Van, V-8, and all of a sudden the brake lights stopped working although the hazard lights and turn signals light up the same bulb. I have replaced the bulbs and also the fuses. Does any one have any ideas on what could have caused the brake lights to go out?

  • I am in the process of lifting my 1986 clubwagon and I'm having a hard time locating parts for the fron. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    Try I hope it helps. They have a lot of brackets, etc. for Ford. I know this stuff is around, and I've seen it at shows. Good luck!
  • gymracergymracer Posts: 1
    Putting an engine in a 94 Ford full size van with a 5.8 engine and having trouble figuring out the routing of the heater hose. this van has rear air. Right now I'm looking at 8 hose connections and not sure what goes where. Any help?
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    For class C (mini motorhome) chassis, the Fords are the most reliable. I've had experience with both the 7.5 liter (460) with 3 speed (1987 and 1988) 11,500 gvw cutaway MH chassis and I now have a 1997 6.8 liter V10 with 4 speed OD 11,000 chassis. Either are really stout. I was told to avoid the first year of the 4 speed OD transmission which was 1989. The model you are looking at is a good model. It has EFI and OD and when running right will run really strong and cool even in the hottest weather (unlike some other makes used for motorhomes), and will tow a trailer, too. Don't concern yourself with how many miles are on the odo at all. Look at how much weathering the coach has sustained, especially around all window and roof seals, and everything mechanical. Most of the wear is from the unit sitting and not getting used!

    Check the drivetrain for the usual stuff, lack of maintenance, disrepair, especially fan clutch, radiator, tranny wear, and on the 460, leaks including A/C clamps (they were all crimped together cheaply on many earlier Ford trucks), coolant leaks, etc. The transmission shift cables tend to stretch from being parked (stored) a long time, too. Have the refrigerator fired up so you can feel it cool, but only when the coach is level. The refrigerator if it has even a faint ammonia smell will need to be replaced, about $1300-they need to be kept completely level, but many owners are not very strict about that.

    Good luck with it! :shades:
  • ggogan1ggogan1 Posts: 1
    Thanks for the reply. I looked up the van and it seems there have been some chronic problems. I realize that its easy to learn of bad reports. But there have been 305 Technical Service Bulletins for all kinds of issues including transmission problems related to a faulty drive shaft and seal design- etc. Do you think I should be concerned? I have another Four Seasons on a 98 heavy duty with the V10 I'm looking at too. If I do go through with the purchase, should I have a mechanic check the things you mentioned, or are there ways I can look at it and drive it listening for delays in shifting etc. I did a carfax on it and all looks good. The odometer was changing but it probably sat for a couple years and then was reposessed. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks again - Geoff
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    I'd be really concerned about one that sat for a couple years and then was repossessed. Doesn't sound like TLC. Check it out thoroughly... All kinds of weathering and seals can wear out from sitting and not getting used.

    The '98 V10 chassis is superior to the 460, though. You also have 4-wheel ABS, nice if you will use it for icy, snowy climates (ski trips), but better have a good furnace, etc. Also better A/C and engine cooling, better dash, a steering stabilizer (likely needs to be replaced) and generally more reliably built.
  • garett1garett1 Posts: 2
    99 E-150 4.2L V-6. Over 400,000 miles on original motor (American Quality). My problem is the a trouble code that is causing me to fail emission testing. Failed speed sensor code, check engine and abs dash lights are both on. I replaced the sensor and still nothing. Also the speedometer is still not working. I have to correct the code, and suggestions?
    Proud Ford owner
  • alaganicalaganic Posts: 1
    I just bought a 99 E250. I am having problems with the passenger side window and door lock switches. They both work fine from the driver side controlls. I can lock the door with the passenger side switch but not unlock it. Is there a child safety switch or something like that on this vehicle?
  • Hi,

    I have the same van, and yes its electrical. You have an alarm system under your dash you probably dont know about, Ford put it there and hoped they would allways sell the option, but, they didnt... You will find a small black wire leading off of the alarm and over the top of the steering colum... pull that wire out...

    Start your van and enjoy life.

    I had the same problem, some guy told me it was the transmission; took it to the transmission shop and just got lucky that one of the guys was a big Ford Van fan, he knew imediatly what was going on... and they didnt rip me for a new transmission :)

    Hard to find honest service people these days but it sure is nice,

  • I have owned mostly E250 vans for the last 10 years. I just recently bought a Chevy Express 2500 (extended). I like my FORD and it was a tough decision to go to the Chevy.

    I just drove the Chevy back 9 hours from Kentucky. The biggest difference to me is the Chevy gives you more of a 'minivan' feeling. It is a smoother ride and better gas mileage than my FORD. The Fords just seem to be 'tougher'. I guess time will tell..

    I am a little disappointed that the GVW on the 2500 is only 7500 and therefore is a 6 lug wheel vs the 8500 GVW on my FORD with 8 lug. I wasn't aware of this before I bought it. The advantage to this is parts are cheaper and it rides smoother. The dis-advantage is that I pull a small Bobcat occasionally and I am concerned with the stopping power.
  • I couldn't find a better place to put this, so here goes. You know all the church vans and contractor's vans, the Ford Econolines? Well, Ford has created a genetic freak out of them - with a Super-Duty front end on them.


    Uh, interesting is being nice for this thing.
  • jimmie2jimmie2 Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Econoline with the straight six engine. The problem I'm having is that the fuel injectors are'nt opening. The injectors get battery (+) from the ignition switch whenever the switch is in start or run. The battery
    (-)comes from the PCM(computer). It pulses the ground to two seperate legs. One for injectors 1'3&5 then another one for 2,4&6. The problem I'm having is that I'm not getting the negative(-)from the computer. I replaced the computer and still didn't get it. I want to know if anyone know of a sensor that could cause this to happen. Any help would be emmensly appreciated.
  • Hi! Good Morning from the Southern Appalachians!
    Just bought a 2005 Chevy Express Cargo Van that had been used as a mobile office, so its got nice walls with A/c and heat in the back, ceiling with halogen lights and a 3000 watt inverter.

    Normally I am pretty good at finding the right answers on the 'Net (former librarian) but I can't seem to find any specifics on converting this van for camping. That is how to add a converter for a small fridge, making some storage compartments, that sort of thing. I'm getting ready to build a bed frame with storage under, but would you clue me into good books or other websites or online stores that would help with this project?

    Any other tips would be most appreciated! Gotta get ready for the big trans Canada trip dream!!!

    jan stefan
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    We have a Dodge B350 15 seat van (1 ton truck) and the speedometer has stopped working and it doesn't shift correctly. Someone told me this was due to a broken speed sensor that was located on the drive shaft. Does that sound right? If so could I test it by finding the sensor and unpluging it to see if nothing changed? It just all of sudden happened and the engine light came on when this happened but it doesn't always come on now when we drive it.
    Thanks for any help :cry:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My neighbor has a 2000 full size cargo van with a bad crankshaft. I've never pulled an engine in a van before. Does it come out the front after removing the grill, does it come out the top from inside, or does it come out from the bottom? This will be a first for me. Up till now I've always steered clear from vans due to restrictions. Any suggestions are appreciated. :)
  • Under the Driver;s seat should be a wire harness which goes through the floor.. That plug always gets wet and corrodes causing the Speedo to not work....Clean it up and should be fine
  • I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 Van V8-5.2L VIN Y that has a cam out of sync code...Yes, I replace Dist Cap, Rotor and cam sensor as well as crank sensor but they are still out of sync with no good reason....Anyone buy me a clue?
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