Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • ohsubieohsubie Member Posts: 8
    Has any one used or know anything about the Nokian NRW tires. They are made in Finland and have the All Season snow flake and mountain symbol. Thanks
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Check out the November 2002 issue of Consumer Reports for a full rundown on Winter tires (including the Hakkapelitta NRW). It rated at the top of the pack for snow traction, but fell down in general wet weather performance. It is a tradeoff that might suit your needs well.

    I moved a bit further up their list to the Dunlop WinterSport M2, trading a bit of snow grip for ice traction and general overall handling. So far, I am pleased with my decision....

    Steve
  • b10609b10609 Member Posts: 37
    More for Dude: Importing a Canadian car to US can lead to some interesting problems. Canadian spec for the speedometer poses the first problem when you sit behind the wheel, it's metric not good old MPH !Also the distance on odometer is KM not miles. I'm not aware of glass issue (cdndriver) but it wouldn't surprise me either if spec varies on Canadian version. Another novel unrelated example: If you see a new T-Bird coming at you with blanks where the fog lamps are usually placed - you're looking at a Canadian spec version. Something to do with regulations & lighting specs on our roads. Warranty is usually okay if you're dealing with originating Candian dealer and live near the border but not much good otherwise. More for cdndriver: My wife saw the same colour yours saw (sorry Dude, color in US - another difference in Canada) and liked it, too. She went with Cayenne Red/Tan interior combo in the end - beware some colours are tied to the grey interior which is pretty plain/dark looking. -Waterloo
  • postmodernpostmodern Member Posts: 38
    Boy, this is weird! I've been off the boards for the last couple of months and am just beginning to check back in. Hi Steve!

    I didn't bother with winter tires last year as the Potenzas were new and the weather was mild, but winter tires were in the plan for this year. The only question was studded or not? My 32 mile commute to work is against traffic on the hilly Putnam county section of the Taconic. The NYS DOT does its best, but the main effort during storms is always in the other direction. I've been caught more than once in ice storms on I-84 or the Taconic and it's a white knuckle experience at best. Last Thursday's snow with a thin underlayer of ice put a stop to the debate -- studs. So this afternoon SueBee was equipped with a set of Nokian Hakkapolitta 2's (her birthday present -- she turns 1 tomorrow). Nokian has just started offering the Hakk 2's in the US, so it was hard to get much info about them online -- I don't read Finnish, Russian, Swedish or Norwegian. The tires are factory studded and the dealer likes the Nokian line over the Blizzaks and Alpins. (Incidently CR got their Nokians for the tire test at this dealer). They made very quick work of the icy conditions on the way home. I almost took a joyride back up the Taconic just to see what they could do on real ice!

    Lyn
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    IIRC they are illegal in NYS, if anything they are illegal unless the road is snow covered. So get ready to be swapping your tires often!

    -mike
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Why did you choose the Dunlops over the Michelins? It appeared the Michelins were a little better on ice. Just curious. I am thinking of getting snows and rims for both cars next year (which means it won't snow).

    Greg
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I live in Reno and go over I-80/Donner Pass to CA frequently in my 01 Outback and the stock "All Season" tires were fine to get through the chain control checkpoints. In fact, I didn't even have to stop and talk to the guys -- they just waved me through with the other 4WD vehicles. This is not to say that the tires were that great in the deep stuff (nowhere near as stable as my front wheel drive car with Blizzaks on it) but it got me through.

    The only time you should encounter the need for chains is when they post the "Chains Mandatory" requirement (R3?) -- then EVERYONE, regardless of drivetrain and tires, has to mount chains to pass the checkpoint. Cal-Trans usually closes the road by then due to all of the spinouts on the pass, though, and I've never gone through under these conditions.

    You can mount chains on the front tires if necessary, but your AWD and Potenza tires should be fine for occasional mtn driving.

    Brian
  • subienewbie1subienewbie1 Member Posts: 2
    I was turned on to Subarus by the fact that most people in the hilly and snowy area of the Northeast I live in have a Subaru and some make of 4x4 parked in their driveways. Plus friends who own them are repeat customers. The 2000 Legacy L handles nice, is fairly comfortable and is peppy.

    I have the good fortune of having the service records from the previous owner. The car was well loved and not easily traded in. Their situation changed and they had to give it up.

    Anyway, after about 3 weeks of driving the vehicle, and after picking it up from a service visit, there was a change in the consistency of braking that so far has not been replicated or diagnosed by the dealership. It's troubling because for the first 21 days, the vehicle responded consistently when the brakes were applied. Now there is a change in braking response after the vehicle has been driven for 20 min or so. On highways or country roads where we don't brake very often, if the brakes are applied after some time, the pedal drops, and the car brakes somewhat sluggishly. However, if the brakes are applied a few moments later, there is a much more pronounced braking response. This is much different than before having our vehicle serviced. The only service brake related was adjusting the parking brake cable.

    Have any owners of 5 SPD manual trans. Legacy wagons experienced a sudden change in braking behavior anything like this? Could it be parking brake, vacuum or electronic control related? Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • bigelmbigelm Member Posts: 995
    I do have an Impreza :-)

    Well, I could think of a couple of things, but you might thought of it already... anyway:

    *Air in the brake lines
    *Brake Fluid get too hot (boiling point) or it's just not good; needs replacement with some good fluid like Motul.
    *Brake Cylinder, Vacuum or Pump

    I would lean more toward the brake fluid... just a guess.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Hi Lyn! Good to see you back on the board. Happy Birthday to SueBee - I am sure she enjoyed her new sneakers. You, Greg and I need to get together for lunch - maybe after the Holiday Madness??? I'll bring in the Subaru brochures I collected in Japan this Summer.

    Mike - last I checked, and this was some years ago, studs were legal in NY from October 30 thru April 1. I doubt Lyn would have been able to buy them here in NY if there was a total ban on them. Maybe someone can update us on this???

    Greg - Maybe I missed something, but the most recent CR review puts the Dunlops second from the top overall (below the Goodyear), and tops on ice. I was also swayed by their comments about handling and response on dry roads. But lets face it, almost anything will be an improvement over what came on the car!!

    Steve
  • mjsnd80mjsnd80 Member Posts: 48
    I've been reading the Edmunds boards for a few months. 95% decided on an OUTBACK over the CRV (mechanical problems & weak part-time AWD ) and the Escape (more equipment, better mpg).

    My question involves the dealer-added options. Are these items for sale over the Internet for self-installation?? What's a good place?

    For example, I would guess that the Tweeter Kit is an easy install, with the wires already right there. Is this the case?

    Is the car pretty much ready for the Dealer-Installed accessories? The Dimming/Compass mirror and the Alarm System are other examples I'm interested in... Are they relatively simple installations, with the wiring harness already nearby?

    These cars look great! Can't wait until Saturday.
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Here's a link for the install instructions for the tweeters, premium speakers and CD changer. They're from my 01 GT but I'm sure pretty much the same for your 03 OB. I have the alarm install instructions (I think) somewhere. Hardest part of dash install (including alarm) is removing the HVAC trim surround. That's the plastic piece around your radio and heater controls. It isn't that difficult just a bit tedious as the plastic is held in place by plastic tabs. You need to be gentle yet firm with it. A number of us have done it. There are several dealers on line that sell a lot cheaper than your dealer is likely to do. ANd yes the harnesses are there.


    http://www.subaruparts.com/


    Congrats on your new Soob!


    bit

  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Congratulations. I wish you luck with your cars.

    Chris - I too would suspect brake fluid. Subaru recommends replacing it every 30K miles. If the change happened after the service, I would suspect air in the lines. Bring it back, maybe you can get a brake fluid flush for free now.

    Greg
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    To check the power brake booster: with the engine off, press firmly on the brake pedal, turn key to start engine. The pedal should sink further when the engine starts. If it doesn't, there's a problem. (The engine vacuum is what powers "power brakes".)

    It appears that you are not getting normal pressure on the brakes and need to pump the brakes to get any effect. Brake fluid would be my second thought, as others have mentioned.

    I also have a 2000 Legacy L 5 spd and have never encountered brake problems with this car. Had this problem with a previous car, but it was a long time ago and I don't remember what the garage did to correct it.

    Jim
  • dcabdcab Member Posts: 101
    I put BF Goodrich Winter Slalom tires on my Outback. BJ's had 205/70/15's (original size on my 97 Outback) for $53 each with a coupon they sent us in the mail (installed and changeovers included), so I couldn't resist. This is the first winter that I've used a winter tire. They are great! We've had over 40" of snow already this year and I think they handle just as well as the Blizzaks we put on my wife's Forester.

    They may not be as highly rated as some others, but when you combine Subaru's AWD with a winter rated tire, you can't go wrong.
  • postmodernpostmodern Member Posts: 38
    According to the NYS Motor Vehicle website, studded tires are legal in NY from Oct 16 throught April 30 inclusive. Fines are accessed if you're caught with them installed from May 1 to Oct 15.

    SueBee loves her new winter boots -- they're nice and sticky and growled at just the right pitch as I hugged the left lane driving to work this AM. The tracks that she left were aggressive, to put it mildly. (And I was more aggressive, too ;-) Winter should be a lot more manageable (dare I say fun?) now that she's properly dressed. And after the mildness of the last few years, I think this winter will be one to remember!

    Steve, Greg, Let's plan for a meeting in early January. Let me know when and where...

    Lyn
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    just got a set this season for my Legacy, seem fine so far though not much snow yet, less noise than Arctic Alpins it replaced.
    The NRW have been replaced by the WR, Nokians advertising mentions the WR was designed to improve upon the NRWs wet handling, so CR may have been onto something about their poor assessment of the tire in the wet though it seems fine to me.
    I think its somewhere on Nokians website that I read that Nokian seems to design tires to improve "lateral stability" while Japanese tire companies are into great straight line braking and other Europeans are into higher speed handling for their winter tires.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Any of these will be fine choices, and a vast improvement over the OEM "all season" rubber. Just remember to get them off when the Spring approaches, as the softer tread compounds will wear very quickly on warm pavement.

    Lyn: Good - I was pretty sure studs were still OK. Sounds like even more months than I remembered.... See you and Greg after New Years?

    Steve
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    Hello all,

    I turn to you for your ideas regarding my situation.

    One and a half weeks ago I ordered a 2003 Outback H63.0 in black from my local dealer:

    CDN MSRP: 39,995+Destination($895)
    Dealer offered it to me at 37,745 incl destination, and said it was $600 above cost.

    Edmunds TMV showed people were generally paying 7%below MSRP (US) and I am being offered pretty much the same deal. I ordered the car, put down a refundable $200 deposit, signed the order and was told that the car should be here in 1-2 weeks.

    I got a call yesterday from the salesperson, instructed by the sales manager, to offer me a White Outback, or a Green one which is arriving on the lot shortly. I asked why they were offering me the other colours, and they said the Black Outback would take 3 months to get in. Here I am thinking that is is in transit now, but instead am just being told the avilibility.

    I called the 2nd in command in the sales department today to try and figure out what is really going on. Her story again was there is a 3 month backorder on Black ones. I asked that If I were to comprimise and take the White or Green one, how much they could comprimise on the price. She said that there was not much that could be done. I proceeded to tell her that I can get the same model at the other dealer near where I live for the same $37,745 price tag, and they would be able to offer me twice as much on my trade. She looked at the pricing again and said the price I wass given is at cost and couldn't take any more off. I reminded her that I was told that it is $600 above cost, and she claimed to perform an incorrect calculation, and she could drop the $90 documentation fee, and take $100 off the White one, but not the Green one. I asked why not the green one and she went on about how it has to come from the mainland to the island, and that is an additional expense for them. The white one came from the same place a week ago.

    She then transferred me back to the salesman, who took a firm position on the $37,745 price as the lowest possible, and that only the $90 documentation fee could be dropped, not the extra $100. He said she had only been working there 6 months and didn't really know the policy.

    So, here I am, feeling like the dealer wants to dump the excess stock on me, while overstuffing their pockets.

    Essentially, I would like the green one, probabally more than the black now I think about the option open to me again, but I want to save a little more due to the runaround they have given me.

    If anyone has any ideas, please post them here.

    Also, does anyone know a contact email for Subaru Canada?

    Thank's much for your help
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    I should also add that I brought up the holdback on the car to hopefully reduce the price some more, and the salesman said that this holdback money goes into a big pool that pays for advertising, and interest accumulating on other cars as well. At this point, he became very stern sounding on the phone and continued 3 times to state his bottom dollar price of $37,745. He said to me in regards to the holdback "You win some and you loose some"

    So, I wonder if that's another desperate tactic to rope me in again...

    It's not my fault if they can't find cheap advertising.....
  • b10609b10609 Member Posts: 37
    Hello Sebberry, I'd suggest talking to Subaru Canada directly at 905-568-4959 in Mississauga if you feel dealer is playing games. E-mail tends to go to the plebes, by the way the President is Mr. Norio Osakabe. Fax is 905-568-8087 over there. Good luck. I assume your reference to the island puts you on Vancouver Island ? - Waterloo
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    Thank you for your post, I will try to give Subaru Canada a call.

    And yes, I am on Vancouver Island
  • red927red927 Member Posts: 118
    In your last post you mentioned a $500 cash back on the 03's. I have not seen that anywhere. Do you have any more information?

    Phil
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    3 months for Black? I don't buy it. If you have another dealer nearby, I'd run, not walk, to that other dealer. They are playing reindeer games, Rudolf.

    Newbie: my guess is your brake master cylinder is bad. Subaru had a recall on my Forester to fix that, though it never had the symptoms. Supposedly it would only happen in extreme cold, the pedal would sink to the floor, then if you pumped it would work fine. Bring that to the dealer's attention.

    Martin: sure, do-it-yourself is the way to go. You can try subaruparts.com or e-mail parts@libertysubaru.com for wholesale price quotes. Most of the stuff is easy to do, and it's rewarding IMO.

    -juice
  • subienewbie1subienewbie1 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you all for the suggestions and trouble shooting tips!

    Each time we have brought it into the dealership (3 times now), they have concentrated on the pads, rotors and calipers. I have to review the service records to see if they have checked the vacuum or fluid levels. That is really good to check out on our own as well.

    I have heard recently that timing belts on Subarus are recommended to be replaced around 60,000 miles. The car has about 58,000 miles on it now. Oh the things we know now that we didn't know when we bought it! Any estimates on cost for this? Ballpark estimates and ranges are fine. I know from previous vehicles that it means taking the top and or front of the engine off.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check your owner's manual, some belts are only scheduled for replacement at 105k miles, inspection at 90k, mine included.

    I'd guess about $300, but haven't done it yet. Do the front seals while you're at it.

    -juice
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Newbie: good news! timing belt replacement on a 2000 is at 105,000 miles. (You can look up maintenance schedules at subaru.com.)

    Martin: try 1stsubaruparts.com. they are a dealer on the west coast but you can get prices on lots of parts on the website. (You just have to click way down to the parts price level.)

    Also, consider a Subaru MasterCard. 3% rebate good for Subaru parts, accessories, service, or towards a new Subaru. It paid for a bunch of my routine maintenance parts (at discount prices) from the dealer mentioned above. (Get more info at subaru.com.)

    Jim
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Do not compromise on what you want. Cars are very expensive and you will be very upset if you settle - especially if there is no $ savings. Sounds like this dealer did a bait and switch. I would get my $200 back (I'm sure they will give you a hard time about this too) and march to the other dealer. If you want black get black. Let us know how it went. BTW, price is always negotiable.

    Greg
  • red927red927 Member Posts: 118
    Thanks for the information. I have a 2.5 GT on order from the store I have been using since 1992. The car is due in around 12/23. I will ask them about it at that time. They did not mention it at the time of the order, but may have included it or part of it in the price at that time.

    The drive up to Ct. is a little far, though I appreciate your offer to check them out. I'll post again after I pick up the car. Thanks again.

    Phil
  • xccoachlouxccoachlou Member Posts: 245
    Read this in Daniel Herraud's review of the 2002 Legacy. 

    Legacy : 2.5-liter, 4-speed automatic  
     Engine: 2.5-liter H4 
     Horsepower: 165 @ 5600 
     Torque: 166 @ 4000 

     Acceleration: 0-60 mph in 10.8 sec.   1/4-mile in 17.8 sec. 

     Top Speed: 110 mph 

     Braking: 60-0 mph in 143 ft. 

     Road Holding: 0.76 g. 

     Fuel Economy: 22 (City) / 27 (Highway) 


    Legacy : 2.5-liter, 5-speed manual  
     Engine: 2.5-liter H4 
     Horsepower: 165 @ 5600 
     Torque: 166 @ 4000 

     Acceleration: 0-60 mph in 10.0 sec.   1/4-mile in 17.6 sec. 

     Top Speed: 112 mph 

     Braking: 60-0 mph in 146 ft. 

     Road Holding: 0.76 g. 

     Fuel Economy: 21 (City) / 28 (Highway)
    How is it possible for a manual transmission automobile to brake in a longer distance than an automatic?

    - Lou
  • senturisenturi Member Posts: 27
    Last Thursday my wife was hit by a 2001 Honda on the right side damaging the rear passenger door. The body shop wrote up the repair estimate and the insurance company will cover the damage. My question is what will become of our original warranty and our extended warranty coverage? Also, I am considering having Subaru check out the Outback for any hidden damage. Please advise.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Lou: sample variance probably explains it. The auto is a tiny bit heavier, also.

    Body damage should not void the warranty as long as the repairs are done properly by a reputable shop. I would demand OE parts - they will not guarantee after market parts that they didn't make, of course.

    Your 2002 is still very close to new, so demand OE parts.

    -juice
  • jswestermanjswesterman Member Posts: 3
    Brian,

    Thanks for the info on getting over Donner Pass - that is where most of my winter driving is.

    You said that chains can be put on the front tires of an OB. My OB manual states not to put chains on the stock Pontenza (P225/60R16) tires. Have you been ok doing this?

    Jeremy
  • xccoachlouxccoachlou Member Posts: 245
    that sample variance probably explains it? :)

    It is because the auto is heavier, that all things being equal, the braking distance should be longer as the brakes are also working against the engine.

    Now, if there were different size brakes between the manual and the auto that would explain it.

    - Lou
  • cdndrivercdndriver Member Posts: 86
    HI,
    I called a dealer in Canada today and asked if there were any incentives or cash back for subies. I told him about the rebates you mentioned. He laughed and said they must be doing something wrong down there. "Why would they give anyone money for a Legacy SE when they're already getting 3000.00cdn in accessories for only 500!" "No," he said "there's no incentive here!"
    So I'm trying to get one close to invoice, but it'll be tough as they're getting hard to find. I'd ideally like a GT, but they aren't worth an extra 7100.00 for leather and a sunroof. And there aren't any incentives on them either.
    what can you do?.....
    cdndriver
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    When I bought my 2001 Outback I was in and out of the dealer over 2 months ... he was well aware that I was looking at all sort of cars and models. However, color wasn't as important to me as it is to some people. Near the end, I had just about gotten what I wanted and they had blue one (which would have been my preference - at the time) and by the time I went in a few dyas later, it had been sold. As it was I ended up with one with just a few more features at as good a negotiated price and have been happier with the wintergreen since it doesn't show the dirt and salt as bad in the winter.
    I did the research on Edmunds and made a great deal on my car ...
    Brenda
  • sebberrysebberry Member Posts: 148
    Ladywclass: good to hear the Wintergreen doesn't show the dirt too much.

    I had called my local dealer after they gave me the runaround with the colours, and said I don't want the car and please tear up the order. (This was the assistant sales manager)

    The next morning at 9:05, the head sales manager called me to discuss the matter. You can tell that my order was at the top of the pile with a big "Don't loose the sale" note on it....

    So, she offered another $600 off the car, and I insisted that it be the Winterrgreen one, not the white one I was convinced they were trying to get off the lot...

    Anyway, she did up the final order:

    MSRP: $39,995 + 895 destination

    I got: $37,145 incl destination...

    Not a bad deal...
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    VanBortel subaru in the Rochester NY area offers a 03 Outback wagon for $21159. Shipping is $535 but they also offer a $500 rebate.

    When I did the conversion 37145 = 23811 ....so you did pretty well!

    OK ...just a comment : )
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    My sincere apologies but I was incorrect regarding Subaru brakes in post 7035.

    That technique does not apply to Subarus!

    Sorry,

    Jim
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Road testing to gather performance numbers is a very in-exact science for a number of reasons.

    To begin with, as Juice said, no too cars, even if identically equipped, will net out exactly the same. A recent letter to the editor in CD magazine about two or three different WRX posted 0-60 times confirms this.

    Mechanical parts wear. Performance usually gets better when surfaces 'wear in' for optimum mesh, then begin the slow degradation of various wearout modes. Disk brake swept area can vary greatly from identical vehicles, even on a single vehicle as it ages. Amt of material transfered from pad to rotor during break-in, grooving, runout, pad composition and uniformity, rotor 'soft spots', all change the braking performance with time.

    In the case of brake distances, temperature makes a huge difference. In successive stops, distances get longer as heat creates fade. Yet cold pads don't work well either. Brake pad to iron rotor friction follows a bell curve - no good when too cold, very poor when too warm. Best when just right.... The problem is controlling 'just right' for performance testing.

    Another variable - most brake systems can lock up the tires. So brake distance is very dependent on ABS performance, and tire adhesion to the pavement. Again, tread depth, road and tire temp, road surface moisture, tire brand - all can change the numbers.

    I have seen some testers state the season and time of day, temp, RH, barametric pressure, wind speed and direction. These all must be matched if you want even identical performance from the same vehicle.

    Lastly, the final number that makes the road test report may be an average or even weighted average of multiple tests, maybe even over a period of days.

    Long and winded, but I hope this helps....

    Steve
  • laker64laker64 Member Posts: 9
    Would appreciate the Subie gang's opinions on the 2003 Legacy L SE wagon verses the base L model wagon. Main difference of course is the sun roof which for us is desirable since we live in Florida. The one draw back that I noticed was that it reduces the rear head room by 2". I got in the back and was alright (I'm about 5'11") but anyone taller would have their head hitting the roof. Up front, both my wife & I were OK with the head room on the SE. The SE package seems like a good value. I have to admit that I liked the 16" alloy wheels too!
  • cdndrivercdndriver Member Posts: 86
    Hi Laker,
    Up here, the SE doesn't have a sunroof, but it does have heated seats. I wish they had the sunroof, as I'd really like one. The headroom is an issue for taller drivers. I had a problem in the sedans, and forget about sitting in the back seat if you're over 5-5. The "fast back" is just too low. I guess no one at Subaru actually sat back there.
    I'm waiting to hear on some offers I put in for an SE. I'll let you know what the dealers will do up here.
    regards,
    cdndriver.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Go for the SE, the package is a bargain and will help resale.

    Put it this way, I bought a 2002 L, and ended up having a moonroof put in, as well as used alloys. Save yourself the trouble. Kids tend to be in the back seat, anyway.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I've never put chains on my Outback -- all season tires and AWD have been enough these past few years. I didn't specifically check my manual, though, before I suggested putting them on the front tires...that suggestion was one that I passed along from others here on Edmunds who had used chains on their Outback. Sorry, I should have clarified that. There may be a clearance issue if you put big chains on the stock tires...but I'm sure others have used low profile cable type chains on their Outbacks. Dedicated snow tires are still the way to go, if you've got the dough.

    Incidentally, the huge snow storm we just got this past weekend let me try my new Dunlop SP Sport A2's out in some deep slush. Wow -- not the kind of confidence I was hoping for in deep snow. I honestly think the OEM Firestones hooked up better in the snow than these do. I noticed the lack of traction mostly in corners...I was going even slower than I would normally be driving in the snow and the car still felt like it was wanting to rotate around. If this snow keeps up, I may go back to Blizzak's this winter just for peace of mind!

    Brian
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Sorry about the long posts today -- catching up...

    This morning on the way to work I was driving through several inches of wet slush on the roads and had been in 3rd gear for about 3 minutes or so when I tried to upshift and found the transmission fully stuck in 3rd gear. The gearbox felt as if it was filled with cold honey...the lever barely moved and I only get from 3rd to neutral and back to third. I slowed down, stopped for a red light, and barely got it into first. As I accelerated, the engine made a pronounced "boxer" sound from 2-3K rpms, as if the muffler was gone, then refused to give me 2nd gear so I took 3rd instead.

    I'm sure the bottom of the car was caked with really heavy, slushy snow, but the car was not that cold (it had been in the 45deg garage all night) and the temp this morning was close to 30deg.

    How could slush affect the manual transmission? It was very bizarre...my commute to work is only 5 miles, so I didn't get to really look things over to try and diagnose it. In 43K miles, this has never happened to the car so I'm a little concerned that something's amiss. Any ideas?

    Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, I've worked with gear oil, 75w90, same stuff in there. It's definitely thick when its cold, in fact it was very hard to pump it with my oil pump by hand. In hot weather, the same job is quite easy.

    But your case is pretty extreme. I would check the fluid level and condition, even smell. Maybe change it next time you get a chance, some people do this every 30k miles anyway.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I had the fluid done a few months ago at the 30K service (July), but I have not looked at it since. I'll try to check it at lunch. It really was not that cold, either, at around 30deg. It shifted fine at first, then went to pot a few miles down the road. Strange. It's going to be in the shop for the next 2 weeks getting repainted (under warranty) so I won't be able to monitor this until I get it back after the 6th of January. I hope I better luck with the rental cars in France for the next 2 weeks than I'm having with this!

    B
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, but you'll be in France! Warranty will cover whatever is wrong with it, don't worry, be happy.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Brian - I totally agree with your assessment of the Sport A2s. Pulling straight ahead, the tires did great. However, when trying to turn in snow, they just lost it. I would power through it with the AWD, if possible.

    Greg
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Most of my driving in this storm (the first since I mounted these Dunlops) was with 3 big dogs in the back, so I didn't power through too many turns! Even moderate acceleration in corners was enough to start bringing the tail around, though. With my otherwise crummy Firestones, it took quite a good stab at the throttle to make the back step out. Tire Rack has a mounted set of Blizzaks for the OB for $600 and I might have to break down and do it...that's only slightly more than my insurance deductable.

    I loved these Dunlops out on the highway (I've put about 13K on them since July), but their winter performance is pretty disappointing.

    B
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