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Comments
I'm on a business trip and was able to upgrade the rental to a 2000 base model OB. I figure that if I am reasonably pleased with a year old model that has 18k hard miles of rental fleet abuse, then I'll be really happy with a new one that will be well maintained and treated right.
So far I've driven over 250 miles including a 150 mile round-trip through the rains in Northern California. I'm pretty impressed with the car so far. I'm 6'2" and 185 pounds and the drivers seat fits nicely, and I'm not feeling cramped. With the car loaded with 4 people (me, wife, 2 kids in car seats) the 4 cylinder feels a little underpowered, but I do think I could live with it. It swallowed a huge quantity of luggage without problem, and the rear seat space seemed fine for my needs.
Fit and finish are holding up very well considering the number of miles and rental abuse the car has seen. No rattles or major noises. A little valve noise from the motor is all I notice. It's quiet at speed and handles really well.
At this point I'm questioning whether I should pony up the extra bucks for the LL Bean. Is the Bean suspension tuned softer that the base? I like the way this one drives, and it's been a couple of weeks since my Bean test drive for comparison.
I'll report more as I spend more time with this car.
Shannon
BTW, another really useful time to use your fog lights is when you live in a place like Denver (CO) where they only seem to repaint the road lane markings every 100 years or so! At night, and especially if its raining, I use my fog lights to help me stay in my own lane, such as it is, a bit better.
Cheers,
Jas
It sounds like the dealer you're near in Alaska is a real jerk. I'm surprised there are so few Subaru dealers in Alaska. I thought there would be more, considering Subaru's great snow ability. I hope you get this resolved to your satisfaction.
Bob
Anyway just curious how they do it.
Thanks
Guy
Bob
Also note that he has listed (and linked) a number of WRX-friendly dealers from all over the country. It's very possible that some of these dealer can also help you with a new Outback.
There is another Subaru dealer, from the northwest, that I occasionally see links to: Joe Spitz. He may(?) be listed here.
http://www.new-impreza.com/
Bob
Here is the link to Joe Spitz's pages
http://www.cars101.com/
I exchanged a couple of Emails with him. I am in Australia and was intrigued at how much effort he had put into the website and wondered whther it was worth it.
I get the impression that he loved selling the SVX and has a thing about them and Subarus generally. His site has a wonderful back catalogue of old Subaru details, right back to the 360. I think he may be a "Subaru Enthusiast".
Cheers
Graham
The suspension in the OB and LL Bean are the same. Just decide on whether or not you need the extra power.
-juice
Mark
There is a dealer in Portland (Thomason Subaru) who has been advertising LLB's with a MSRP of $30,920 for $27,388. They also have comparable prices on OB's and Limited's. There is a young salesman there named Sterling who keeps calling me and asking if I have bought yet and when I tell him, not yet , he gives me a rundown on what they have on the lot and assures me the $27,388 is no scam. Bring a check and it's yours. When I last talked to him about 3 days ago he said they had 20 VDC's and many more LLB's, so it would appear there is virtually an unlimited selection.
The simple reason I have not physically been to their lot is because there is a Subaru dealer in Longview,WA which is 35 miles from where I live (100 from Portland) and I really want to do business with them. So I just keep looking for the best deal and when I'm ready to buy they say they will match whatever I find.
There is another dealer in The Dalles (sales manager Bodie Sanderson) www.autocost.com, who has called me and says he will sell me anything including VDC for $100 over invoice so they might be worth checking out. If you e-mail Bodie he will get back to you (I think)
I have a friend on Hoonah Island (40 miles from Juneau who I am planning to visit soon and you got me thinking about the ALCAN drive. Beautiful, but long and somewhat boring. However if you were driving your new Soob it might not be so boring.
Anyway it does look like there are deals in Oregon that are comparable to Fitzgerald, it's just that they don't have great websites like Fitz
Good luck
Guy
FYI, (for those located in Seattle area) Carter Svc Dept is open 7 days a week now and offers free loaner cars.
Stephen
Bob
http://www.cars101.com/alaskasubaru.html
Does anyone have any info on just using regular 87?
I keep reading(latest in the recentConsumer Reports) that if the engine doesn't knock, then the higher octane is a waste.
The manual infers you can use regular.
fredsw@cinci.rr.com
You certainly can use the 87 Octane in the H-6 and probably never notice a problem BUT here are some things you should consider:
The engine was designed to run on premium. It has a knock sensor that retards the timing so that it will not ping with the lower octane fuel.... so, you will probably never hear it ping. Ultimately you lose about 5 hp. Bottom line is, the engine was not designed to run in those conditions, but it can.
I spend a lot of time in my car, I want it running in optimal conditions...I pony up the extra $.20 per gallon for that.
BTW as for Consumer Reports...I think what they are referring to when they say that it is a waste to run anything above 87 octane, is that it is a waste to run higher octane on vehicles that don't require it. I don't think they would recommend that you not follow your manufacturers recommended fuel.
-r
So if anyone is a member already, or has the time and is looking at 2002 models, it might be worthwhile. (The 3yr/36000mile free maintenance offers listed on Joe Spitz site are out of date and are no longer offered by Subaru; all participating organizations have been shifted to the exact same dealer invoice offer).
Guy, is the Thomason Subaru dealer actually in Portland? Using Subaru's dealer locater I could only find one Thomason - which was in a town outside Portland. Do you have a number for Sterling? I'm also considering the Juneau dealer who seems pretty friendly and reasonably priced.
I spoke w/Fitzgerald's today and it looks like I still have a chance for the deal to go through. They have complained to their regional representative about my local dealer breaking his agreement w/them and he is supposed to talk to the regional person who handles Alaska on Monday to see if anything can be done.
Best I can figure on the LLB that is about $300 under invoice. Actually a little less than Fitzgerald.
Disclaimer: I have not actually done a deal with Thomason (for a subaru). I'm only quoting the Oregonian ad and relaying what I was told on the phone. However, I did buy a Toyota from Thomason on a lowball ad and it went as advertised.
Joe Spitz does have a great website but I will pass on $500 over invoice. It's just not necessary to pay that now.
Let us know how it goes.
Guy
Bob
What about tires? I would think up there you would want a more rugged tire with a more aggressive tread, than what comes standard here in the lower 48.
Bob
Most roads here are paved and summer tires are the same as anywhere else. The winter tires used here are the same as those used in other areas of the country where winters are long, cold and icy. Because roads in Fairbanks are icy during much of seven months I use special traction tires in the winter; Blizzaks(?) on my 91 Honda Civic and Arctic Alpines on my 84 Subaru GL Wagon. They make a world of difference on slippery roads and I prefer them to studded tires. I plan to switch to one of these tires for winter months if I ever get the VDC and use the stock tires for the remainder of the year. Hopefully I can find an inexpensive set of rims somewhere.
Thanks,
Talia
Ross
In Dec, when the car had 7500 miles, it began to smell like foul burnt rubber esp. after stop and go driving. Within 2 weeks, it started to slip on acceleration, and the clutch had burned out.
The dealer replaced it.
Shortly after (immediately), the smell was back, and has intermittently been there. Especially a problem if climbing a small snowbank, or reversing. I live in Minnesota, so there is plenty of snow. The clutch burning problem seems worse when weather is coldest.
Talked with Subaru rep, who noted that the first clutch had a vendor's defect (concave fingers on the clutch plate), which caused it to always be engaged, and to burn out. Now, I am worried that the replacement clutch is also burning up.
Postings on this site have noted problems with 5 speed standard transmissions, mostly on Forester, but some on Outbacks. Subaru rep says that the number of complaints to Subaru for clutch problems under warranty have been few (only 180/million cars, or about 6 per year on their database) BUT that clutch problems reported directly to dealers outside of warranty do not show up on his database.
What do you think? Is there something defective in the clutch pedal or release mechanism? Is the clutch too small for the 2.5 L engine? Is it a problem peculiar to cold weather? Is the car a lemon? Should I repair clutch again, or arrange a buyback?. This is my second Subaru. Have not had consistent clutch problems with previous cars.
This has been a big disappointment because I generally like this car. I have cautioned two people not to buy one.
The stock clutch isn't particularly strong, and most RS owners that modify and race them end up getting aftermarket clutches.
Having said that, I have a '98 Forester with over 36k miles and the original clutch is fine. They should be able to get yours working properly.
-juice
Nevertheless, Juice, your comment disturbs me a bit. You say "over 36,000 miles" as if that is not bad for one clutch. In my book 36,000 is not that old and I wouldn't expect clutch problems at even double that. Do you know something I don't about this? My little Merc Tracer/Mazda 323 just had its first clutch change at 220,000km, and 3 people learned to drive on it! (We had one racing engine & smoking clutch hill start episode which just about finished it off.)
I'm just saying I haven't had any problems yet, and my clutch still grabs nicely. His is brand new, so the dealer should be able to fix it.
-juice
I think the clutch should be fine after your repair. During '96~early '00 Subaru went through several modifications of the clutch assembly. The main culprit seemed to be a weak pressure plate. I recently spoke to a Subaru mechanic and he's told me that all the new models ('00+) have completely different assemblies -- it seems as though Subaru has worked out any kinks with its 2.5L 5-speed trannys.
Ken
The deicer helps in freeing up iced wipers, and should also help keeping ice from building up on your wipers while in use.
Bob
edlarso: you may want to call Subaru's 800 number to complain. At least register it, so if your clutch goes prematurely you're covered.
-juice
This is my 2nd winter with my Artic Alpins mounted on 16" Subaru steel wheels, and although they stick well in slick/icy conditions, I regret getting the same profile that comes standard with the Firestones. The Alpins, even though they're the same profile, have more tread contact than the Firestones and as a result, I find they can lose traction on snow covered roads (similar to a hydro planing effect). If I could turn back time, I would go with a narrower winter tire.
Anyway, I may be jumping the gun here, but has anyone heard any news on the 2002 Outback or Legacy?
-juice
I have a 2000 OB Ltd wagon, 5-speed, which is almost exactly a year old and just turned 10K miles on the clock. No clutch problems whatsoever (the car has a manufacture date of January 2000).
In my book, any clutch that doesn't last at least 100K miles isn't worth a damn - excepting, of course, heavy-duty use or terrible traffic (the only clutch I've had to replace in 12 cars and 35 years happened back your way, juice, when I had the joy of commuting from Potomac to Bethesda on I-270 in the late 80s). It's not that hard to kill a clutch through some bad driving habits (they're remarkably touchy devices), but a reasonably skilled user should be able to make it last for a long time.
On the other hand, if there's a manufacturing or materiel defect, then get your dealer to make things right. So far, this clutch strikes me as middle-of-the-road in terms of smoothness and engagement, but it's presented no problems. I'll keep an eye (foot?) on it and let you know if anything develops.
Cheers from Seattle!
Ken M.
I'd opt for the 6 cyl, but I have yet to hit the lottery. Has anyone towed anything like this with their cutback with the 4????? Thanks.
I wanted to know about towing with an Outback.
Thanks.
My old Sprint 3 cylinder's clutch lasted only 65k or so, and that's with a measly 48hp to handle. Maybe the previous owner rode the clutch all day, I dunno.
To tow over 1000 lbs you're supposed to have a trailer with brakes, though you can probably retrofit. 1300 lbs should be OK, given the 2000 lb limit (which is conservative). I've only pulled about 700 lbs, but it certainly didn't feel near the limit.
-juice
I'm new to your list but I'm looking at purchasing a 01 Legacy GT wagon (A/T ... I like 5-speeds but I think the A/T would be better for towing). I have a Coleman tent trailer (1,500lbs +/-). I'd like to hear from others that are towing with their wagons. What experiences have you had. How often do you tow. Does it have enough power, etc...
Wife is concerned about towing something that close to the "limit". BTW, the camper does not (yet) have trailer brakes.
I appreciate any feedback!
Paul in Minnesota.
Bob
Ask to test drive a Legacy with a hitch, and tell them you want to try it with your trailer. They may or may not let you, and they may not even have any hitches already installed (at least not on a GT), but it's worth asking.
You could still do it, but I just thought I'd point that out.
-juice
Try the Sears ones, the new black ones. I think they have different sizes.
I have a soft carrier and that's always an option. Mine's a Samsonite and I've seen them at the luggage outlets for $40. It's water resistant, but if the bottom gets soggy eventually water gets through.
-juice
As juice just pointed out Sears also makes boxes but they are not made as well.