Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    white letters coming off

    I wish they all did that, LOL.

    Get her up on ramps, then, with a cold engine, start her up and try to trace it. Wear thick gloves of course. Touch each shield you can reach, when it quiets the noise, you found it.

    -juice
  • mikeg444mikeg444 Member Posts: 17
    Wanted some opinions on which to purchase, used Legacy Outback or used Passat Wagon. Both have their history of problems but overall the Subie seems to have better reliability. Although one might not think so after reading all the post about head gasket problems and the like.
  • kmcleankmclean Member Posts: 173
    Craig -

    I also have a 2K OB wagon, and recently replaced the inserts (only). The brand is Pylon, and the driver's side is 22NR (for 22" narrow, stock number 1039) and the passenger's side is 20NR (stock 1042, I think, but partially mutilated from opening) - each pack had two inserts. Worked fine with OEM blade. For the rear wiper, a 15" Pylon insert (stock 1025), regular width. I'm in Seattle, and can't recall where I bought them, but you should be able to figure out which store (if any) distributes them in your area.

    I usually go for inserts if the blades seem intact and fully functional, otherwise replace the whole assembly. On my Maxima, only the OEM insert would fit, and cost more than a Bosch blade, so I swapped out the whole thing at that point.

    In San Antonio, the rubber used to rot out from the intense sun long before they were worn out from use - up here it's just the opposite.

    Cheers from (sunny, finally) Seattle,

    Ken
  • dan_s1dan_s1 Member Posts: 8
    fyi....

    Took my first long trip with my 2001 LLBean. Loaded it with lots of fishing gear, beer and my buddy and drove to Tenn. (from N. Ill) to do some fishing. About 550 miles each way. The car had about 21000 at the start and our mileage was an amazing 28 MPG! We took the interstate as far as we could and had the A/C on about 75% of the time. Even with the Chicago traffic we got very good gas mileage. I use premium all the time.
    The car ran great but my friend thought something was wrong with the brakes. I thought they felt normal, (little soft and makes noise for first few miles) He drives a Buick normally. That seems to be the norm, correct?

    Also, I have never received a recall notice. Should I be calling someone to check if I need one?

    Thanks, Dan
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    You may also want to check out these ongoing discussions: VW Passat vs Subaru Wagons & Help me select a Wagon Good luck.

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Yeah, I've got a loose heat shield on my 2000 Legacy. It started before 60k miles but I wasn't sure what it was. I figured it out after it crossed 60k. It's intermittent so it doesn't bother me that much although I may use my subie bucks to repair it.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mike: one survey on NASIOC had about an 8% failure rate on those gaskets. And none were 2002 or newer.

    But look at the ignition coil problem VW had, they're basically replacing all of those on the 1.8T engines. Millions I believe. And people were stalling on the sides of roads, not just having slow oil leaks.

    Nobody's perfect, but VW is, well, much less perfect. ;-)

    Also, check into this but back then VW had a 10/100 warranty that was *not* transferable, only the first 2 years would transfer. So you are on your own. You could buy a 4 years old Subie and still have a year left on the powertrain warranty, which BTW would cover a gasket.

    -juice
  • declansdaddeclansdad Member Posts: 120
    ...can be had at your local Target for around $4.00 (Car/Driver Blades). Since I replace mine twice a year, I opt for the cheap ones. BTW, they seem to be just as good as the OEM.

    Michael
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Check on my.subaru.com to see if you have any outstanding recalls. Don't believe there are any with the LL Bean. Register if you haven't done so. There is also a whole bunch of other info, including dealer services listed there.

    Greg
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    ('02 OBW) I have yet to bring it in. The thought of anybody having their hands inside my clean and well behaved tranny gives me nightmares! Any reports from the field?

    Steve
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    I'm at 34K and have been doing the 30K service items one at a time over the past month. I bought the car in March with 32K on it.

    Was planning to stop by Autozone or Pep Boys (also check at Wal-Mart while there on another errand) to pick up an aftermarket air filter. I see on Autozone.com that the available aftermarkets are STP SA9113 and Fram CA9113 and are in the $12-13 range.

    But some messages on this board have made me question whether I should go by the dealer and pick up an OEM. Alldata lists the OEM air filter as costing $14.95. Is that what I can expect to pay at the dealer? Or will it be much more expensive at the dealer? Another option is to try the online parts suppliers.

    The other question is: Is the OEM better than aftermarket? If so, how much better and how much more should I be willing to pay for that extra quality? If I can get the OEM for only two dollars more than an aftermarket, is that the way to go?

    I plan to also pick up spark plugs, but probably will not have time to do that job until June 18, the day my 10 weeks of freedom begins (I'm a teacher). Recommendations on plugs? NGK or Bosch Supers? I generally don't use platinums, preferring good ole' copper.

    --K9Leader
    2000 OB Ltd H4 wagon
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    IMO, stay with OEM. However, I installed a K&n filter (reusable) with no issues so far. When you get plugs, do not use Champion. My dealer used Bosch and they seem fine. Try Subaruparts.com or libertysubaru.com for good prices.

    Greg
  • vetmatsvetmats Member Posts: 71
    I would suggest staying with an OEM air filter also. I tried installing a K&N filter on my 2000 OB and it started having fits(engine surged up and down while at idle, jerked when starting from a stop). It might have been fixed by disconnecting the battery cable to reset the ECU, but I decided to just return the K&N and get an OEM filter.

    Also, when I had new plugs put in my OB, the dealer wanted $50 extra for platinum plugs. So, I went and purchased Bosch platinum plugs for a total of $8 and had the dealer install those.

    -vetmats
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    I bought a STP filter for my 2.5 H4 and thought the quality was third-rate. The outer plastic frame was harder and did not fit the airbox as well as the OEM, hence I was not sure it would seal as well around the perimeter. I returned it and picked one up at the dealer for only about $2-$3 more. I think this is one instance where it's worth it to go with OEM.
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Hi all,

    Haven't been around in a while, but we're still loving the Outback after 2 1/2 years. Question, we need new tires. I've searched through the discussions on the boards as well as looked at ratings on sites such as Tire Rack, and it seems that for Northeast driving I want either the Michelin Pilots (I'm assuming the Sport A/S for winter traction), or the Dunlop SP Sport A2's. Does anyone here have strong feelings either way? Is there another option for very snowy winters and good all around performance that I'm overlooking? I have to say that I have had Michelins the last two times on my Explorer and love them. Thanks -

    Jeannette
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    Thanks for the replies. You've confirmed my gut feeling to go OEM on the air filter. I will stop at the dealer (it's on the way to the auto parts stores) and pick one up. While the Internet suppliers have it in the $11-12 range, the shipping adds $6-8, and I'm in Delaware so there is no sales tax, so picking one up at the dealer should be the best deal (unless when I get there, the dealer decides to add on a 300% "let's see how much this sucker will pay" markup).

    On the plugs, I can't remember ever going with Champions (well, maybe on my lawn mower). I've always used NGK or Bosch. I stopped using platinums -- I think power/performance suffers, which I am not usually willing to trade off for the (much) longer life. Unless the plugs are really, really hard to change (like on my wife's Toyota Sienna, and most FWD V6s) I will stick with copper plugs. With the exception of having to move some stuff to get to the Subaru's plugs, the job doesn't look too difficult so doing it every 30K is reasonable (and it looks to be easier or about the same difficulty level as on my 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII, where a lot of stuff has to be moved out of the way -- tedious but not difficult).

    Thanks again!

    --K9Leader
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Drop me a line via e-mail if you want I have some good insight into tires. Personally I like the Dunlop Sport A2s on the OB. Bat1161 ran them last winter during our 48hrs of Tri-state Fundraising tour around NY/NJ/PA through a massive blizzard and loved them.

    Where in NY are you from?

    -mike
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    You may also want to copy/paste your message into our Tires, tires, tires discussion. Someone there may have some insights to offer on the subject. Also, in that discussion, you'll find a direct link to our Winter Tires discussion. Look for it near the top of the page. Good luck. ;-)

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Hi,

    Capital Region, b/n Albany and Saratoga. Will ake this off the boards so we don't bore everyone else :)

    Thanks!
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Jeanette,

    As Mike mentioned I have the Dunlop Sport A2's on my 2000 OB and have had no problems. They handle nicely in all types of weather.

    Mark
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I know others here have had good luck with the SP sport A2's on their Outbacks, but I had them for about 18K miles and they were not great.

    At first they handled well and were fairly quiet, but they quickly cupped and became REALLY loud (especially from 30-50mph). Worse, the tires were nearly worn out after 18,000 miles and the snow traction was awful.

    Discount Tire replaced them for me under warranty and put Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires on instead. After driving about 1,000 miles on the new Michelins, I can say they are infinitely better than the Dunlops in terms of noise, ride quality, and snow traction. We are amazed at how quiet the car is now that these tires are on.

    Brian
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I too have them with about 17K on them. I am very pleased with their performance, however, as Brian has experienced mine have become very loud and cupped. Dunlop recommends X rotation for AWD vehicles. I did front-back. If it wasn't for the noise, I would definitely recommend them. Thinking I might try Yokohama Avid H4s next (fall).

    Brian - what did the Michelins cost you OTD?

    Greg
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Thank you everyone so far. Greg, where do you live? If I remember from past discussions somewhere near the city? Snow traction is a huge issue for us, we had well over 100 inches last year and it seemed to come down feet at a time in storms rather than gradually. We were even dumb enough to drive in the blizzard Christmas Day, or rather believed the forecasters who said the further west we went the better it would get as it was a Nor'easter - definitely not! By the time we hit the Utica exit on the Thruway we were one of the few cars still able to drive. At any rate, as I said I'm partial to Michelins, but they are pricey! And of course, the ones with the best snow traction ratings are also the most expensive of all.....but then again I can't say that I ever had any complaints about the traction of the stock Firestones (Wilderness), so I'm not sure if I need to go that high end?

    Jeannette
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd go for a dedicated set of snow tires. I know the areas you travel and even the best of all-seasons will still not be nearly as good.

    -mike
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I live in Putnam county - about 1hr north of NYC / 1.5 hrs south of Albany. The Dunlops were new during the Christmas storm and I had no problems getting up my long hilly driveway with 3 passengers and no plowing at the height of the storm. Don't think they will do well now, but no tire will when worn. I'd like to try the Michelins too, but, not sure if they are worth the price.

    Greg
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    The MXV4's that Discount Tire replaced the Dunlops with only cost me $60 out the door since they credited me back the $485 purchase price of the Dunlops. They were really surprised at how badly the Dunlops performed on my car and agreed that they should not have cupped and worn so thin in only 9 months and 18K miles, especially since I was driving over 2K miles a month on the highway.

    So I guess if I were just walking in off the street, the MXV4's would have cost $545 with the tire warranty, mounting, and balancing. Expensive, yes, but SO much better than the Dunlops. I could not be happier with these but, like I said, I've only had them for about a thousand miles. I remember liking the Dunlops, too, early on; then they went to pot on me.

    Brian
  • amsbearamsbear Member Posts: 147
    I'm quite happy with my set of Nokian WR tires that I got last fall. They performed really well throughout the winter here in NJ. Cost me ~$95 per tire mounted/balanced/etc....

    I've put a good 7500 miles on them since October and they are really no signs of wear. I do keep them at ~ 34psi to lessen sidewall flex.

    They are unidirectional and I just recently rotated them front to back although there was no real perceptive wear differentiation between front and rear tires.

    Alan
    98 OBW Ltd w/67500 miles
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    I know we'd get the best winter driving out of snow tires, but I'm trying to avoid that because of the extra hassle of getting them on and off. I know it sounds silly, but with two kids involved in highly competitive sports year 'round and both hubby and I working there is barely time to get the cars in for routine maintenance. I think I'll look further at Michelin prices, and let you all know what I come up with - actually Sears is probably about due to have them on sale, they've had everything but Michelin it seems the last month or so.

    Jeannette
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    If you need real snow traction but don't want the hassle of changing tires get the Nokian WR (or the older NRW), they are the only snow rated (snowflake logo) tires you can run all year round.
    I had NRWs on my Legacy this last winter, as good as the Michelin Arctic Alpins which were on before, and as good in warm weather as the stock RE92 and negligible wear after 8K.
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    Hi everyone.

    I bought my 02 base OB automatic last September. THis is my first time posting, but I have turned to these discussions for lots of answers over the last few months. You guys have been a great resource on a variety of issues.

    I already have 19k miles in eight months. Had an oil change today and also to make the switch to Mobil 1. Service manager tells me that when changing the oil, the tech noticed "a little [oil] mositure" at the "front of the motor". He says it seems to be a leaky "o ring" at the front of the engine. Supposedly it's not a serious issue or a difficult repair. Since he also needs to order and install a new armrest for me, he'll repair the "o ring" when the other part comes in and I bring the car back.

    I have no idea what an "o" ring is, or where it is, and the service manager was not any more elaborate in his explanation other than that it was a leaky seal at the front of the motor. So my question is twofold: does anyone have a better idea of what this may be, and is it anything I should be overly concerned about in terms of the long haul.

    Also, would appreciate hearing from synthetic users as to recommended oil change intervals and whether there is any concern about exceeding Subaru's recommended oil change intervals while the car is still under warranty.

    Thanks for any assistance you folks can offer.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Guys, thanks for the wiper info. I should have done more research up front. I am disappointed that the auto parts store could not give me the proper "narrow" blades, however. They should have known.... Wal-mart didn't even have a fit guide when I started the whole fiasco there.

    We just got back from a 4 day trip to Hilton Head Island in South Carolina, where I presented a paper at a conference. What a beautiful place. Weather was perfect. This was the first long trip (1100 miles round trip) we took with the LL Bean, and it was spectacular on the highway. I had taken several long trips in my previous H4 Outback and our 03 Forester, but the Bean really is in a different category. Real pleasure to drive for extended distances. I got 25mpg overall, traveling 80-90mph on I-95 most of the time (just going with the flow).

    I saw a lot of Outbacks on HHI, more than I expected (considering most cars were BMWs, Benzes, Jags, etc....). Nary a Forester, but I saw one WRX -- that of a coworker who also drove down for the conference.

    We don't golf, but HHI appears to be a golfer's Mecca. Really beautiful courses.

    Craig
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    The o-ring should be no big deal. Just a seal in the front. Others will be more specific as I am not fully up to speed yet with the H4. As for recommended oil changes - I use Mobil 1 (5w-30 & 10w-30 now) and change every 6-7K miles. I would not exceed the recommended oil change interval for warranty reasons (give the dealer the excuse to charge you for repairs otherwise covered under warranty). I also use Subaru filters which I am pleased with. BTW, you drive a lot!

    Greg
    01 OB w/ 42K miles
  • tchase1tchase1 Member Posts: 16
    I've been away for a while, but it's good to be back. I bought a new OB this last winter. I've had 2 long roadtrips, both in snow, and am pleased with its performance.

    Changing oil: What weight do you recommend and how many quarts? I used 10/40 and put in about 4 1/2 qrts, and notice it's up to the top. Is that too much?
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Be advised that Sears sells several Michelins that are specially made for Sears pricing strategy. They are available nowhere but Sears and seem to be a decontented tire to hit a certain price point. This is also true of Costco and some other big box discounters.

    IdahoDoug
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Ah, I hate it when my ignorance shines through, but what is a "decontented" tire?

    Larry
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    I splurged on the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S for my 2001 LLBean (at 40K). I have 2K on them so far. Missed the snow by a week, so I can't comment on that aspect, yet. I live in northern Westchester Co., just north of NYC.

    The tires are great all around - cornering, highway, noise, general feel, etc. Where they are quite amazing is in rain/water. During the spring thaw (is it over, yet?) I drove through several lakes and rivers (~1" depth) at 75 to 80 mph and the tires didn't skip a beat. I mean no lift whatsoever. Just cut right through like there was no water. Like the car was on rails. Truely amazing performance. [I drive fast and hard so I've done my share of hydroplaning - skipped heart beats and all...]

    Bottom line...that's what I paid $50. more a tire for. Performance and the added security of excellent water (and supposedly snow) traction. After experiencing the performance, I'm more than happy. Now just waiting for the wear performance. If I get more than 30K out of them (and I'm used to getting at least 40K out of a tire) I'll buy them again - that's my cost/benefit analysis.

    There is one other drawback...and I'm not kidding about this one. I've almost crashed my 96 Accord - 106K miles, with new, good $60. BFGoodrich tires - twice recently in the rain. I need to put up a post-it in the Accord reminding me it doesn't have AWD and it doesn't have the Pilots... :-o

    Can't wait until the 2005 monotone black, slightly wider, side curtain bagged, memory seat and mirrored, H6 Outback arrives this time next year [please note Subaru designers]... :-)

    Ralph
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    O-ring is the front seal, around the oil pump I believe. The name simply comes from its shape.

    Ask them to use updated OE parts and to take care in installing it properly, checking torque specs, etc.

    -juice
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Okay, now I'm back to choosing between Michelins and Nokians I guess. As I said, I'm partial to Michelins but willing to give something else a try. We have a camp in the Catskills (Delaware County, and do a lot of mountain driving in rain and nasty conditions also.

    Now, for Juice, back when I was buying my Outback the gossip was that there would be a larger, redesigned Forester possibly for '05? if I remember right. It seemed eons away at the time, but we are closing in, any more info on that? My tired old Explorer just had the clutch replaced, I don't intend to get rid of it anytime soon, just wondering what the options may be down the road -

    Jeannette
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It'll be a different model, not a Forester replacement. They just refer to it as the 2005 Sport Utility Wagon, but it'll be bigger than the Forester or Outback.

    Think of it this way, what the Forester is to the Impreza, the SUW will be to the Legacy.

    -juice
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Sounds great to me!
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    I too am thinking of switching Erfie (2000 H4 OB) to synthetic at 36,000 km. Should I flush after draining the old oil? I'm not a fan of flushing as I don't like the idea of leaving remnants of the flushing oil behind. Any thoughts or experiences?

    And now Erfie is out of warranty can I safely extend the oil change interval with synthetic?

    I've heard that most Europeans are amazed to find that in N America the recommended interval is often 5,000 km or 3,000 miles, whereas they normally change at about double that distance.
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Sounds great to me!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Bimmers have reminder lights, often they don't come on for 10k miles or more. But they do require an expensive synthetic.

    -juice
  • glycinemaxglycinemax Member Posts: 74
    Will anything be refreshed for the last year of this generation? '04MY available June, July, August? Next gen. Legacy wagon lookin' real sweet (summer '04?).
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Air Filter (Robert??): I bought the Fram and was disappointed in the construction (or lack thereof). Pleated paper with a rubber edge seal - no full perimeter frame like the OEM. I won't be fooled again...

    Jeanette: I too live in the Hudson Valley (near Pougkeepsie). I bought dedicated snows last Fall, and was extremely impressed with the difference they made over the OEM treads. If you can put up with the hassle factor, they are well worth it. I went with Dunlop Winter Sports

    Tom: 10w-40 is a bit heavy for normal operation on a relatively new car. The trend today is towards lighter for startup and low friction (5W-30 or 10w-30). And while synth is less likely to break down with use, it still gets dirty - so don't extend those change intervals too far.

    Brian: Dino and synth should be fully compatible. Just change it and drive!

    Steve
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Until Doug shows up, I'll relate that I got some Michelin X-One clones at Costco ~2 years ago. They are the X Radial Plus and have (or had?) the same 80,000 tread wear rating as the X One.

    There was some question as to whether the Costco ones had/have Durablack in them. There are other differences (tread pattern, etc.) that may or may not be cosmetic.

    Search for "union made tires" sometime and you'll see that the big manufacturers make a lot of "no name" tires under various names. Probably a lot of "decontenting" going on, but some of it may just be renaming the tire. Costco, Wal-Mart also sell computers, etc. with store specific model numbers and UPCs, so if you're big enough you can get your "own" brand or model.

    (Soob chat in ~2 hours!)

    Steve, Host
  • jlemolejlemole Member Posts: 345
    Greg, Juice -- thanks for your input on my o ring leak. It seems that it's not a cause for major concern, which makes me feel a lot better. I'll keep you posted after the repair.

    Greg -- did you switch to 10w30 based on the season? I live in Jersey and was wondering if 10w30 synthetic will be o.k. in the winter, especially if we have another cold one like this past year.

    BTW, I probably should have stated in my first post, but this is my first Subaru, and 9 months later I still can't wait to drive it every morning. Hope to replace our 01 Quest with another Subie when the lease is up next year.
  • amies1amies1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy OB/LMT/30th, I am selling it for 11,364. Is that asking not enough? The Kelly blue book on it was 12,100. My father-n-law seems to think we could get much more for it. I don't think we should get more than blue book. Anyway just looking for some opinions before the 19th.
  • jdlanganjdlangan Member Posts: 48
    Yup, dedicated mom here waiting up and hoping that the clouds will clear so that I can wake the kids to see it, they've been looking forward to this -

    At any rate, have been busy today making phone calls about the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, and the Nokian WR's, so far I have a price of about $130 per wheel on the Nokians after a discount coupon on the purchase of 4, that's with a lifetime balance/rotate which I'd like to drop as the dealer really isn't where I'd normally go. Have calls in to Tire Warehouse, they need to call in the AM to get a price on the Michelins as they don't regularly stock that one. I see Wal-Mart carries Michelin, haven't called to see if they can get them specifically. At any rate, has anyone gotten what they consider a really good deal on either, or are the prices pretty standard?

    Thanks again to everyone, I hesitated to go straight to the tire board as I know tires behave differently with AWD.

    Jeannette
  • rob999rob999 Member Posts: 233
    I got my Pilot Sport A/S tires through Costco for the same price as TireRack. I think they even had a Michelin sale at the time that saved an additional $50. The mount/balance fees were reasonable (new valves were free, too, IIRC) and they also include decent hazard insurance for which other place like NTB and Sears give you the hard sell to pay extra for.

    Costco does not stock this tire - they special ordered and did not charge shipping. I was quite happy with the overall transaction.
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