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Comments
I did get the speaker uprgade with subwoofer. The door panels are a little more tricky to pull off but you could do it yourself. The tweeter kit is very easy to install as the doors are prewired.
Also, the roof crossbars are nice as is the rubber rear cargo mat and the cargo net.
bit
-juice
Is there any wiring in place for brakes? Suggestions on how to run it if there isn't?
Thanks,
Theo
Given the brake light works, I imagine the brakes could work on the same wire. Depends on the harness the trailer comes with, I guess.
-juice
Also, you would get a switch mounted under the dash that would allow you to adjust the amount of braking needed. For example, if the trailer is loaded, you would want more braking than if it wasn't.
The estimate for the hitch (class II), labor and wiring was around $375.00. If I upgrade my trailer (add brakes) I looking at another $500 -$600. I'm not sure if I want to spend that much money.
Bob
Of course I can just borrow his! Nice price - zero, isn't it?
-juice
Bob
I see. Sweet. What's a couple hunderd? You'll save that on gas money...
;-)
-juice
Next I tried a maximum speed of 65mph for the entire week for the same drives. Resulted in 25.2mpg.
Next I tried a max of 70mph. MPG dropped to 23.5mpg.
Also tried 75mph. Resulted in 21.2mpg.
I normally drive 65-75mph or move with traffic. Probably average 70mph.
I used to get 24.5mpg at 70mph but it started dropping around 17k miles. Its been stable at 23.2mpg since about 20k miles. Currently, I'm seeing a 5mpg difference between 60 -vs- 75. I was not able to try 55mph as it is really not safe to drive below the speed limit on I270 and I44. I got 29mpg two times on long trips driving at just below 70mph (67) but recently I have not been able to get anywhere near that number.
By the way, Eger Subaru in bridgeport, Pa have been wonderful to work with.
Thanks,
Talia
I have an '00 Legacy GT sedan. I haven't checked highway mileage since I got back from CA, but on that drive (coast to coast) I saw no appreciable difference between tanks burned off at 85+ MPH, 75 MPH, 65 MPH. All were 28 MPG more or less, all with a loaded car, and all the miles were freeway miles.
Regards,
-wdb
I really like the VDC.
Mike
Ross
My experience is similar. Maybe the Outback and Forester have enough drag that high speeds mean less efficiency.
Ross/Tali: I read the manual, finally, and actually discovered 7 things about my Forester that I didn't know. This was a while ago, but I even wrote them down!
-juice
Sam Walker is writing about the leasing market, and how it is not what it used to be. He is also looking for consumers who got a great leasing deal years ago and now have sticker shock. Perhaps they scaled down in model, or found other ways to cope with the significantly higher prices.
Please post if you have had anything like this happen to you recently.
Thank you!
Tara
Host
Station Wagons Message Board
One thing that can affect mileage quite considerably is how long since the injectors were cleaned. The addition of a fuel additive as recommended by Subaru here in Australia at routine service intervals, seems to clean the injectors, dramatically improving performance both on acceleration and mileage.
Cheers
Graham
I think you can also get this to happen in a non-limited slip diff setup, but it's probably easier with the diff.
I was surprised at the snowfall amount here in SE Wisconsin. Last night they said maybe an inch of snow for today. I think we may have gotten about 2 inches of heavy wet snow.
-Brian
I used the opportunity to look under the vehicle and could not find the oil pan plug or see the oil filter. Where are they? All I could see is a sort of plastic guard.
My questions are:
1). If they are under the guard, how difficult is the guard to remove?
2). Being I have my oil changed at a local 'lube' garage, (nearest Sub dealer is 35+ miles away) will the average oil change kid have know how to do it?
3). There is a known confusion on the Forester regarding the Oil Plug and the Transmission plug. Does the same condition exist on the 2001 Outback?
And finally a some questions --
- Should I be concerned about buying a Subaru vehicle with the dealer being 35+ miles away?
- Are the vehicles obtained easily between dealers, or how long does it take to 'order'?
- Can a person get a better deal via an order or take deliver on one from stock?
My thanks in advance.
Howdy from Seattle, Mike.
Actually the access to the drain plug and filter is a piece of cake. If you look carefully at that dust/gravel shield under the engine compartment, you'd see a small panel, held in place by a few (I'm not certain of the number, but around 2-4 - it's too dark and wet here to go out and check for certain) pop fasteners. You just pull out the fasteners, and pull the small panel forward and out. That reveals both the filter and the drain plug, and then you can have at it. The first time you remove the panel will take you less than 5 minutes (to convince yourself you're doing it correctly); after that, you'll have that little hummer of in a minute flat. The only other comment I'd make (and I change my own oil) is that the drain hole is pretty big, so the oil really pours out quickly - beware of spillage or hot oil if you do it yourself. I have a 2000 Ltd. wagon 5-speed, so I can't say much about the transmission plug.
Personally, if I were going to have someone else do the job, I'd either remove that small panel myself first, or at least explain to them what they need to do to take it off. In my experience, turning jobs like that over to others often results in the "disappearance" of things like the little pop fasteners. It's an easy job to do yourself (at least during decent weather), so why not give it a shot. You can do the job with top-grade oil and a new filter for only 10 bucks - maybe less (including a new plug gasket).
I'll let others respond to your questions about dealers, etc.
Cheers to all!
Ken M.
As for dealer distance... If you are taking you OB to the dealer for every scheduled maintenance then that's a trip at every 7,500 miles/7.5 months (after the first one at 3,000/3 months). It wouldn't sound bad to me.
Yes dealer do swaps though I would prefer to buy off the lot and not have someone jockey a car to my dealer for me. Oders take 6-8 weeks (I believe). I was lucky and got mine in under a month.
I got the same deal with an order as I would have gotten from stock.
Does everyone know that at MySubaru you can view AND download a pdf version of your Owner's Manual?
bit
Juice- can you talk a bit about weakness in the stock clutch?
KenS-Should I still be smelling a burning smell after driving on freeway?
Does anyone think this is clutch, or is there something else that smells like burning after 10,000 miles?
Any comment on the standard clutch or the heavy duty clutch? "Heavy duty" (I think) was one of the options when I bought my 2000 outback ltd in July 2000. I wish that I had taken it! Should I replace the current clutch again, for a heavy duty model? Subaru representative said that they are now using the heavier duty model clutch in all standard transmission outbacks. He said this decision was made to consolidate vendors. Does anyone know if there is a documented higher failure rate with the standard clutch?
Thanks. TA
Tom
When I bought my Outback, I experienced some problems with stuttering particularly when the car had been cruising on a very light throttle for a long time and then accellerated. Subaru replaced the ECU which achieved a partial improvement but not enough to satisfy them. They were looking around fro a solution when Premium grade unleaded was introduced to Australia (Shell Optimax). I experimented and discovered that this cleared the stutter, improved fuel economy by about 10% and improved performance dramatically.
If no luck with service, try posting on the members page where patti Mickel of SOA regularly posts.
By the way, Subaru service is pretty special
Cheers
Graham
Here's my quandry. I like the old style as much or more than the new one. Are the newer wagons that much of an improvement?
Good luck, Tom.
I wrote in post 272 about what I perceive as "jerky" acceleration and deceleration in my LL Bean at speeds above 50 mph. Note it only occurs in my Bean at speeds above 50 mph. Is it the same in your car? I would definitely be interested in what your service department finds. When I took a service person for a ride, he claimed it was "normal." Others responding to my post indicated it is because of the nature of the AWD drivetrain.
Grahampeters (post 879) said his problem was solved by using premium grade fuel. But I have been using 93 octane since I bought the car, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. By the way Grahampeters, was is an ECU?
This problem is not serious, but it is an annoyance.
Frank
In Australia, Premium Unleaded is approximately 99 RON (Octane number) and this dramaticaly improves performance.
The ECU (Engine Control Unit) is the computer which controls all of the engine functions and is located in the cavity in the centre of the dashboard below the radio and heater switches.
The stuttering in my Outback had a little to do with my driving technique. I am fairly mean with acceleration (hey, I'm a CPA and don't want to waste money) and tend to do a fair bit of country driving at freeway speeds. The ECu is adaptive, learning our likely driving style based on the last twenty minutes approximately. If I had been driving on a light throttle for twenty minutes, the engine would expect a very lean throttle application and at the frst acceleration where I wanted something more would hiccough spectacularly.
There is a very steep mountain range on a freeway I use occassionally where, about an hour after starting my trip, the car would start to over-run the cruise control, leading to a pretty impressive juddering effect.
I have been using Shell Optimax for eighteen months with noticable improvements in performance. I have a tank of standard unleaded now with no ill effects and will be travelling the same freeway in about ten days time. If it misbehaves, I will know all about it.
Cheers
Graham
Though they are smaller and not as stiff, they also weigh less.
Tom: seems like folks on i Club complain about the pressure plate not being strong enough. Keep in mind a lot of those guys autocross, and most have at least a few mods, so they demand a lot from their clutches.
-juice
I run 33psi all around and I believe that the alignment and balance are fine. I check the tire pressure every 4 tanks and adjust as necessary. Its dead stable to 85mph and the tire wear is even. I use fuel injector cleaner (STP) every 10k and run Shell 87 octane. I have not noticed any difference after cleaning in terms of mpg or performance. Greater than 99% of my trips are more than 15miles and nearly all highway.
If I drive 85mph I get 19-20mpg. I have tested this from several trips to Philadelphia. A few runs near the triple digits puts it in the teens (about 16-17mpg). If you are really getting 27mpg at 85mph I'm really jealous.
Funny considering it's a 2.5l AWD vs. a 1.6l 2WD.
Same driving style and roads.
-juice
Good luck,
Tom
1. Do you really have to pay additional taxes if you purchase from Fitzerald's and live in another state?
2. Is it possible to add on a sunroof/moonroof after market? I do not like the dual moonroofs of the OB Limited and would only want one in the front.
Thanks.
Juice added a sunroof to his Forester aftermarket, he was happy I'm sure he can provide details. I see no reason you couldn't also do an Outback
I'd look in your yellow pages for a local shop that does them, under Automotive - Accessories. Find a shop that is ASC approved and offers a lifetime warranty.
-juice
bit
This may be something we do this year. I'd sure love to have one!
-Brian
Just my opinion for what it is worth.
Cheers Pat.