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Comments
Has anyone in the group ever been saved from the tow truck
by their VDC?
db
-juice
The manual WRX however, has an AWD that is present in all other manual Subarus, with a Viscous coupling AWD system.
Later...AH
Also I'm not so sure you are correct on the rally cars using the VTD system. Any sources for the info?
-mike
I read in one of the Aussie/British/NZ site about the VTD-AWD system and a technical explanation of it. The Torque bias in the Rally cars however (unlike the lighter duty regular 45/55 WRX auto VTD-AWD system), is driver adjustable upto about 35/65 or so, from what I recall. The principle and basic hardware are exactly the same. I will try and dig out that article.
The World Rally cars also have an auto-manual transmission, that is closer to the Auto-transmissioned Subarus than the manual Subarus, that make the basic AWD setup of the Rally cars, better adaptable to the Auto Subarus. Maybe in the future they would come out with manual Subarus also sporting the better AWD system. Currently, the set-up in the manual Subarus are okay and definitely get the job done, but nowhere near the sophistication (or effectiveness)of the AWD systems present in the Automatic Subarus, especially the VTD-AWD equipped Auto Subarus.
The "manual brigade" would gloss over this or even go into denial and jump all over you, when you point this out, but facts are facts, however un-palatable !!! Subaru would not be winning too many Rallys with the kind of AWD set-up found in the manual-equipped Subarus !
Later...AH
-mike
PS: I'm an AT tranny guy so you are preachin to the choir
The WRX does not cut power to the engine under slippage, only the VDC system does that, as well as employ the brakes on the wheels that slip.
I believe the tranny on the rally cars has a sequential shifter unlike any road-going Soob. Car & Driver had a short article about it. The rally car was also wearing 15" wheels!
-juice
on a VDC? I realize that it will push the speedometer speed
up a little (16/15 is about 6%) and drop the clearance
by .5". I have a good set of (four) mounted
snowtires from a 98 OB and I would like to use them on a
new VDC. Is that advisable?
Just make sure you swap all four tires. Swapping two would create a mess.
-juice
Bob
Basically, as juice pointed out, the AT-manual system is a sequential clutch-less manual similar in operation to the BMW SMG auto-manual system and the Ferrari system. But the significant thing about this is that the under-lying AWD system is better adaptable to the Automatic equipped Subarus than the Manual equipped Subarus, even though arguably, the transmission in the WR Subaru cars are truly clutch-less manuals.
In the "reactive" AWD system of the manual transmissioned Subarus, the central Viscous Coupling needs slippage , which then shears the Viscous fluid of the Central Viscous coupling, thus transferring the power backwards or forwards as needed. A very simple system which "gets the job done". Nothing to brag about or to write home about.
The Automatic equipped Subarus have 2 seperate AWD systems, the most advanced among them being the VTD-AWD system present only in the Automatic equipped WRX and the VDC Outback. The other Automatic Subarus have a different AWD system, that is definitely more advanced than the Manual Subarus.
The VTD-AWD system (of the Auto WRX and VDC Outback) is a pro-active AWD system, unlike the "reactive" system of the manual Subarus. It features continuously variable electronic multi-plate hydraulic transfer clutches linked to a true planetary gear-type center differential (NOT a Coupling filled with Viscous fluid like the Manual AWD!), which is able to pro-actively "sense" impending slip by constantly and continuously monitoring and taking its inputs from various sensors that read the position of the throttle, the speed differentials between the various wheels through 4-wheel speed sensors, the specific gear you are in etc. and in association with analysis by a Micro-processor, proactively re-distributes torque by varying the clutch-pack lock-up before slip occurs. The beauty of this is that this happens un-obstrusively and continuously under differing road-conditions, and the user is insulated from the under-lying complexity of this advanced AWD system. In normal driving, it provides a slight rear-biased Torque split (45/55) which gives a slight RWD "feel". The other Auto Subarus provide a 90/10 torque split under normal driving conditions.
I still have not got hold of that technical article about the system. Let me dig a bit further. That is a lot more detailed and is thoroughly impressive.
Hope this helps.
Later...AH
After 6 months of reading the post, I finally got my 2002 VDC, so far, my experience has been very positive, love everything about the car except one minor thing(I hope). The car seems to be pulling to the right slightly. My dealer already checked it once and found alignment was off, got the car back but it's still doing it. Is anyone out there with this problem at the beginning?
Chat
Then the adjustment in that split is reactive, but if you think about it, it's less likely to slip in the first place.
The 45/55 VTD system is more sophisticated, for sure. The 90/10 basic auto AWD system feels more like FWD than the VC in the manuals, though, so I'd pick the VC between those two.
Chat: alignment is tricky to get right. It could also be the tires are out of round or unbalanced.
-juice
15" wheels I don't think can be mounted on the VDC, not due to the tire diamter problem, but due to the brakes not being cleared by 15" wheels. Also you can get 15" tires that will be the same diameter as the 16" ones, just more sidewall.
-mike
-juice
Arnie
Once the dealer got it right the car is just a dream to drive.
Hope this helps.
Paul H.
Anyone here buy in Chi-town?
-juice
Anyone know where I can surf to for such a part?
Thanks!
Ralph
http://www.subaru.co.uk/outback/6_1.htm
It has the ratios for both automatic and standard.
Now, if you pay attention, you'll see that the ratio on First for standard transmission is about 25% higher than automatic. This means that it has about 25% more torque on first!!!!
(30% more on 2nd
50% more on 3rd)
Has anybody testdriven both automatic and standard? Could you tell me if you see that much difference in starting torque?
Matias
(this is why i wish they had a standard transmission option on the 3.0L)
-juice
But given the options we have:
2.5L 166 lb.-ft. @4000 rpm (at the engine)
3.0L 210 lb.-ft. @4400 rpm (at the engine)
If you account for the difference in gear ratios, then we have:
166 lb.-ft. x 3.454 = 573 lb.-ft (at the wheels)
210 lb.-ft. x 2.785 = 585 lb.-ft (at the wheels)
Which is almost identical!
*note that this is for 1st. If we did the same for 2nd and 3rd, then the 2.5L standard would have even more torque than the 3.0L auto!!!
Now the difference comes when we take into account power. What i mean is this, eventhough they might have the same torque on 1st, the 3.0L has them at 212 hp. What this does is have it accelerate faster.
However, when towing uphill at a constant speed, or going off road into steep rocky hills, they should both perform pretty much the same. Since in neither one of these two cases we need acceleration, all we need is torque.
Now, here's my question. If you do the kind of driving mentioned above is it really worth it to spend almost 10,000 more?
I gotta say, these numbers make me think twice about the 3.0L. I think what it comes down to is more acceleration at the same torque, and smoother driving. But not much better, "SUV" type performance.
Please feel free to correct my numbers or theory, I might be wrong in my reasonning.
Matias
PS: I think i would still buy the VDC though, the smooth driving, acceleration, VDC, and other features make it a really attractive car.
We've been saying here for forever—give us a 5-speed automatic Subaru!
Bob
The first gear ratios are only part of the story. There is a reason that the input bit on an AT is called a torque converter. It allows the engine to spin higher than the numerical gear ratio would tell you. Eliminates the clutch, and lets the engine toil at higher RPMs in the fat part of the torque curve.
It is not a fixed connection, the converter lets the engine rev higher when needed. If you look at the tachometer of AT vs MT cars, they will both show the RPMs at 2500 or so (I'll let others supply the exact numbers) when starting out in first. As a matter of fact, the AT and torque converter will actually be able to put more torque to the rear wheels under conditions where the MT clutch is purposely slipped by the driver to get the same effect.
Steve
I always wanted to know how AT's worked in detail.
So you are saying that the mechanical gear ratio in an AT is not always the "true" torque convertion? (From the Engine to the wheels that is)
Do you know where i can read more about this?
Thanks!
Matias
-mike
Thanks,
Steve
Check out this great site on how ATs work:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm
Ken
I got it now.
(I feel pretty stupid now, I guess i should have known this stuff)
I would still like to see a 5 speed auto VDC.
matias
With one rail attached to the cross bars, you should also be able to attach a rig to hold your canoe. Again, a good bike shop should be able to help.
Don
Still, a 5 speed auto to go along with that H6 would make the $2150 price difference much easier to swallow.
-juice
Thanks,
Steve
HTH, Theo in Colo.
Maybe you could ask them how 150 lb-ft of torque is enough to push a 3,000+pound vehicle even though the tire radius is only about 1 foot. Then report back to us!
tidester
Host
SUVs
Weight is a vertical force.
Torque is an indication of how much force a rotating body can produce, tangential to its radius. Since the road is tangential to the wheels, this force translates to horizontal movement.
That's why you don't need to apply 3000+ lb to move a car. (Unless you want your car to lift itself up!)
Hope this helps.
matias
-mike
-Dave
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
and also, in the case of the outback, what sets the 2000lb towing weight limit? power, breaking, rear end structure, ...?
subaru doesn't differentiate between break assisted towing, so i guess i has to be either a power limitation, or a rear end integrity issue.
Matias
At 2000lbs there is no need for a towing package per-say on the subies,just put a hitch on and you are set.
-mike
Is that just a mistake in the site?
matias
matias/trocco took the words right out of my mouth!
revka - I'll check out the other forum, but I'll bet it's not as interesting and fun as these Subaru forums. Ya!
paisan - 3000 lbs of torque would be great, now how to lay it down onto the ground and put it to best use? 12 dozen tires?
Steve
-mike
Matias: I'm sure the sedan will accept the hitch. I have the OE hitch and the nice thing is the custom fit and the 7 sturdy bolts that attach it, plus the wiring harness comes with it. Aftermarket hitches from DrawTite and Hidden Hitch get the job done, usually with 4 bolts, but they cost half as much.
I do long for an actual complete package, though, with a tranny cooler and bigger brakes.
-juice
(paisan rubs it in for juice a bit, right up til we hit the gas pump)
-mike
-juice
Bob