Saw this on a Lexus dealership lot, and has me somewhat intrigued:
2005 Acura RL, in Denver 1,200 miles (that's right - I did not mistype and leave out a digit) Silver exterior, black leather No extras - everything is standard on the RL, including nav As expected with miles, I noticed no dings, scratches, etc.
This is probably a rare case where "excellent" condition is warranted, huh?
They're asking $43k. That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (if you could find one). I would think $40k might take it - what say you?
.. **Repost to get around all of the Nissan Maxima talk.
For my brother in San Francisco. 2005 Honda CR-V LX 2wd. Just a base CR-V with the normal stuff (ABS, power windows, steel wheels). No options. Black. 12,000 miles. No dents or scratches The interior is clean and still in good shape. Has the 4-cyclinder engine with the auto tranny. No accidents but it did have to have a window replaced (the drivers window, I think) after it was broken in to. No damage to the interior.** ================================
Good, I saw the auto thing ..... well, out there in Beaver country (not to be confused with Duck country.!) ... we got this little 05 CR-V LX, it's a base 2wd, good color for the area, the miles are a little on the tall side, but low for Kalifurnia where most folks drive 75 miles just to get a fresh Expresso or a glass of wine - you say it's in pretty good shape ......... no hits - no runs - no errors and no $2.00 car washes...? ... then trade side, in and around the low/mid $16's, might get super lucky and see a dealer wander towards the $17 figure because of the time of the year, big maybe .....
..**Saw this on a Lexus dealership lot, and has me somewhat intrigued: 2005 Acura RL, in Denver 1,200 miles (that's right - I did not mistype and leave out a digit) Silver exterior, black leather No extras - everything is standard on the RL, including nav As expected with miles, I noticed no dings, scratches, etc. This is probably a rare case where "excellent" condition is warranted, huh? They're asking $43k. That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (if you could find one). I would think $40k might take it - what say you? Thanks. ==========================
I always love that part of the conversation: "That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (IF you could find one)" ..... "IF" - that's a big word with only two letters ain't it.? ..l.o.l... IF my Uncle wore a dress he'd be my Aunt ....
Anywaaaaay, out there in John Elway territory .... my first question would be ~ why.? - not IF ...... many people trade many vehicles with new miles for many reasons .. maybe the Mrs didn't like the color, perhaps the guy didn't like the feel of the seats at 82 MPH, maybe she thought it was too long or too short, who knows.?? - but I would find out ....
Depending on were it came from, the dealer probably paid the mid/high $36ish range, maybe the low low $37ish figure for it ... figure a this and a that and it probably hits the table at the tall $37ish figure ..... $40.? .. start him at $39,5 (nicely) and see if you guys can meet in the middle .. I would think that somewhere between $40 and $41,0 you guys have a basis for doing some "Bidness" ......
Don't ya just love watching the weather on the news when it gets below 40 here in Florida? Bitter cold, cover up the plants, bring the dogs in, what a bunch of Florida weenies. We're gonna have a frost here in O-lando. Ha. As you can tell I'm from the north.
** I always love that part of the conversation: "That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (IF you could find one)" ..... "IF" - that's a big word with only two letters ain't it.? ..l.o.l... IF my Uncle wore a dress he'd be my Aunt .... **
============
Yeah, I know - that's not a terribly relevant statement I made. I was just trying to come up with some sort of basis on what the value of a nearly new '05 might be. The RL has been on my list to watch for used ones as they drop down into the $30's. I figured I'd wait a couple of years, but stretching a little may be worth it for this one, which is basically new.
Assuming, of course as you pointed out, that everything else checks out, and that some guy was forced to trade this in by his spouse who just had to have that GS 300 instead.
...**Yeah, I know - that's not a terribly relevant statement I made..**
Nah, it was very relevant and I understood what you meant and you're a legit buyer ..
I was just messing with myself and thinkin' about all the crazy folks that will come in and say stuff like: .. ""oh, I can buy an 05 G55 Mercedes for $65 - If I can find one.."" - yeah right, 300 in the country .. he'd have better luck finding the Blarney stone in Kansas City for that price ..l.o.l... .. Acura builds a nice vehicle, so let me know what happens ...
Here's one for irrelevant, altho I suppose it relates to delusional buyers & sellers:
In the mid (19) 70's, I was trying to buy a used keyboard from some guy. He wanted $200, & I offered $100 cash w/in 24 hours. He then started to tell me how he had a firm offer of $200, & so wouldn't budge. I asked, when's the guy showing up with the $200. He said, oh, the guy paying $200 doesn't have any money.....
... **he had a firm offer of $200, & so wouldn't budge. I asked, when's the guy showing up with the $200. He said, oh, the guy paying $200 doesn't have any money..... ** ...l.o.l....
That's a puuuuurfect example and dealers hear it aaaall the time ....
customer: "I was offered $10 grand for my trade from 3 different people"
dealer: "we can only offer you $7,000 .. Sooooo you'll be getting your $10 grand this week.?"
customer: "well ... no."
dealer: "aaah, why not ....?"
customer: "well .. the one guy has to sell his car first, my brother is going through a divorce .. and the other guy won't be back from Borneo for 2 months .."
dealer: "isn't that like me saying I *almost* won the lottery.??"
customer: "ah, well .. um, eh, but I was offered $10 grand ..."
dealer: "scuse me .. but my tee time is in 30 minutes, call us when the guy gets back from Borneo .."
Okay, Terry, moved here from the Questions thread... How lazy can I be?
Atlanta, GA 2003 Mustang GT Convertible Automatic RWD Mileage: 15,818 Color: black int/ext/top Major Options: leather seats, am/fm/cd, dual airbag, keyless entry, traction control, rear spoiler Condition: good
Purchased from Ford dealer at 15,772. One prior owner. Independent inspection prior to purchase showed no prior frame damage, a rear pinion seal leak, which the dealer fixed under warrantly, and a poorly-repainted, quarter-sized chip on the hood. I had the hood professionally repainted, and it's been garaged since purchase except for the 42 additional miles.
Tires/brakes are listed as "average" on the inspection report.
Hey Bill, long time no see! Still doing your thing in NJ? What happened to DAG? Kenny and your dad running it?
I want to get an idea of trade in pricing on two trucks:
Truck #1 - 2002 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab 2WD 3.0L V6 + automatic White with dk. grey cloth interior Chrome OEM wheels New Tires 47K miles AM FM CD Your typical power goodies throw in bed liner Needs front brakes No accidents, only a couple small dings and scratches (typical for a 4 yr old truck) In Metro Atlanta
Truck #2 - 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Std cab, short bed 2WD 41K miles 5.3L V8 with automatic Metallic red with grey cloth interior Every option available (OnStar, XM Satellite Radio, steering wheel audio controls, dual zone climate, fancy mirrors, you name it, it has it) New 17" wheels and tires Towing pkg (never used) Paint very nice but has a few rock chips in the hood and a total of two door dings) Maintained to perfection In Metro Atlanta
I do have a question on a used car: Los angeles 1992 Lexus LS400 4 door 6 cylinder, auto 150,000 miles white sunroof, leather AM/FM cassette cd changer "Clean inside and Out" "No accidents" "clean title" advertised for $3,650
Is this car going to be a bear to maintain? I have already given up on a used saab or volvo as too expensive to maintain/repair
**************************************************** Didn't you guys almost beat USC ..l.o.l...
Yikes.! ... where did you guys find this one.? ... there can't be more than a hundred of these dudes running around the hiways and byways of this beautiful country ..... it's a base, I mean a BASE .. no locks, no windows, no cruise .. gheez, I'd rather have hernia surgery, oop's just did .. plus we got that groovy tealish no-sale greenish color going for us ....
Well ............. it's "maybe" worth the $7ish figure on the trade side with the low miles and IF ~ you haven't bounced it off any cliffs and it's clean .. so, if we got the newer rubber, you finish any service, get with the Dukes of Detail and Dr. Ding, get some nice pics and do a real nice 5/6 liner Ad in the Big paper and their online service and: $9,950 *asking* and get ready to Rock & Roll at $8,5/$9,0 ..... this ain't no sacred cow, so don't let your ego get in the way ... if someone has CIF (Cash In Fist) take $8,0 .. this ain't no Apprentice, the low miles and the good rep save this one (hopefully) ....
I traded the MPV in on a 2006 CR-V today for my wife. Got the CR-V for about $500 over invoice and got $7000 for the van. A little lower than I hoped but I think very fair. I live out in the sticks and selling cars privately is very tough, so the trade worked well, especially since I also get the tax savings (about $630).
It's also really nice to have cruise again, not to mention ABS and side air bags.
I'm not a professional, but I kinda know from old cars...
There is NO WAY anybody can give you an accurate figure on any car of that age without laying hands on it.
I can answer a couple of your questions: IF it's been maintained -- a history two inches thick would be of help -- then it's the kind of car that could still run for a long time. Parts will NOT be cheap, and you'll need plenty of them, at least if you drive it every day.
Buy a car like that only if you really like it... and if you've got a spare car or other transportation for while it's in the shop for a week. It's gonna happen.
Pretty soon, it'll make no difference whether you paid $1 or $5 for it... your "other" costs will exceed the difference.
Mathias, I agree with you in general but if there is one car that can defy the odds about being 13 years/150K miles old and still be a very reliable daily driver, it's an LS.
Translation - if you must buy a 13 year old car, an LS is probably your best choice.
.. **Don't you ever sleep! Don't freeze tonite. We're expecting around 40 here in Coral Springs! **
I'll have plenty of time to sleep when I die ..l.o.l... you know it's cold when the steam off the pools looks like a black and white Dracula movie .....
.. **It's also really nice to have cruise again, not to mention ABS and side air bags ..**
The only bad thing is .. you'll have to start working out at the gym to keep them muscles you got from crankin' them windows up and down for all of these years, you probably look like Aaarnold by now ........... thanks for the update and I'm glad I could help ...
[..]if you must buy a 13 year old car, an LS is probably your best choice.
My daily driver -- when the missus lets me get away with it -- is a 15-year-old Civic. THAT is the type of car you want to buy if money is tight... dead reliable, and I can fix most things myself... which means even if you can't, any gas station can get you back on the road in a day or two.
The LS will be dead reliable as well, but whatever repairs and service might be needed will be a lot more involved. It's a great second car for the right person and will go as long as you want; if one came along in the right condition, I might buy one myself for a summer car. I just don't think it's a good choice for the amateur without financial reserves.
Case in point, my wife's '03 Sienna has not had one problem in the 3 years we've owned it... except that a week ago, the CD player went out. Electronics fail for everyone, and pretty much at the same rate. When the automatic climate control fails in the LS, I suspect that's a grand, and no hot or cold running air (= foggy windshield) until it's fixed.
This topic is near and dear to my heart. You can probably tell.
$3650 sounds like a great price on that car, if everything checks out. What you really need to do is find a Lexus specialist (not the dealer) to conduct a pre-purchase inspection to see if there could be any expensive repairs needed. Like Mathias said, most repairs on luxury cars are going to be expensive no matter what the brand. There aren't many replacement parts for 15 yr old Asian luxury cars lying around and many sub-systems like automatic HVAC controllers are going to be pricey or used and semi-pricey.
I'm sure in LA there are shops that just work on Lexus and a few other brands. Here in tha ATL we have a repair shop that only does Lexus and Infiniti. They have a stellar reputation and in-the-owners take their LS400's and Q45's to them. You need to find a shop like that. They might even have a line on well maintained LS400's for sale.
we have some insight here. We just spent $1100 for a few visual inspections, transmission fluid change, fuel/engine treatment, new belts, new spark plugs and wires, and an oil change at the Lexus dealer. The timing belt would have added another $1200 to that total. They also wanted to replace motor mounts, rear bushings, and brakes. Total bill would have been $4,000 had we let them do everything they recommended.
So, the LS is great if you are a DIY'er or if you know of a great independent shop. However, if you prefer dealer-maintained and you are on a budget then I would stay away from the LS. It is 13 years old and things will start wearing out as the car ages.
bretfraz: I am curious. What's the name of the independent shop in Atlanta. We had a so-so experience with an independent repair shop a few years ago with our GS. If you know of a different place that might be an option for the timing belt and bushings that we are going to replace on the LS.
The LS will be dead reliable as well, but whatever repairs and service might be needed will be a lot more involved.
If you are of the mindset that everything in the car must work right, and if it doesn't you must fix it, then certainly no 15 year old luxury car is for you, including the LS. But if you are a little more relaxed and as long as whatever breaks isn't critical you feel OK to not fix it, then you can certainly consider it. There aren't many cars on the market today that can match the LS in quality, fit/finish and refinement - even a 15 year old one
This topic is near and dear to my heart. You can probably tell.
And I respect you for it. It is the same for me too.
bretfraz: I am curious. What's the name of the independent shop in Atlanta. We had a so-so experience with an independent repair shop a few years ago with our GS. If you know of a different place that might be an option for the timing belt and bushings that we are going to replace on the LS.
T3 Automotive. Two locations. Can't find a website but they've been talked about on various Lexus and Infiniti forums.
Thanks for all the feedback re the cost of buying a 15 year old Lexus.
IS THIS ONE Significantly more practical???
Craigslist here in LA is a 93 Mazda MX6: Asking $2,400 118,000 miles automatic ssunroof leather new water pump, timing belt, and new transmission, cd & casette player
I have yet to see an MX6 that wasn't totally abused for a long time and is now a money pit. It should be obvious that they list a 'new transmission' that there could be some rough use or lack of maintenance issues at only 118K miles.
I highly doubt that they paid Mazda for a brand new transmission as well, but probably had a used rebuilt one put in.
BTW it is a $1500 car at best, maybe a little more in the LA market.
Yes, it probably will be a bear to maintain any 14 y.o. 150Kmile luxo-mobile. It "might be" cheaper to maintain a 14 y.o. LS400 than a 14 y.o. e-class or bmw 7-series, but I doubt it. I hear the electro-luminescent display on a Lexus costs $2K if it goes out. And if you can't afford to maintain an old Volvo, I wouldn't necessarily recommend an old Lexus.
If you really want to take on a high end, 14 y.o. car, I'd say, shop the indie repair shops in your area, before you pick a car. If there's a great Volvo shop close to you, or bmw, or whatever, that can make all the difference. And with a 150k mile car, look for one that has records up the wazoo, & a lot of stuff replaced-exhaust, shocks, timing belt, the more the better.
At that age, it may depend more on the individual car than the make, & again, your proximity to a great mechanic who specializes in that brand.
I've been looking at buying perhaps a 2002 or 2003 Tahoe Z71, but most (if not all?) have no 3rd row seat. It seems that only became an option in 2004 and beyond, I suppose when enough buyers screamed loud and long enough.
Anyway...does not having a 3rd row seat hurt the resale value on a Z71 Tahoe...? I really only use the 3rd row seat on my current Yukon about once a year, so I really doubt that I would miss it.
While we are on the subject of 2002/2003 Z71's...what are they doing at auctions these days? I am in the eastern panhandle WV (close to DC and Baltimore dealers)
T3 was the place we tried. Overall, it was an OK experience. Took them a while to get the part and one of the screws wasn't put back on the steering column. For half the price of the dealer though we aren't complaining too loud.
Translation - if you must buy a 13 year old car, an LS is probably your best choice.
At that age and mileage, I think that I would much rather have a Buick Park Avenue or that ilk as the cost of parts would be far less and readily available.
I kept my LS400 until it had well over 200,000 on the clock. It was a great reliable car that not once left me stranded. I initially maintained it at a Lexus dealer, but found a very good indepedent Lexus specialist when the car got on in years. The independent indeed saved me a lot of money.
An LS400 with 150K sounds like a car with a lot of life left in it assuming it has been well-maintained. The MX6 and Park Avenue look like garbage next to even an old LS400, although they might be cheaper to run.
To give you some peace of mind on the Lexus, I know that the drivetrains are bulletproof. You can expect 250K minimum on the transmission. I know someone who had an LS with 430K on an original engine and transmission. Some so-so American car will certainly have cheaper parts but if it kicks up a tranny, you'll be out at least $1500. That being said, I did see repair bills of $1000-$2000 at least once a year as the car approached 200K. Be careful of:
Worn shocks/struts, particularly if they're on models with Air Suspension Temperature/Clock LCD Display Power Steering Pumps Rear Knuckle Bushings Upper Control Arms, Lower Ball Joints AC Problems (very common) EGR pipes Alternators
These are all minor problems but they can add up. A 93 LS with a good service history should have some of these things taken care of.
That being said, I did see repair bills of $1000-$2000 at least once a year as the car approached 200K.
That makes my point EXACTLY. When things go wrong - and they do with all vehicles as they approach 200k - it costs a mint to repair EVEN when using a "LEXUS expert". Therefore, it is hardly an inexpensive "bulletproof" car.
A Lexus vehicle with 160k that you are buying from a THIRD PARTY will be a costly commute car ... especially if tghe maintenance has been deferred.
Please advise an approximate range a Chevy dealer in southern Louisiana is likely to quote me on a trade-in value for my 1992 Corvette. First of all, let me point out that I bought the car used (I believe I am the 3rd or 4th owner), and I do have the title. When I bought the car, I noticed it had ZR1 markings on it, but there are several things about it that are not standard ZR1 features. For example, instead of an LT5 engine (more powerful with over 400 hp), it has the base LT1 engine...and instead of being a manual (as all ZR1's were manufactured), it is an automatic. It's brake light is also below the hatchback window, not above it. However, when I raised these issues to the previous owner before purchasing it, he explained that the original owner supposedly had a ZR1 custom-made with automatic transmission and an LT1 engine for his daughter. The rest of the interior is like that of a ZR1. The reason I point this out is because it makes a HUGE difference in trade-in value (according to most sources) whether it is a ZR1 or just a base model. The car is marked as a ZR1 on the outside, but its VIN # indicates that it was made with only the base LT1 engine. Still, if one is to believe that the owner had it custom-made that way, then it can still be claimed as a custom-built ZR1. Otherwise, I suppose only the trade-in value of a standard Vette would apply. Any suggestions on how to approach the dealer about this, or should I not mention it at all and see what they offer? It has 125,000 miles, removable hard-top roof panel, white color, alloy wheels with wheel locks, and leather interior. The interior is in good shape, although the passenger side power seat controls do not work and the stereo system doesn't work. The driver side power seat works fine. I do not smoke, and the car smells good and I keep it clean. Brake pads have been replaced recently and work well, and the tires still have some life on them. I also have a full-size expensive spare tire I will give at trade-in. The paint is chipping on the front bumper and has some minor blemishes on other parts of the car. No major mechanical problems exist at the moment, and it has been maintained well with regular oil changes. I also had the A/C fixed on it once, andthe battery was replaced last summer. The rear power antenna doesn't fully retract, and some of it stays poking out some. The engine runs good, and still has a lot of pep and go. Fuel economy varies, but it gets about 17 mpg city average. It had not been involved in any accidents under my ownership. As far as previous owners, I am not certain. Under Kelly Blue Book's definition of vehicle condition, I would consider this car to be in "Fair" condition. But that can mean that it could go from anywhere in between about $3,500 (base LT1 Vette) and $11,000 (LT5 engine ZR1). And that's a HUGE difference. Furthermore, if it was--in fact--a special rare custom-made automatic ZR1 with reduced horses, being a rarity may even make it worth more instead of less. But my best guess is that I probably won't be able to fetch any more than about $5,000 for this car, if we consider that it is in "Fair" condition as defined by KBB. What is your opinion?
It isn't a ZR1. Even if Chevy actually made it as yo see it (as opposed to an earlier owner doing a cosmetic clone job), all the money in that car is the engine, which you don't have.
In any case, expect to get severly low balled by a dealer, since most dealers will want nothing to do with a 125K Vette with some needs.
I would try to sell this thing private sale, but don't get too greedy, and be careful how you advertise it (that is, what claims you make).
I'll bet it ain't a real ZR-1. One easy way to check - look at the VIN.
They all start with "1G1YZ2...."
1 = Made in USA G = Made by GM 1 = Chevrolet Division Y = Corvette Z = ZR1 (no Z here, it's not a real ZR-1) 2 = 2 door liftback (a 3 here means it was a convertible) 3 = manual seatbelts and airbags J = LT5 engine (if this is a P, its an LT1 engine)
The rest of the digits related to production year, production sequence and plant location.
The VIN is located in several places on the car. At least, make sure they are all the same. At the very least the VIN should have a "YZ" in it and a "J", signifying that the car is a ZR-1 with an LT5 engine. That's what makes the car the real deal. Without an LT5 all you have is a dressed up Corvette and should be priced accordingly. A faux ZR-1 is probably valued a good bit *below* an honest LT1 "normal" Corvette, not to mention below a real ZR-1.
Sharp car black with tan interior every option for the year. Has had some paint work on the fenders/hood that the owner did not know about so probably happend at port since he is the original owner.
I trust the guy to so he honestly did not know about the paint work.
Has 37,000 miles on it and we are in CT so rear wheel drive car in the winter issues as well.
Whats the trade in value and/or private party resale value you think?
I have to agree with the others, it sounds like a ~relatively~ cheap clone of a ZR1. Obviously someone ordered the decals from the dealer, and found some ZR1 seats from a junkyard (or take-offs from another ZR1), and viola...instant "custom" ZR1.
Back in my college days when I was a "poor" student, I did the same with my regular, plain old Firebird. Ordered the Formula decals from the Pontiac dealer, and I found a wrap-around spoiler from a junkyard. Hey, it looked like a Formula at least, even though it still had that stupid anemic V6 engine
How'd you find out about the paint work? I almost bought a used E-39 5-series from a guy a few years ago, then he let it slip that the whole door had been repainted, & it happened during shipping, & he had a lawsuit going vs. bmw.
Even great body/paint work can affect the value on a car like this drastically (I found out the hard way). What's he asking?
He is a customer of mine who is trying to trade in his BMW on a New Range Rover. I am just working on getting a little back ground info to help convince him what the car is really worth.
Our wholesaler happend to be here the day he brought his car in to be looked at and found the paint work. I don't think anyone else would have noticed it.
Even great body/paint work can affect the value on a car like this drastically (I found out the hard way).
My problem has always been finding somebody who can do great body/paint work. I have a theory about that--$38-45 an hour is not enough to operate a body shop profitably without cutting corners, but that's the rate demanded by insurance companies, at least for this area.
This 2004 Acura MDX was just traded in here on a new Infiniti. This Acura is Aspen White Pearl and has the Saddle leather interior and has very low miles of only 22k. The Car Fax shows a accident report but no damage was done to the Acura, also I have a used vehicle condition disclosure available that shows this is a one owner and the previous owner states that this vehicle had not had any body work during ownership.
What date was the accident report in AL--around the time of hurricane katrina? More important, how would the carfax affect the value if you go to sell it at some point? You might have a lot of splainin' to do.
Comments
Car is silver with black interior. Outside is clean but with a couple of minor door dings. Inside is clean as well. Has 42,000 miles.
Tires are in good shape with about 10,000 miles on them. All scheduled maintenance done. No accidents.
Located in Southern California.
TL-S all configured the same way except option for Nav which I don't have.
Dealer offered $16,500 which seemed light to me - wanted to trade on Infinit M35.
Is the dealer accurate or is it worth more?
Thanks for your help.
2005 Acura RL, in Denver
1,200 miles (that's right - I did not mistype and leave out a digit)
Silver exterior, black leather
No extras - everything is standard on the RL, including nav
As expected with miles, I noticed no dings, scratches, etc.
This is probably a rare case where "excellent" condition is warranted, huh?
They're asking $43k. That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (if you could find one). I would think $40k might take it - what say you?
Thanks.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
For my brother in San Francisco.
2005 Honda CR-V LX 2wd.
Just a base CR-V with the normal stuff (ABS, power windows, steel wheels). No options.
Black. 12,000 miles. No dents or scratches The interior is clean and still in good shape.
Has the 4-cyclinder engine with the auto tranny.
No accidents but it did have to have a window replaced (the drivers window, I think) after it was broken in to. No damage to the interior.**
================================
Good, I saw the auto thing ..... well, out there in Beaver country (not to be confused with Duck country.!) ... we got this little 05 CR-V LX, it's a base 2wd, good color for the area, the miles are a little on the tall side, but low for Kalifurnia where most folks drive 75 miles just to get a fresh Expresso or a glass of wine - you say it's in pretty good shape ......... no hits - no runs - no errors and no $2.00 car washes...? ... then trade side, in and around the low/mid $16's, might get super lucky and see a dealer wander towards the $17 figure because of the time of the year, big maybe .....
don't forget the update ...........
Terry.
2005 Acura RL, in Denver
1,200 miles (that's right - I did not mistype and leave out a digit)
Silver exterior, black leather
No extras - everything is standard on the RL, including nav
As expected with miles, I noticed no dings, scratches, etc.
This is probably a rare case where "excellent" condition is warranted, huh?
They're asking $43k. That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (if you could find one). I would think $40k might take it - what say you?
Thanks.
==========================
I always love that part of the conversation: "That's about what a new '05 is going for I believe (IF you could find one)" ..... "IF" - that's a big word with only two letters ain't it.? ..l.o.l... IF my Uncle wore a dress he'd be my Aunt ....
Anywaaaaay, out there in John Elway territory .... my first question would be ~ why.? - not IF ...... many people trade many vehicles with new miles for many reasons .. maybe the Mrs didn't like the color, perhaps the guy didn't like the feel of the seats at 82 MPH, maybe she thought it was too long or too short, who knows.?? - but I would find out ....
Depending on were it came from, the dealer probably paid the mid/high $36ish range, maybe the low low $37ish figure for it ... figure a this and a that and it probably hits the table at the tall $37ish figure ..... $40.? .. start him at $39,5 (nicely) and see if you guys can meet in the middle .. I would think that somewhere between $40 and $41,0 you guys have a basis for doing some "Bidness" ......
Don't forget to let me know what HAPPENS .......
Terry.
The Sandman
Sorry for going off topic, I'll shut up now.
============
Yeah, I know - that's not a terribly relevant statement I made. I was just trying to come up with some sort of basis on what the value of a nearly new '05 might be. The RL has been on my list to watch for used ones as they drop down into the $30's. I figured I'd wait a couple of years, but stretching a little may be worth it for this one, which is basically new.
Assuming, of course as you pointed out, that everything else checks out, and that some guy was forced to trade this in by his spouse who just had to have that GS 300 instead.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
Nah, it was very relevant and I understood what you meant and you're a legit buyer ..
I was just messing with myself and thinkin' about all the crazy folks that will come in and say stuff like: .. ""oh, I can buy an 05 G55 Mercedes for $65 - If I can find one.."" - yeah right, 300 in the country .. he'd have better luck finding the Blarney stone in Kansas City for that price ..l.o.l... .. Acura builds a nice vehicle, so let me know what happens ...
Terry.
In the mid (19) 70's, I was trying to buy a used keyboard from some guy. He wanted $200, & I offered $100 cash w/in 24 hours. He then started to tell me how he had a firm offer of $200, & so wouldn't budge. I asked, when's the guy showing up with the $200. He said, oh, the guy paying $200 doesn't have any money.....
Silver Exterior
Interior
4-door
$42,981
1,198 miles
Automatic Transmission
6 cylinders
VIN: JH4KB16585C014101
Stock# 96054A
Lexus Dealer's name removed
6160 S Broadway
Littleton CO
Any information available for this guy from the VIN?
That's a puuuuurfect example and dealers hear it aaaall the time ....
customer: "I was offered $10 grand for my trade from 3 different people"
dealer: "we can only offer you $7,000 .. Sooooo you'll be getting your $10 grand this week.?"
customer: "well ... no."
dealer: "aaah, why not ....?"
customer: "well .. the one guy has to sell his car first, my brother is going through a divorce .. and the other guy won't be back from Borneo for 2 months .."
dealer: "isn't that like me saying I *almost* won the lottery.??"
customer: "ah, well .. um, eh, but I was offered $10 grand ..."
dealer: "scuse me .. but my tee time is in 30 minutes, call us when the guy gets back from Borneo .."
Terry :P
Atlanta, GA
2003 Mustang GT Convertible
Automatic RWD
Mileage: 15,818
Color: black int/ext/top
Major Options: leather seats, am/fm/cd, dual airbag, keyless entry, traction control, rear spoiler
Condition: good
Purchased from Ford dealer at 15,772. One prior owner. Independent inspection prior to purchase showed no prior frame damage, a rear pinion seal leak, which the dealer fixed under warrantly, and a poorly-repainted, quarter-sized chip on the hood. I had the hood professionally repainted, and it's been garaged since purchase except for the 42 additional miles.
Tires/brakes are listed as "average" on the inspection report.
Mark
I want to get an idea of trade in pricing on two trucks:
Truck #1 -
2002 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab
2WD
3.0L V6 + automatic
White with dk. grey cloth interior
Chrome OEM wheels
New Tires
47K miles
AM FM CD
Your typical power goodies
throw in bed liner
Needs front brakes
No accidents, only a couple small dings and scratches (typical for a 4 yr old truck)
In Metro Atlanta
Truck #2 -
2004 GMC Sierra 1500
Std cab, short bed
2WD
41K miles
5.3L V8 with automatic
Metallic red with grey cloth interior
Every option available (OnStar, XM Satellite Radio, steering wheel audio controls, dual zone climate, fancy mirrors, you name it, it has it)
New 17" wheels and tires
Towing pkg (never used)
Paint very nice but has a few rock chips in the hood and a total of two door dings)
Maintained to perfection
In Metro Atlanta
Thanks for everything!!!
I do have a question on a used car:
Los angeles
1992 Lexus LS400
4 door
6 cylinder, auto
150,000 miles
white
sunroof, leather
AM/FM cassette cd changer
"Clean inside and Out" "No accidents" "clean title"
advertised for $3,650
Is this car going to be a bear to maintain?
I have already given up on a used saab or volvo as too expensive to maintain/repair
Thanks for your input
Didn't you guys almost beat USC ..l.o.l...
Yikes.! ... where did you guys find this one.? ... there can't be more than a hundred of these dudes running around the hiways and byways of this beautiful country ..... it's a base, I mean a BASE .. no locks, no windows, no cruise .. gheez, I'd rather have hernia surgery, oop's just did .. plus we got that groovy tealish no-sale greenish color going for us ....
Well ............. it's "maybe" worth the $7ish figure on the trade side with the low miles and IF ~ you haven't bounced it off any cliffs and it's clean .. so, if we got the newer rubber, you finish any service, get with the Dukes of Detail and Dr. Ding, get some nice pics and do a real nice 5/6 liner Ad in the Big paper and their online service and: $9,950 *asking* and get ready to Rock & Roll at $8,5/$9,0 ..... this ain't no sacred cow, so don't let your ego get in the way ... if someone has CIF (Cash In Fist) take $8,0 .. this ain't no Apprentice, the low miles and the good rep save this one (hopefully) ....
Don't forget to let me know ....
Terry.
*******************************************************
I traded the MPV in on a 2006 CR-V today for my wife. Got the CR-V for about $500 over invoice and got $7000 for the van. A little lower than I hoped but I think very fair. I live out in the sticks and selling cars privately is very tough, so the trade worked well, especially since I also get the tax savings (about $630).
It's also really nice to have cruise again, not to mention ABS and side air bags.
Thanks for your help, it was right on as usual.
There is NO WAY anybody can give you an accurate figure on any car of that age without laying hands on it.
I can answer a couple of your questions: IF it's been maintained -- a history two inches thick would be of help -- then it's the kind of car that could still run for a long time. Parts will NOT be cheap, and you'll need plenty of them, at least if you drive it every day.
Buy a car like that only if you really like it... and if you've got a spare car or other transportation for while it's in the shop for a week. It's gonna happen.
Pretty soon, it'll make no difference whether you paid $1 or $5 for it... your "other" costs will exceed the difference.
It's 14 years old. This ain't no Corolla.
-Mathias
Translation - if you must buy a 13 year old car, an LS is probably your best choice.
I'll have plenty of time to sleep when I die ..l.o.l... you know it's cold when the steam off the pools looks like a black and white Dracula movie .....
Terry.
The only bad thing is .. you'll have to start working out at the gym to keep them muscles you got from crankin' them windows up and down for all of these years, you probably look like Aaarnold by now ........... thanks for the update and I'm glad I could help ...
Terry :shades:
My daily driver -- when the missus lets me get away with it -- is a 15-year-old Civic. THAT is the type of car you want to buy if money is tight... dead reliable, and I can fix most things myself... which means even if you can't, any gas station can get you back on the road in a day or two.
The LS will be dead reliable as well, but whatever repairs and service might be needed will be a lot more involved. It's a great second car for the right person and will go as long as you want; if one came along in the right condition, I might buy one myself for a summer car. I just don't think it's a good choice for the amateur without financial reserves.
Case in point, my wife's '03 Sienna has not had one problem in the 3 years we've owned it... except that a week ago, the CD player went out. Electronics fail for everyone, and pretty much at the same rate. When the automatic climate control fails in the LS, I suspect that's a grand, and no hot or cold running air (= foggy windshield) until it's fixed.
This topic is near and dear to my heart. You can probably tell.
-Mathias
Terry.
I'm sure in LA there are shops that just work on Lexus and a few other brands. Here in tha ATL we have a repair shop that only does Lexus and Infiniti. They have a stellar reputation and in-the-owners take their LS400's and Q45's to them. You need to find a shop like that. They might even have a line on well maintained LS400's for sale.
So, the LS is great if you are a DIY'er or if you know of a great independent shop. However, if you prefer dealer-maintained and you are on a budget then I would stay away from the LS. It is 13 years old and things will start wearing out as the car ages.
bretfraz: I am curious. What's the name of the independent shop in Atlanta. We had a so-so experience with an independent repair shop a few years ago with our GS. If you know of a different place that might be an option for the timing belt and bushings that we are going to replace on the LS.
If you are of the mindset that everything in the car must work right, and if it doesn't you must fix it, then certainly no 15 year old luxury car is for you, including the LS.
But if you are a little more relaxed and as long as whatever breaks isn't critical you feel OK to not fix it, then you can certainly consider it.
There aren't many cars on the market today that can match the LS in quality, fit/finish and refinement - even a 15 year old one
This topic is near and dear to my heart. You can probably tell.
And I respect you for it. It is the same for me too.
T3 Automotive. Two locations. Can't find a website but they've been talked about on various Lexus and Infiniti forums.
Also, http://www.ozzis.com/index.html
IS THIS ONE Significantly more practical???
Craigslist here in LA is a 93 Mazda MX6:
Asking $2,400
118,000 miles
automatic
ssunroof
leather
new water pump, timing belt, and new transmission,
cd & casette player
Opinions, please, and thanx!
I highly doubt that they paid Mazda for a brand new transmission as well, but probably had a used rebuilt one put in.
BTW it is a $1500 car at best, maybe a little more in the LA market.
Yes, it probably will be a bear to maintain any 14 y.o. 150Kmile luxo-mobile. It "might be" cheaper to maintain a 14 y.o. LS400 than a 14 y.o. e-class or bmw 7-series, but I doubt it. I hear the electro-luminescent display on a Lexus costs $2K if it goes out. And if you can't afford to maintain an old Volvo, I wouldn't necessarily recommend an old Lexus.
If you really want to take on a high end, 14 y.o. car, I'd say, shop the indie repair shops in your area, before you pick a car. If there's a great Volvo shop close to you, or bmw, or whatever, that can make all the difference. And with a 150k mile car, look for one that has records up the wazoo, & a lot of stuff replaced-exhaust, shocks, timing belt, the more the better.
At that age, it may depend more on the individual car than the make, & again, your proximity to a great mechanic who specializes in that brand.
just my 2 cents, woody
Anyway...does not having a 3rd row seat hurt the resale value on a Z71 Tahoe...? I really only use the 3rd row seat on my current Yukon about once a year, so I really doubt that I would miss it.
While we are on the subject of 2002/2003 Z71's...what are they doing at auctions these days? I am in the eastern panhandle WV (close to DC and Baltimore dealers)
Not certified, not touring, no navigation, no DVD.
No damage, looks great in and good out, tires good.
Just your basic nice SUV with 81,000 big miles.
They are offering it at $18,400. How much will they take?
At that age and mileage, I think that I would much rather have a Buick Park Avenue or that ilk as the cost of parts would be far less and readily available.
An LS400 with 150K sounds like a car with a lot of life left in it assuming it has been well-maintained. The MX6 and Park Avenue look like garbage next to even an old LS400, although they might be cheaper to run.
To give you some peace of mind on the Lexus, I know that the drivetrains are bulletproof. You can expect 250K minimum on the transmission. I know someone who had an LS with 430K on an original engine and transmission. Some so-so American car will certainly have cheaper parts but if it kicks up a tranny, you'll be out at least $1500.
That being said, I did see repair bills of $1000-$2000 at least once a year as the car approached 200K. Be careful of:
Worn shocks/struts, particularly if they're on models with Air Suspension
Temperature/Clock LCD Display
Power Steering Pumps
Rear Knuckle Bushings
Upper Control Arms, Lower Ball Joints
AC Problems (very common)
EGR pipes
Alternators
These are all minor problems but they can add up.
A 93 LS with a good service history should have some of these things taken care of.
That makes my point EXACTLY. When things go wrong - and they do with all vehicles as they approach 200k - it costs a mint to repair EVEN when using a "LEXUS expert". Therefore, it is hardly an inexpensive "bulletproof" car.
A Lexus vehicle with 160k that you are buying from a THIRD PARTY will be a costly commute car ... especially if tghe maintenance has been deferred.
In any case, expect to get severly low balled by a dealer, since most dealers will want nothing to do with a 125K Vette with some needs.
I would try to sell this thing private sale, but don't get too greedy, and be careful how you advertise it (that is, what claims you make).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
They all start with "1G1YZ2...."
1 = Made in USA
G = Made by GM
1 = Chevrolet Division
Y = Corvette
Z = ZR1 (no Z here, it's not a real ZR-1)
2 = 2 door liftback (a 3 here means it was a convertible)
3 = manual seatbelts and airbags
J = LT5 engine (if this is a P, its an LT1 engine)
The rest of the digits related to production year, production sequence and plant location.
The VIN is located in several places on the car. At least, make sure they are all the same. At the very least the VIN should have a "YZ" in it and a "J", signifying that the car is a ZR-1 with an LT5 engine. That's what makes the car the real deal. Without an LT5 all you have is a dressed up Corvette and should be priced accordingly. A faux ZR-1 is probably valued a good bit *below* an honest LT1 "normal" Corvette, not to mention below a real ZR-1.
Hope all this helps!
I trust the guy to so he honestly did not know about the paint work.
Has 37,000 miles on it and we are in CT so rear wheel drive car in the winter issues as well.
Whats the trade in value and/or private party resale value you think?
Back in my college days when I was a "poor" student, I did the same with my regular, plain old Firebird. Ordered the Formula decals from the Pontiac dealer, and I found a wrap-around spoiler from a junkyard. Hey, it looked like a Formula at least, even though it still had that stupid anemic V6 engine
Even great body/paint work can affect the value on a car like this drastically (I found out the hard way). What's he asking?
Our wholesaler happend to be here the day he brought his car in to be looked at and found the paint work. I don't think anyone else would have noticed it.
My problem has always been finding somebody who can do great body/paint work. I have a theory about that--$38-45 an hour is not enough to operate a body shop profitably without cutting corners, but that's the rate demanded by insurance companies, at least for this area.
No navigation or touring package.
Ebay auction
Assuming this guy's story is true, what is this worth, and what would it be worth with a squeaky clean carfax?