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Comments
To fix a broken wire: splice & tape is minimal repair, you could also solder or use crimp style connectors.
If your high mounted LED light works, it means that the brake switch and the wire all the way from the front to the back are good. This is good...
According to the wiring diagram there is a white wire that feeds all 3 - you need to find where the white wire that feeds the top LED connects to the other 2 white wires that go to the lower stop lamps. It may take a little detective work but I think you;ll find your problem there...the spot is very likely up high where the LED is...take the LED off and look behind it, it might be right there...Once you find it, repair it and you should be good to go...good luck, post back, I'll keep an eye out...
John
I will research this tomorrow morning, This was my last effort before taking it in. I enjoy doing things myself until they reach the point that I don't know enough. It really sounds like you know you stuff inside and out, thanks again! I will let you know how things go.
Let me know how you do....
TSB #03-08-42-007A - (Jan 9, 2004)
Tail Lamp/Brake Lamp Bulb Inoperative (Replace Bulb and/or Circuit Board)
2000-2004 Chevrolet Venture
2000-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette
2000-2004 Pontiac Montana
Revised to add model years (from 03-08-42-007).
Condition
Some customers may comment that the upper left hand or right hand tail lamp/brake lamp bulb is inoperative.
Cause
This condition may be the result of moisture entering the lamp housing and changing the bulbs resistance, causing the bulb to burn out and or melting the circuit board.
Correction
Replace the burned out bulb and the circuit board if needed. Apply dielectric lubricant or dielectric grease to the left hand and right hand tail lamp bulb terminals.
Parts Info
Part # Description
12377900 (10953529 in Canada) Dielectric Lubricant
12345579 Dielectric Silicone Grease
12533713 Circuit Board-Left
12533714 Circuit Board-Right
9441839 Bulb
Thanks again for all you info, I will let you know what the verdict is.
John
I checked fuses. Any ideas? Am I missing something?
Mine did this too. Check the aux power fuse and the cig lighter fuse. The computer portion of the ECU is powered through one of these. I found part of a staple in mine that was blowing the fuse.
thanks!
I just got a Honda Odyssey and hooked up my 3500 pound travel trailer to it and got a SHOCKING 9 miles per gallon! I really thought I'd get 14-15.
I welcome any information; I am really needing this info because I don't want to change vehicles AGAIN if the mileage is the same as the Odessey.
We are on the road right now! We started out in PA and started our trek to the Pacific coast. The mileage was so bad with the trailer, we dropped off the 3300 pound trailer in Ohio at a storage facility because our trip was going to cost $2400 in gas alone because of the 9 mpg.
Thanks everyone! -Tony
Has anyone out there ever had this happen before? We have 125k on it, and "knock on wood", we haven't really had any other problems with it. I also have to replace the outer tie rod on the passengers side.
I have no idea what a rear cylinder is...do you mean the rear shocks? Do you mean a rear wheel cylinder? Muffler or resonator? I suppose the fuel tank might be considered a "fuel cylinder" although I don't think I'd describe it as cylindrical in shape?
If you can point us in the right direction, I'm sure we can figure out what's rattling...where is it located? Near a wheel? Near the muffler or tailpipe? Side? Center? Low/high? If you think the loose tubing (whatever it might be) is making the rattling, temporarily secure it to something with duct tape and drive it around. If the rattle is gone, you found the culprit...otherwise, hopefully with a better description of what's rattling, we'll figure out how to make it stop...nothing more annoying than a rattle in a car....
the cylinder I am talking about is right behind (or connected to) the rear wheel - a brake drum possibly? The tubing connects right to that, so maybe its some kind of break line, but I'm not sure, since I've never dealt with them before. The rattling noise is definitely coming from the rear of the vehicleAnyway, the duct tape idea will work to check it out. Once again, apologies for being unclear, and many thanks for any and all info. -jp
Sounds like you're talking about a brake line...you might want to follow it a little bit and see where it leads you. You might find a broken clip..
Also, don't forget to check on the other side as well. There is a line that goes to each wheel and I bet that if the other side had a broken clip it would make the very same noise. Once again, follow it and see where it leads you, you might find the problem.
Let me know how you make out with the duct tape test. If need be, I'll lay under our Venture and look for stuff that could be causing the noise...anything metal bouncing off of anything else metal could be causing it as well.
I'm having some problems with my 2003 Venture. I jump started someone a few nights ago, and ever since, when attempting to start the engine, it's acted like it's had a problem getting enough power from the battery to turn over. This continued getting worse (having a harder time starting) for the next few days, until yesterday it just stopped starting altogether.
Now, the lights will come on inside; the dash will light up, headlights work, etc. But when I attempt to start the engine all this dies / drains, and instead of starting there is a clicking sound followed by a faint "churning" or whizzing sound.
I've cleaned the battery contacts, made sure the battery is charged to full, tried jump starting it, etc. and nothing has been successful so far. I *think* I located the starter behind the radiator and near the bottom, and jiggled the apparent contacts there to make sure they weren't loose - nothing there, either.
I do not know how to proceed from here, so anyone with an idea / experience would be appreciated. Thanks.
Update: I tried pulling all of the fuses that had to do with Ign or Battery, then waiting about 30 seconds and re-inserting them. When I tried to start the engine, the same thing as before happened, except I noticed that when I turned the key to the "on" position, there was the churning sound I mentioned earlier. I did this a few times to test it - now the van acts as if the battery is completely dead; no lights, dash, anything of the sort.
Also, now, when I turned the key to "off" it makes the churning sound for a few seconds awhile the speedometer and other gauges twitch around slightly, before falling limp as the churning sound ends.
It shouldn't be too hard to replace yourself. Check around and see if it is more cost effective to have it rebuilt or to buy another one.
You can also remove it and take to an Autozone or some other parts store. Most will check it for free.
Let me know what you find out.
I have a 2001 Venture and my ABS and Traction control lights are on. Any suggestions before I spend a bunch at a garage for a diagnosis? Any way to temporarily shut them off for a day?
Another way to put it is that there are three results when you hook you computer up to a computer:
Pass (light is off);
Fail (light is on);
Not Enough Info (light is off).
If you "turn it off," you'll just put it in "Not Enough Info" mode and they'll tell you to come back.
-Tony
If you determine that the starter needs to be replaced, don't bother trying to rebuild it, just replace it.
I just found out that my left rear hub assembly needs to be replaced. I have changed my front ones, is the rear ones harder? Any information or advise would be great.
Thanks again!!
:shades:
Thanks again.
FYI, I only take one side apart at a time so I can reference the one that's still together. Check your other side if you haven't taken it apart.
-Tony
I did get it back together after referencing the other side. Just one other question, I also replaced the cylinder and a section of brake line. One finished I bled the one side only and when finished I still don't have any brake pedal, do I have to bleed all four tires or just the back two?
Working on my control arm bushings today, I can only get the horizontal bushing 3/4 of the way in, any suggestions???
Installation
8. Position the control arm in the subframe and install the pivot bolt and the vertical
bushing bolt. Do not tighten them completely at this time.
9. Insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle boss, install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If necessary, tighten the nut a little more if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up with an openirrg on the nut. Install a new cotter pin.
10. Install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm link bolt, bushings, spacers and washers (see Section 6) and tighten the link nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
11. Place a floor jack under the outer end of the control arm and raise it to simulate normal ride height. Now tighten the control arm pivot bolt and the vertical bushing bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
Caution: If the bolts aren't tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension (or the control arm raised to simulate normal ride
height), control arm bushing damage may occur.
12. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
Be sure you run the engine for at least 10 seconds after you bleed the brakes (which you may already know) and be sure the fluid level is good.
Also, the manual says if you still have a lot of play after bleeding the lines, start the engine for 10 seconds and then turn off WITHOUT depressing the brake pedal and do this 5 consecutive times. This should dislodge any air trapped in the ABS modulator. Then repeat the bleeding proceedure.
The manual also says NEVER use old fluid because it contains some moisture (which can be compressed and boils).
-Tony
I have bled them several times but this information is very useful.