To fix a broken wire: splice & tape is minimal repair, you could also solder or use crimp style connectors.
If your high mounted LED light works, it means that the brake switch and the wire all the way from the front to the back are good. This is good...
According to the wiring diagram there is a white wire that feeds all 3 - you need to find where the white wire that feeds the top LED connects to the other 2 white wires that go to the lower stop lamps. It may take a little detective work but I think you;ll find your problem there...the spot is very likely up high where the LED is...take the LED off and look behind it, it might be right there...Once you find it, repair it and you should be good to go...good luck, post back, I'll keep an eye out...
I will research this tomorrow morning, This was my last effort before taking it in. I enjoy doing things myself until they reach the point that I don't know enough. It really sounds like you know you stuff inside and out, thanks again! I will let you know how things go.
If you like working on the Venture then the Haynes book for it is a must...check it out...was the best 20 bucks I ever spent...some things on the Venture are a little quirky and different than what you're used to, helps to have a reference book.
Did a little extra research and found a TSB for the problem youre having - apparently there's also an issue with the connectors for each of the brake lights. Here's the TSB:
TSB #03-08-42-007A - (Jan 9, 2004) Tail Lamp/Brake Lamp Bulb Inoperative (Replace Bulb and/or Circuit Board) 2000-2004 Chevrolet Venture 2000-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette 2000-2004 Pontiac Montana Revised to add model years (from 03-08-42-007).
Condition Some customers may comment that the upper left hand or right hand tail lamp/brake lamp bulb is inoperative.
Cause This condition may be the result of moisture entering the lamp housing and changing the bulbs resistance, causing the bulb to burn out and or melting the circuit board.
Correction Replace the burned out bulb and the circuit board if needed. Apply dielectric lubricant or dielectric grease to the left hand and right hand tail lamp bulb terminals.
Parts Info Part # Description 12377900 (10953529 in Canada) Dielectric Lubricant 12345579 Dielectric Silicone Grease 12533713 Circuit Board-Left 12533714 Circuit Board-Right 9441839 Bulb
Didn't have much luck this morning, decided to take it into the shop. I don't have alot of the tools required to work on electronics so I figured I bring it in and see what they could find. Thanks again for all you info, I will let you know what the verdict is.
The culprit was the bulbs, I guess when I investigated it I didn't do a good enough job. Oh well $40 bucks later the problem is fixed. Thanks again and if I have any questions I will be sure to give you a ring!
I have a 98 venture that I cannot read the ECU codes. I have taken the van to 4 different autoparts stores and each handheld machine will not recognize a connection to the ECU plug.
I checked fuses. Any ideas? Am I missing something?
Mine did this too. Check the aux power fuse and the cig lighter fuse. The computer portion of the ECU is powered through one of these. I found part of a staple in mine that was blowing the fuse.
I see many posts on this topic and many guesses. Does anyone know exactly what the problem is that creates this whistling noise and exactly what the solution is. Cross wind is an issue.
Can I get some real-world gas mileage you all are getting while towing 3000-3500 pounds with the Montana/Venture/Silhouette (with the towing package) please?
I just got a Honda Odyssey and hooked up my 3500 pound travel trailer to it and got a SHOCKING 9 miles per gallon! I really thought I'd get 14-15.
I welcome any information; I am really needing this info because I don't want to change vehicles AGAIN if the mileage is the same as the Odessey.
We are on the road right now! We started out in PA and started our trek to the Pacific coast. The mileage was so bad with the trailer, we dropped off the 3300 pound trailer in Ohio at a storage facility because our trip was going to cost $2400 in gas alone because of the 9 mpg.
I've pulled an older pop-up camper a few times with my 98 venture (I had a tranny cooler installed also). The camper is around 2500 to 3000. Normally I get 28mpg on the highway but with the camper it drops down to the upper teens or lower 20's. When I pull the camper I use a higher octane gas such as 91 or 93. I think the octane difference helps with hills, takeoff and such.
My ABS light came on when I was having problems starting the van ('98 venture). Long story short...I took the cables off the battery and cleaned them very well with baking soda and reconnected them. Believe it or not, the ABS light went off and has stayed off. Now if I can only get that damn "check engine light" to go off...
My wife has an extended '98 venture and the front suspension has been making some real loud noises lately. I jacked it up and to my surprise, the sway bar was broken in half near the drivers side tire! Broken in half! I called 3 neighbors over to look at it and not one had ever seen a swaybar break like that.
Has anyone out there ever had this happen before? We have 125k on it, and "knock on wood", we haven't really had any other problems with it. I also have to replace the outer tie rod on the passengers side.
Took my wifes '05 in to check what she called 'rattling' coming from the rear of the vehicle. I drove it, and it only happened when the rear wheels were going over bumps. Mechanic says he cleaned out some rocks from off the frame, everything else was stable. Driving it home, heard the same sounds. I got underneath it myself, and the only thing i notice is some kind of tubing with a spring-like thing (sorry for the rookie lingo, not too technical here). It comes off the rear cylinder, connects to the frame by some clips. Moving this or slightly tapping it almost recreates the sound I heard while driving. What exactly is this tubing for and could this be the problem? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
I have no idea what a rear cylinder is...do you mean the rear shocks? Do you mean a rear wheel cylinder? Muffler or resonator? I suppose the fuel tank might be considered a "fuel cylinder" although I don't think I'd describe it as cylindrical in shape?
If you can point us in the right direction, I'm sure we can figure out what's rattling...where is it located? Near a wheel? Near the muffler or tailpipe? Side? Center? Low/high? If you think the loose tubing (whatever it might be) is making the rattling, temporarily secure it to something with duct tape and drive it around. If the rattle is gone, you found the culprit...otherwise, hopefully with a better description of what's rattling, we'll figure out how to make it stop...nothing more annoying than a rattle in a car....
Hey dude, thanks, and sorry at the same time... the cylinder I am talking about is right behind (or connected to) the rear wheel - a brake drum possibly? The tubing connects right to that, so maybe its some kind of break line, but I'm not sure, since I've never dealt with them before. The rattling noise is definitely coming from the rear of the vehicleAnyway, the duct tape idea will work to check it out. Once again, apologies for being unclear, and many thanks for any and all info. -jp
Sounds like you're talking about a brake line...you might want to follow it a little bit and see where it leads you. You might find a broken clip..
Also, don't forget to check on the other side as well. There is a line that goes to each wheel and I bet that if the other side had a broken clip it would make the very same noise. Once again, follow it and see where it leads you, you might find the problem.
Let me know how you make out with the duct tape test. If need be, I'll lay under our Venture and look for stuff that could be causing the noise...anything metal bouncing off of anything else metal could be causing it as well.
I just had the same thing happen to my 99 Venture. It was making a clunking noise and I had a mechanic friend look at it and he said the sway bar was busted in half. He said the same thing, he had never seen anything like it before. I was wondering how much the part was to replace it. I have to start calling tomorrow for prices. Thanks DJ
I'm having some problems with my 2003 Venture. I jump started someone a few nights ago, and ever since, when attempting to start the engine, it's acted like it's had a problem getting enough power from the battery to turn over. This continued getting worse (having a harder time starting) for the next few days, until yesterday it just stopped starting altogether.
Now, the lights will come on inside; the dash will light up, headlights work, etc. But when I attempt to start the engine all this dies / drains, and instead of starting there is a clicking sound followed by a faint "churning" or whizzing sound.
I've cleaned the battery contacts, made sure the battery is charged to full, tried jump starting it, etc. and nothing has been successful so far. I *think* I located the starter behind the radiator and near the bottom, and jiggled the apparent contacts there to make sure they weren't loose - nothing there, either.
I do not know how to proceed from here, so anyone with an idea / experience would be appreciated. Thanks.
Update: I tried pulling all of the fuses that had to do with Ign or Battery, then waiting about 30 seconds and re-inserting them. When I tried to start the engine, the same thing as before happened, except I noticed that when I turned the key to the "on" position, there was the churning sound I mentioned earlier. I did this a few times to test it - now the van acts as if the battery is completely dead; no lights, dash, anything of the sort.
Also, now, when I turned the key to "off" it makes the churning sound for a few seconds awhile the speedometer and other gauges twitch around slightly, before falling limp as the churning sound ends.
Sounds like the starter is going out. It may have had nothing to do with the jumpstart you did. That whirring and churning noise is a classic symptom of a bad starter. When you turn the key, finger like items engage forward within the starter to grab hold of another piece which in turn cranks the engine. If those fingers do not move or only move enough to touch the other piece, then you get either a whirring or churning noise.
It shouldn't be too hard to replace yourself. Check around and see if it is more cost effective to have it rebuilt or to buy another one.
You can also remove it and take to an Autozone or some other parts store. Most will check it for free.
Have the selenoid on the starter checked. It is what actually pushes the "fingers' to engage. sometimes you can tap on it with a hammer and the car will start.
Just returned from the car repair shop, and was told that our 2001 Venture has a broken front sway bar. The owner of the shop explained he's seen this before, and that he found out that GM bought some suspension parts from China, and those parts are prone to rusting through, which is what happened in this case. Our Venture has 68,000 miles on it and I drive it like an older person because I am an older person, so there was no abuse. Back in the 50's, my dad's 1950 Buick broke a rear sway bar, and I can't help but think that they haven't learned how to make one that doesn't break over the past 58 years.
I have the exact same complaint on my 1999 Venture. Was anything ever found why it was doing this or where the water was coming from . I hear the same rush of water and then my door locks go crazy . Locking and unlocking the door locks all by their self. Then I start loosing my dash lights until I dry the wiring out. I have installed a couple of towels under the dash to cover the fuse block which helps, but is by no means a fix. Can't find where the water is coming from .
I have a 1999 Venture that has exactly the same problem except I would hear a rush of water under the dash after I would back out of my driveway and go into drive. As soon as I drove forward I would hear the rush of water and it would pour out from under the dash onto the passengers feet and the fuse block and wiring . This would cause the power locks to go crazy until i could dry pout the fuse block and wiring . Did you ever find out what the problem was
I have a 2001 Venture and my ABS and Traction control lights are on. Any suggestions before I spend a bunch at a garage for a diagnosis? Any way to temporarily shut them off for a day?
Probably a bad wheel speed sensor - they're part of the bearings so they have to replace a bearing to repair it...Only thing you can check is the connectors at each wheel to make sure that they're tight and in good condition. If they're all on OK, you have to let them hook it up for a diagnostic check so they can figure out which one it is.
No, If you get an OBDII controller and turn off the light, the garage will know. They will know because your van's computer will tell them that not enough time has passed for the light to be on or off (since you reset the light); diagnostics in the computer need a certain amount of driving time to put the light on or not. They'll give you your van back and say bring it back in after a 100 miles or so. Then your light will be back on.
Another way to put it is that there are three results when you hook you computer up to a computer: Pass (light is off); Fail (light is on); Not Enough Info (light is off).
If you "turn it off," you'll just put it in "Not Enough Info" mode and they'll tell you to come back.
Ever since I bought the starter it grinds when I start the van. Now it ticks and eventually it starts, Does this sound like the starter is going? If so is this difficult to change and can it be rebuilt or should I just replace it?
I've never done a starter on a Venture but I remember on my Celebrity, you had to check the backlash of the starter gear to flywheel (3.1 V6)...if the shims weren't right, it would grind. The starter came with a tool to measure the backlash and shims to correct it of needed.
If you determine that the starter needs to be replaced, don't bother trying to rebuild it, just replace it.
I just found out that my left rear hub assembly needs to be replaced. I have changed my front ones, is the rear ones harder? Any information or advise would be great.
So you are comfortable in saying that he rear is much easier to change? i think I am going to give it a try. If I wanted to change my brakes at the same time would it be easier or is this something totally different?
While you've got it apart you might as well replace the brake shoes. You don't have to remove them (assuming you don't have disc brakes here) but its as good a time as any to do them. It really is easier than doing the fronts. Go for it. I'll keep my eyes here, if you run into a problem, give a yell.
I changed the hub, but I had to remove the drum brakes I can't seem to figure out exactly how to put them back. Any one have a diagram for a 2001 venture rear drum brakes???? ASAP
I did get it back together after referencing the other side. Just one other question, I also replaced the cylinder and a section of brake line. One finished I bled the one side only and when finished I still don't have any brake pedal, do I have to bleed all four tires or just the back two?
Working on my bushing today and I can only get the Horizontal bushing in 3/4 of the way. Any advise or suggestions on how to get it in the rest of the way?????
You probalby have to bleed all 4 brakes if any air has gotten into the system. I am not a mechanic but I do have the shop manual and it says in there that you DO need to bleed all four if any air got into the system. BUT it also says that "if a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylindar must be bled," ...so maybe you're OK there.
I can't help with the bushings but here's the section in the manual on INSTALLING the control arm I scanned in.
Installation 8. Position the control arm in the subframe and install the pivot bolt and the vertical bushing bolt. Do not tighten them completely at this time. 9. Insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle boss, install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If necessary, tighten the nut a little more if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up with an openirrg on the nut. Install a new cotter pin. 10. Install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm link bolt, bushings, spacers and washers (see Section 6) and tighten the link nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 11. Place a floor jack under the outer end of the control arm and raise it to simulate normal ride height. Now tighten the control arm pivot bolt and the vertical bushing bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Caution: If the bolts aren't tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension (or the control arm raised to simulate normal ride height), control arm bushing damage may occur. 12. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
Yes, the shop manual says the order should be: right rear, left front, left rear, then right front.
Be sure you run the engine for at least 10 seconds after you bleed the brakes (which you may already know) and be sure the fluid level is good.
Also, the manual says if you still have a lot of play after bleeding the lines, start the engine for 10 seconds and then turn off WITHOUT depressing the brake pedal and do this 5 consecutive times. This should dislodge any air trapped in the ABS modulator. Then repeat the bleeding proceedure.
The manual also says NEVER use old fluid because it contains some moisture (which can be compressed and boils).
Sorry I missed you, didn't mean to leave you hanging - been working crazy overtime the last few days. Looks like tony 17112 took good care of you. I'll keep watching when I can if you need more info
Comments
To fix a broken wire: splice & tape is minimal repair, you could also solder or use crimp style connectors.
If your high mounted LED light works, it means that the brake switch and the wire all the way from the front to the back are good. This is good...
According to the wiring diagram there is a white wire that feeds all 3 - you need to find where the white wire that feeds the top LED connects to the other 2 white wires that go to the lower stop lamps. It may take a little detective work but I think you;ll find your problem there...the spot is very likely up high where the LED is...take the LED off and look behind it, it might be right there...Once you find it, repair it and you should be good to go...good luck, post back, I'll keep an eye out...
John
I will research this tomorrow morning, This was my last effort before taking it in. I enjoy doing things myself until they reach the point that I don't know enough. It really sounds like you know you stuff inside and out, thanks again! I will let you know how things go.
Let me know how you do....
TSB #03-08-42-007A - (Jan 9, 2004)
Tail Lamp/Brake Lamp Bulb Inoperative (Replace Bulb and/or Circuit Board)
2000-2004 Chevrolet Venture
2000-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette
2000-2004 Pontiac Montana
Revised to add model years (from 03-08-42-007).
Condition
Some customers may comment that the upper left hand or right hand tail lamp/brake lamp bulb is inoperative.
Cause
This condition may be the result of moisture entering the lamp housing and changing the bulbs resistance, causing the bulb to burn out and or melting the circuit board.
Correction
Replace the burned out bulb and the circuit board if needed. Apply dielectric lubricant or dielectric grease to the left hand and right hand tail lamp bulb terminals.
Parts Info
Part # Description
12377900 (10953529 in Canada) Dielectric Lubricant
12345579 Dielectric Silicone Grease
12533713 Circuit Board-Left
12533714 Circuit Board-Right
9441839 Bulb
Thanks again for all you info, I will let you know what the verdict is.
John
I checked fuses. Any ideas? Am I missing something?
Mine did this too. Check the aux power fuse and the cig lighter fuse. The computer portion of the ECU is powered through one of these. I found part of a staple in mine that was blowing the fuse.
thanks!
I just got a Honda Odyssey and hooked up my 3500 pound travel trailer to it and got a SHOCKING 9 miles per gallon! I really thought I'd get 14-15.
I welcome any information; I am really needing this info because I don't want to change vehicles AGAIN if the mileage is the same as the Odessey.
We are on the road right now! We started out in PA and started our trek to the Pacific coast. The mileage was so bad with the trailer, we dropped off the 3300 pound trailer in Ohio at a storage facility because our trip was going to cost $2400 in gas alone because of the 9 mpg.
Thanks everyone! -Tony
Has anyone out there ever had this happen before? We have 125k on it, and "knock on wood", we haven't really had any other problems with it. I also have to replace the outer tie rod on the passengers side.
I have no idea what a rear cylinder is...do you mean the rear shocks? Do you mean a rear wheel cylinder? Muffler or resonator? I suppose the fuel tank might be considered a "fuel cylinder" although I don't think I'd describe it as cylindrical in shape?
If you can point us in the right direction, I'm sure we can figure out what's rattling...where is it located? Near a wheel? Near the muffler or tailpipe? Side? Center? Low/high? If you think the loose tubing (whatever it might be) is making the rattling, temporarily secure it to something with duct tape and drive it around. If the rattle is gone, you found the culprit...otherwise, hopefully with a better description of what's rattling, we'll figure out how to make it stop...nothing more annoying than a rattle in a car....
the cylinder I am talking about is right behind (or connected to) the rear wheel - a brake drum possibly? The tubing connects right to that, so maybe its some kind of break line, but I'm not sure, since I've never dealt with them before. The rattling noise is definitely coming from the rear of the vehicleAnyway, the duct tape idea will work to check it out. Once again, apologies for being unclear, and many thanks for any and all info. -jp
Sounds like you're talking about a brake line...you might want to follow it a little bit and see where it leads you. You might find a broken clip..
Also, don't forget to check on the other side as well. There is a line that goes to each wheel and I bet that if the other side had a broken clip it would make the very same noise. Once again, follow it and see where it leads you, you might find the problem.
Let me know how you make out with the duct tape test. If need be, I'll lay under our Venture and look for stuff that could be causing the noise...anything metal bouncing off of anything else metal could be causing it as well.
I'm having some problems with my 2003 Venture. I jump started someone a few nights ago, and ever since, when attempting to start the engine, it's acted like it's had a problem getting enough power from the battery to turn over. This continued getting worse (having a harder time starting) for the next few days, until yesterday it just stopped starting altogether.
Now, the lights will come on inside; the dash will light up, headlights work, etc. But when I attempt to start the engine all this dies / drains, and instead of starting there is a clicking sound followed by a faint "churning" or whizzing sound.
I've cleaned the battery contacts, made sure the battery is charged to full, tried jump starting it, etc. and nothing has been successful so far. I *think* I located the starter behind the radiator and near the bottom, and jiggled the apparent contacts there to make sure they weren't loose - nothing there, either.
I do not know how to proceed from here, so anyone with an idea / experience would be appreciated. Thanks.
Update: I tried pulling all of the fuses that had to do with Ign or Battery, then waiting about 30 seconds and re-inserting them. When I tried to start the engine, the same thing as before happened, except I noticed that when I turned the key to the "on" position, there was the churning sound I mentioned earlier. I did this a few times to test it - now the van acts as if the battery is completely dead; no lights, dash, anything of the sort.
Also, now, when I turned the key to "off" it makes the churning sound for a few seconds awhile the speedometer and other gauges twitch around slightly, before falling limp as the churning sound ends.
It shouldn't be too hard to replace yourself. Check around and see if it is more cost effective to have it rebuilt or to buy another one.
You can also remove it and take to an Autozone or some other parts store. Most will check it for free.
Let me know what you find out.
I have a 2001 Venture and my ABS and Traction control lights are on. Any suggestions before I spend a bunch at a garage for a diagnosis? Any way to temporarily shut them off for a day?
Another way to put it is that there are three results when you hook you computer up to a computer:
Pass (light is off);
Fail (light is on);
Not Enough Info (light is off).
If you "turn it off," you'll just put it in "Not Enough Info" mode and they'll tell you to come back.
-Tony
If you determine that the starter needs to be replaced, don't bother trying to rebuild it, just replace it.
I just found out that my left rear hub assembly needs to be replaced. I have changed my front ones, is the rear ones harder? Any information or advise would be great.
Thanks again!!
:shades:
Thanks again.
FYI, I only take one side apart at a time so I can reference the one that's still together. Check your other side if you haven't taken it apart.
-Tony
I did get it back together after referencing the other side. Just one other question, I also replaced the cylinder and a section of brake line. One finished I bled the one side only and when finished I still don't have any brake pedal, do I have to bleed all four tires or just the back two?
Working on my control arm bushings today, I can only get the horizontal bushing 3/4 of the way in, any suggestions???
Installation
8. Position the control arm in the subframe and install the pivot bolt and the vertical
bushing bolt. Do not tighten them completely at this time.
9. Insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle boss, install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If necessary, tighten the nut a little more if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up with an openirrg on the nut. Install a new cotter pin.
10. Install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm link bolt, bushings, spacers and washers (see Section 6) and tighten the link nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
11. Place a floor jack under the outer end of the control arm and raise it to simulate normal ride height. Now tighten the control arm pivot bolt and the vertical bushing bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
Caution: If the bolts aren't tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension (or the control arm raised to simulate normal ride
height), control arm bushing damage may occur.
12. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
Be sure you run the engine for at least 10 seconds after you bleed the brakes (which you may already know) and be sure the fluid level is good.
Also, the manual says if you still have a lot of play after bleeding the lines, start the engine for 10 seconds and then turn off WITHOUT depressing the brake pedal and do this 5 consecutive times. This should dislodge any air trapped in the ABS modulator. Then repeat the bleeding proceedure.
The manual also says NEVER use old fluid because it contains some moisture (which can be compressed and boils).
-Tony
I have bled them several times but this information is very useful.