Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

sensei1 · March 2003

You might try checking Chrysler's website for more info. As far as I can recall, it uses viscous coupling awd. Normally drives like a regular fwd until road conditions change. The big diff. for me was what else came w/ the awd pkg. 3.8L eng. 4whl disc and load leveling. Keeping in mind mine's a '99 LXi AWD. So maybe they're std. now. Running on 45k now and everything's fine.

ed12 · March 2003

larry51k
I have a 2002 T&C with AWD. To my mind, power is not what counts, but the ability to deliver the power to the ground. The AWD provides that traction. WHile my 300M was more powerful, it was meaningless on slippery roads. The AWD works and works well. It is a great feeling to know you can step on the gas and go even if the road surface is slippery.

On the T&C, 90% of the power normally goes to the front wheels, if they slip more power goes to the rear.

As to mpg, this is my first van so I have nothing to compare it to. I am getting in the range of 18.5 mpg in suburban driving.

Also, I love the auto load leveling that comes with the AWD. I had nine people in the van and it road like a dream.

Hope this helps.

Ed

djb63 · March 2003

Larry51K Your questions regarding AWD. I have a 2002 Chrysler T&C LXi AWD. Have 12k miles.I have had no problems. My only visits to the dealer were for oil/filter changes. I live in Vermont and drive lots in the mountains of Vermont/New Hampshire/Maine. I have four Hakkapelitta q's mounted on steel wheels for winter driving. Van handles well in snow. In all driving to date :(Summer/winter)(Summer tires/Winter Tires)(flat land/Mountains)(Snow covered roads/Clear roads)(City/Highway) I have averaged 17MPG. Typically get 15-16 MPG city driving and as much as 20.5 Highway driving. This is not my first AWD and because of where I live and where I go, I personally would not have a vehicle without AWD.
I also have a 1995 Subaru LSi AWD with 90K miles. While not trouble free it has been a good car... Hope this helps..

johnnyc4 · March 2003

I have the '02 T&C Ltd AWD it's amazing in snow/ice. Tractions were good during blizzard, tires gripped on 10 inches of snow. This is my first minivan. I drove a 4X4 before and I notice the big difference. About MPG it averages 16.5 in mixed driving and 19 on highways. I don't mind about MPG I use regular fuel anyway. Happy driving.

jsande · March 2003

I have an opportunity to purchase a new 2003 LXI T&C with leather and the standard features for a total drive-out price of $25,130 (including rebate, but not tax). Does that seem reasonable? Thanks.

scott31 · March 2003

That is about $2k under invoice....

How are you managing that?

palmer · March 2003

Great price. I priced out an LXi just like that, only option is leather. Best price I got was $25,833. Please confirm that price does not factor in a trade. If not, I may try and negotiate more. If you like the van, grab it at that price.

jsande · March 2003

The $25,130 doesn't include a trade. Figure I can easily sell my current van and get more than I was offered as a trade. I live in the Atlanta area and probably benefit from having a local CarMax selling T&C's at reasonable prices.

bscrivener · March 2003

In the Atlanta area, I saw that Hayes Chrysler has significant discounts on their T&C's. The other day, I looked at an LX for $18,990 (~ $500 less than CarMax) so they may have LXi's at a good price too.

Bo

mike_sp1 · March 2003

Am considering the purchase of a T&C and had not looked at them after I had heard that they were going to offer the 300M's engine and was surprised to find that Chrysler had changed their minds. I am concerned about 215 hp (3.8 L engine) being enough for a heavy van since I am used to more hp in my 300M that weighs less. Any acceleration thoughts from owners? Any 0-60 times available?? Mike_Sp1

jsande · March 2003

Picked up the LXi today and I did purchase it from Hayes. Reason I mentioned CarMax is that their presence(and heavy advertising) probably keeps T&C prices very competitive in the Atlanta area. As reported earlier, my total price was $25,130.50 not including tax/tags. Pretty smooth transaction as prices are posted on their web page. Additional charges to the posted price of $24,998 are window etching ($149--which I didn't pay), and dealer service charge ($129.50--which I paid) + $3 MVWR.
Mike--according to Edmund's the 0-60 time for the 215 hp 3.8 is 9.5 sec. While I find the performance perfectly adequate for my needs, the T&C is certainly not a sports car.

feldmanbd · March 2003

Mike_sp1 - I have a '99 T&C LXi with the 3.8L engine and 103K on it. Even though that only has 180 HP and the new ones have 215, the van is certainly no slouch - the power is available at the low end where you really need it. Personally, I'm a leadfoot, so acceleration is a big concern of mine and if it was lacking I'd be the first to let everyone know. I've never timed 0-60, but from everything I've seen it's likely in the range of 9-10 seconds. But it also pulls hard from 55 - 75, which is good for passing on the highway, and it does great on hills. The Odyssey has slightly more power, as does the Sienna (but watch out, the Sienna takes premium fuel while the other ones take regular), but remember published figures are only peak values. The torque/power curves are really what matter, but of course those are much tougher to find. In any case, I don't think you'd be disappointed with the 3.8L T&C. It may not have the power to weight ratio of your 300M, but then again your 300M is a sport sedan and a lot of 3500lb sedans don't have anywhere near 250 HP to begin with. The T&C may not be a sports car, but it comes as close as I think a (stock) van ever will. Good luck with your purchase!

beth33 · March 2003

I have a '96 T&C, 45k. Two weeks ago took a trip thru a relatively high mtn pass, (4200'). Long hill climb or approx 6 miles and 3/4 way up van quickly lost power, to point where it would not climb anymore, (over distance of 300yds), & check engine light came on. Pulled over, put in 'P' and revved engine. Would not rev freely in park. Shut off and let it sit for 10 mins, then limped to rest area at summit. The check engine light now flashing. Turned off and let sit for 30 mins. Fluid levels normal, engine not overheated, no unusual sounds, (except for faltering engine). Turned back on and drove home with check engine light on. Was still running poorly, (stuttering, faltering, missing at idle).
Took to shop, replaced plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, PCV valve, air filter. OBD said "trouble code 300-multiple mis-fires".
$300.00 paid and van ran fine, until I went back to get my kids...Exact same problem on different hill in same high elevation area...
Please help, I'm about to get fleeced but I gotta do the drive once a month due to child visitation reasons...

tomtomtom · March 2003

Update on my Pioneer DVD/ Navigation system.

I have tried to do it myself and actually located the "speed pulse" wire for the Navigation system but I got a major problem with the factory Infinity system. I got everything hooked up and the video looked great but no audio. Talked to the pro and they told me the only way to get the sound out of the original speakers is to go around the build-in amp of each speakers. That involved taking out all panels and reroute all wires. That just too much work for me and decided to let them do it for $500. It took them two days to finish the job so $500 wasn't that bad afterall. I think the cost of the whole system with labor would still be cheaper than the system from Chrysler. Last time I check the roof mounted DVD from Chrysler cost $2000 with labor and I've never checked the price for the new in-dash Navigation system they have (small screen). Now I (the driver) get to watch DVD on a 7 inch screen while driving (no, I don't do that ;-))

keygo · March 2003

This week, I suddenly lost all control of my heater and AC. The temperate still regulates. The problem is the blower is wide open. Moreover, I even turn the power off and the blower goes even harder. It is a 2002 LXi. Did a chip go bad? Is this a fluke?

I drive lots of miles (45,000) so I am not under warranty. Hate problems with new cars.

njerald · March 2003

With the Auto Temp. Control (ATC), the blower uses a blower power module to control the speed of the blower. It is located behind the glove box and is installed in a mounting hole in the evaporator housing. It could be bad.
The voltage output from the power module is compared to the blower motor feedback voltage in a comparaotr circuit.
The Microprocessor-based ATC calculates the speed that the Power Module applies. It could be bad.
You will need to have the system scanned with a DRBIII scan tool, there should be stored and active codes for diagnosis.

keygo · March 2003

Thanks for the information. Sound expensive.
Oh well.

bobrobin · April 2003

Hello, I have a new 2003 Chrysler Town & Country Limited with adjustable pedals. Have had it for about a month now. The manual states that the adjustable pedals can be set to adjust automatically with the memory seat positions and both my wife and I think that this function did work. However, after having it to the dealer this past week because of a problem with the Keyless remote and memory seats, the adjustable pedals will not set to the memory seats. Now both the dealer and Chrysler tell me that "the pedals are not programmable to memory at this time". My question? Does anyone out there have the 2003 Limited with adjustable pedals that can confirm for me whether or not their's actually adjust with the memory seat positions. As I stated earlier the owner's manual states that it will but Chrysler says "not at this time". Thanks in advance.

desertkev · April 2003

I bought a '00 LImited, and this thing was in the shop all the time...I got a warranty act violation and got $1000 award, but I finally traded the piece of crap and ended up with $16000 less than I paid. The straw that broke the camels back was it started burning 1-2 quarts of oil b/w oil changes (Mobil 1 at that)...and service told me this was normal...I told them that it is not normal (maybe for a winston-cup stock car) and their regional service rep said it was...so I will never own another Chrysler...and I really liked the handling, ride, seat comfort, amenities....but I couldn't see holding on to it. So I traded it for an Acura...I always owned American cars, but Chrysler can stick it someplace. Best of luck to everyone who owns one.

dave210 · April 2003

Did you happen to trade it in on a MDX? While I didn't have any awful problems with my two most recent Chrysler vans, I decided it was time for a change and now have a 2003 Acura MDX Touring/Navigation.

It's so nice having a car that doesn't have any rattles that have to be fixed at the dealer after owning it for three months. Did my Chrysler's have any mechanical problems? Not really, but the rattles were always there.

desertkev · April 2003

I did trade it in for the MDX. The T&C had just about every option and was a nice ride, but the rattles, burning oil, and other minor continuing problems made me want to get rid of it. I paid 32k for the T&C when new, traded it 2 years later and got 16k....easy come easy go.

nfl2 · April 2003

I have a 02 T&C Limited(with towing package and transmission cooler), has 13,000 miles. At idle in traffic, the temp. starts to rise. My 96 T&C with with the same package never budge off of just below halfway, no matter what, even under heavy loads with one hundred degree weather. Could there be a problem with the radiator fans not coming on when they should? The engine heats up while at a stop with only a temp. of 80 degrees outside. I haven't discussed with dealer yet, just thought I would get a heads up on the problem.

stever · April 2003

Thermostat maybe?

Try nosing around the Maintenance and Repair Board. There are some discussions about overheating in there that may shed some light.

Steve, Host

feldmanbd · April 2003

Just another dumb little thing you can check, perhaps the radiator fan relay isn't functioning correctly. Perhaps you can recommend the dealer replace that when you take it in. Hope this helps.

tcgal2 · April 2003

I just purchased a 2002 Town & Country LX and I love the car. Through inside information I discovered that the dealership sold me the car knowing that I had a pan gasket leakage. Is this an expensive problem? I still am under the 36k mile warranty and I purchased an additional extended warranty of 60k. Should I be alarmed? Is this covered under my warranty? I currently have 28300k miles. Thanks.

jtsande · April 2003

tcgal2---assume you're referring to the oil pan gasket? If so, it's covered under your warranty. In any case, it's not a big deal. probably $25 for the gasket plus a half hour (hour) of labor.

anrold · April 2003

I purchased a new 2002 Town and Country Limited with all the extras last July. I have 17,000 miles on it. When I take it to the car wash I see stains that look like carbon on the front wheels and cannot be removed completely. I also noticed some slight paint chipping on the front bumper in an area where it could not have been hit. it seems to be peeling from the plastic
front bumper passenger side. anyone else?

biyonic2 · April 2003

Not to create a panic or anything but after a very snowy and salty winter I noticed very tiny pinhead rust colored spots on the rear hatch here and there. This is a brand new 2003 TC EX in silver so you can understand my alarm. If I rubbed hard with my finger I could get the spot to come off - kinda. Now here's a clue - I found a couple of spots also on the non-metallic trim as well. So I am wondering...are these spots coming from metallic particles in the paint itself? Is there reason to be concerned?

biyonic2 · April 2003

The reddish brown carbon-looking stains are from brake dust coming off of the brake pads. This is normal if not somewhat excessive from our vans. The best way to clean this is to get some wheel washing spray from Autozone. I did this yesterday and the dust came right off with some light brushing and the spray. The dust did not come off on some spots (pits) and that makes me question the quality of the company that does the casting for DCX.

stever · April 2003

For the dust and rust that doesn't come off, try a "clay bar." Available in the wax section.

Steve, Host

stever · May 2003

No one knows about the memory adjustable pedals in message #1403 above? Is the manual wrong?

Steve, Host

desertkev · May 2003

I don't have the T&C anymore, but the wheels should definitely be cleaned with soap and water, then use a chrome polish on them. I use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish on that car and I use it on my 72 skylark (lots of chrome pieces). I had 36000miles when I traded the T&C, but the wheels looked brand new.

tgrayson · May 2003

I recently decided to trade in my wife's 2002 Envoy for a minivan. We realized during our last trip that the Envoy has no room. The thing is that I am doing it as a surprise for mothers day. I am going for a Limited but the dealer keeps quoting $1200 above invoice. How far do you think I can maneuver and is it worth it to get the AWD?

cesarp · May 2003

I think you can do better than what they are quoting you. I purchased a 2000 T&C Limit AWD for my wife 3 years ago and we have not been disappointed. The AWD is nice option to have, the stability in slippery surfaces is incredible. I got this van for $4500 below MRSP with the .9% financing.

dave210 · May 2003

In our area (Chicago), the local newspaper keeps on quoting "$10,100 off every 2003 Limited" Although that includes the $750 match downpayment.

But still, we're talking $37,000 vans with sun roof etc. etc. for $27,000.

I bet you could do better.

tgrayson · May 2003

What have people been buying them for recently, TMV has about $300 over invoice.

bobrobin · May 2003

Ref #1403. After visiting my dealer for service yesterday, I have an update on my adjustable pedal/memory seat issues on my 2003 T&C Limited. The salesman and I checked out the issues on a new 2003 Limited on the lot with the following results. The pedals DO NOT set or adjust with the memory seat positions. The manual states they will even though Chrysler says "not at this time" Also, the manual states that if you try to adjust the pedals with the transmission in reverse or with the cruise control engaged the pedals will not adjust and you will get a message in the message console stating that the pedals cannot be adjusted at this time and why. True the pedals do not adjust under these conditions, but neither my T&C or the one on the lot show the messages. One more thing, the manual is also wrong in the procedure for linking the remotes to the memory seat positions. The manual says to turn the ignition on to link the remotes when in fact the ignition needs to be off. I love the car, but have been very disappointed with these particular issues and with Chrysler's lack of response on same. I have sent 3 emails to Customer Assistance with no response and made phone calls with no real help. It is almost as if they don't really care. Sorry for the long message, but maybe this info will help someone.

tgrayson · May 2003

Well, they have to truck the car into me.

Thats what I get for going with the limited. The bad news is I got to pay invoice plus $1200. The good news is I got a $1700 package discount and a $3500 rebate with 4.59% financing for 60 months.

enviroman · May 2003

Change the oil myself and would like to know how to reset the perform service indicator on the overhead display. Thanks

Kirstie_H · May 2003

I recently bought a 2003 as well, and the $3500 rebate was nice, plus I took the $750 down match, and the leather seat credit. Also, just in case you didn't know, the Chrysler website often has additional $500 off coupons.

Go to Build a Chrysler, then under the Make it Your Own menu, choose Build Your Chrysler. After you finish the build procedure, I think you select Get a Quote or Search Dealer Inventory, and occasionally a coupon will pop up. They're kind of sporadic, usually offered on various vehicles for 3 days at a time, but it's worth checking before you shop anyway.

kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

rbell2 · May 2003

If you are buying a T&C, the dealers in Memphis, TN routinely advertise $8,000 off the sticker for any T&C on the lot. The discounts are bigger as you go up in price. The Edmunds TMV is usually way-off for the most part - at least in this region.

I am about to let our '96 DGC go and we are trying to decide between a new T&C or a Ody or Sienna. The worst thing about the T&C is the split rear seat design - the have all but eliminated the large available cargo room unless you give up seats. I wonder what engineering phenom came up with that design??

tomtomtom · May 2003

Don't understand your comment on the rear seat, you could still seat 5 people and have the cargo space with that split seat design. Try to do that with the "magic seat"

rbell2 · May 2003

What I mean is with no seats tumbled or "magically hidden," the available space in the rear of the Ody is about 2 to 3 times the available volume in the T&C. A T&C can't approach the standard cargo volume available in the Ody w/o losing the rear seating. They should have at least made those split seats able to slide forward (while still in the seating position) to give some more room w/o losing a 1/2 or whole bench worth of seating.

tomtomtom · May 2003

Oh, I guess you never need to carry 5 people then.

hayneldan · May 2003

According to both manufacturers, space behind rear seat. Honda (including folding seat storage area) 38.1 cu ft. DC 20.0 cu ft. Not quite 2 times the space.

bobrobin · May 2003

I have found more "features" on my 2003 T&C Limited that do not work, or at least I can not get them to work. I have talked with Chrysler Customer Assistance(not much help) and with my dealer (wants me to bring it in again). I was wondering if someone out there with a 2003 Limited could verify whether or not these "features" work on theirs.
1. Headlights on with wipers - page 125 of manual - When programmed "y" in EVIC with headlights on Auto and wipers on for 10 seconds, the healights should automatically come on. Mine does not.
2. If you try to adjust the adjustable pedals with cruise control engaged or with the transmission in reverse, you shold get a beep and messages in the EVIC stating that this will not work. Under these conditions, the pedals do not adjust, but I do not get the messages.
3. If you leave the turn signals on too long driving down the highway, you should get a beep and a warning message in the EVIC that the turn signal is on, I do not get this message either.
I know that none of the above are major issues, but on a car of this price, I expect everything to work as described in the manual.
Just one more question about the Load Leveling/Height Control suspension. My T&C has this option as part of the trailer towing package. I recently went on a road trip on I-10 and was surprised and how stiff this suspension was and how hard it took some of the I-10 bumps. Can anyone offer input as to how the ride with this suspension system compares to the regular T&C suspension? Can this suspension be adjusted "softer"? Thanks in advance.

bill1000 · May 2003

As for the headlights on with wiper issue(#1), I had the same problem. Took it to the dealer and they reprogrammed it and now it works fine (nice feature by the way). Not sure why it wasn't programmed right in the first place, but it looks like I'm not the only one.

tsu670 · June 2003

Just curious if anyone has changed out the spark plugs and wires on their '96 thru '98 T&C. Sounds like one needs to remove the windshield wipers and cowling to get to the rear plugs. Ever try it? Any advice and worthwhile extra tools you'd recommend?

vcheng · June 2003

tsu670: I have the same 3.8 liter motor as your T&C. The plugs are numbered 1 through 6, with the front bank being #2,#4 and #6, which are straightforward.

I used the following procedure for the rest, which you may or may not use at your own risk. The only tools I used were a 3/8 ratchet drive, plug socket, a universal joint and two extensions, 3" and 6", for the plugs, and 12, 14 and 15 mm box end spanners for the belt and brackets as you will see.

For #3 and #5, I raised the vehicle on drive-up ramps, and approached from underneath. If you follow the exhaust up to the rear bank, you can see the plugs after the wires have been removed. Believe it or not, there is indeed enough space to put the socket on, attach the universal joint and use the ratchet head with the appropriate extension to remove these two plugs.

#1 is the worst. I removed the serpentine belt, then loosening the alternator and moved to as far back towards the firewall. Then I removed the triangular bracket attaching the alternator braket to the intake plenum. Then there was just enough space to remove the plug.

I used antiseize on all the new plugs, and did not change the wires.

Hints:

Do this with the engine cold. I would suggest parking it on the ramps overnight and work the next morning. Wear good work gloves, and long sleeves since it will be awkward getting your arms into position, and there are a lot of unfinished edges to scratch your knuckles and forearms.

The usual disclaimers apply. You must consider all the above as the ravings of a lunatic not to be followed except at your own risk.

Having said that, if there is anything else I can describe, please let me know.

feldmanbd · June 2003

I've changed my plugs on a 99 T&C almost the same way as vcheng - but I was able to reach all 3 of the rear plugs (not easily!) from underneath. My guess is the first time through it'll take you about 3 hours to do the job that way, which is about what it took me. Depends on how tall/slender you are and the number of extensions you have for your wrench. But you'll definitely want at least one universal joint and a variety of extensions, especially to reach that plug near the alternator. It'll take about 15 minutes to change the front 3 plugs, then 2 hours and 45 minutes to change the back 3 :-) have fun!

Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

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