I bought a new Toyota Highlander and within a week got a chip on the driver door on the highway (small stone due to a car in the lane next to me). I took it to the dealer who wanted to paint the complete door panel for about $350, so I decided to fix the chip myself.
I got touch up paint/clearcoat from paintscratch.com which was an exact match to the color of my car(Bluestone metallic). I also bought a compound (from langka.com) that eliminates the paint blob from the chip area. I am really satisfied with the results, my friends were not able to identify the paint chip unless I pointed it out to them.
If you are not satisfied with the job done by the dealer and do not want to get the hood painted you can fix the chip yourself. You can get the touch up paint/clearcoat from the dealer but the compound to eliminate paint blob from the chip area is essential in getting a smooth finish of the paint/clearcoat.
Washed my week-old car for the first time on Friday and what did I find? A couple of paint chips on the front and a small scratch on a plastic side sill.
This conceivably might have happened at the dealer's before I bought it; more likely, the marks happened on the road.
I washed over them and moved on. There simply is no winning the "keep your car like new" game in the real world. The interior space you have some control over; the exterior is the wild kingdom.
Like Isell said, there are a lot bigger things in life to worry about.
And it has a paint chip, big deal. My Titan had a busted overhead console, broken utility door latch, and a major scratch on the brush guard that was spray painted over (badly). The broken stuff was fixed and I ignore the other. As of right now the truck has a couple rock chips I'm sure and a dent in the hood (don't know where that came from). Do I care? Nope, its a truck.
My Focus I'm sure wasn't flawless when I bought it either, I didn't bother to check and have since kicked a dent in the door anyway so I don't personally care.
Oh and no, I don't trash my vehicles, I've just learned there are far more important things to worry about than a little paint chip.
By the time a vehicle is a month or two old its got flaws, nothing you can do about it unless you park it in the house and keep it covered, but then what's the point of buying it?
LOL, I was mad and it was right there, wasn't the car's fault, just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Usually I kick a rock or something, but this time it was the car, lol. Thankfully it doesn't show and I can't even find it anymore.
All 3 of our vehicles have some form of damage these days. I backed the Titan into the parking garage wall and bent the bumper (not too bad), hubby dented the top of the tailgate on his Dodge while backing our trailer up with the tailgate down, and then the Focus has the little owie from my tizzy fit. Guess these 3 are keepers, lol.
and 96 month month contracts, and a few 120 month contracts on conversion vans...it's all just plain ugly, but you can't argue with a customer who wants to take that route. I guess you could, but what's the point?
If you have to finance for that long, you can't afford it. It'll bite you in the long run, in one way or another...
Is a 96-month car loan any worse than leasing? At least with the loan you have ownership and you can decide to keep the car after three years without making any special kinds of deals.
Heck, we have had our 1997 Accord for 89 months and I think it still a wonderful car.
What's the problem? It's the interest. Interest rates go higher the longer the term is plus you are paying interest for a longer period of time. Isn't that just common sense?
Anyone who gets, even a 60 month loan, is paying so much interest those first 2 years they are probably always upside down for the first 1/2. With a 96 month loan you're probably looking at 4-5 years before you see any appreciable principal reduction.
Why would you compare a 96 month loan to a lease, which averages 36 months? At least with a lease after those 36 months you are not still owing more than the car is worth.
For the same monthly outlay, on a 36 month lease, you would be 2/3 of the way through your third new car. On the purchase, you have an 8 year old car, and probably paid more in maintencance/repairs (but less in insurance). So, at the end of 8 years, how much will the car be worth? Because that's when you will finally see a financial difference.
My bet? Most people who would take out a 96 onth loan will A) try to trade it in in 2-3 years for something new that they just gotta have, or B)trade it in as soon as the loan is over, assuming the didn't do A.
In any case, these people will probably never be out from under a payment, so a lease might actually make some sense. Not as much as a financial management class and a cheaper car though.
Hello, I hope someone can help me. I just bought a 2004 Intrepid and I gave a $1000 down payment. Now, the sales person calls me the next day and informs that he just found out there was rebate and that he could not change my monthly payment because he had to ajust my sales price (raising it) because he couldn't lose any more money on the car. Now another sales person told me that either he truly didn't know or that he was including the rebate already in the "deal" he was giving me and he later found out he actually had to state it in writing. Either way I believe I was lied to. Furthermore, I was told to come by the dealer because the paper work was "filled out" wrong. What should I do? And, how do rebates really work? I need assistance please.
you don't raise the price on the car to allow for a rebate, and giving you the rebate that you're due has nothing to do with dealer profit.
Two things you have to establish: (1) what is the exact amount of rebates you're entitled to, and (2) are they in your car deal, and if so, where does it show on your contract..
You need to schedule a meeting with the dealer GM and get this ironed out ASAP - not tomorrow, not next week.
it sounds like option 2, they gave him a price net of the rebate, but forgot to itemize it on the contract. If so, the bottom line will stay the same. Either way, you need to get a clear explanation in writing to make sure you are still comfortable with the deal.
Lying is a strong word, implying deliberate intent. Sometimes people do make mistakes.
Now the second option stated by driftracer and stickguy is probably what happened. But I've looked over the contract worksheet I signed and it is not stated anywhere. Now the dealer is saying that the contract was turned back by the bank because they were filled out wrong and I have to go back to sign another. Since he didn't state nor itemize the rebate during negotiations am I entitled to it now and can I refuse the rebate from him and request it directly from the manufacturer? Thanks by the way for all your help guys.
every car loan I have had has been a simple interest loan, where the same amount of the payment goes toward interest and principle each month. Its not like a home mortgage.
A 60 month loan is fine if you plan to keep the car at least 4 years, As I have found out the hard way a few times. A 96 month loan is nuts though.
A "simple interest" loan does not pay the same amount to interest and principal each month.. A simple interest loan works exactly like a mortgage, though the interest numbers are a much smaller percentage of the payment due to the shorter loan term..
A car lease, however, allocates the same amount to principal and interest each month.
If I lease (or rent) a car from you, then you first have to buy it and pay for it. You have to charge me enough rent to cover your cost of ownership plus a little extra so you can make some money off the deal. Otherwise, why would you do it?
Therefore, what I am paying in rent is more than what you are paying to own the car.
It seems like it would be cheaper for me to just buy the car in the first place.
Of course, since I have never rented a car and I haven't had a car loan since 1978, it just may be possible that I don't know what I am talking about.
The extra is just interest.. If you are financing your car, then there really is no difference.. Leasing is just an alternative method of financing.. but, with some other positives and negatives involved.
It isn't for everyone.. but if you finance, there really isn't a "price difference".
Simple interest loans do NOT pay the same interest month after month. Simple interest loans pay a fixed, 30 day interest that shrinks every month while the principal payment grows.
I have two auto loans now, both are compound interest, meaning they charge interest by the day instead of month. One with Bank of America and one with my credit union. I've never had a car loan that was simple interest.
the missing piece Bobst is the origination fee, usually $500 - $700, that you pay to have the privilege of making lease payments. That covers the costs of the lease company, etc., that are in addition to the normal "profit" included in the interest charged on any finance contract.
You are correct that, all other factors equal, it should be cheaper to buy/finance than lease, due to the orig fee and disposal fee (if any).
You're ignoring the fact that a lessee only pays for a portion of the sale price of the vehicle, whereas a buyer would be paying for the whole amount of the vehicle. That's why a 36 month lease is cheaper than a 36 month car note.
If you could have gotten my into my Acura TL for $518/mo. on a 42 month note, I would have done it in a heartbeat. Instead, I pay $518/month to use 43% of the car's value over the next 42 months.
The equity that you get by purchasing a car isn't free. You have to pay the principal to the noteholder to get it back when you sell/trade it. Someone my age (26) that knows he would have a car payment over the next 42 months, whether leasing new or buying used, would rather lease new because of warranty issues, reduced R&M, etc. I wouldn't have gotten into leasing if I planned on leasing forever. I plan on paying cash for my next car.
Of course, we have rented cars for a couple weeks on vacation, but I was thinking of a long-term rental, like a multi-year lease.
One more thing, Cole. I guess you never considered using your $518 per month to buy a Civic. After 42 months you could have sold the car and had some cash in hand, which would have made it even easier to pay cash for your next car.
Of course, for all I know you are just finishing up medical school and plan to have enough cash to buy whatever car you want in 42 months, so there is no need to suffer driving a Civic in the meantime. If so, congratulations!
My point was that leasing is just an alternate method of financing. If the price and interest rate is otherwise the same, it will cost you the same amount to lease or finance for the 36 months. Not the same payment, because you are correct that you are also finanicing the equity portion on a loan. You would have to trade in the car at the end of the 3 year note to reat an experience that mirrors the lease.
"...no need to suffer driving a Civic in the meantime. If so, congratulations!"
And just what's wrong with a Civic? Damn things are bulletproof. I drive a '91 Civic and it just won't die. I know cause I keep trying to kill it but my Scottish heritage won't let me buy a new car as long as this one still runs so well. Cursed genetic heritage....
I am new to the list, and tried searching "sticker" for this information, but just couldn't look thru 10 pages of results. So please pardon me if this information was answered already.
I am considering buying a Chevy Impala. There are 3 super-large GM dealers in my area, all under one name. There are no other GM dealerships in the area--covers about 20 miles. Each one has Buicks, Chevys, Pontiacs... One thing I am noticing about them--they don't have the "Monroney" window sticker on the window! That sticker is a Federal law, and it's the only way you know what options are on the car and sticker price. It comes from the factory. Instead, they have a hang tag from the rear view mirror telling the MSRP (the MSRP that they say it is), the discount they will give you (they said $2,000), the rebate available (which they said was $2,000 when I went on Wednesday), and the total, which they call their "best price." I don't feel comfortable buying from these guys, and I hope other Chevy dealers aren't removing the stickers. I did see a sticker that was peeling off the '05 Impala car I was checking it out on Wednesday(it's hot out in this part of the country), but I don't know what to do about their not following Federal Law.
I am guessing they are trying to put together a "no-dicker" type of operation. I could go out of my area and see other dealerships. If they aren't following the sticker law, what else aren't they doing properly???
Without Monroney stickers, my first thought would be demos. Only way to sell a car without a sticker but with factory rebates. I'd say check the odometer on these vehicles without stickers. If the sticker has peeled from heat and is laying on the seat, compare VINs before committing to anything.
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Is a leased vehichle always listed as such on a carfax report? I went to a dealer on Saturday who was trying to sell me an '01 Highlander. He told me that it was a lease return, however, when I looked at the carfax report that he had printed, it showed that it had been registered by a private owner. He tried to convince me that it was a leased vehicle, and pulled out a pink checksheet which he said that they use when a leased vehichle is returned. Strange thing is that he didn't let me look at the sheet, just held it in his hand. To make a long story short, I ended up walking out on the deal because I didn't think that he was telling the full truth.
You did the right thing, though. If you feel in any way uncomfortable with the deal, leaving is your best move. That way, you can think about your options, and what other information you'd like before buying the vehicle. If it's a lease return, wouldn't they at least be able to look up the service records for you?
A 2001 Highlander isn't exactly a rarity, so unless you're in a hurry, shop around!
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Why, then, wouldn't I lease the car for 36 months and invest the payment difference to earn a return on it? You are right, it's an alternate method of financing the car.
Why wouldn't I drive a Civic? Because it doesn't fit my needs, perceived or real.
Well, if you would otherwise keep the car from more than 3 years, at the end of the loan you would own a car and have 0 payments. With a lease, you get a new lease and set of payments.
Really didn't mean to reopen the lease vs. buy debate (is that Bowke I hear at the door??), just pointing out that it is simply an alternate method of financing, and responding to Bobst's question.
Questtion for the dealers: Is this a big ticket mark up item? And, is it easy to remove? I'm asking because my local Honda dealer has it added to every Odyssey on the lot. I suppose it wouldn't matter to me if I had it (out of sight, out of mind), ignoring the big brother implications (not that I'm paranoid or anything), its just not something that I would pay to get.
It's not the fact of whether or not it's a lease return (the salesperson I spoke with told me that it was), but that they were trying to cover up the fact that it wasn't. In addition, I was told that the previous owner didn't smoke, yet as soon as I stepped into the vehicle, it smelled of cigarette smoke, the lighter was well used, and there was a cigaretter burn in the back seat. Overall, this dealership was very deceptive, which is the reason why I would never do business with them.
Do you really want your car back if it is stolen? Who knows what happened in the back seat? Do you think the thieves were as nice to the engine as you are?
Usually the blue book value of a car is greater than the price you would get if you sold the car. I think it is better to take the money and get a new car.
there isn't any damage done by the minium wage stereo shop kid who installed it, or better yet, have them dealer trade for one without aftermarket add-ons.
drift - isn't Lojack installed strictly by Lojack? The dealer may sell the product but I was under the impression that Lojack did the install themselves.
OK - here in Boston, which is where they are based, they do the installs. AFAIK, you can't walk into a stereo shop and buy it - car dealer or LoJack direct only.
but depending on the mood of the service manager, and the depth of any electrical problem that might arise, you can still have your warranty voided.
That's the manufacturer's out, though lame, on many of the lemon law cases I see, because the warranty prescribes (every one I've seen) that there are to be "no modifications to the original vehicle"...
Comments
I got touch up paint/clearcoat from paintscratch.com which was an exact match to the color of my car(Bluestone metallic). I also bought a compound (from langka.com) that eliminates the paint blob from the chip area. I am really satisfied with the results, my friends were not able to identify the paint chip unless I pointed it out to them.
If you are not satisfied with the job done by the dealer and do not want to get the hood painted you can fix the chip yourself. You can get the touch up paint/clearcoat from the dealer but the compound to eliminate paint blob from the chip area is essential in getting a smooth finish of the paint/clearcoat.
Bigger things in life to worry about, I would think?
This conceivably might have happened at the dealer's before I bought it; more likely, the marks happened on the road.
I washed over them and moved on. There simply is no winning the "keep your car like new" game in the real world. The interior space you have some control over; the exterior is the wild kingdom.
Like Isell said, there are a lot bigger things in life to worry about.
My Focus I'm sure wasn't flawless when I bought it either, I didn't bother to check and have since kicked a dent in the door anyway so I don't personally care.
Oh and no, I don't trash my vehicles, I've just learned there are far more important things to worry about than a little paint chip.
By the time a vehicle is a month or two old its got flaws, nothing you can do about it unless you park it in the house and keep it covered, but then what's the point of buying it?
Nexxxxxxxxxxt?
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Mark
All 3 of our vehicles have some form of damage these days. I backed the Titan into the parking garage wall and bent the bumper (not too bad), hubby dented the top of the tailgate on his Dodge while backing our trailer up with the tailgate down, and then the Focus has the little owie from my tizzy fit. Guess these 3 are keepers, lol.
"Blah-Blah bank is now accepting applications for terms up to 96 months for new cars..."
If you have to finance for that long, you can't afford it. It'll bite you in the long run, in one way or another...
Heck, we have had our 1997 Accord for 89 months and I think it still a wonderful car.
Anyone who gets, even a 60 month loan, is paying so much interest those first 2 years they are probably always upside down for the first 1/2. With a 96 month loan you're probably looking at 4-5 years before you see any appreciable principal reduction.
Why would you compare a 96 month loan to a lease, which averages 36 months? At least with a lease after those 36 months you are not still owing more than the car is worth.
My bet? Most people who would take out a 96 onth loan will A) try to trade it in in 2-3 years for something new that they just gotta have, or B)trade it in as soon as the loan is over, assuming the didn't do A.
In any case, these people will probably never be out from under a payment, so a lease might actually make some sense. Not as much as a financial management class and a cheaper car though.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Two things you have to establish: (1) what is the exact amount of rebates you're entitled to, and (2) are they in your car deal, and if so, where does it show on your contract..
You need to schedule a meeting with the dealer GM and get this ironed out ASAP - not tomorrow, not next week.
Lying is a strong word, implying deliberate intent. Sometimes people do make mistakes.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
A 60 month loan is fine if you plan to keep the car at least 4 years, As I have found out the hard way a few times. A 96 month loan is nuts though.
A car lease, however, allocates the same amount to principal and interest each month.
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kyfdx
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Therefore, what I am paying in rent is more than what you are paying to own the car.
It seems like it would be cheaper for me to just buy the car in the first place.
Of course, since I have never rented a car and I haven't had a car loan since 1978, it just may be possible that I don't know what I am talking about.
It isn't for everyone.. but if you finance, there really isn't a "price difference".
regards,
kyfdx
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.......nah.....too easy.
;-)
I have two auto loans now, both are compound interest, meaning they charge interest by the day instead of month. One with Bank of America and one with my credit union. I've never had a car loan that was simple interest.
You are correct that, all other factors equal, it should be cheaper to buy/finance than lease, due to the orig fee and disposal fee (if any).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
this is only true if you buy out the leased vehicle after the lease term. 85% of leased vehicles are turned in.
If you could have gotten my into my Acura TL for $518/mo. on a 42 month note, I would have done it in a heartbeat. Instead, I pay $518/month to use 43% of the car's value over the next 42 months.
The equity that you get by purchasing a car isn't free. You have to pay the principal to the noteholder to get it back when you sell/trade it. Someone my age (26) that knows he would have a car payment over the next 42 months, whether leasing new or buying used, would rather lease new because of warranty issues, reduced R&M, etc. I wouldn't have gotten into leasing if I planned on leasing forever. I plan on paying cash for my next car.
One more thing, Cole. I guess you never considered using your $518 per month to buy a Civic. After 42 months you could have sold the car and had some cash in hand, which would have made it even easier to pay cash for your next car.
Of course, for all I know you are just finishing up medical school and plan to have enough cash to buy whatever car you want in 42 months, so there is no need to suffer driving a Civic in the meantime. If so, congratulations!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
And just what's wrong with a Civic? Damn things are bulletproof. I drive a '91 Civic and it just won't die. I know cause I keep trying to kill it but my Scottish heritage won't let me buy a new car as long as this one still runs so well. Cursed genetic heritage....
I am new to the list, and tried searching "sticker" for this information, but just couldn't look thru 10 pages of results. So please pardon me if this information was answered already.
I am considering buying a Chevy Impala. There are 3 super-large GM dealers in my area, all under one name. There are no other GM dealerships in the area--covers about 20 miles. Each one has Buicks, Chevys, Pontiacs... One thing I am noticing about them--they don't have the "Monroney" window sticker on the window! That sticker is a Federal law, and it's the only way you know what options are on the car and sticker price. It comes from the factory. Instead, they have a hang tag from the rear view mirror telling the MSRP (the MSRP that they say it is), the discount they will give you (they said $2,000), the rebate available (which they said was $2,000 when I went on Wednesday), and the total, which they call their "best price." I don't feel comfortable buying from these guys, and I hope other Chevy dealers aren't removing the stickers. I did see a sticker that was peeling off the '05 Impala car I was checking it out on Wednesday(it's hot out in this part of the country), but I don't know what to do about their not following Federal Law.
I am guessing they are trying to put together a "no-dicker" type of operation. I could go out of my area and see other dealerships. If they aren't following the sticker law, what else aren't they doing properly???
I would like your comments on this.
Thanks so much in advance!
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Why wouldn't I drive a Civic? Because it doesn't fit my needs, perceived or real.
Really didn't mean to reopen the lease vs. buy debate (is that Bowke I hear at the door??), just pointing out that it is simply an alternate method of financing, and responding to Bobst's question.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
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Usually the blue book value of a car is greater than the price you would get if you sold the car. I think it is better to take the money and get a new car.
That's the manufacturer's out, though lame, on many of the lemon law cases I see, because the warranty prescribes (every one I've seen) that there are to be "no modifications to the original vehicle"...