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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
To bleed: The ignition switch must be off and the electrical connectors for the ABS actuator disconnected (or battery ground disconnected). The order of bleeding is left front, right front, left rear and right rear.
Your mechanic may need to clean that valve (flushing my system probably clogged it) and make certain the 'out of the ordinary' bleeding order is followed.
I bet some of the poor mileage posts for these vehicles are due to locked brakes.
As for the the gear shifter -- it should not rattle also I don't think that there is lumbar adjustemt on the seat.
I'm no expert, but here are a couple of possibilities. If you replaced the caliper, it could be a collapsed flexible brake line. These can restrict the flow of brake fluid back to the master cylinder and cause the same symptoms as a stuck caliper.
The Villager/Quest also has some sort of valve on the master cylinder that can clog up and cause the same symptoms. I'm sorry I don't recall exactly what it's called. I belong to an email list that discusses these vans and I recall this same problem happening to a couple of other members. One (handy) person was able to get it functioning properly by removing and cleaning it.
You might want to find a place that is familiar with these vans to get it worked on. In any case, this does not sound like it necessarily has anything to do with the ABS if it is otherwise functioning, and is not tripping the ABS light.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Thanks for the help!
Also, how do you change channels on the console t.v.?
The upper rear vents on the 99-02 Quest/Villager will not supply heated air, they are only for a/c or ventilation. The rear heat air is supplied through vents located under the front seats.
Dave
I am new to the site and have learned so much by reading the previous posts. I have a 96 Mercury Villager and it recently started having problems gathering speed and kind of lurching if I would try to accelerate to quickly. Now, it won't even start. We are thinking that it may be the fuel filter. Where is the fuel filter located on the 96 Villager? (Keep your fingers crossed that it's not the fuel pump-I really don't want to deal with taking the gas tank out). Thanks for any help you can give me. :sick:
I've changed both the upstream and downstream o2 sensors, haven't messed with the knock sensor because the Tech manual says that the KS will not trip the computer itself and I'm ready to change the plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor but fear I'll have to change the distributor as well (it's pricey!).
Please, if you found a sure resolution for this let me know :-[
Thanks,
John
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Pr- oduct_Code=V41-TBKITA
Timing Belt Kit for the Quest includes:
Timing belt(1)
Timing belt tensioner(1)
Tensioner spring(1)
Tensioner stud(1)
Front crankshaft oil seal(1)
Camshaft oil seals(2)
A/C Compressor drive belt(1)
Fan and alternator drive belt(1)
Powersteering drive belt(1)
Water pump assembly(1)
Thermostat(1)
I've searched several forums to see if anyone has a real "fix" for this combination of codes. The closest I've come is a Maxima owner (3.0l engine they had in the 98 and earlier quest/villager) who said that changing the ignition coils did the trick for him. Anyone with a 99 or later 3.3l engine with these codes and what you found to correct them.
I've changed the downstream o2 sensor and the upstream sensor to no avail. I've read someone talking about their mechanic suggesting rotor, distributor cap and plugs and wires while you're at it, but again no word as to any resolution.
I'm ready to change each of these items along with the distributor as I got a very cheap deal on one recently. It runs OK, but I guess I'm a bit obsessive with the blasted cel!
The way I understand it, the knock sensor is likely coming on as a result of a fault in the O2 heater causing the engine to idle more roughly and then the knock sensor is kicking in? Don't know if I understand that correctly or not, I've just read the the ks will not trip the computer itself.
Please help!
John
HELP amy ideas.
I have a problem turning at low speed. When I try to park, I can't. The noise is a loud squeal and I almost have to stand on the wheel to turn it. While I drive on the highway the steering is fine.
Does this sound like the powersteering pump or rack and pinion?
The timing belt has not been changed yet and I need a new exhaust. Some of these things I can do myself, but I wonder if I should sell it and trade for something else.
P.S. other than gerneral maintenance, the van has treated me well for 100,000 miles.
Any Ideas will be appreciated.
Paul
After taking a closer look at the belts and pulleys I have more "bad news". The belts are cracking and the water pump is leaking past the pulley. Timing belt needs to be changed as well. The trans. fluid could be causing the p/s belt to slip and cause the noise or I could be looking at changing the p/s pump and tensioner assy.
This is a job beyond my ability and skill. How much will this repair run?
Thanks Paul
Paul, I've been encountering a similar problem. I just purchased this vehicle recently and have noticed lately there is a squeeling noise at low speeds (i.e. while parking or stopped). If it is the power steering pump, I've priced one at Advance Auto for $158.88 with free shipping. Does anyone else know of a vendor that would be cheaper than that for a reman. pump? Also, how difficult would it be to replace that part? I'm still waiting on the Haynes repair manual that I ordered for the Quest, so I'm not sure what the job would entail.
Thanks,
Adam
1. does the vechile require and special type of Xmission fluid or coolant?
2. what type of gas mileage do you see in similar model years. I get 18-21 mpg.
Thanks, Pat
Mn_pat, my '99 Quest gets around 24 to 27 on the road; all time high was 29.9. We usually run with bulky camping gear but not too much weight (two people) but often have a canoe on top that shaves a mile or so mpg off.
Steve, Host
Runs O.K. for about 20 Mins Then it misses bad
Had Codes read reset codes and it did it again
Codes are Crankshaft Position Sensor and Knock Sensor
Have the Crankshaft Position Sensor on Order but I am wondering about the Knock Sensor and if there is
another problem causing this.
Thanks
Thanks
I priced a pulley from Advance Auto they would have to special order for about $100. BUT that's $100 more than I wanted to spend so I cut a 7/16" socket in half, filed out the inside a bit and used that for the missing bearing.
Anyway, that's worth checking out if your powersteering is squeeling and it won't improve from tightening the belt. It may be your bearing.
I am wondering if you you can tell me where the rear relay is? I can't find it.
I've isolated the problem to the rear relay. The front works good. The rear is dead.
thanks
Tony
waywat2001
This is actually not too complicated a fix. You should just have a soldering iron, some solder, a 1" wire, and maybe some flux.
If your van is like my '93 Nissan Quest, your rear relay will be accessable behind the radio console. There's one screw that holds the console in place. Once you find that and take it out, you should be able to pry that radio console off with a screwdriver or something.
Directly on the rear side of the controls for the front and rear air, etc, you will see a circuit board. (I'm trying to do this from memory, so if this isn't exactly correct and you can't follow, let me know and I'll give more elaborate directions as a follow-up).
I believe there were a few screws holding on the circuit board. For repairs, you'll need to remove the circuit board from all the stuff that is wired to it, etc. Once you've isolated the board, look for a little box. I think it was black, but it's going to have 4 legs soldered into the board. This is the relay.
Again, if yours is like mine was, you'll see if you look closely that one of the legs soldered to the board has a tiny crack along the base. This has happened because of too much current going through it (so I've read). Now you can do one of two things to fix it:
-first you can resolder the leg to the board with more solder OR
-second you can resolder the leg AND solder the little 1" wire from the resoldered leg to the other solder that leg goes to.
I used the first method and my rear air is working fine now. However, I recommend the second method (hindsight is 20/20) because adding the 1" wire will make the path for that current BIGGER which will in theory prevent the same fault from occuring again from too much current through that leg.
After the repair, put the board back in and TEST IT before you put it all back together... just in case. I can't tell you how many times I've put something back together without testing it first and taking it apart all over again because it didn't work.
I hope this helps,
Adam
While inserting a mechanical fix to keep the relay always in one position is an option, it should not be the primary.
The amount of time that it would take to resolder the leg, cut open the relay and insert a washer would be the same as or would exceed the amount of time it would take to resolder the leg and add the additional 1" wire path. (see above)
-Adam
My Quest is very sluggish when starting from a stopped position. It almost acts like it's going to stall sometimes. When the engine it cold, it seems to be a bit worse, but it still does it when the engine is warmed up.
I bought a fuel filter to replace that (just hoping)... and I'm going to check the resistance reading on the fuel injectors later on too probably...
Anyone know what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Adam :confuse:
dhoff, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #1785, 25 Mar 2005 8:29 pm
Steve, SUVs & Speed Shop Host