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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    I was planning on cleaning out the air intake path up to the throttle body too... I hope one of these things is it. I got some BG cleaner for it; I heard their additives were good. Can anyone substantiate that? At any rate, it says on the can it will clean out dirt, carbon, varnish, etc. w/o damaging any plastic parts, so I'm going to try it.

    Thanks, Steve. Now all I need is time. ;)
    -Adam
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    Has anyone replaced the left (or either) of the CV joints that could tell me how long it will take to change out the left side?
    The Haynes manual I have mentions a prybar as the only tool out of the ordinary (sockets, wrenches, star hexes, etc) that I would need to take it off. Are there any suprises that await me?
    Any info would be appreciated.
    -Adam
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    This won't be the cheapest thing to do, but you could replace the rusted parts. That would probably be better in the long run anyway; especially if you plan to keep the van.
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    I have replaced the left side on my 99 villager. It actually wasn't too bad to do. The only real suggestion i have is that I removed the ball joint to make the removal of the axle easier for me. It gave me a little more room to work with.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I did my passenger side a year ago (new axle and boot). It was pretty straightforward but I had a mechanic friend help. I remember reading somewhere that the driver's side axle "pops" in and out more firmly than the passenger's side.

    Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    That's what Haynes says to do too. I had someone tell me the job should only take about an hour, but I've never changed out amy CV before. It looks a little more daunting than to just be one hour. I'll probably end up doing it today or Sunday though.
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, Steve. I think it was the throttle body. It was covered in gunk on the inside... I cleaned out everything from the throttle body and tried to get what I could from the intake manifold. It already seems to have made a difference. Even if that wasn't totally the problem, it needed to be done... it was very, very dirty. Now I can save that other fuel filter I bought for when it needs it. :shades:
  • athiker95athiker95 Member Posts: 4
    I was curious as to whether you found out an answer to your squeaking when upshifting. I recently bought a '95 Villager GS with 187K and it does the same thing - just a momentary tiny squeak when it upshifts into 3rd I believe. Anything to be concerned about?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • athiker95athiker95 Member Posts: 4
    I have a '95 Villager with 187K on it - the shifter on the column is pretty sloppy. And it gets pretty hard sometimes to shift from P into R. Usually it goes past R and into N and then I have to back it up to get it into R. Anyone have similar shifter problems and is there an easy fix?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • lexx3lexx3 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 97 villager, with 240k on it. a very reliable van. the rear heat/ac system is controlled by a small relay on the front control curcuit board. a bad design i think, because mine went and when i checked the board, i noticed where the relay was the board showed signs of burning from the high current flow. i replaced the relay with higher current model and it worked.i'm having problems with the wipers as well,but i think my problem is with the control module in the engine compartment.i've replaced the power lock motors on the pass. and side doors when they started to give me problems,they work great now. my only real problem right now is the egr insuffinent flow. i seem to have vacuum problem because my egr valve won't move but if i place a vacuum to the valve it moves.i'll check it out soon.
  • phil16phil16 Member Posts: 2
    I've have the same make, model and year with the same noise. I've tried to locate the problem but no luck so far. Have you been able to fix it?
  • budman007budman007 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Nissan Quest Van, The problems are...it runs very heavy and sluggish most of the time. However, the last few months there is a new twist, If your going say 50 mph on the road normally, all of a sudden the van loses all gas and everything just shuts down(power wise) you have to put it in neutral and hold it down to the floor for it to keep drawing gas, then it takes off again. I think it would die if you didnt pop it until neutral. This has happened going from the slowest 30mph up to the other day at 80mph on an open highway....it feels like you just take your foot of the gas and starts slowing, then as you pump or hold the pedal, it tries and and tries to get gas. Now, I have saw posts about the throttle bottle and I am going to attempt to clean it myself this week(thanks for the instructions I found on this site), but I think they maybe more then this. Last time when we took it in after the first year for it being sluggish they charge 400.00 to clean the injectors and say it's the same thing, but I can't believe it....any ideas? Air filter is a bit dirty, but not that bad...Also gas milage is a scary 15 hwy, 12 city!!! HELP!!!
  • budman007budman007 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Nissan Quest Van, The problems are...it runs very heavy and sluggish most of the time. However, the last few months there is a new twist, If your going say 50 mph on the road normally, all of a sudden the van loses all gas and everything just shuts down(power wise) you have to put it in neutral and hold it down to the floor for it to keep drawing gas, then it takes off again. I think it would die if you didnt pop it until neutral. This has happened going from the slowest 30mph up to the other day at 80mph on an open highway....it feels like you just take your foot of the gas and starts slowing, then as you pump or hold the pedal, it tries and and tries to get gas. Now, I have saw posts about the throttle bottle and I am going to attempt to clean it myself this week(thanks for the instructions I found on this site), but I think they maybe more then this. Last time when we took it in after the first year for it being sluggish they charge 400.00 to clean the injectors and say it's the same thing, but I can't believe it....any ideas? Air filter is a bit dirty, but not that bad...Also gas milage is a scary 15 hwy, 12 city!!! HELP!!! :confuse:
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    I have a 1996 Villager. The rear air quit working some time ago. Recently, I replaced the front a/c control unit with a "recycled" unit, and the rear air worked perfectly. For about 1 week. Now the rear air does not come on until 5-10 minutes after I have started the van. Once it does start working, it works great. Any ideas?
  • bill321bill321 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Mercury Villager. I have to replace the passenger side side view mirror. It looks like I have to remove the interior door panel to do this. Any tips or tricks for doing this?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My driver's side mirror has broken again so I'll be taking the door panel off soon to apply yet another coat of epoxy to it.

    After removing the screw under the plastic cap in the door handle area (assuming your trim is similar to my '99 Quest's), you pop the retaining fasteners from the interior panel. I start at the bottom edges and work my way up, usually just using my hands.

    You'll probably break a few of the fasteners, but I hear that replacements are available at the big box department stores. I'd guess there are 8 or 10 fasteners to pop loose. My panel seems to fit fine even though a couple are missing now.

    Once the fasteners are loose, the panel lifts upwards and then away from the window. I usually remove the power window/door lock switch before doing this to get it out of the way.

    Then you should see 3 bolts holding the mirror assembly on the door frame. Once they are out you can disconnect the wiring and ease the mirror assembly off the sheet metal.

    Where did you find your replacement and how much did it cost? Epoxy isn't getting any cheaper. ;)

    Steve, SUVs & Speed Shop Host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check this link under subtopics - usually it's a bad solder connection at the rear blower motor relay:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/.

    We really should get that info in here in case that link ever goes down...

    Steve, SUVs & Speed Shop Host
  • stephen16stephen16 Member Posts: 4
    Today I was rear-ended while sitting at a stop light and the other driver took off. The police officer who filled out the report said the bumper looked pretty good, and probably didn't need any repair as he filled out the report. The only definite damage I can see is a small scratch. The bumper feels solid when I push on it from behind, but when I push on the sides where it connects to the van it seems a little too loose.

    I can't tell if there is any serious damage or not. Does anyone have any experice with rear bumpers? I know my insurance will cover any repairs, but it infuriates me that it will probably result in my insurance premium going up because of some jerk driver. I'll take any advice I can get in trying to decide whether or not to take the van into a shop.
  • bill321bill321 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if it was possible for mere mortals, or if I had to go to the dealer ($350!).

    The best price I found was at www.automotivemirrors.com. It's around $75. But I didn't look very long, and didn't look into shiping, etc. I have never dealt with them, so I can't really recommend them, but I think I'll give them a try.
  • fljewelsfljewels Member Posts: 2
    Have you tried replacing the fuel filter(s). My Villager died in the middle of the road 2 years ago. We had the fuel filter replaced and everything worked fine.
  • budman007budman007 Member Posts: 3
    No, haven't tried that, I talked to a Nissan tech yesterday and he said it sounds like the Air Flow Meter, but will have charge me out the gazoo to check and see. I did clean the throttle body yesterday(which was simple with the instructions here) Thanks for that peeps!!! Anyway, it does seem to be a bit better, but not sure the problem is. I might be able to change the Fuel Filter myself, not sure...will have to look it up...anyone know? Thanks ALL!!!
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    I, too, thought it might be the bad solder connection. But, I wonder if maybe something else is going on because the rear air does come on 5-10 minutes into the drive every time. And, some of the time, the rear air comes on as soon as the a/c is turned on, as it should. Very unusual problem. Thanks for any ideas.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe it's one of those "cold" solder joints and works fine until it warms up. Then the gap widens and the connection quits. Nothing more fun than a sporadic problem to try to troubleshoot. :confuse:

    Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
  • gsusinmegsusinme Member Posts: 12
    I was thinking that also. Heat expansion of the solder joint could cause an intermittent fault. It's definitely worth checking out and it should take less than 1 hour.
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    Thanks for the advice. I will check out the solder joint. The web site link Steve gave me is very helpful. It still seems strange to me that the air will turn on after about 5-10 minutes, but does not work at first start-up. I will check it out in the next few days. Any other thoughts will be appreciated.
  • nowoldmechnowoldmech Member Posts: 6
    Pretty good guess. Don't who started this thread but let me tell you what I know. Mounted behind the A/C control panel is a circuit board with a couple of relays. I suspect that its vibration that cracks the board. One or more traces will be broken. Fixing the board is relatively easy, just bridge each break with a short length of bare wire and solder. If you don't know how to solder then don't attempt to repair. The hard part is getting to the circuit board. That requires removal of the bezel that surrounds the a/c control panel and radio. There are two screws that must be removed. As I remember one of the screws in the ash tray compartment. Then the bezel is held in with snap fittings that will give if you pry carefully. Use a baord flat edge to pry with or you will damage or crack the bezel. If you get this far the a/c panel is held in with four screws. The panel wiring has very little give. The battery should be disconnected at this point cause there is more than one high current circuit that you could short. You may have to remove the electrical connectors from the back of the panel in order to get to the circuit board. If you got this far then you are pretty handy and should be able to figure out the rest.

    I know this much because I have a 1994 Villager with rear air that had a similar problem. I had confirmation of this problem because I also fix a friend's 1993 that had been diagnosed as costing $1000 to repair. His was not fixed for a few years and resulted in the fan switch going into melt down twice. If your's is warm or even hot to the touch I strongly suggest you get the pc board fixed or replaced.

    By the way there are three lamps in the control panel, two of which you can replace. Those two light the two knobs on either side of the panel. The third lamp lights the panel itself but is not available as a replacement. That bulb is behind the pc board and the back of the control panel. You wont even see it if you dont remove the pc board mounting hardware. However,I know how to replace/ :) fix that lamp but that's another story.

    Good luck and by all means be careful!
  • motonationmotonation Member Posts: 34
    Remember that the blower resistors only come into play on the lower 3 fan speed settings; your blower should work on high (4) even if the resistor(s) is bad. Selecting high speed on the blower bypasses the resistor electrically.

    The resistors are located right near the fan motors and are held in place by (2) 8mm head-size bolts; each has a 4-wire electrical connector on it, and is approx 1"x2".
    :)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Just took my panel off - wish I had a digicam. There's another screw to remove on the top right of the door panel. Ease off the bezel around the door handle above the switches. I always forget to do that and they break easily. Got lucky this morning.

    After removing the screws go ahead and pull out the switch assembly and remove the two power connectors. A screwdriver helps to push in on the release to work them free.

    There's a gap in the bottom right of the panel that looks like the best place to start popping the connectors loose. May as well disconnect the puddle light so you can move the panel across the room out of the way.

    If you get this far, the rest should be easy.

    Steve, SUVs and Speed Shop Host
  • ktrjcktrjc Member Posts: 4
    Hello

    We have a problem with our front A/C blowing warm air. The rear is working fine and blows great cold air. Any idea what could be creating this problem and how do I fix it. Help it is too HOT :(

    Ken
  • omahakelleromahakeller Member Posts: 1
    I am in the same situation with the door locks going crazy. It only happens when I have batteries in the remote. Any solutions? Thanks, T
  • baffled5baffled5 Member Posts: 1
    I don't usually need to do any rapid accelerating but when the van makes a hissing noise in third gear as it gets near the upper end of the range. Any ideas what might be causing this? It seeems to be a consistent pitch. The van has just turned over 100K miles. :confuse:

    Thanks
  • motonationmotonation Member Posts: 34
    Do your front vents blow hot air even when the AC is off? Yes, I know it is summer, but what I mean is that, is the incoming fresh air being inadvertantly heated by your HVAC system? (Is heat being commanded regardless of the temp knob position?). You should easily be able to determine this at night or first thing in the morning.

    Since your rear system blows cold air, we know that your under-hood air conditioning components are ok, but it sounds as though there is an unwanted heat command...and his could be caused by your front control panel, a stuck heater valve, etc.

    Post back with more info and lets see if we can get you pointed in the right direction Ken :)
  • sherrellcrowsherrellcrow Member Posts: 2
    Say where is the EGRC Solenoid on the 99 villager with CA Emissions? Haynes manual gives no reference.
  • motonationmotonation Member Posts: 34
    For all who have asked before, here are the part numbers (Nissan & Ford) for the two blower motor resistors. These were purchased today for our '97Q...rear was inop, front changed just because it was starting to corrode. They were about $15 each from the Ford dealer.

    Front: Nissan p/n 27150-0B001, Ford p/n F3XH-19A706-BA
    Rear: Nissan p/n 27150-0B002, Ford p/n F5XH-19A706-AA

    Happy motoring!
  • justme50justme50 Member Posts: 1
    The control panel has an automatic button and also can control the rear AC fan speed. However, the only thing wrong is the fan switch for the front area. I turned it on and it went high and could not turn off. Next day it would worked okay then stopped blowing. Dealers says I can only replace at $600+ just for the part (they say I have to purchase the entire panel). Can I find the fan switch somewhere? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Reading my service manual for my '99 Quest can be a bear - it has a diagram of the EGRC-solenoid valve with two hoses going to the EGR valve and intake manifold collector off the throttle body and one hose (near the wiring harness connector) connected by a hose to the throttle body. Wiring goes to the ignition switch and ECM. There's another diagram that indicates the solenoid lives under the intake manifold collector on the left side of the engine as you face it. I'll try to dig my scanner out tonight and post it on my CarSpace album.

    Steve, SUVs and Speed Shop Host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Here's the link to the EGRC-Solenoid Valve stuff:

    CarSpace

    Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
  • sakevsakev Member Posts: 2
    Easy answer Ebay. Bought one for under $50. Easy to install. This site gives you instructions on removal installation under "inoperative rear blower".

    http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
  • mikejordanmikejordan Member Posts: 1
    I bought the complete panel from a junk yard today for 25.00. I had to take it out myself but it is easy. Remove the trim panel by pulling it off and take out the four screws holding the entire panel in. Unplug the wires and it comes out. It took 5 minutes.
  • ktrjcktrjc Member Posts: 4
    :sick: You hit the nail on the head. Warm air seems to be stuck in the on position (it appears as though heat is coming in from the engine). Even when the knob is only on vent. Thank you so much for posting back.
  • sherrellcrowsherrellcrow Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Steve for going to the trouble; mystery continues....probably a fault with the ECU; cannot explain the code 1400 otherwise, after checking circuits, etc.
  • ktrjcktrjc Member Posts: 4
    Oh yeah,

    This morning we noticed that when the switch is off "nothing" comes out as usual but when the switch is on the warm air is flowing!
  • motonationmotonation Member Posts: 34
    Glad to see you are still on this Ken - many forums have people posting problems but no follow-up info.

    Anyway, that brings us back to my first post - either your front control panel is stuck in heat mode, or the actual heater valve is stuck. Unfortunately, I haven't dug into the bowels of this particular HVAC system, so I couldn't tell you how to get to the actual heater valve itself. Perhaps someone else can chime in here?
  • ktrjcktrjc Member Posts: 4
    Been a little busy working on my bike and another vehicle, got side track :-)

    Hey any help would be great. I am ready to take the dash off and look around. How can I tell if its the control panel? Anyone have any advise on the easiest way to get to the heater valve?

    Thanks
  • oilman78oilman78 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks and I agree. The flex lines, front calipers, and pads were the first parts replaced and did not solve the problem. It seemed to come to that "nut" on the master cylinder. The brakes have worked fine since.
  • oilman78oilman78 Member Posts: 3
    See my post #2362. Check a "Haynes" manual as you are supposed to disconnect some ABS stuff before bleeding. That nut on top of the master cylinder has one inlet and four outlets (or vice versa). It could be one or more channels is plugged resulting in one wheel/brake operating as designed and the other dragging.
  • joemontejoemonte Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get your flashing airbag light solved? I have a similar problem when I had to work in the dash and disconnect the computer.
  • gadawgfangadawgfan Member Posts: 4
    My drivers side window quit rolling up this morning and I have called all auto parts places in the book for a new motor, $60.00 bucks! It will roll down, so it seems the motor is fine, but will not roll up. Hubby said the mechanic told him it was the switch, would that be it? Please help! :D :confuse:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Those switches are a bit notorious for failing. The best thing to try first is some electrical cleaner spray to blast the carbon out of the switch. Try a Search This Discussion in here for more details.

    Here's a photo of my switch when I cut into it - the idea is to get the spray in this area to float the gunk out. And it's not necessary to dismantle the switch to get the spray in (now they tell me :shades: ).

    Steve, Host
    SUVs and Speed Shop
  • gadawgfangadawgfan Member Posts: 4
    See if your catalatyc convertor is clogged. I know this sounds crazy, but my hubby's dodge was doing the same thing and that was the prob.
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