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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
Thanks, Steve. Now all I need is time.
-Adam
The Haynes manual I have mentions a prybar as the only tool out of the ordinary (sockets, wrenches, star hexes, etc) that I would need to take it off. Are there any suprises that await me?
Any info would be appreciated.
-Adam
Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
After removing the screw under the plastic cap in the door handle area (assuming your trim is similar to my '99 Quest's), you pop the retaining fasteners from the interior panel. I start at the bottom edges and work my way up, usually just using my hands.
You'll probably break a few of the fasteners, but I hear that replacements are available at the big box department stores. I'd guess there are 8 or 10 fasteners to pop loose. My panel seems to fit fine even though a couple are missing now.
Once the fasteners are loose, the panel lifts upwards and then away from the window. I usually remove the power window/door lock switch before doing this to get it out of the way.
Then you should see 3 bolts holding the mirror assembly on the door frame. Once they are out you can disconnect the wiring and ease the mirror assembly off the sheet metal.
Where did you find your replacement and how much did it cost? Epoxy isn't getting any cheaper.
Steve, SUVs & Speed Shop Host
http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/.
We really should get that info in here in case that link ever goes down...
Steve, SUVs & Speed Shop Host
I can't tell if there is any serious damage or not. Does anyone have any experice with rear bumpers? I know my insurance will cover any repairs, but it infuriates me that it will probably result in my insurance premium going up because of some jerk driver. I'll take any advice I can get in trying to decide whether or not to take the van into a shop.
The best price I found was at www.automotivemirrors.com. It's around $75. But I didn't look very long, and didn't look into shiping, etc. I have never dealt with them, so I can't really recommend them, but I think I'll give them a try.
Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
I know this much because I have a 1994 Villager with rear air that had a similar problem. I had confirmation of this problem because I also fix a friend's 1993 that had been diagnosed as costing $1000 to repair. His was not fixed for a few years and resulted in the fan switch going into melt down twice. If your's is warm or even hot to the touch I strongly suggest you get the pc board fixed or replaced.
By the way there are three lamps in the control panel, two of which you can replace. Those two light the two knobs on either side of the panel. The third lamp lights the panel itself but is not available as a replacement. That bulb is behind the pc board and the back of the control panel. You wont even see it if you dont remove the pc board mounting hardware. However,I know how to replace/ fix that lamp but that's another story.
Good luck and by all means be careful!
The resistors are located right near the fan motors and are held in place by (2) 8mm head-size bolts; each has a 4-wire electrical connector on it, and is approx 1"x2".
After removing the screws go ahead and pull out the switch assembly and remove the two power connectors. A screwdriver helps to push in on the release to work them free.
There's a gap in the bottom right of the panel that looks like the best place to start popping the connectors loose. May as well disconnect the puddle light so you can move the panel across the room out of the way.
If you get this far, the rest should be easy.
Steve, SUVs and Speed Shop Host
We have a problem with our front A/C blowing warm air. The rear is working fine and blows great cold air. Any idea what could be creating this problem and how do I fix it. Help it is too HOT
Ken
Thanks
Since your rear system blows cold air, we know that your under-hood air conditioning components are ok, but it sounds as though there is an unwanted heat command...and his could be caused by your front control panel, a stuck heater valve, etc.
Post back with more info and lets see if we can get you pointed in the right direction Ken
Front: Nissan p/n 27150-0B001, Ford p/n F3XH-19A706-BA
Rear: Nissan p/n 27150-0B002, Ford p/n F5XH-19A706-AA
Happy motoring!
Steve, SUVs and Speed Shop Host
CarSpace
Steve, SUVS and Speed Shop Host
http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
This morning we noticed that when the switch is off "nothing" comes out as usual but when the switch is on the warm air is flowing!
Anyway, that brings us back to my first post - either your front control panel is stuck in heat mode, or the actual heater valve is stuck. Unfortunately, I haven't dug into the bowels of this particular HVAC system, so I couldn't tell you how to get to the actual heater valve itself. Perhaps someone else can chime in here?
Hey any help would be great. I am ready to take the dash off and look around. How can I tell if its the control panel? Anyone have any advise on the easiest way to get to the heater valve?
Thanks
Here's a photo of my switch when I cut into it - the idea is to get the spray in this area to float the gunk out. And it's not necessary to dismantle the switch to get the spray in (now they tell me :shades: ).
Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop