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Throw some tranny slip-fix in there and see what happens. I personally use Lucas transmission fix to top it off regularly.
GOOD LUCK DLM1
As soon as it was damp outside if wouldn't start. I hope this will fix yours.
For a last couple of month i`m experiencing a rough idle problem.When engine starts RPM goes very high and when i`m shifting from P car jumps forward like crazy.Since I`m from Europe it almost impossible to find a good mechanic for an american car here.I changed an Idle Air Control Valve since the old one was dead but it didn`t help much.Now when engine starts it runs smoother but when i shift to D - same story and when i shift back to P the RPM goes even higher than before.
Can anyone help me?Thank you.
My previous 2001 AWD Safari van did that. re: It too had consistant idle. My local mechanic investigated and discovered its throttle body was "gummed up" with too much dirt and crud. He cleaned this area with engine cleaner spray and it worked great afterwards. As a suggestion, remove your van's inner cabin engine cover (aka: "dog house") and do a good visual inspection of the engine's throttle control body area. If needed, do clean this engine area with lots of engine cleaner stuff as well.
Hope this helps...
.
1) Intermittent crank/no crank condition.
2) May crank 6 times successfully, then no crank condition.
3) After leaving the vehicle overnight it will crank 1 or more times, then no crank condition.
4) Battery, cables, connections ok (including at starter).
5) When no crank, I do have lights, hear fuel pump run to pressurize fuel lines, etc.
6) When no crank, the solenoid is silent (no click, click, click).
7) When does crank will immediately start engine
8) Replaced the ignition switch already.
9) Starter/solenoid assembly about 1-1/2 years old.
10) Is there a mechanical relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid? If so, where is it located?
11) I have purchased a new starter, but hesitate to install it if there is a bad relay. This Astro does not have a fuse block under the hood as later models did.
12) What have I missed???
Thanks!
I have found the problem with this van and the bucking issue that it was having. First, I would have to say, that there were actually two problems. I replaced the air mass meter (found a brand new one on ebay in January for $60). This did correct the issue that I was having with bucking at 55 mpg or faster, however, I was still having a problem with starting the van. Up until about 2 yrs ago it started on the first crank everytime (I've owned this van for over 120k miles and 5 yrs)--however since then it has always been that I had to give it one crank, turn the key back then hit it again and it would always start. Last week, however, the van began to miss very badly on one particular morning and it then stalled and would not restart. It turns out that there was no gas flowing--the fuel filter was good--problem was that the fule pump was shot. I replaced that and it starts like it did when I first bought it--on the first crank, everytime.
http://www.carspace.com/guides/
My 97 Astro has two "upstream" O2 sensors, and two "downstream" sensors. The first of the two downstream sensors is the one just before the catalytic converter. Each set of sensors has a different type of connector on it. I didn't bother trying to get to the sensors with the exhaust in place because I was replacing the cat as well. As near as I can tell, your best bet is to drop the exhaust down by removing the three bolts on each side that connect the pipes to the exhaust manifolds. You don't need to completely remove the exhaust, but just drop it down in order to access the sensors. The thing to watch out for is that one or more of the studs could break off while loosening the nuts. This is not all that uncommon. If one does break, then your in for a headache trying to remove the broken stud. Have a back-up plan ready. Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Good luck.
thanks
j
I have a 1995 Astro Van V-6 4WD (250.000 miles...a lot I know...) and this is my story:
The engine shot down, and the "Check engine" light started to pop up. I parked on the side of the road, and a few seconds later, I started the engine with no problems( no funny nosies, no smoke) but it shot down again.
Finally I towed away my van, once in my house ( about 2 hours later) I tried again, and the engine started and shot down in a few seconds. Now it doesn't start any more (sounds like it is going to start but nothing).
In the past, I noticed some strange behaviors with the ligths ( when I turn on the ligths they don't start inmediatly, they take some seconds to do it).
Some times, when I turn the ligths off, the engine shots down...
..I already checked fuses and they are OK, so my question is; any idea what kind of problem do I have? what could I do next?
This is my work horse, and I don't have any money to buy another one, I need to fix this a soon is possible, and if I can without a mechanic ( $$$$).
Thank you very much for your atention.
Fernando
Anyway...what can I do maintenance wise to extend its life? I change oil every 3000 miles and have replaced a lot of parts, heater fan(needs replaceing again, clutches, brakes, light for instrument in dash(need to do again). You name it we have done it. But the thing is great. What can I do to get a little more out of it? Hae never done anything to the wheel bearings-do they ever wear out since they get used every time the car moves. Stuff like that I am wondering about.
I am a chimney sweep and getting cloes to retirement age and hope this lasts until I retire. The old van is a trademark around town and gets a lot of comment.
Doug :shades:
The only advice I have for you is keep doing whatever you've been doing. If it aint broke, don't fix it. Great job and enjoy your retirement!
Steve
Things to increase a vehicle's life &/or maintain its current quality are:
- Do "general" maintenance items (like engine oil changes) "on time". And when changing engine oil, use the good stuff. One should never go cheap `quality` when it comes to lubrication (like engine oils).
- Ensure its brakes, muffler, gas lines, gas line filter, brake lines, engine belts are kept in great shape as well. If they are "looking old" or "calender old", then replace them. And don't be afraid to slide under your van and take long heard look at things. Many folks look at their outer "top site" but fail to look at the under side - which is much more important (IMO).
- Change its transmission ATF fluid and transmission pan filter every 3-5 years. I'd change every 3 years on your "drive every day" business van.
- Change its Rear End Axle oil every 3 years as well. Use the thicker #90 oil in its rear axle. If I remember correctly, the rear axles in Astro/Safari vans are "average" quality. If used as "every day" business vehicle, ensure its rear axle oil is kept new as well.
- Change its Main RAD fluid every 3 years in your "drive every day" business vehicle as well. In an older van, I'd use universal anifreeze. For older vehicles, stay away from that GM Dexcool stuff.
- If not do so already, I'd install a large size transission Aux LPD cooler in your van. Especially since you have a "drive every day" business van. Many tranny specialists say the 460LE transmissions don't like heat. Thus, reducing ATF heat by using an aux cooler is a great thing. Especially if you want to keep your van for many more years. Id install a large HD aux cooler - like: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/OC-1678.html Even if only internal hauling cargo with your van, a HD aux cooler makes its transmission last much longer (when compared to having no extra cooling ability at all).
- Every 3 months, inspect its under belly for oil / fluid leaks. If it starts to leak fluid, get it fixed ASAP. Especially if your vehicle's engine oil cooler lines start to leak.
- If living in snow/ice region, get your van rust proofed "every year". Less rust the better. Especially if you plan to keep your van for many more years.
- If replacing parts, always use "better then GM" replacement parts. Like Moog idler arm replacements. Ultra bright headlight bulb replacements ( http://www.sylvania.com/LearnLighting/LearnAutoLighting/FAQs/ ) , etc. etc.
- Being an "every day" business vehicle, I'd get an alignment done every other year as well. Especially if you like to drive over curbs or bounce off curbs. Having good alignment allows tires and steering parts to last much longer.
- No need to replace bearings that are working fine (or leaking oil). Thus, I'd leave the axle bearings "as is" - until they don't sound right.
If something isn't broke, no need to fix it. But if looking old, too rusty or leaking fluid, get it replaced. And replace major fluids every 3-5 years in your "drive every day" business vehicle as well...
Hope these ideas help....
.
.
I have not heard of this happening unless you dont cover with clean rags while doing the work ? I have normally trust him for a long time but wondering if the extra cost was due to sloppy work.
To add insult I got in my Van and drove away and it would not shift and the ABS light was on. He then said he thought it was on when I brought it in. A friend of mine was with me and just happend to have his code reader. Scanned it and found out he forgot to hook up the speed sensor. Would have thought after spending 1200 he would have taken it for a test drive.
A few years back, I had to "rebuild" the transmission in my 2001 Safari van. Was pulling away from a stop light (normal torque off the lights) and all of a sudden, "bang". I lost 3rd gear and "R" gear. My local transmission specialist rebuilt its tranny for $1,000 cash and afterwards, my van shifted better then factory. Amazing what a rebuilt transmission feels like (afterwards).
While rebuilding its transmission, my tranny specialist also recommended the install of oversized LPD tranny cooler. re: http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Cod- e=4590&Category_Code=trucool-coolers-hd&Product_Count=2
Got both done at the same time and my van worked great (until we sold it).
If not done already, do install an over sized LPD tranny cooler as well. Even if only driving the van as normal "soccer parent" vehicle. The 460LE tranny in the Astro/Safari van's don't like heat. Extra tranny cooler eliminates the "too much heat" situations...
Hope this helps...
.
My local mechanic was working on our other vehicle, leaned over the hood and his body weight accidentally broke the upper part of the grill. When I went to pick up my vehicle, he explained the problem and asked if I wanted it fixed (free of charge), or credit my account (of equal dollar value). Thus, showing he took "accountability" as well. He could have easily said - "NOPE - wasn't me" - lik your mechanic is doing with the debris.
My suggestion.... Look for another mechanic. Especially if this "lack of accountability" is more then 1 strike against him. If 3rd strike (for stuff like this), "he's out of there". And if wondering, I went through 4 mechanics before finding my current one - which I've been using for 16 years.
Hope this helps...
.
It rapidly got worse, since I was able to gain speed going up a steep grade w/o a foot on the gas. It got up to 85 mph.
Long and short of it was I got the thing to stop by that hardest of driving acts: Putting it into neutral and using up the brakes. Now the Astro is at a local dealer (I trust for repairs), with the gas pedal down to the floorboard. Any time you start the car it revs up as high as it can go, and has a bad odor to it, like fried brakes or burned trannny fluid.
Any suggestions as to the problem, or how to get it fixed?
Thanks! :confuse:
If it is stuck, I would wager a sticky cable somewhere or maybe a stuck connection at the throttle body where the cable connects to it...
http://www.weathertech.com/
thanks..fred
My next question is this; When do these things become to expensive to maintain? Just found out today I need a $300 set of front bearings in the van, and in the last 5K of miles I have pumped in a little over $1000 in repairs. My Patience is wearing thin!