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Comments
You may hit 10,000 before I get to 5,000 and before poor 'rocco gets out of his break-in period
Mike-- *chuckles loudly* hey! c'mon, I might break 2,000 this week-end! ...we'll see, that will be a milestone! :-b
Billy-- nope, haven't heard that. I'll have to listen more closely next time I'm at the pumps.
Let me ask the oil question that I wanted to ask last week: I've heard differing opinions on whether our cars come from the factory with a synthetic fill. The owner's manual recommends and states that the original fill is 0W-30. Billy, you stated that 0W-30 only comes in synthetic which I also thought. If this is true, then why will the dealers use dino oil when taking it to them for the free maintenance services? ...does this make any sense? If our cars come with synthetic oil from the factory then I'd have to think that the factory should also dictate to their dealers that synthetic be used throughout the free-maintenance period. What's going on here? Why should I have to bring my own Mobil1 when going in for my first service? Can anyone shed some light on this???
--'rocco
Rocco, well again I've never seen synthetic comes in 0W30 weight. THe Castro dino my service dept put in is of 10W30 weight. I hope they'll switch to 5W30 when it's winter time. Well the reason why they put synthetic on the first round....all I can think of is because the new engines endure much more wear and tear than broken-in engines so the synthetic oil should be able to work well even after all the junk and crap come out into the oil. Don't have a better explanation. But definitely the manual said we can use 0W30 or 5W30 in our engines.
Billy
My 1.8T quattro is all of 3000 miles old (still in diapers, actually), and I wanted to post a few comments. Basically, I LOVE this car (previous was a '88 Prelude), with a few minor quibbles. I love the general way it feels, very tight and safe. Great power, but a bit of turbo lag. Love the 5 speed, too. Road feel is excellent, seats are comfy, but I'd prefer a bit more steering boost at low speeds (I'm a one-finger parking lot kind of guy, but not with the A4). Dashboard and instruments are a pleasure to look at, but no change cup?? No rear cup holders?? Only one easily accessable front one?? And who thought up the wacky switches on the cruise control and intermittent wipers? Can you say 'unintuitive'? Sorry guys, time to get into any recent Japanese car and just copy those controls verbatim. And why no 'accessory' position to listen to the radio or open the garage with the engine off? Basic stereo is decent, but I blew out one speaker after 2 weeks (any suggestions on upgrading the speakers?). And did anyone actually drive the car with the sunroof all the way open before they started building them? The headliner vibrates so much below 50 mph that you can feel it in your kidneys. I know I can half-close the roof to stop it, but I really shouldn't have to.
While it may sound like I'm bitching about the car, nothing could be further from the truth. I love my car. It's just that it's _sooo_ close to being a 5 out of 5. It doesn't need more features, just better, more thoughtful execution of some of the ones already there. I know some of these issues are being addressed in the 2002 model, but.... I don't have one of those ;-)
My $.02
When you take your car in for first service, mention the headliner vibration problem with the sunroof open. I haven't experienced any problems like you describe on my 2000 A4 1.8T (is the deflector coming up when the sunroof opens?).
Having moved from Saab to Audi, the intermittent wipers were intuitive to me but the auto speed controls were reversed (took some getting used to). My other problem with Audi's cruise control is sometimes turning on the 'brights' when setting the cruise speed.
By the way, on the 2002, things like the cup holders, cruise control switches, and other convenience issues I've heard mentioned here have been improved (supposedly). It's nice to see that the design team agrees with you (maybe they read this forum too).
P.S. I think controls on Japanese cars are intuitive to people who are used to driving Japanese cars ...
whew! Okay, I'll now get off my patriotic soap box and get back to talking about cars!
Marty-- hmmm, yeah, I agree with the cruise control switch ...one of the most ergonomically deficient that I've seen on a vehicle. True, Japanese vehicles, for the most part, definitely have the best designed controls for the cruise control function. And I didn't realize until you mentioned it that the Homelink controls do not work without the ignition switch being on. To tell you the truth, I haven't even programmed the Homelink yet ...still using my own original door opener.
Billy-- My oil question was not really a question of weight/viscosity but type of oil... synthetic vs. dino. And no question as to the fact that synthetic is "better" than dino both as the original fill and for subsequent changes but the question is: why wouldn't Audi require their dealers to replace the factory fill synthetic with the same during the free-maintenance period? To me, it just doesn't make sense to go back to dino oil when the cars come from the factory with synthetic. As for viscosity, 0W-30, according to Mobil, is engineered for both extremes in temperature range. It claims it is beneficial for both extrememely hot temperatures (400 degrees F. I believe I read on their label) and extremely cold contditions (-65 degrees F. ...can't remember exactly if those are the correct temperatures they had on their labels but next time you're in Target, etc., take a look at a bottle of 0W-30). Because of what Mobil states, I'm going to use 0W-30 all year around.
--'rocco
I lucked out on flights coming home Saturday -- managed to get on both of the flights that I had booked months ago. And yeah, making the decision to fly home was kind of difficult, but part of my decisions was exactly what you alluded to: I thought that by flying, we'd be expressing a teeny bit of defiance or resolve to the terrorists. I think these guys really want to disrupt the country, and I think it's important that we show resolve and courage in everyday ways, without taking stupid risks. (And I realize that some people would think that flying at all right now is a stupid risk. To each his own.)
And now -- shifting back to trivial subjects -- you say that the Homelink controls don't work unless the ignition is on? Does that go for programming the Homelink too? When I couldn't program mine, I just figured that my garage-door opener was too old. Will try again....
Yeah, when programming the HomeLink transmitter, the ignition switch has to be on. I don't believe you'll have any difficulties programming it even though your door opener is old ...I'd have to assume that the HomeLink would accept the codes regardless. Let us know how it goes. I'm going to try to fool around with mine sometime this week now that we're talking about it and it's on my mind.
--'rocco
If your opener has "rolling codes" (codes that change each time the remote is activated ...however, I can't remember when this technology was introduced. My opener is about 10 years old but I think the rolling code technology was around even before that so yours still might possibly have this technology.), you'll see a button on the head of the opener. Push this button once (do not push and hold) then come back to the car and push and release the appropriate button on your HomeLink either 2 or 3 times. This has to be done after you've already followed the original programming steps.
*laughs* --but yeah, actually, my opener's own remote fits relatively perfectly right in front of the ash tray and blends in nicely with the decor of the interior and I tend to prefer that location anyway so I don't see what the big deal is about the HomeLink anyway.
--'rocco
--'rocco
Rocco -- Nope, my garage-door opener doesn't have rolling codes -- but I think AoA should hire you as a customer-service troubleshooter!
Finally had a chance to drive my 3-month-old A4 today, after being away from it for a week. What a great car. The highways were full of dumptrucks for some reason, so I'd hang back until a stretch opened up next to one of them, then I'd go blasting past. That turbo kick makes it hard to believe you're in a 4-cylinder. Then I'd hit the winding, hilly roads near home and get little boosts from the Tip, which I'm more and more impressed with. I always said I'd never go back to an automatic, but this is so much more versatile than most automatics. What a great car.
Accutally I didn't go w/ the Sport Pkg....I decided that because I live in the Northeast it wouldn't be worth the trouble of having to buy an extra set of tires and rims and then change them twice a year. I also wasn't thrilled about my wife trying to park next to the curb w/ the 17's...she has a Jeep and I don't know how long it would take her to adjust.
Karen-- hehehehe...
Oh, and talking to my parents yesterday, they seem to be leaning toward buying another Accord!!! *argh*
--'rocco
--'rocco
P.S. I have an '01 allroad, but the advice is the same. While at the dealer initiation for the allroad, my service tech was told directly by the Audi trainers that the car is filled with 0W-30 at the factory, and so I'm sticking with the same stuff, figuring they know what's best.
For my '98.5 A4 2.8Q, on the other hand, I've been using Mobil 1 5W-30 - no problems after 31,000 miles. With the turbo engines I believe the 0W-30 oil would add some measure of extra protection at startup and during warmup.
The label on a bottle of Mobil 1 gives the temperature extremes in which it protects. From what I can remember, I think it's -65 degrees F. to 400 degrees F. This would seem to substantiate the reasoning that anything but 0W-30 would not be necessary. Here is the page that Mobil states that 0W-30 "...offers unsurpassed protection if you drive during extreme-temperature conditions." http://www.mobil1.com/products/trisynth/oil_0w30.jsp
Any other comments from anybody to back up my reasoning to use 0W-30 year around? TIA
--'rocco
I drive kind of hard, too. So I'll be happy with a little extra protection under extreme conditions (i.e., my right foot).
But hey Mike, can you take a look at the labels on those bottles you bought and post the temperature range it states? I can't remember exactly what it said but I think it was -65° F. to 400° F. Can you confirm this for me? TIA
--'rocco
I'm definitely going with 0W-30 Mobil 1 for at least the forseeable future.
zach
About the armrest, yes it happened to me twice. I have it at the 2nd notch and without even applying full pressure on it, it can drop a notch or 2. I've also heard similar comments on AudiWorld so I guess it's *normal*. Sigh.
About the oil, yeah I agree with what Rocco had found out.....the car comes with 0W30 and it gotta be synthetic. I also plan to keep the engine running 0W30 all year round and that's why I was so pissed when I found out that they put in the dino Castro 10W30 or 5W30 instead of the Mobil1 0W30 I brought. Right now she's at 9400 miles and I guess it's about time to call in for the 10k service.....my dealer needs about 3 weeks to schedule an appointment if I need an Audi loaner.
Karen, thanks for the comment about the Quattro Challenge. I meant to tell y'all what we did in each event but I guess those pictures with the guys' comments said it all. The Lakes Area Quattro Club (Milwaukee, WI and Chicago) will host a Big Brother/Big Sister Charity fall drive through Wisconsin and we'll start from an Audi dealership in Milwaukee. They will also have a 02' A4 there so I'd assume it will have a sticker on it. Will let you guys know what the MSRP is if there is a sticker.
Speaking of which, we got some detailing products for free at the Quattro Challenge and one of them is the wheel cleaner. I highly recommend it after using it. It's easy, just spray it on and wait 15 sec and hose it off. It gets rid of the brake dust like nothing else. It even takes off brake dust off the balancing weight on the outside of the rims without rubbing or touching it.
Billy
Billy-- Have you seen the write-up and pics posted on the AoA site of your Quattro Challenge? http://www.audiusa.com/news/events_qc_chicago_main.htm
jarb1-- sorry, I didn't mean to ignore you. Welcome to the forum! Good to hear that you had a nice trip. Out of curiosity, what kind of gas milage did you get with the 2.8? ...if you could translate that into our "gallons" (mpg) measurement; or a rough guess of mpg if you can. And I haven't had the armrest problem yet. I'll have to take a look at it because I too think I keep it on the lowest setting.
--'rocco
http://www.clairparts.com/shop/boutique.cfm?do=buy&&pid=482
The AoA web-site describes it as follows: "Alloy Wheel Cleaner 18 oz. Safe for all wheel surfaces, simply spray on/hose off. Recommended for all factory wheels."
AoA "Collections" prices it at $5.00 and at ClairParts it's $5.95. I haven't figured out the shipping difference yet nor have I checked a local dealership to see what they charge. I'll have to do some more reseach on this. --or I could find my way to the next Quattro Challenge and get it for free! ...that sounds like a much better idea. :-b
--'rocco
The reason I ask is because I just picked up my car. They say they used my oil, but I checked it and it's colored slightly brown (which could just be the residue from the old, dirty oil), but also, they did not leave me with a partial quart of the Mobil 1 I supplied. There should have been 1/3 of a quart left.
I hate to say it, but I'm wondering if one of two things happened: 1. They overfilled my engine with the oil I provided, or just threw away the partial quart (although I don't know why they'd do that), or 2. One of the techs pocketed my oil and put in dino.
How can I tell I've got Mobil 1 in there?
(I know I sould anal, but my car also came back with some extra mileage on it and all I sent it in for was the 5k service - it shouldn't have had any extra miles on it).
Ahh there it is on the webpage. I thought they wouldn't put the Chicago event there since it's mostly identical to the one in Toronto.
Just scheduled my 10k service for 2nd week of October. See if they can solve that fuel filler door lock sound.....it sounds like the vacuum line that controls that lock doesn't work right. It can still manage to unlock that door but the hissing sound is not right.
Billy
Well honestly I don't know how we can make sure they put the right oil in unless you send a sample of the oil in the engine to the lab for analysis. Some others can shed a light on this topic?
You should be able to tell whether they overfill or not by the dipstick. I didn't tell them to give me the partial quart but they did put it into a plastic bag and seal it off nicely and gave it back to me. Maybe we should tell them to give us the remaining quart next time.
How much is the extra mileage? They also rotate tires at the 5k service so MAYBE the tech was just roadtesting your car and make sure he/she put the tires on alright. By the way, did they rotate the tires on your vehicle?
Learn something new everyday, I guess, and that applies to all of us.
Billy
I will check the level on my way home. They brought up the car with the engine running, so I couldn't check it on the spot.
Like I said, I know I'm being anal, but people who don't respect other people's stuff really irritate me.
How you can tell if the oil has actually been changed is a tough question without actually going out and getting an oil analysis done immediately. Anybody have any input on this???
--'rocco
I didn't open the bottle of syn up (should have, but didn't), but from the outside, the synthetic looked almost transparent, not the light brown color of other oil. My eyes could have been deceiving me, though. Should have opened it. This is the first time I've ever used synthetic oil.
I will warn them next time about joyriding my car. It won't happen again. I thought that with a dealer that sells S4's and A6 2.7T's and A6 4.2's and S8's that nobody would bother with my little A4 1.8T. I guess I was wrong.
I know the Mobil1 that I was using a few years ago was brown in tint and not the color of water but that was the 10W-30 weight; I haven't actually seen the new 0W-30.
The maintenance manual does recommend or I guess I sould say "dictate" a tire rotation at the 5k/6 mos. service interval, however, I can't see where this would have any effect on any warranty issue that may crop up even if it wasn't done ...IMO, tire rotation would only pertain to tire wear issues I would think. In fact, I think that I'm going to ask that my tires not be rotated because of my low mileage.
--'rocco
Looks like I'm going back. What were the issues with overfilled oil? I know it was doing something, but I don't know what (And I'm too lazy to scroll back and find it).
Rocco? Billy?
How did you come to the conclusion that it was overfilled? ...because they didn't return the 1/3 quart? I wonder if 1/3 quart will do any severe damage? The logical way of doing it would be to put 3 quarts in then start the engine, shut it off and then measure it ...then add more accordingly --it's always better to underfill than overfill; underfilling will not cause any damage and you then have the opportunity to add more. Where on the dipstick does the oil measure? One of the suggestions that I remember reading over on AudiWorld is to take a pump from a liquid soap dispenser and attach some plastic or rubber tubing to the end and pump some of the excess oil out. Now I don't know if you'd pump it out through the fill hole or the dipstick tube ...I'd suspect that the dipstick tube would make the most sense. I'd think that's all the dealership will do when you take it back in to complain ...they'll just "suck" some of the oil out and send you on your way.
I'm actually thinking of either doing my first oil change myself or taking a Bosch oil filter and my own Mobil 1 to my own mechanic and have him do it. Another reason is that I have to make an appointment so far in advance at the local dealerships and the dealership that I bought the car at is almost 100 miles away.
Anyway, keep us posted, Mike.
--'rocco
They were selling real cheap because Rod East has sold the Audi dealership to Cavender who will use there Olds facility off 410/Bandera. Was concerned about maint coverage and if the there would be new mechanics, free loaners, etc....no one could answer so got cold feet. Should be in place in 2 weeks so will check them out. As the only Audi dealer around want to make sure they're set up properly, etc...
and in the mean time, some jerk (hit and run) backed into the left rear of my Volvo so will have to get that fixed before I can sell!...now I'm kicking myself in the [non-permissible content removed].... (-....
sorry to hear about your oil change...hope they sort it out OK....
I'm gonna let the service manager hear it this afternoon, though.
You wouldn't happen to have the number of the overfilling TSB, would you? I'd like to be able to show my service guy the actual TSB so he can't try and bluff his way out.
Here is an old thread that I ran into at AudiWorld that I'm sure you can relate to:
http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/131471.phtml
...hope that link works.
--'rocco
As for the overfilling, just go back to the dealership and pull the dipstick and told them they screwed up. One question though, when you check the dipstick, did you run the car for a while? And you checked it on level ground? Cuz once I checked it and whether or not you park the car on level ground makes a big difference. I'm sure you did, just making sure. Speaking of which I gotta check my oil which I didn't do in the past 2k miles.....oops. Should not burn as much oil as the first 5k miles tho.
Billy