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Comments
Steve-- Did you have it jumped? Could that have been what might have "blown" the radio?
--'rocco
Most prox cards require the card be placed right up against the sensor...so even if you could program it to your Homelink, I don't see how this would work.
The two red lights is what scirocco said..ambient light and it sure is cool.
the rattle does go away....just not after a few seconds....maybe a minute or two?
I'll see if i can consistently reproduce it and then take it into the dealer.
Oh yeah the battery for the 2001's is also under the hood and sit way back under the windshield. Need to take off a cover to get to it, just like the 2002's. BMW's (at least the 3 series) and the Volvo V70 got the battery in the trunk.....my guess is it's there to balance the weight and for safety reasons.
Billy
The "computer" module may lose its memory (or words to that effect). The costs to you of being a good Samaritan are too high -- that is what the Audi Roadside assistance is for.
If you do give or get a jump, the car may or may not perform as it did before and you may have to have the EPROM (?) replaced or at least reprogrammed -- jumping or being jumped may, therefore, cause drivability problems" (which I assumes is so broad and general that it covers just about every "drivability" condition -- i.e., the car may run poorly, get terrible fuel milage, pollute more, heck it may even backfire and stall at every intersection, for all I know.)
In any case, it put the fear in me and I will help people with my AAA Gold Card, my cellular telephone, etc, rather than give them a jump. BTW I am an Audi Advantage member and a Triple A member, and have only used the Audi Advantage once, when my wife's TT hit a pot hole which deflated the tire, bent the wheel and misaligned the wheels -- Audi dispatched a flatbed truck, "towed" the car to the dealer (even tho it was 10:00PM and pouring down sleet), who proceded to fix all that was wrong (I had to make a claim for the wheel on my insurance, though), clean the car and while we had to wait, gave us an A4 loaner.
-Barry
--'rocco
3DO 698 137 SBV
dealer said that 3DO is a porsche part number prefix. $50 bucks.
Anyone have any ideas? I want to get some NOW.
Don't want to wait to order.
But I did wanna take a minute to comment on the jumped-battery issue. I'm taking my 1.8T in for its 5000-mile service next week and will ask my service mgr if it's OK to jump-start the battery (or to use it to jump-start somebody else). Will be interesting to see whether he agrees with Mark's service mgr. I'll let you know.
My overall impression of the car at the 5000-mile mark: I'd give it a 9 or 9.5 on a 10-point scale. Biggest disappointment: anemic low beams on the stock headlights. Also, I want to set the record straight about an earlier complaint: I had complained about a rattle in the passenger door. As it turns out, that was my fault, not Audi's; I had left a minidisc case in the door pocket and didn't realize right away that that was causing the rattle. (Duh....) Sorry to have maligned the A4 reputation!
*lol* ...yeah, that's funny about your door rattle. I had a similar situation ...I was irritated that I had what I thought was a rattle coming from the center console. As it turned out, it was coming from my garage door opener which I keep in front of the shifter (albeit, on a padded backing)! I still have a rattle coming from the rear left side door panel (which I though I had solved) though
Thanx for posting, Karen!
--'rocco
Now, I am still very much interested in following the discussion regarding "jumper cables and Audi's don't mix."
--smr
AJ
99 1/2 A6Q
BTW, glad to hear that you're enjoying the Subie more. (You mentioned a while back that you were feeling more in sync with the Forester, or that the Forester was feeling more in sync with the road.) You'll have to keep us posted as we get into winter....
- AWD
- Xenons
- head curtains
- decent room (able to fit 2 adults under 6' and 2 baby seats reasonably)
- a price tag around $30-$32K
The only other car that seems to match this fit would be a 325ix somewhat stripped. Am I missing other cars? Seems like the A4 is the best bang for the buck.
JOFO
Billy-- Yep, the Outbacks do have a nice solid ride but they won't match the handling of an A4 ...nor do they have the fit and finish.
Karen-- hehehehehee, so you think our owner's manual is that poorly written??? Sure, it's not the best but I remember back when the first Japanese cars were starting to be sold in the U.S. ...and to read their owner's manual was absolutely hilarious! My first new car purchase was a '72 Mazda 626 and I remember sitting with my brother and reading the manual ...the translation to English was so atrocious that we were rolling around on the floor laughing! And the one for my '74 Corolla wasn't much better. But anyway, yeah! ...the Forester is really starting to feel good. The clutch is starting to smooth out nicely, the engine is really loosening up now and it seems to have more "flingability" than the A4. The boxer "growl" is starting to grow on me and I find my self driving it more and more like a sports car. I'm almost glad I made the purchase. If I didn't have to have that bag over my head as I drive it, I'd probably feel like a very proud owner at this point!
Steve-- Glad to hear the good news! And yes, I agree, I'm also waiting to hear some more from additional Audi dealer's technicians on the "jumper cables and Audis don't mix" issue. But as I said, I'm a little more at ease after having read the manual ...and from hearing Allen's comments too.
James-- If the dealer has them for 50 bucks, why don't you just go over there and buy them? That sounds like a great price for a genuine part; doesn't it? Or did you mean that the dealer will order them for you for $50? I don't think you'd be able to find them anywhere else for that price locally. Did you check with UVA? The only other suggestion I could make is to check with a VW dealer. Aren't their threads the same as the Audi's?
--'rocco
It would appear that jumping Car B from Car A is OK if Car A is not running and has roughly the same volt/amp output as Car B "expects." So, from this point of view jumping or being jumped is unlikely to cause electrical or computer related problems.
Apparently some roadside assistance (AAA perhaps?) use more powerful means to provide the jump for Car B. If higher volts or amps are supplied to Car B than it is designed to accept, this is where the problem lies.
In an effort to provide simple, blanket information, I was apparently given information that from a certain perspective is true, but -- like most generalizations -- is not 100% accurate.
My impression is that we should have our Audi's jumped from non-running cars, "just in case."
But, with AAA and the Audi advantage, I will still probably call for assistance than ask for a jump. I can't recall EVER having any Audi I have owned NOT start due to a battery problem, but then again, I rarely keep them beyond 50,000 miles (one time, only, in fact).
Thanks for the clarification, all.
Thanks!
About longevity, I'm sure the Audi engineers already thought of the consequences of a high revving engine. I've also brought my car to Audi's Quattro Challenge and a few spirited "drives" organized by the local Quattro club and the engine is performing better than ever. 12,500 miles in a little more than 9 months with mixed highway-local driving and no problems.....Rocco, have you passed the 5k mark yet? :>
Billy
Billy-- 5,000???? ...try 2,000! *lol* (man, I've got to drive more!!! ...how many times have I said that?)
--'rocco
I had looked at the Jaguar X-Type 3.0, Toyota Highlander Limited, Lexus RX300, BMW 325XI, and the Audi A4 3.0 Quattro. The Highlander is derived from the RX300, and (IMHO) was better in drivability, but this would only replace a SUV with another SUV (no spirited driving allowed :-().
The Jaguar had all of the features you can expect, but the interior fit and finish threw this off of the list (too many Ford identifiable parts - and parts broken in all X-Types I saw!). The Jag drove well, but don't know on it's reliability, especially with the AWD system. Too many unknowns. Probably worth looking at in a few years.
The BMW definitely stands up as a driver's car. There is something in the engineering of the car that links the road to the car and to the driver. This is without all of the marketing and social hype of the BMW name. I probably would have gotten one until I test drove the A4 3.0.
With the A4 3.0, I was able to get more options in a car for about the price of the BMW 325XI. The connection to the road is still there, but only slightly subdued with the added luxury items I got.
If you still need the cargo space to haul stuff like you did in the 4Runner, then look at the A4 Avant that's coming out real soon. Otherwise, the A4 sedan is really great. The best way to decide is to try them all yourself. Make no commitments with any dealer, and go have fun driving the best there is :-)
'Rocco with 5k on his car yet? I think you are being overly optimistic.
Brian
Billy
Got to love those Accords! I had 2 myself and put 170k and 95k on them and can only hope the A4 lasts as long... The one with 170k, tranny was blown and the one with 95k we traded in because it had more value on it than our Cavalier. I think we can keep our cars we just need 'Rocco's driving habits. Any tips on how you keep your mileage down? I have that feeling we'll be over when our lease is done and am not looking forward to it.
Brian
I've never been one to favor leasing ...never felt it made much sense, from a financial perspective, for the average joe. I've always paid cash for my cars with the intention of driving them until the wheels fell off. But as can be expected, I usually start itching for something new after about 5-7 years. I've always refused to make payments on a depreciating asset but as I grow older, I'm thinking that leasing may make more sense. In fact, I may seriously consider it on my next new car selection. I mean, so what if it doesn't make financial sense ...I think I'll just treat myself to a new car every 3 years or so. --can we say "new S4 in 2003?"
And yeah, I know so many friends and relatives that are former Accord owners who have moved on to other cars. Why is that? Does that mean the people at Honda who make decisions aren't keeping up with what people want? You'd think one of their main goals would be to sustain owner loyalty and at least keep them in the Honda family. But that doesn't appear to be happening from what I can see. My Aunt and Uncle, just yesterday, bought a Toyota Avalon after having two Accords previously ...did they even consider, say, a TL?, probably not. I guess that's my point, you'd think they's want to be making cars that Accord owners want to consider moving up to. Not only have Accord sales dropped in relation to their competion in recent years but so has their rating in Consumer Reports. I noticed in the last issue, the Accord is still in third place behind the number one Passat and the brand new Camry. Of course, isn't the brand new Accord due out next year? ...if so, maybe things will change for the better.
Okay, so anyway, let's compare mileage next year at this time and maybe by then I'll have caught up with you guys ...I've got several trips planned that I hope to take but if my situation doesn't change I'll probably only have 3,000 miles on it at this time next year! *lol* :-P
--'rocco
Billy
I don't know why Honda has that problem with owners not wanting to stay within the Honda family of cars. I have some hunches and I tend to agree with Billy that their cars just don't stir up any excitement in people as much anymore. I also think that a lack of a manual on the Accord V6 has hurt them as well as very few manuals on the Acura lineup. The Acura lineup while nice gives one the impression of dressed up Accords with different sheetmetal on top. Lots to look at and plenty of sizzle but where is the steak? So, that was why I made the change to Audi.
BTW I have vendor training in Vernon Hills, Illinois all week and on the way home checked the tach and it read 3200 rpm at 70 mph with the cruise control set so am not sure why I am a little higher on the revs at 70 but it is nice to be there for the passing ability. I agree that 3000 is not that high up in the rev range when you consider that the Honda S2000 makes its peak hp at 8000rpm or something? I would like to think that the mechanicals on our engines will be able to handle it. Later all.
Brian
Billy
Nice to know I do not have a strange car for being at 3200rpm @ 70mph!
Yes, brake pads wear as well as rotors and sometimes even calipers require rebuild or replacement. The normal lines should be bled to remove any air in the system. The normal fluid should be changed every couple years or x number of miles. I know the ABS fluid is also something that should be changed because it is a higher temp fluid than regular fluid and it does break down over time. I remember Honda suggested both be done at a specific interval but can't remember what it was now.
I agree with markcincy as to why this isn't a no charge repair. You are still under warranty, no?
Audibon
Also, it might not be covered under warranty because of the clause in the warranty stating that brake pads are not covered "if pads are worn below specifications" ...whatever that means.
Also, I didn't realize that wear and tear items such as wiper blades and light bulbs, etc. are only covered for 1 year/12,000 miles. ...hmmmmmm
--'rocco
I've been lurking around here for a bit. I don't own an Audi, actually I purchased a VW Passat wagon earlier this year. While I've been very happy with it, I hope to be able purchase an Audi in a few years. I love the new A4 and would like to be able to afford a S4 Avant when they are produced in the new body style in a couple of years.
"...The New Vehicle Warranty period is 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first...
This warranty covers any repair to correct a manufacturer's defect in material or workmanship except wheel alignment, tire balance, and the repair or replacement of tires. The repair or relacement of wear and tear items, such as manual transmission clutch friction material, brake pads worn below specifictions, light bulbs (excluding Halogen headlights, instrument panel bulbs and Xenon headlights), seat covers, carpeting and replacement of rubber wiper blade inserts, replaced for wear and tear, are covered up to one year or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first."
So evidently our Xenons are covered under the warranty for they are not considered a wear and tear item ...I'm interpreting it that way, anyway, but I don't know. My salesman told me that they were covered so I'm hoping so.
HOLD ON A SECOND...
I'm trying to read my warranty booklet as I'm typing this...
I'm confused! There's something called "Audi Warranty Coverage" and something else called "Audi Advantage Coverage" and both have the time coverage of 4 years/50,000 miles, whichever occurs first. So I'll ask you (or anybody reading this that has the 2001 warranty book handy ...or I'd assume that the 2002 book will be printed similarly) to go the chart on page 10 and tell me how you interpret if Xenons are covered. It says "no" under the Audi Advantage coverage but says "yes" under the Audi Warranty coverage. hmmmm... I'd have to say they'd be covered no matter what. But look at brake pads: "yes" under Audi Advantage and "no" under Audi Warranty.
I'd say the whole thing is a little ambiguous and confusing. So I guess I was wrong in my previous post ...even though light bulbs, brake pads, wiper blades or other wear and tear items aren't covered under the warranty, they are covered under the Audi Advantage. I know that the Volkswagen warranty states that wear and tear items and all adjustments are excluded after one year or 12,000 miles whichever occurs first but I don't see that exact verbiage in the Audi warranty. I just hope that we all have reputable Audi dealers who will honor a legitimate repair covered under the 4 year/50K coverage no matter what or how AoA chooses to classify it!
Scott-- Thanx for stopping by! Any input you may have on warranty interpretation, or anything for that matter, don't hesitate to chime in.
--'rocco
But just as an example, I remember in the sales brochure they mentioned that under the 4yr/50k warranty period, you can go in even for wiper blades and they're free. I already did so at around 9k and yeah, they're free :> They even washed the car for me so I don't mind going back there for blades :>
Billy
However, I have had both tire/wheel balancing and alignment covered -- and since the tires were being balanced anyway, they rotated them without charge. Of course more frequent oil changes than "suggested" (i.e., paid for) are not free either.
And, as noted above, the car is always washed and sometimes vacuumed virtually every time I visit the dealership, even if it is on a Saturday when I am "visiting" the dealership for donughts and coffee or (in the spring and summer) hamburgers and hot dogs. Although, when I get a "free car wash" on a Saturday, I usually tip the washer person $5 or $10.
Took my 2001.5 1.8T in for its 5000-mile servicing this morning and inadvertently stirred up a hornet's nest on two fronts:
First, when I bought the car in July, the salesperson told me to ask the service dept to make sure the alignment was OK every time the tires were rotated. So when I asked for that this morning, it was like I'd asked for the guy's first-born child. ("Well, that's really time-consuming! That's really expensive!") When I said I was simply doing what the salesperson there had advised, there was another uproar about why she had said that. So now I've gotten her on their s-list too, apparently.
Then I asked what I thought would be an innocuous question: "What kind of oil do you use?" And the service dept guy said 10W-40. So then I questioned whether that was suitable for a 4-cylinder turbocharged engine and showed him in the owner's manual where it recommends either 0W-30 or, if that's not available, 5W-30 or 5W-40. He said they didn't have any of those in stock but that he'd get some for this oil change. But he seemed kinda ticked off, and I felt like I'd done something wrong. Would 10W-30 be OK, or are they just trying to do whatever is cheapest since they're footing the bill for the oil change? Also, can you tell by the viscosity rating of an oil whether it's synthetic or dyno? I told him that everything I've read indicates that synthetics keep these engines running at a lower temperature than regular oil does. He said 10W-30 is a fine all-purpose oil that would be a good year-round oil for this car in this climate (which is usually moderate but can be very variable). Is he B.S.-ing me? I'll bring my own oil next time, but can somebody tell me where to find 0W-30 (or 5W-30 or 5W-40)?
A couple of other points:
About jump-starting an A4 or using your A4 to jump-start somebody else: Mark, this guy agrees with what your service-dept manager told you. He says it can cook your computer, which can cost anywhere from $300 to $3,000 to repair or replace. Again, I don't know whether he knows what he's talking about, but I thought I'd pass along the feedback.
About warranties: Somewhere I've read that even wiper blades are covered under the 4-yr/50,000-mi warranty. I'll try to find out where that was and report back. And I'll take a look at the warranty info in the owner's manual. Maybe I can stir up another hornet's nest.
Alignments: page 11 of the warranty booklet--
"no" under the warranty; "yes" under the Audi Advantage Coverage "yes -- if no evidence of accident/damage or abuse/hitting potholes or curbs"
Oil: The manual states that the car comes from the factory with 0W-30. As Billy and I discussed previously, 0W-30 is only made in synthetic. Therefore, we have to conclude that the factory fill is synthetic. I find most dealers will deny this, however, and recommend dino oil. Yes, probably for the reason you mentioned; because it costs less and obviously Audi won't admit that the factory fill is synthetic. I'm assuming that AoA must give the dealers a bulk oil allowance so, as you said, they probably want to use the cheapest oil they can in order to maybe come under, dollar wise, what Audi gives them as an allowance so as to make a profit. In my area, both Kmart and Target sell both Mobil 1 0W-30 and 5W-30 for about $4-5/qt. As you recall, most of us have brought our own in when having the dealer perform the free maintenance services. Personally, I really believe in 0W-30, especially after reading the Mobil 1 web page on that grade. It sounds like excellent year around protection for our engine.
--'rocco
p.s. I overheard a co-worker yesterday who claimed he retrofitted his Passat with hiperwhite headlight bulbs (I think that's what he said) and reports that visibility is much better at night. His Passat has the same projectors that you have, I believe. I'll try to find out more and let you know.
But doesn't 0W-40 sound even better?: http://www.mobil1.com/products/trisynth/oil_0w40.jsp
The problem is that 0W-40 can't be readily purchased anywhere. From what I've heard, only select Porsche dealers can get ahold of it at the present time. I asked the service advisor at my dealership, which is also a Porsche dealer and he hadn't ever heard of it.
--'rocco
Unless desperate, don't jump or be jumped would appear to be the current service manager's suggestions. I will gladly comply -- I had a fried computer in a car once -- even after it was supposedly fixed, the car was "never the same" (it was a Chrysler product, BTW).
It is like the TV's on the showroom floor at TV'sR-Us -- they are turned up in brightness and blueness so high that they look "artificial" once you get them home.
The Audi factory non-Xenon lights, therefore, are probably better from a light output standpoint than the blue tinted bulbs. Of course, just ordering the Xenon option would seem to be a better approach -- and an option that will improve your night vision and therefore your safety.
Now, spending money on after-market dingle-balls and fuzzy dice -- there's a good use of funds!
Rocco, yeah, 0W-40 sounds great. Interesting that Mobil mentions Audi specifically as one of the makes this oil is designed for. Also interesting that the website plans to offer a feature called "Which Oil for My Car?" Next time I'll definitely take my own oil -- and I'll keep an eye on the temp gauges in the meantime. These guys said they used 5W-30 after I pressed the issue, but I don't know whether to believe them.
Also, Rocco, I agree with your interpretation of the warranty booklet. Sounds like the regular Audi warranty covers all Audis; the Audi Advantage warranty is an additional warranty that applies to vehicles distributed by Audi of America. (I'm basing this on pages 9-11 in the warranty booklet.) In a nutshell, then, if you own an AoA vehicle that's still covered by the 4-year/50k-mile warranty, you should be entitled to free replacement of many items that need to be replaced because of normal wear and tear. This would include wiper blades, brake pads, and various lightbulbs. This is also the impression that Audi conveys in their big sales brochure for the 2001 A4 and S4. On page 36 it says: "The Audi Advantage in brief: You drive the car. We take care of it. For four years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first, every bit of scheduled maintenance is on us. An oil change, a tune-up, even wiper blades. Our goal goes beyond keeping your costs down; it's about keeping hassles to a minimum as well."
One last point: I've complained here about my stock headlights. Today the dealership said they were aimed too low and have now been adjusted. Anyway, now maybe I'll actually be able to see where I'm driving at night!
Sorry for the long post. Thanks again for all the feedback!
Yeah, 0W-40 is theoretically better than 0W-30 but I haven't even seen it being sold in US. Yup I got my 0W-30 at Target.
I had those "hyperwhite" light bulbs in my ex-Accord and yeah, except they look cool and blue, they did a TERRIBLE JOB when illuminating the road than stock lights bulbs. Like Mark said, there is a blue tint on the glass bulb. The lights look blue, but basically the blue is a filter so it cuts the intensity of the light beams. Don't use them.
02A4Curt, wow, the service guy actually said they use 5W-30 SYNTHETIC? My service advisor said they also use Castrol, but dino instead of synthetic. I had a little oil change "saga" at 5k when the service advisor "forgot" I mentioned (and he put it in writing) that I brought my own synthetic and he put in his dino oil. Of course I was mad when I found out that (and he put "DONE" next to the item "Put customer oil in") he put dino oil in, he said his dino oil is as good as synthetic. Yeah right. I made them take it out and put my oil in.
Billy
The dipstick was definitely below the normal range. So the only thing we have is 10W-30. The manual says fine (as I read it), so glug glug glug in it goes. First half a quart, still not there. Then the rest. Now it reads at the upper end of the normal range. Not overfilled mind you, but 3/4 of the quart would have been perfect.
So all this break in oil talk has me wondering what king of a mixture is sloshing around in there. The dealer said it's fine see you at 5k, (it's currently at 3k). They also only use Dino. "Bring your own if you want something else". It was running fine. It's still running fine. Anyone else had to top up?
You can bet I'll be watching my oil level and that temp guage closely.
And my low beams are also aimed dangerously low. I don't think they're dim. They cut off so sharply on the upper portion of the beam, my brother thought it was window tinting. I really should take the car in for them, if I ever get time away from work.
-Barry