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Comments
I saw, yesterday, a 2003 A6 2.7T manual at my dealership -- with the big wheels and tires too!
Very nice.
The allroad is less money, based on the configurator, however and it has been from day one available in manual and with the 2.7T. It is based on the A6 avant and adds some other stuff -- to make it somewhat more SUV like.
But, even with the A6 Avant 2.7T, the allroad "seems" like more car for less money.
I ordered one (a 2003 allroad, that is) -- time will tell.
--'rocco
But any info anyone can provide will be appreciated. Specifically interested in residuals and money factors that AoA is offering.
I mis-spoke. I meant to say that I was surprised to hear Mark say that an allroad would be "less money" than an A6 Avant with the 2.7T and the 6-speed ...or is that what he said?
*whew* I'm really appearing like an idiot lately here on this forum. I can't seem to interpret anything Mark says.
--'rocco
This is what I thought I said in my earlier message. An Allroad will configure to have a lower MSRP than an A6 2.7T avant.
--'rocco
--'rocco
Regarding the suspension, and the chance of incurring expensive repairs after the 4 year warranty expires, you could always buy an extended warranty, something that is strongly recommended by most posters here anyway no matter which Audi model you intend to keep long-term. I'm personally more concerned about the turbo engine and transmission (TIP in my case), not that I expect to have problems with either, but just the fear that I might after the warranty expires. A total failure of either one would likely be more expensive to repair than the suspension, IMO. If in two years I decide to keep mine past the warranty, I will buy one for the allroad although I decided against doing so with the A4.
dan-- I've seen the dealers here locally advertise the 1.9% financing on new and Audi Assured pre-owned cars too. I have the phone number that they gave me for the actual (AoA) Audi Financial Services office where they'll explain the plans which they can tailor to your particular needs. I have't called yet for I don't know if I'll use them or not. The number is 1-888-237-2834. I'm sure the finance manager at your local dealership can do the same too.
Joel-- Okay, I think I'm beginning to see why an allroad could be less expensive than an Avant but if comparably equipped, I still find it interesting that an allroad could be cheaper with its sophisticated suspension. No, I also have no reason to doubt what Mark is saying. I only was wondering WHY this could be but, as you pointed out, with the option packages configured the way they are, I guess it could be so. It's interesting that the upcoming 2.7T A6 Avant could be priced more than an allroad with similar content ...it makes me also think that the allroad is quite a bargain.
And yes, I tend to agree with you about the cost of repairing the suspension as compared to other possible repairs which could be needed. Although repairing an air suspension would undoubtedly be expensive, I cringe at the thought of having to repair or replace one of those turbos.
Thanks again for your excellent comments.
--'rocco
I ran the configurator for 2002 A6 2.7T SEDAN and a 2002 allroad -- the sedan costs more. Now, since the avant costs more than the sedan, and based on the fact that I have actually seen the window sticker on a 2003 allroad, I extrapolated that a 2003 allroad 2.7T is less money (MSRP) when similarly equipped than a 2003 A6 2.7T avant.
As far as content goes, at this point, the content reduction in the allroad A6 2.7T is as follows:
No heated steering wheel and no passenger side memory for the passenger power seats.
The 2003 A6 2.7T also loses the memory on the passenger seat, and I do not know if the 2003 A6 2.7T has a heated steering wheel if it has the heated seat option.
I do know that the S6 Avant prices the REAR heated seats separately from the front, but that you can't get the rear seats heated and the fronts not heated. There is an S6 avant at my dealer with front and rear heated seats and the rears are a sep line item on the window sticker.
So, for the money based on window stickers, on line configurators and my personal research and labor -- a 2003 allroad is "more car" for the money -- the question is do you want and/or need what the allroad brings to the table -- the allroad is a quasi SUV the avant is not.
They are both great choices -- as is the A4 avant and it makes me wonder if there would be a market for an A4 based allroad.
I have "extensively" test driven three allroads (one with the stick shift) -- I have a stick allroad "coming in" probably in late November or December -- with every option except the solar sun roof (6spd manual). I am led to believe it will MSRP at a number south of $50K -- the window sticker of the 2003 allroad that I saw did not have navigation and On*star and the rear airbags -- so I added up the "probable" costs for every possible "do dad" that I could get from the factory based on the 2003 window sticker and came up with $49,990. I think it will be, before any discount, actually a bit lower than this -- and at this point I have no clue what kind of discount I should expect.
Hopefully this clarifies some of the remarks I made in prior posts.
And remember, there is nothing on this board that should make any of us have any serious "negative" emotions or thoughts -- even when we are peeved at a story about repair costs or serious failures, my thoughts are generally not anger, rage or anything much more than either disappointment or frustration.
I noticed some earlier posts about '02 pricing as the '03 start to arrive. I'm not sure about other places, but in central Ohio they are selling all '02 A4's right around invoice price. I just took home a loaded 2002 3.0 Quattro for just under invoice. Another dealer was offering me $500 over invoice, but I didn't see if he would go down further, as he didn't have the type I was looking for. Not many 3.0's left - mostly 1.8's. The kicker was that my trade-in ('98 Accord EXV6 coupe) was on the upper end of Edmunds' estimator. Plus, I finally got to take advantage of some of these low APR's. Win-win-win!
Is all 2002 A4 on sale now in B.C?
My dealership is just a few miles away from B.C. (in Washington) and they claim they do not have any 2003s on their lot yet although they do have a list of incoming 2003s which are due to arrive momentarily. So yes, I believe any dealership will be offering good prices on remaining 2002s.
Dave-- ooops, sorry, that was my fault! :P I probably should have taken that disucssion to another forum. But you got an '02 for right around invoice? ...that's great, congratulations!
Mark-- Thanks.
--'rocco
As far as the reliability of the 1.8T A4 compared to the G20, I'm sure the consensus will be that the G20 will be much more reliable over the long term. Wasn't it Consumer Reports that said the G20 is/was one of the most reliable or trouble free cars ever made?
There used to be a thread here on Town Hall that compared the G20 with the B5 A4. From my recollection, most comments tended toward the A4 having much more refinement and power, better styling, better safety features, better resale value (or residual) and a much more satisfying driving experience. In the G20's corner was better gas mileage, better dealer experience --Infiniti dealers are noted for their good customer service-- and exceptional reliability.
You'll see right away that the A4 will be much more fun to drive than a G20 ...even with an Avant. That was my main goal in choosing a car. You'll also be impressed with the quattro in the A4 and how it makes the car seem so glued to the road and all the confidence it inspires (all A4 Avants will come with quattro).
The A4 is not going to be unreliable, it just won't be as reliable as the G20. Remember --as has been discussed on this forum many times before-- most of us with the 1.8T just love the engine. Not only is it highly tunable, but it has proved itself reliable through the years that it has been used. It's been used for quite awhile now across the Audi/VW product line and has made the Ward's Top Ten Engines list numerous times during the past few years. Parts and service knowledge should be plentiful in the future because of its widespread use.
I bought a new Subaru Forester exactly a year ago and am already contemplating getting rid of it. Although it's been extremely reliable so far and will probably be for years to come, it is just not an Audi! Everytime I switch back to it from driving my A4, I vow to trade it in for another Audi ...I just plain miss the A4's refinement and the smile it puts on my face while shifting gears and putting it through twisties. This feeling I've never personally experienced while owning or test-driving a Japanese car. I love the reliability of Japanese cars but I love more the feeling I have when driving an Audi ...the interaction and the feeling of oneness I have with the car and the road.
...hope that didn't sound too mushy! :P I'm not trying to necessarily sell you on choosing the Avant but what other choices were you considering? ...what's second and third on your list?
--'rocco
Crashton
Apparently, and I have no personal experience -- repeatable personal experience -- this currently does not exist. Those who want "legendary" reliability are duly cautioned and sworn to know that the Japanese have the market cornered on reliability and that no other nation can (or will) match the legend. Very few of my friends have American cars, most either have European (German mainly) or Japanese (Toyota and Honda and their premium lables). All of my friends cars have problems and issues. I cannot scientifically or even casually proclaim that the Japanese are the reliability champions -- I assume they are because "you all" (we all) say it is so.
I can however, proclaim that those with the Japanese cars -- universally -- only discuss their cars in the least passionate fashion. It is as if we are discussing "spin cycles" and "fabric softener dispensers" or "pre washing the dishes before placing them in the dishwasher."
Those with the German (and other European cars) generally talk about handling, performance, the sweet sound of the engine as they wind it up through the (often manual transmission) gears.
No one I know has a Japanese car with a stick shift.
All the interiors are beige on beige on beige and often "plasticky."
The designs even seem derivative on my friends Japanese cars -- but boy do "we" comment about their legendary reliability don't we.
If the above is even anectdotally accurate -- it seems that we are possibly faced with a choice, driving a "performance" oriented car or driving a highly reliable appliance.
I'll take the performance car any day.
I do not even understand anymore why (beyond the obvious) there is even a comparison going on. If you want reliability and believe all of the legends pertaining to Japanese reliability (which I admit I lend at least SOME credence to) then forget the European car manufacturers.
Conversely, if you want to enjoy driving and feel the exhilaration that is part and parcel of driving an Audi (and a couple other European cars) -- buy one and don't look back.
Now, if we all want to band together as one giant collective communications machine (which in some measure we already are) and give Audi (or whoever) a piece of our mind -- well that's another thing. I can't imagine that Audi or BMW or Volvo or Saab or Jaguar or whoever wants to build a car that is unreliable -- and I am not aware of any engineering barriers to building great driving cars that have legendary reliability (within a price that mere mortals can afford).
If Audi's were to somehow become the reliability champs that "Infinity" or whoever is reputed to be and suddenly started driving like a Honda or Acura or Infinity G20 (just to name one, not to suggest or imply anything) I for one would raise hell -- "We Want Cars that are engaging to drive, fun, have performance, control, safety and "soul" -- you can keep your delicate cycle and wrinkle gard.
Just a thought (or two).
Also, CVT's (in either model) are arriving very late. The place where I got my '02 (Ohio) had a long line of '03 1.8T's and several 3.0's - but nothing with a CVT, and they said none are even showing up on their lists of expected cars.
I suspect this is just an artifact of the manufacturing process in the factories. Once they switch their lines over to produce CVT's, they probably don't want to make the changes back to manuals of TipTronics. Just a guess.
Dave
I think there is one place where the Germans could learn a bit form the Japanese - and that's in ergonomics. I don't mean comfortable seats (both are doing a good job at that) - I mean dashboards and controls. I can't figure out why VW/Audi keep stuffing controls (and ashtrays) down behind the shift knob at the bottom of the dash. It's the only thing that bugs me about A4. Also, this sounds funny, but there are too many buttons for stereo and climate controls.
As an 8-year Honda owner, I agree with everything else, though. The interior quality in Japanese cars leave much to be desired, and the ride/drive itself is not even comparable.
In 8 more years maybe I'll be able to comment on Japanese vs. German reliability...
If you don't buy an Audi, don't do it because you are afraid of the future reliability, do it because you like some other car better.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
While the Accord, Camry are high quality and almost boring realiable there are many more fun drivers cars many don't state or overlook like the sweet Maxima SE 6spd, Acura TL-S 6spd, upcoming all new 3 series, A4 competitor Acura TSX sedan, upcoming Mazda 6, Mazda RX-8, G35 6spd 280 h.p. hot looking coupe.. The new G35 is making a big mark in the sport sedan category and BMW is not gonna sit still I'll bet.. Lots of good, hardly boring stuff coming from Japan in the near future.
I don't agree on the assesment that Japanese have crap interiors, there are some like the Altima that show cost cutting but so did Mercedes which decontented many models. For cheap looking interiors and cheap switchgear and feel GM, Ford have this down pat.. One thing I don't like about German interiors is too many small buttons for controls look at the new E class and even 5 series. Lexus sets the standard for ergonomic user interface the best and most logical and ease of use in my book.
I do not disagree that there are many "contenders" in the queue and on the road already -- from several Japanese companies. I have found that there seem to be people who have strong opinions usually about German (and some other European makes) and Japanese (and possibly a Korean make) cars.
I have nothing personally against Japanese cars overall -- and I have driven several from Lexus, Mitsu, Accura and Infiniti -- they (especially the Mitsu that I rented recently from Avis) all seem like good cars. But, for me, they lack -- as Austin Powers says -- Mojo. They, IMHO, are -- to repeat -- "machines without soul." No matter what I think about the relative quality, reliability, style or virtually any other characteristic about a car -- the German cars engage the driver like no other (brand or brand from another country.)
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
At 18,000 miles, I would at the very least replace two tires,place them on the front and put the best two on the rear.
With the summer tires that come with Audis however, 20+K miles is about it -- even though there is probably some tread life beyond that. So, perhaps replacing all four at this time is not too far fetched.
I hate when this happens.
Here in Cincinnati, home of moderate winters (snow accumulation wise, that is) -- UHP A/S tires give up very little to summer tires -- generally speaking -- and they wear somewhat longer than Summer UHP or Max Perf tires -- and sometimes they cost significantly less.
If your friend lives where dedicated snow tires are not needed, UHP A/S tires may be just what the doctor ordered.
I really don't know if it's true but I's sure like to know if anyone has a definitive answer on this.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I've had the service people at my dealer look at it. They cleaned up the brakes and checked with Audi about the sound. Audi is claiming that it is a normal part of the brakes for light squealing noises. Therefore, it is reported on my receipt that they did not hear any noise and referred me to the official Audi statement on brake noise.
I've read through Audi's statement on brake noise. All of it pertains to noise generated while applying the brakes. In my situation, the noise goes away when I apply the brakes! They're trying to say that the new brakes in the 02 A4 can cause the pads to come in contact with the rotor when going over rough surfaces. They're saying that this contact is what makes the noise and there's nothing they can do about it.
I would like a second opinion on this. This isn't a very loud sound. With the windows closed, you can't hear it, but it can be annoying with the windows open. Are the brakes the culprit for this noise, or could it be something else?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I would always (well almost) put two new tires on when I had to replace one -- but I have always been told to put the new tires on the front end and the best of the rest on the rear end. Of course, putting an OK tire as the spare should not be much of an issue. So I assume that, by reading your post, your friend is going to have two new rear tires and used tires on the front?
Given that the front wheels on a quattro are responsible for the steering, majority of the braking and at least part of the motive force of the car -- putting "fresh tires" on the front end always seems "logical" -- and, according to my dealer, the safest choice -- and if the tires @ 18K miles are in good shape, by all means don't replace them. But if the tires need to be replaced in 5 k miles or less, it again seems like your friend will not feel sanguine about buying 4 new tires at that time.
I would, if possible and affordable, want to have my second and subsequent set of tires (beyond the factory rubber) always be 4 new tires at the same time (in an ideal world). In any case I would want matching tires (size, brand, rating, model, etc.)
Any reason you were given why the two new tires are NOT being placed on the front?
Also, you may be able to get an Audi advantage four wheel alignment and all four tire/wheels balanced -- if you ask nicely and "bat your baby blue eyes" -- or whatever -- at the service manager.
My friend is semi-knowlegable about cars (& tires) and he said to the guy at the tires store (whom he has a longstanding relationship with) that if I'm going to need new tires in the next 5K, then just give me 4 of them. The guy said the tires have got definitely more mileage than that to go on them. This shocked me because I figured 18K miles on Z rated tires (Continentals no less), with the wieght of the A4, Quattro (powering all 4 wheels), and my friend's somewhat aggressive driving style that the tires would need replacement.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Right?
And, your friend is going to buy 1 tire and move the new spare tire into use and make the other tire the spare -- even though it has 18K miles on it.
If I understand all this, which I think I do, I would like your friend to ask the tire guy -- again someone more tire savvy than I -- why not put the best old tires on the rear and the two new ones on the front axle for the reason I mentioned in my previous post.
Mine is a quest for information and knowlege that will hopefully translate into action should I face the same situation. And, with two Audi's with high performance low profile tires, the odds are that either my Audi or my wife's will have a tire issue sooner or later.
So, to the tire expert: why NOT always put the best on the steering, braking and driving wheels (i.e., the front end) and the second best on the rears which do less braking and driving, overall?
?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
The only red listed for 2002 on audiusa.com is Amulet Red which is for 3.0s only and appears to be darker and metallic.
Anybody have an idea what they call this and if it can be had in new 2003 3.0s?
The more I see of the "new" style A4 the more I like it and I've always been partial to red cars having owned three (and one that was red-orange).
Apparently the S4 is getting the 300 horse 4.2 so it'll be competitive with the M3 and perhaps there are concerns about warranty expenditures for the 2.7T.
I have mixed feelings, I don't know how much weight the 8 adds to the front of the S4 but I like the idea of one-upping the Beemers.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The Pros: It's a V8. It is going to be good for some serious amounts of horsepower. It's a V8.
The Cons: The current S4 is a bit "porky" as it is and adding 2 more cylinders doesn't help the cause too much. The heavier V8 will also upset the car's weight distribution, which will in turn affect handling. The V8 will suck down more gas than the current Bi-turbo V6.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
"The entire V8, with a gross weight of just 195 kilograms, is just as light as its predecessor in the previous S4, a twin-turbo 2.7-litre V6 engine. This results in major benefits for the weight balance and handling characteristics."
There are no cons with respect to porkyness that is.
Gotta have one!
Tires:
Just recently also had a blowout on my Quattro and was advised on the AudiWorld forum that the tires should be within 2-3% in diameter or the differentials would wear.
Andy-- From what I can gather, no new colors for the A4 will be introduced for 2003. However, the exception will be a new array of additional bright and lively colors with uniquely descriptive names exclusively for the Cabriolet.
So, what you saw that night was probably Amulet ...a non-metallic red which has been available on both the 1.8T and the 3.0 during the 2002 model year. It's one of the three colors which Audi doesn't charge extra for along with Polar White and Brilliant Black. I've noticed that it does appear lighter or darker at times depending on what the ambient conditions are at the time. That's my guess, anyway, for even the Cabriolet doesn't have a bright red color offered.
Here's an image from the Audi USA web site of an Amulet 1.8T. It looks almost burgundy in color here but other pics I've seen as well as the ones I've observed in person look much lighter: click here
Paul-- I agree with mbnut1 about the brake noise. I've heard numerous complaints similar in nature as you are describing from other VW and Audi owners.
BTW, I was going to make some comments on your inquiry over on the "new and improved" Club A4 forum but couldn't log-in with my old password. Did you have any problems? Either I'll have to e-mail George (El Greko) and inquire or re-register under a new screen name.
Chuck-- It's good to hear from you again! I didn't know you have an A4 too. I see that you're still the mainstay over at the Club.Vmag Outback/Forester forum. Without you, that forum would die out completely.*smiles* I'll have to try to participate over there again when I get the chance.
--'rocco
The best / least work tires belong on the rear because:
Particularly in slippery conditions (wet, etc) having the best / most tread on the rear tires will result in understeer rather than oversteer in most any emergency avoidance maneuver. When approaching (or exceeding) the limits of tire adhesion, understeer is typically much easier to deal with in such a situation – in the stress of such a moment. You just would typically not want the rear tires to break away first in any emergency.
Electronic stability control of various sorts may help here – but when all the tire grip is being used (up) terminal understeer is still probably safer.
(Oversteer certainly has a place is fun driving, under controlled conditions – but it is not best for when you really NEED the handling of the vehicle to help you out.)
Cheers,
- Ray
Who has experienced both terminal understeer and terminal oversteer . . . .