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Comments
If they make a quattro CVT that could handle full boost from a chip I'd be all over it.
Thanks!
-JB
Billy
We have had a continuous problem that didn't get fixed after 6 attempts, AoA was notified...and under VA lemon law it is classified as a lemon. I followed all protocol and was wondering if anyone is familiar with this point in the process.
Also, if they do agree to replace our A4, what's my best route there? Do they do an equivalent? Can I supplement additional options? What if I want a manual instead of Tip this time?
And advice would be very helpful!
thanks all!
-t
Here goes, assume your A4 is being replaced -- 100% [non-permissible content removed] for tat. You will get a new one equipped as close as possible to the lemon'd one. They are attempting to make you happy. They SHOULD, therefore, allow you -- at YOUR expense -- to equip the car with your choice of options.
When my friend's 2001 Caddy was determined to be a lemon, he was offered a 2002 Caddy replacement.
He was able to "custom order" the car -- he had Green, he wanted the replacement in Blue, done. Interior: he wanted some seat option that wasn't available in 2001 (and was extra cost in 2003) on his lemon replacement -- fine $x dollars and so on.
They even loaned him a car while his special order car was "being built or located or whatever they do to get a car when you use an order sheet."
His deal was a lease deal and they even factored all that in allowing him to keep the replacement car for the rest of the lease term or start all over (which actually technically meant a lower monthly payment -- due to some interest rate factors that had changed.) Now I doubt that he could have asked for an STS when he had a DeVille -- but who knows.
All I know is he said once the car had been declared a lemon -- everyone bent over backwards to keep him a Cadillac owner.
I would ask them to get the car with the options (including the manual transmission) that I wanted and understand that if I ordered "X" option and that option was not on the prior car that I SHOULD be expected to pay for that option.
I assume some adjustment would be made if some feature you wanted was in X package and was now in Y package or whatever.
What can it hurt at this point to politely ask?
What I was basically wondering is if it sounds like Audi is actually taking us seriously. It's been a loooong fight with the dealer and Audi. Our first contact with AoA ended with a "go to a different dealership. it sounds like a dealership problem."
It hasn't been declared anything right now, other than a real pain. Audis are some fun cars, but my 31 pages of repair documents from the dealer showed the "not so fun" side.
What was the last straw was when the dealer told me "Look, we don't know what's wrong or how to fix it. You're out of luck."
I might be out of luck, but that's where the law steps in!
I'm a new A4 1.8TQ owner, and after about 1 month of driving it, still learning new things about this car. First, I learned that is "normal" to add about 1qt. of oil during the first few thousand miles [mine at 1,400], then, this: after a normal city+freeway drive, I parked the car for about 20-30min. When started, no power! Like the turbo is not kicking in. Really annoying when trying to get in traffic and you see all the cars behind you coming really, really fast!
From other messages in this and other forums, seems there're contradicting opinions about cooling down the engine before shut-off. What is the solution, if there is one?
TIA
--'rocco
By the way, if you pop the hood at night right after you've been running it hard you can often see the turbo area glowing cherry red. Nothing wrong with that, but it proves the point about things getting a tad hot in there!
Cooling things down a minute or two is a very good idea.
my personal tastes would never chose an automatic transmission so i'm hoping to "tighten" things up in my current car....
does anyone know if a short shift kit is made for 2003 models?? if so, phone numbers? websites?
thanks
Safe driving.
Brian
Finally buying property in NV will now necessitate the trips I've been talking about for the past two years. I bought that car for driving back and forth from WA to NV so now it's finally going to happen ...finally planning to put mileage on my practically new A4: two and a half years old and only 3,500 miles!
Yeah, keep me posted on your experiences at your dealer. I'm always interested in hearing dealer experiences ...good and bad. I'm going to try to have the coils replaced at a dealer which I didn't purchase the car. I'll see how that goes. Or, I can wait until the winter or next spring and take it to "my" dealer. I'd be taking a chance but I'm thinking that I'll be okay with the old coils for awhile longer. It seemed like most of the ones that were failing were the series which were installed on the early '02 models.
--'rocco
BUT, if you are planning to keep the car until the wheel falls off. An extra oil change for $100 is cheap insurance.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Billy
The result:
- Oil change done with Mobil1 0W30 brought in by me. Along with topping up fluids, the oil change and the oil filter, it's $24.95 plus tax.
- Slight grinding noise came from a "Noisy right front wheel bearing". They replaced it under warranty.
- All coilpacks were replaced due to the recall. So I asked the service advisor if they're replacing in all A4's. He said it depends on VIN number and the computer will tell them if the cars carry the affected batches. Cool. FYI, I only received one letter from AoA so far informing me of the situation but only said cars disabled by the bad coilpacks will have them replaced, never gave any timetable regarding when unfailed coilpacks will be replaced. Of course no complaint on my part.
- No code can be found regarding the CEL. I know I know, I should get a friend who has a VAG to diagnose the car. Guess the code already cancelled itself.
And I got a dolphin gray 2003 A4 1.8T Quattro as a loaner with 3000 miles. NOt bad.
So all in all, it's a good day for my A4.....except they forgot to cancel out the warning that pops up to remind me when the next maintenance is due. For some reason it says I'm due in 100 miles.
Billy
I'm in the process of purchasing a 2000 A4 1.8t. I have seen many available and am wondering how I can identify that the vehicle has the sport package. Are the 16" 10 spoke wheels an indication or can the 10 spoke be installed without the sport package. Are the 8 spoke standard and the 10 spoke only with the spt pkg. When I purchase I am looking at chipping it to get the added performance.
Please e-mail me with what ever info could help. Thanks in advance
P.s. I'm in Canada so i don't know if there are and differences in packages that were offer by the dealers.
Can any of you recommend dealers known for high quality service and repairs in the Akron-Canton-Cleveland Ohio area? Thinking about buying a 2004 A4 1.8 with the six speed. Also, how expensive is the chip upgrade?
Thanks
Dane
By the way, in Europe 2004 Audi 1.8T got boost to 190hp standard
I've got some good info for you on dealers in our area. Send me an email (it's in my profile), and I'll give you the details. Thanks!
Paul
Is that correct? Can it be installed afterwards?
Thank you
You can try a couple of extra pounds of air and frequent (7,500 mile) rotations.
Dream on if you think 45K miles is realisitc with these tires -- they are designed to enhance the performance of the car, not last a long time.
Quattro eats tires, I doubt any tires will go 40k on a q-equipped car unless they're really hard and not very conducive to wet handling.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Has any one got the Audi rear window sunshade installed on their A4 1.8T? Is it a manual sunshade or a power one?
The Maximum performance tires that often come on Audis, BMW's, Vovlo's, etc. inherently -- by careful engineering, design and manufacture -- "decided" they would lend themselves to high speed, cornering, braking, wet weather traction, etc. -- a certain self-destructive or better said self-sacrifice is the price these tires pay.
They [these tires] live relatively short lives, but they enchance the performance perhaps more dramatically than any other single "removable" (i.e., not part of the suspension, per se, but part of a system) component.
My friends, who at my urging purchase Audi's and other fine European cars, generally replace their first set a number (in miles) that begins with a 2 -- and the second digit is usually a 0.
I see no particular reason that a quattro drive train is the root cause of the allegedly short tire life of Maximum performance summer tires.
So, as you may see, while we agree that the tire life will be by some measures "short" -- we disagree that the cause is the drive train.
Ask some Porsche owners if they wouldn't love to get 20,000 miles out of a set of their tires -- and pay the price for Audi shoes.
A new set of tires every year+ is about what these things need (assuming 15 - 20K miles per year).
The car comes the CPO 2 year/100k warranty. The dealer is offering an additional 24 months (we'll be below the mileage limit so the time will be the cut-off) for the powertrain for $1,070, or Comprehensive (everything but rubber parts, exhaust and brakes) for $1720. Based on owners experience, do either of these seem to be a good investment? We plan to own the car for at least 5 years if it behaves well.
These were replaced with all-season Dunlop Sport A2s. These now have 17k on them and are showing some signs of wear. I doubt I'll make it to the 30k mark with these.
If anybody has a suggestion for tires that would last for a while(35-40k) on a Quattro while giving decent pewrformance I'd like to hear it.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Vorsprung durch technik!
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I attempt to find high performance high value tires.
Several brands appear to do this: Falkin, Yokohama,
Kumho and Sumitomo come to mind. I generally try to find the highest performance, lowest profile AND quietest tires I can find within these brands.
A reasonable compromise appears to be Ultra High Performance and High Performance "all season" tires which do OK here in moderate winter Cincinnati, Ohio.
Let me state my terms: reasonable price around $150 per tires (up to $165); long life -- as a relative term -- more than 15,000 miles; performance Z or W rated (I would certainly be OK with V if I could find the other traits).
Now, if you want long life and relatively low price with "marginal" performance there are several tires rated as "high performance all season" that are OK -- wear over 20,000 miles, good touring quality, fairly quiet and H rated (OK performance) and they come from both the top and second tier manufactuers.
Long life, quiet, high performance, affordable by mere mortals tires = the Holy Grail of rubber: Camelot, Camelot -- "it's only a model" (Monty Python and the Holy Grail).
I'm all ears, too.
V-rated, cost about $130 each in my A4's 215/55-16
size, deliver good steering response braking etc. I am happy with them but I'd like more than 15k service out of $500 worth of tires.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I expected more out of them, perhaps for their price, but I've come to learn that Ultra high performance and Maximum performance tires (regardless of the suffix e.g., all-season) give up life for performance. It, thus far, goes with the terrirtory.
I just ordered a set of 245 x 45 x 18" Falkin Azeenis ST 115's ($164 each) but, yes I WILL need new wheels too.
This will be my second experience with the Falkin's and they are every bit as good as the Yokohama's I have had in the past; and they are purpose made tires -- Max performance, Z rated, Summer only. I will use my brand new factory original tires 225 x 55 x 17" from December 15th through the end of February and call it a day.
When I put on my summer wheels, I noticed that I was lucky I didn't get several blow-outs during the winter. One tire has a nail in the sidewall (unrepairable), and another one has a nail in the tread. Therefore the time has come to replace the set. I've decided to not go with pure winter tires since I've done well with all seasons in heavy snow (thanks, in part, to Quattro!).
For the winter season, I have on order the Continental ContiExtremeContact tires. They have a very high rating over at Tire Rack for handling (wet and dry), traction in snow, and road noise. They are classified as ultra high performance all season. Accoring to the UTQG rating (treadwear, traction, temperature), it has a better ratings than my Michelins! I'm looking forward to put it to the test.
Then when the winter season draws to a close, I'll begin the search for new summer tires. I currently have Dunlop SP Sport 8000 E tire (235 x 40 x 18") with approximately 15k miles on them. The tread is not yet down to the warning bars, but it's not too far from it. They've also become quite loud when driving (noise transferring inside - not really noticable from the outside). Since these are summer only tires, I'd say I have obtained the proper amount of mileage out of them and should be looking at replacing them every 1+ years.