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Mazda 626



  • tomcat630tomcat630 Posts: 854
    The high mile 626 should be worth $800, to me. Even then, one never know when it will konk out.
  • axeman42axeman42 Posts: 1
    check the vin on the vehicle and post it here. I had a 90 626 DX with 275,000 miles on it (no typo people) and I donated it to charity. The car was gray with a gray interior, had mudguards on all four fenders, and custom sideblinkers were installed on both front fenders. It had a cell phone antenna installed on the rear window. If this is the vehicle stay away from it, although I bought it new ( still have the bill of sale) and it gave me great service it needed major work when I donated it. At the time it was donated the A/C was inop. the tie rods needed replacing, and the tranny was slipping on the 2-3 upshift. This was the 3rd auto tranny for the car.
  • I have lousy radio reception (one AM station only). I suspect the antenna is unplugged from the radio. My problem is I can't find any maintenance/repair manual for a 1997 Mazda 626 and have no clue how to remove the radio to check the antenna connection. Can anyone help? Or is radio reception just poor for everyone?


  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Mazda says you need a tool to pull the stereo, but all you're actually doing is pushing down four spring-loaded clips, two on each side, which are covered by plastic bits. (This assumes that they didn't change the stereo head unit all these years; I learned this on a '93.) Once you have access to the clips, maintain equal pressure on both sides and the unit should be slidable.

    It's possible that the power antenna itself is at fault, but usually when this happens, it's painfully obvious.
  • I figured it would be something fairly simple. I'll have to give it a try tomorrow.

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Wal-mart sells a set of U-shaped tools for doing that(Less than $4). I have used 6d finishing nails but it makes it a little more tricky. With the right tool you just insert and push away from each other while sliding the audio unit out; very simple.
  • ian18ian18 Posts: 133
    You can make an excellent tool for taking out the car stereo using a wire hanger. The unit should be a snap to take out, however in my case the spring clips had been jammed in during the car assembly and I could not release them. I had to remove most of the dash to get to the back side. It was no fun but eventually I got it out.
  • mrpetermrpeter Posts: 1
    Hey guys.
    Just bought myself an '87 mazda 626 LX w/ 111k mi. Excelent condition. Grey w/ red interior. They guy wanted 2 grand, but we gave him $1600. Sounds like it runs fine, tranny is smooth. Any of you pro's out there can lemme know if i did ok with this buy? says 2.1 g's would be good, but i dont trust a computer as much as a mechanic...

    Come to think of it, i dont trust mechanics either :) (just kiddin guys! no offense)

    Thanks a lot!
  • Just wondering if anyone has experienced this problem.

    My air climate controls are screwing up on my 93 626 and I'm wondering how easy it would be to fix it myself. The actuator that switches from feet to front to window settings is 'clunking' or not switching. Plus, the swing vent button is not working all of a sudden. Is there a bad ground here? Is the wiring just starting to go? (250,000 km on it) or is the vent door or whatever the hell it is just binding up?

    There are a host of other problems I've fixed or have to fix. I only want to tackle one thing at a time. God what a money pit.
  • Well, I had a look at my climate control problem last evening. I was surprised the actuator motor was so accessible (near gas pedal). After much fiddling around switching buttons and watching and listening I have figured out the problem is mechanical and not electrical. The top gate seem to be having trouble swinging and is 'clicking' really loud when switched. So its an internal problem. The gate is probably plastic crap and a hinge might have broken or something. This means I have to live with this or go through a huge job ripping out the dash board to get at the air box. I'm afraid if I let this go it will burn out the actuator motor (which is several hundred dollars). The car is starting to show its age when the plastic parts start to fail.

    Par for the course.
  • maters04maters04 Posts: 1
    I recently found a 1996 Mazda 626 V6 LX for $3350. I was wondering if you guys could tell me if its a good deal. It has 136K miles on it. Interior looks great as well does the exterior. We are going to test drive it tonight. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks everybody!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,645
    I'll just assume its an automatic.
    Sounds good to me. I think the V6 is a great engine and should hold up. As long as its as clean as you say, that's a decent price. Maybe they'll even go down a little for you.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • captandy1captandy1 Posts: 1
    Hey folks...considering buying a 2000 ES 4 cylinder with 50,000 miles on it. Asking 12,900...we're sitting at 10,900 now. Any problems with this vehicle????
  • verozahlverozahl Posts: 574
    Mazda 626 is a relatively popular sedan in Ann Arbor among U-M students. Nothing exciting, but it gets the job done. Reliable. Nice styling. But no power... >:(
  • streach1streach1 Posts: 2
    how do i find the timing marks, and replace the timing belt on a Mazda 626 1994 Dual Overhead cam
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,645
    Is this a 4-cyl. automatic? Uh.... not sure if this holds true for '00 model year or not, but look back to see many many complaints of automatic tranny failure in 4-cyl. models.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • streach1streach1 Posts: 2
    4 cylinder automatic
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    These were four-cylinder cars with ES-level trim, offered with automatic only, and only for a couple of model years.

    The LA4A-EL/CD4E tranny had been substantially reworked by 1999, though not all the '99s got the last batch of changes.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    They're marked I and E and should point straight at one another.

    The tricky part, though, is getting to the belt, which is going to require, among other things, attacking the crankshaft pulley with a steering-wheel puller. Not a lot of room to work in there.
  • newtomenewtome Posts: 2
    I have been a VERY happy 5 sp. 323 owner since 1989 (230K on original eng. & trans., only clutch replacement at 198K). (I know -- I've been very lucky!!) Got rear-ended recently and am now thinking of purchasing a low mileage (just over 40K) 92 626. Read about 1/2 this forum and it appears that the AT in the 92 doesn't have the 94 probs. The car checks out well on Carfax and I will test drive it tomorrow.

    My questions are:
    - Are there any red flags I should look for during my inspection and road test?
    - What can I expect as far as reliability and frequency of repair (assuming its one owner took good care of the car)?
    - Also, I don't have a mechanic in the area where the car is located. Does anyone here have experience using Magoo's Automotive Consultants linked from Carfax? Do you have other suggestions on getting a professional's opinion before I fork over the $.
    - The seller's asking price appears to be based on the Kelley Blue Book Private Party value rather than the Edmonds TMV. What justification can I use to get the selling price closer to the TMV?

    Thanks so much for all your help.
  • kaspar10kaspar10 Posts: 11
    I recently purchased a new 626 4 cyl 5sp. I wonder if the A/C is working properly. It cools fine, but the compressor has a 5 second cycle. On for 5 seconds, then off for 5 seconds, etc. This is the first car I have purchased with the new type of freon so I am not sure if it is suppose to run like this or not. The old type of freon did not run like this. Of course the dealer says it is normal (I wonder if it were out of warranty whether that determination would change?), The Mazda "tech" helpline email address and 800 telephone number both end up telling me to contact the dealer, which has the above mentioned result........any ideas????
  • The idea is to run the compressor as little as possible, thereby creating the lowest possible power drain on the engine, which must be reckoned a Good Thing on a smallish four-cylinder. You've probably noticed that it cuts out entirely when you push harder on the gas.

    I would worry about this only if the transition from Off to On and back again causes any noticeable side effects, such as the engine seeming to bog down.
  • I am shopping for a 626 ES--though if I wait long enough I might get tempted by the new 6 model. A seeming oddity I have found--on dealer inventories on Mazda's website some models are designated as "MC6" rather than as LX or ES. Does anybody know what this means? I emailed the dealership about this, but the message was returned because their mailbox was full (nice being responsive to customer inquiries).

    Also would be interested in anybody's experiences with 2002 626s, pro or (especially) con.

  • kaspar10kaspar10 Posts: 11
    I purchased a 626 earlier this spring, I was shopping for an economy car, but the price on a 626 was only slightly higher, so I went for it. I am glad I did! Good stuff: ride, handling, comfort, economy, quality, reliability record and PRICE. The so-so: looks, stereo and maybe performance. I have a 4 cyl 5 spd which is OK, but not if you are into speeding on a regular basis. There is really nothing I would classify as bad. Of course a person has to have their goals set and find a car to fit those goals. If I wanted performance I might have gone for a Sentra SER Spec V. More luxury I would consider a Camry (less noise inside). I am very happy with my choice. It fit my needs and price. Nothing can beat the prices on a 626. All others in this class sell for lots more. Big discounts on the eve of the new 6. Other cars in this class are new and get sticker or near sticker it seems. Camry, Altima were new for 2002; Accord will be new in 2003. NO discounts on the outgoing Accord model, it's still a Honda with a Honda price (and attitude from the dealer). I have no regrets, but lots of satisfaction!!!!
  • Thanks for the input on the new 626. I'm driving a '94 LX with the 4 cyl and auto (driving in LA, having a stick just makes you pine for the wide open spaces), and I've been happy with it, despite having had to fix just about all the known bugs on this model year, with the exception of the infamous transmission. On the 2002 ES, I've just been given a quote for the INVOICE price, minus the 3k rebate. Mighty sweet. I'll probably go for it.

    BTW, my auto dealer gave me the reason for the MC. He said that, for some unknown reason, Mazda decided to change the trim designation from ES to MC halfway through the model year, so I guess that means if you come across a 626 MC V6, it's a 2002.5 model, if that means anything.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,645
    So have you actually seen this yet? Does it say "MC" on the trunk, rather than ES?

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Once you get up to speed, the 626 is actually pretty good at it, if only because it's so innocuous-looking that the gendarmes don't notice it; it's the polar opposite of, say, a red Corvette.

    Still, you don't win many stoplight races with this car, especially with the four.
  • Haven't actually seen the car yet. But the dealer says it's an ES.

    And I agree, windowphobe, it's fun on the freeways, whether it's the 4 or 6. Once you get it up into overdrive, the 4 just kinda skims along. Very enjoyable, though I'm looking forward to a little compare/contrast once I get V6. You can take the handling for granted, too, until you do what I did and rent an Impala on a vacation. Frightened various family members taking some curves a little too fast with my mumbled defense, "My 626 coulda taken that no sweat." The zoom zoom in action, although with that styling it's like a wolf in wing tips and a bad business suit.
  • Fortunately, when you drive it, you're on the inside and don't have to look at it.

    Actually, I don't think it's that bad, though I'm on record as insisting that the 2000 facelift was heavy-handed and overwrought - too much shiny stuff grafted on. Unfortunately, you had to buy that brightwork to get the suspension and steering tweaks in the '00. A fair trade, yes, but it runs counter to what I imagine as the spirit of Zoom².
  • I was actually invited by Mazda to be part of a focus group for the new 626 design soon after I bought mine back in '94. I gave it a thumbs-down, told them the current design was unique and part of what attracted me to the car in the first place while the redesign seemed calculated to bland in with every other Japanese sedan on the road. Was not invited to stay on for the small-group discussions. I got a hundred bucks and didn't even have to work a full day. But I guess they didn't need any naysayers in the crowd that day.

    Now here I am buying one. So I guess looks aren't everything.
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