I decided to get to the bottom of this CD player issue using every fibre of my engineering sense: I just sat in the cockpit and pushed every button on the radio until something happened LOL! As it turns out, Ford will not be requiring a sacrifice: hitting the forward "tune" direction button advances you to the next disc.
Hey all, I have a couple of issues with my Mercury GM, 94 V8 4.8 Liter. At about 75k miles I started to get the engine knocks, I took it into the shop, and they told me it was the EGR valves. They cleaned the EGR valves and replaced a couple of things and returned the car. 2 Days later the knocks came back. Does anyone know any possible issues here that may be re causing the knocking, or did the shop just do a poor job with the repairs?
My second question, I was recently rear ended, and was deemed not at fault. The car already has some other damages from a drunk driver who struck the car while parked. Now I'm debating whether it's worth it to replace the bumper. Her insurance cut me a check for the bumper, so it's my choice. The bumper damage is paint damage and one large crack on the right side that makes it somewhat flimsy. Any advice? Thanks everyone.
Only thing I can tell you about the EGR valve is that I had a mustang that the valve knocked on no matter how many I put in. Wouldn't worry if your sure it's not piston knock or lifters. Take the doe. Book value on a 94 merc with previous damage will be in the "beater" catagory. Only offer on my 01 crown after 2 weeks in the paper was $4600.00. So I kept it.
As it is difficult to sell a flimsy bumpered car, you will have to repair it before it is in saleable condition so you might just as well get the use of a decent looking bumper now and enjoy a better looking car.
As for the engine knocks, it may be that the mass air sensor needs replacing, however, if you are not losing acceleration power try a tankful of Premium gas.
If it still knocks on Premium, it isn't the quality of fuel, but something else.
Thanks both of you. The mechanic advnanced the timings on the engine and put in some octane booster. I'll call the autobody shop to get a quote on that bumper.
It worked...I made sure to make good contact with the tune button, and, lo and behold, the CD changed from Disc 2 to Disc 3...you are a genius, somewhere along the lines of Henry Ford, Walter Chrysler, and Mr. Daimler...
LOL! No problem, and your dogs are safe ^_^. Now, if only Ford would put information like that in the owner's manual, it would be very helpful to everyone else (I can't believe that we're the only two to have this problem). Oh well, it makes it an adventure - go exploring in your own car
I am trying to figure out how the lights work on a 1992 Ford Crown Vic and I appreciate any owner/knowledgeable person to help me. It is my understanding that there is no daytime running light on a 1992 Ford CV for US market. Also, it is possible to turn on the headlamp (low or high beams) with the contact in the on position, however, the park lights will not come on with the contact in the on position. Am I correct?
Can anyone give me some good recommendations for 225/60/16 tires for a 2001 Marquis? I want smoooooth and quiet. The car came with Goodyear LS which are getting noisy and harsh. Thanks.
I really like the Michelin Energy LX4s on my CV. They strike me as a nice balance between handling and ride comfort. I have Cooper Lifeliner IIs on my '85, but I have not been impressed with their wear.
Michelin X1 has been on our 94 Town Car for over 60k miles with lots of tread left. We take it skiing and in the snow it will go. Rides well and is quiet, but not cheap.
Michelin!! I have the XH4 (I think that's what they are without being close enough to look right now) on my 94 GM. This baby has almost 203k miles and has never had anything but Michelins. I love them -- they are smooth and quiet (which is highly important to me, too) and wear extremely well. Not cheap, but well worth the price. I also requested Michelins on my brand new Camry that I got in June.
I have a 94 GM with 203k miles. Just had the third power window fixed. One left to go. I'm just waiting for it to fail, too. Not a cheap fix. This last one -- motor and regulator -- cost me $429. The other two were just regulator failures, they were a lot cheaper. I sure hope all the windows keep working until I decide to get rid of the car.
I've learned the life of the little power window motors can be extended by closing the doors gently.
The insecure "macho men" non verbally assert their "masculinity" by slaming car doors, talking loud, & insist on riding in the right front. However, when I have to put up with these types they are reminded to close the door gently and the Right front seat is reserved for my wife!
Suddenly engine running rough, lCheck Engine light and low fuel light on, so filled the tank.
Check Engine light stayed on.
Monday morning it was in the Ford shop. 4.4 hours later it was repaired by replacing the original plugs, wires, 02 sensor and fuel filter and running a can of injector cleaner through. $742 bill of which $396 = labor. Check Engine light is out.
How could all of the above captioned parts need replacement at the same time?
I'm thinking just sediment in the bottom of the tank could have plugged the injectors, but the plugs, wires, & oxygen sensor were replaced too as though it were SOP. These parts were fine until almost out of gas. 16.7 gallons filled it.
my 96 MGM has electronic climate control. No matter at what setting I set the temperature I get only heat. It will switch from heat to defrost , heat/defrost, vent but I can put the setting to 15 degrees c and I only get heat. The mechanic says that one of the Doors that mixes the heat and cold could be stuck. He says that sometimes that the door hinges get stuck. Also behind the glove compartment there are some electronic controllers and he thinks that they may be defective.Is there an error code that I should get for this type of problem. Also where is this mixing door located that he is talking about?
all those parts were overdue for replacement.he has to warranty his repairs.it would be downright irresponsible to leave regular "maintenance" items in there that should have been replaced anyways.i do think you were charged quite a bit for the parts used and labor performed.
A class action suit against Ford has been settled that will reimburse owners of 1996 -2001 Grand Marq's who have had trouble- see link below - tou must act within the dates specified:
All of those repairs sound about right - it's the amount of the bill that seems mighty high. The car is 10 years old, which is well within the range of when those parts need replacing. The only repair that would be difficult for someone with average mechanical ability would be the o-2 sensors. I realize it is easy to say after someone does the diagnosis.
One advantage of the Panther platform is it is well known, little changed design in the last 15 years that has little on it that would stump most mechanics. Nearly any independent garage can fix them relatively easily. I'd avoid the dealer and build a relationship with a well respected independent.
Thank you for your input. Part of the bill I did not mention was the Sales Tax of $50 plus a $7 charge for rags & such. In the process of paying, I asked if the bill included the "Sr. Citizen" discount. It didn't so they refigured and deducted 10% of the parts bill.
I agree the plugs, wires, filter, & maybe the o2 sensor needed or would have soon needed to be replaced. By doing so, the dealer prevented an early "Comeback" who would proclaim, "I just had it in here. Why didn't you repair it right the first time."
Finding the well respected independent mechanic is on my list.
I have a 1992 Ford Crown Vic and the airbag light is flashing. It flashes 5 times pauses then once and pauses,then starts over and over and over all the time. What does this code mean ? Is my airbag good ? Do I have a sensor out? Caqn I buy something to fix it myself????? Thank You :confuse:
I have a 1992 Ford Crown Vic and the airbag light is flashing. It flashes 5 times pauses then once and pauses,then starts over and over and over all the time. What does this code mean ? Is my airbag good ? Do I have a sensor out? Can I buy something to fix it myself????? Thank You :confuse:
The funny thing about this forum - is that there are a lot of questions being asked - and noone to answer them...
I just picked up a 97 Grand Marquis thru Ebay and am very pleased with the vehicle. This was one gamble that paid off!
Issues that hopefully someone can address with a suggestion:
1.) The front amber parking lights on the corners (between the low beam and cornering lamp) - My doesn't flash with the turn signal and I'm thinking it probably should. (If it should - any ideas as to why it isn't?)
2.) My hazards do not work - whether the car is running or not.
3.) The auto dimming rear view mirror doesn't work - as if it isn't getting power (much like hazards.) That was a pain this morning - especially since it was dark/rainy this morning on my a.m. commute.
Any help is appreciated.
Flashing airbag: My brother has a 93 Taurus that did the same thing. They never fixed it - just got used to it flashing. I'm sure that is not the answer you seek. My guess is corrosion on one of the sensors or something sensor related.
There are more questions than answers because most of us do not have SAE designations behind our name, but when we do have a solution based on personal experience, it is usually forthcoming and shared.
open up the hood. do the wires look new? pull one the wires from a spark plug (carefully!). does the plug look new(no dark ring around where the boot for the wire ended?) if yes, it looks like they did what they said they did.
1) My '00 corner/marker lights do NOT flash. Only the inside ones, next to the grille, are turn signals. Not sure about your year, though. 2) Have you checked your fuses? 3) There is very little noticeable difference between day and night RVM on mine. The only noticeable difference in mine is night view "darkens" lights from the rear. They still bother me if I let them.
My 99 GM stalling problem is back again after Aug/04,Feb & July/05 visits to the dealerships. This time, it cranked, starts & able to maintain a very fast rough idle but stalls when the foot comes off the gas. Check Engine light stays on during fast rough idle and don't go out.
Had the car towed to the dealership and they determined a faulty "idle air control valve" which they replaced. Seemed they have fixed the problem this time - even the brake pedal comes up a little too - perhaps without the vacuum leak?
Love the GM, its shape and size. Too many vehicles slows down on the freeway whenever I approach - when they see the driver is not in uniform and the plate is not CA exempt etc, they sped away so fast....
Thanks for your help folks. I guess it seems weird the the corner lights wouldn't flash. That is usually how you tell when a car is turning when you approach from the side. Weird...
I pulled all of the fuses in the interior. I guess I should check the fuses in the engine bay.
3.) The auto dimming rear view mirror doesn't work - as if it isn't getting power (much like hazards.) That was a pain this morning - especially since it was dark/rainy this morning on my a.m. commute.
Examine the back of the mirror facing the windshield. If you locate a sensor - eye cover the whole sensor with black electrician's tape. Covering the sensor blocks out other outside lighting and that sensor picking up the outside light diminishes the effectiveness of the darkening.
In checking the Hazard lights - do your Brake lights work? If brake lights work, I'd gamble it is in need of a turn signal switch.
My 2000 Grand Marquis was recently clipped by a 18-wheeler in downtown Birmingham. His rear trailer tires took off the driver side mirror and left rubber marks the length of the car. I found a replacement mirror but am having a problem locating the chrome strips for moulding on both doors. Does anyone know some web sites where I might locate these? I would appreciate it. (havehadit)
If you haven't tried salvage yards, look there first. Most are now hooked into a teletype sort of group and can locate them for you from far away places, then have them shipped to your local yard. Two caveats: 1) make sure you can refuse to accept them if, upon seeing them, they are damaged or not exactly like yours, and 2) get an agreed price before you send for them. Good luck!
Seeing how the exterior has not changed since 1998, used parts are plentiful, and easy to obtain, especially with all the law enforcement vehicles being junked.
"98 GM with 92K miles very well maintained. CEL steadily on for last week. Car running fine. Anyone know what is most likely bad part before I go to dealer for diag. test as it is out of all warranties?
Check your gas cap first. If it's loose it may be causing it to come on. There are 1001 things that can cause the check engine light to come on in any car and most are not serious problems to fix.
I have a 1994 GM that does the same thing. No, your airbags do not work. This is code 51, which is a short in your airbag sensor wires. It may not be a cheap fix, and definitely not something to tackle yourself. I have been living with the flashing light for almost 2 years because my mechanic can't tell me how much it will cost to fix it. Could be a lot, could be a little. It all depends on how long it takes them to find the short. Once they do, they must install a new sensor, and any kind of sensor is always expensive. They said it doesn't make sense to just install a new sensor, because the short in the wires will just destroy the new sensor. They must find and fix the short first. My car has 203k miles on it, so I haven't been willing to put out the money on this problem. I have a new Camry I drive on long trips, so the GM light just keeps flashing away. It was very annoying at first, but now I don't even notice it.
I had the same issue on a 92 Miata - I sold the car with the airbag light flashing.
If I was not concerned about the airbag going off for no reason, I'd just either pull the bulb for the warning light, or put a piece of electrical tape over it on the dash.
Airbags supposidely have only about a 15 year life. That being said, below is the list for the airbag warning light codes. Maybe yours is code 51 (5 flashes followed by one), which could be a blown fuse?
CODE - COMPONENT/FAULT DESCRIPTION No Indicator - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor Continuous Indicator - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative 12 - Low Battery Voltage 13 - Air Bag or Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground 21 - Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 22 - Safing Sensor Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage 23 - Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open 24 - Safing Sensor Output Feed/Return Circuit Open or Low Resistance in a Primary Crash Sensor 32 - Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 33 - Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 34 - Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 35 - Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 41 - Primary Crash Sensor Circuits High Resistance or Open 44 - RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 45 - Circuit Going to RH Radiator Ground Monitor Splice Open 46 - LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 51 - Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists. Short to Ground was Serviced or is Intermittent 52 - Back-up Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault 53 - Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault Rapid Continuous Flashing - All Primary Crash Sensors Disconnected
My specs are on the dogleg inside the RR door. 32 psi when cold. I keep them, though, at 34 - 36. That gives a slightly noisier, stiffer ride, but slightly better gas mileage. No noticeable unusual tire wear with the higher psi.
Hi. I keep my 99 GM Michelin at 42psi all around. The ride is firmer and perhaps a little noisier,a little harder on the suspension system but the vehicle rides more steady, steers and corners so much better. Fuel economy is great and you can feel the minimal rolling resistance. Understand all the racing vehicles on the speedways have their tires at much higher psi - 50 psi or up?
label says 35 psi cold front and rear...max tire pressure on the tire says 45 psi...I run at 38 psi cold, allowing me at least 6 psi loss and still be in reasonable range, plus car rides a little firmer, how I like it to ride...
After I heard the ripped of carbon canister dragging on the ground I removed it and tied up the loose hoses ... what should I do next? Can I leave it this way for a week or two without hurting my car? 26K miles v-8
I am doing FEMA disaster work in New Orleans and have a minimum of tools with me but I do have my Snap-on diagnostic computer.
an help or suggestions is welcome. ?should I plug the hoses? ?should I connect them? ?should I plug one and leave one open?
my soleniod valve broke and the shild was bent bt I fixed it Can this unit be relocated like into the trunk? New Orleans roads are in terrible condition so a repeat is likely to happen.
Flats from nails are very common occurance to us disaster inspectors. Road hazards and broken pavement are common.
Wish I had the answers, but as you are in NO as an inspector, I have to ask.....
Considering the extent of destruction, quality of structures before it was laid waste,and located significantly below sea level, is it reasonable and prudent to rebuild - creating another target for the next hurricane?
Comments
My second question, I was recently rear ended, and was deemed not at fault. The car already has some other damages from a drunk driver who struck the car while parked. Now I'm debating whether it's worth it to replace the bumper. Her insurance cut me a check for the bumper, so it's my choice. The bumper damage is paint damage and one large crack on the right side that makes it somewhat flimsy. Any advice? Thanks everyone.
Char
As for the engine knocks, it may be that the mass air sensor needs replacing, however, if you are not losing acceleration power try a tankful of Premium gas.
If it still knocks on Premium, it isn't the quality of fuel, but something else.
Engine knock on a car that old could be anything, since you don't know the maintenance done in the past. It is 12 years old now.
Char
It worked...I made sure to make good contact with the tune button, and, lo and behold, the CD changed from Disc 2 to Disc 3...you are a genius, somewhere along the lines of Henry Ford, Walter Chrysler, and Mr. Daimler...
I owe you one choc chip cookie...
Bob
I am trying to figure out how the lights work on a 1992 Ford Crown Vic and I appreciate any owner/knowledgeable person to help me. It is my understanding that there is no daytime running light on a 1992 Ford CV for US market. Also, it is possible to turn on the headlamp (low or high beams) with the contact in the on position, however, the park lights will not come on with the contact in the on position. Am I correct?
I appreciate any help,
Regards,
Eric
ComforTreds are designs for comfort, TripleTreds for better traction.
We take it skiing and in the snow it will go. Rides well and is quiet, but not cheap.
The insecure "macho men" non verbally assert their "masculinity" by slaming car doors, talking loud, & insist on riding in the right front. However, when I have to put up with these types they are reminded to close the door gently and the Right front seat is reserved for my wife!
Suddenly engine running rough, lCheck Engine light and low fuel light on, so filled the tank.
Check Engine light stayed on.
Monday morning it was in the Ford shop. 4.4 hours later it was repaired by replacing the original plugs, wires, 02 sensor and fuel filter and running a can of injector cleaner through. $742 bill of which $396 = labor. Check Engine light is out.
How could all of the above captioned parts need replacement at the same time?
I'm thinking just sediment in the bottom of the tank could have plugged the injectors, but the plugs, wires, & oxygen sensor were replaced too as though it were SOP. These parts were fine until almost out of gas. 16.7 gallons filled it.
Your opinion on the above process is appreciated.
http://www.fordmanifoldsettlement.com/
One advantage of the Panther platform is it is well known, little changed design in the last 15 years that has little on it that would stump most mechanics. Nearly any independent garage can fix them relatively easily. I'd avoid the dealer and build a relationship with a well respected independent.
Thank you for your input. Part of the bill I did not mention was the Sales Tax of $50 plus a $7 charge for rags & such. In the process of paying, I asked if the bill included the "Sr. Citizen" discount. It didn't so they refigured and deducted 10% of the parts bill.
I agree the plugs, wires, filter, & maybe the o2 sensor needed or would have soon needed to be replaced. By doing so, the dealer prevented an early "Comeback" who would proclaim, "I just had it in here. Why didn't you repair it right the first time."
Finding the well respected independent mechanic is on my list.
Again, Thank you for your replies and opinions.
I just picked up a 97 Grand Marquis thru Ebay and am very pleased with the vehicle. This was one gamble that paid off!
Issues that hopefully someone can address with a suggestion:
1.) The front amber parking lights on the corners (between the low beam and cornering lamp) - My doesn't flash with the turn signal and I'm thinking it probably should. (If it should - any ideas as to why it isn't?)
2.) My hazards do not work - whether the car is running or not.
3.) The auto dimming rear view mirror doesn't work - as if it isn't getting power (much like hazards.) That was a pain this morning - especially since it was dark/rainy this morning on my a.m. commute.
Any help is appreciated.
Flashing airbag: My brother has a 93 Taurus that did the same thing. They never fixed it - just got used to it flashing. I'm sure that is not the answer you seek. My guess is corrosion on one of the sensors or something sensor related.
There are more questions than answers because most of us do not have SAE designations behind our name, but when we do have a solution based on personal experience, it is usually forthcoming and shared.
Euphonium, BA
2) Have you checked your fuses?
3) There is very little noticeable difference between day and night RVM on mine. The only noticeable difference in mine is night view "darkens" lights from the rear. They still bother me if I let them.
Good luck.
Had the car towed to the dealership and they determined a faulty "idle air control valve" which they replaced. Seemed they have fixed the problem this time - even the brake pedal comes up a little too - perhaps without the vacuum leak?
Love the GM, its shape and size. Too many vehicles slows down on the freeway whenever I approach - when they see the driver is not in uniform and the plate is not CA exempt etc, they sped away so fast....
I pulled all of the fuses in the interior. I guess I should check the fuses in the engine bay.
Thanks.
Examine the back of the mirror facing the windshield. If you locate a sensor - eye cover the whole sensor with black electrician's tape. Covering the sensor blocks out other outside lighting and that sensor picking up the outside light diminishes the effectiveness of the darkening.
In checking the Hazard lights - do your Brake lights work? If brake lights work, I'd gamble it is in need of a turn signal switch.
I'm in MI, and the dark blue GM color fools drivers into thinking I'm a State Trooper. I like the color, but think I'll choose another next time.
Whats the proper tire pressurer for this year?
Thanks in advance.
Congrats on the purchase - gas prices have made them even better deals.
If I was not concerned about the airbag going off for no reason, I'd just either pull the bulb for the warning light, or put a piece of electrical tape over it on the dash.
Airbags supposidely have only about a 15 year life. That being said, below is the list for the airbag warning light codes. Maybe yours is code 51 (5 flashes followed by one), which could be a blown fuse?
CODE - COMPONENT/FAULT DESCRIPTION
No Indicator - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor
Continuous Indicator - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative
12 - Low Battery Voltage
13 - Air Bag or Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground
21 - Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22 - Safing Sensor Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage
23 - Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24 - Safing Sensor Output Feed/Return Circuit Open or Low Resistance in a Primary Crash Sensor
32 - Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
33 - Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34 - Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
35 - Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41 - Primary Crash Sensor Circuits High Resistance or Open
44 - RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45 - Circuit Going to RH Radiator Ground Monitor Splice Open
46 - LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
51 - Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists. Short to Ground was Serviced or is Intermittent
52 - Back-up Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault
53 - Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault
Rapid Continuous Flashing - All Primary Crash Sensors Disconnected
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Fuel economy is great and you can feel the minimal rolling resistance.
Understand all the racing vehicles on the speedways have their tires at much higher psi - 50 psi or up?
I am doing FEMA disaster work in New Orleans and have a minimum of tools with me but I do have my Snap-on diagnostic computer.
an help or suggestions is welcome.
?should I plug the hoses?
?should I connect them?
?should I plug one and leave one open?
my soleniod valve broke and the shild was bent bt I fixed it Can this unit be relocated like into the trunk? New Orleans roads are in terrible condition so a repeat is likely to happen.
Flats from nails are very common occurance to us disaster inspectors. Road hazards and broken pavement are common.
Considering the extent of destruction, quality of structures before it was laid waste,and located significantly below sea level, is it reasonable and prudent to rebuild - creating another target for the next hurricane?