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thank you
95 T Bird & 66 Mustang. Currently I mix 5/30 with 20/50 (1/2,1/2) & the engines are quiet, smooth, & powerful.
Indeed, it's the only way to get respect for the Panther platform on the streets these days!
Plus, who doesn't love those little hubcaps?
the owner's manual for my '98 P71 says something like 235HP & 275 ft/lbs...
3.55 gears, too; same as the H&P package?
Has anyone driven one of these cars with a posi in the snow? Did it actually move it in a straight line or does it still fish-tail even with both wheels spinning?
I was toying with the idea of getting a newer Vic or GM and putting Eaton's E-Locker in it; the E-Locker lets you electronically lock the rear end at your discretion. But I think it only works at low speeds... (I don't know too much about it...)
Rear end is 3.27 in the Sport, 3.27 or 3.55 in the CVPI, depending on what is ordered.
What might those be and have you tried them???
Since the GM/CV cars (sadly) depreciate like rocks, I would suggest looking for one with 50-75K miles, and can still pick up for a good price...
I would hate to trade in my 2004 CV now, 1 year old, 30K miles, $25K new...they would probably offer me $10K for it, and that would be generous...
I've read the install can be fairly easy if my car radio has RCA cable inputs.
Just wondering if anybody may know if the 2000 Grand Marquis LS is equipped with the inputs?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks
Hey, tires wear anyways so just put on 4 snows and make sure you get them off before the ambient temp gets too warm.
All I do is put 150 lbs of sand tubes in the trunk, on the shelf, and pay attention. I remove them when I don't think I'll need them, as the extra wieght in the back does make the steering feel slightly different.
That being said, I will be getting the best all season tires for snow I can find when the Goodyear Eagle LS wear out - I'm leanings towards Goodyear TripleTreds. I don't feel I need the hassle of snowtires for the amount of snow we get.
My first experience was in a '39 Chev Master Deluxe with 6:00 X 16 bias ply tires. In my desire to get to the ski areas w/o other tires, I soon learned how to drive on slick mountain roads with what was on the car.
Since then and with the radial tires, I've relied on the Michelin All Season while shunning the Alpine line. Once while parked at Mt. Bachelor in two feet of fresh snow on the ground I warmed up the car, loaded it with passengers, skis, boots, poles and wine jugs, put it in Second and gradually pressed on the gas pedal. The '67 Ford Country Sedan slowly crawled out of the 2 feet of snow without spinning any rear wheel. Michelins then and Michelins now.
In climbing the Cascades & Rockies on compact snow and ice, the All Season tires work just fine. If I need snow tires, I hang iron. Rear wheel drive going up hill is preferred as gravity shifts the weight rearward.
For me, successful snow driving is being patient and do everything s l o o o w l y.
IMO studded tires tear up the road and should be taxed accordingly. 4WD and AWD give the novice driver a false sense of security and the closer the wheelbase, the more the vehicle spins like a top. Merry Christmas!
more power
better/custom seats or recaros
dashboard
suspension
ultimate paint job
the objective is to make it into a great handler with power. what the maurauder could have been but was not.
looking for the name of acompany that will modify extensively
thank you
http://www.kennybrown.com/
Plan to keep your KB at least ten years after he is finished with it.
I'd be tempted to invest the money in a newer Grand Marquis, though I have to say the newer ones are not as comfortable as the older, softer ones. I would guess if everything works, someone would give you a few hundred for it.
A loose oil filter could be the cause of hemorrhaging engine oil and that's a $5 fix. A rear seal is worth fixing, but I don't think it would be spraying oil if that was it.
I just have doubts your GM is terminal & wonder what your 1st mechanic specifically said caused the leak.
If you drive it to another shop, make sure you check the dipstick before you go. If would be nice if someone could check it out where it sits so you don't have to drive it if it is leaking that badly.
Also, leaving the filler cap off or very loose can cause oil to blow everywhere, especially if the oil pours in right over the camshaft. That was one of the biggest messes I've ever had to clean up.
http://www.fordmanifoldsettlement.com/
Thinking of some upgrades like American Torque-Thrust wheels, "subtle" flowmasters and duals to set me apart form the blue-hairs tooling around here (West Central Florida). No insult intended....
Deke
I know they came in primer, black, and and blue pearl.
For the exhaust, I have an LSE, which came with a factory dual exhaust, so all I did was add chrome tips.
Ditto on the wheels on the LSE prior to 2002 - they look good, so I kept them stock.
I mix 50% 15/50 to 50% 10/30 (Mobil 1 synthetic) as I've not seen Mobil 1 10/40 on the shelf. At highway speeds it goes for 1200 miles before adding a quart.
Good to know these engines go for over 300k miles as I'm not interested in a new TC until Ford comes out with a new body design - all while I still admire the '04 XJ8!