Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

Kirstie_H · November 2008

A reporter is interested in talking with satisfied owners of a 2001-2006 Ford Crown Victoria or Mercury Grand Marquis who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to jwahl@edmunds.com no later than Friday, November 21, 2008 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.

Thanks for your consideration,

Jonathan Wahl
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.

jett3101 · November 2008

i have a 97 vic that has started to run like absolute crap. hesitates and stinks like gas. any thoughts?

euphonium · November 2008

Tell more about the car. Miles on it. How it is driven = city or highway, Brand of gas. What components have been replaced in the ignition and exhaust system.

Without knowing more about your car, my wild guess would be to replace the CATS.

nvbanker · November 2008

Do you have a check engine light lit?

monkeybiz6903 · November 2008

My 95 did the same thing drove me nuts. Turned out the EEC computer was bad. Its under the dash by steering column.

marsha7 · November 2008

My 2004 CV seat belt has almost stopped retracting, as the springs (or whatever draws it back into the body) are worn out after 100K miles...before I call Ford, does anybody have an idea of what replacement cost is???

(BTW, the same thing happened to my Prelude at about 125K, and when I showed the dealer they told me that seatbelts at Honda have a LIFETIME warranty and it was exchanged at no charge...it would be nice if Ford had the same warranty)...

euphonium · November 2008

Hi Bob,

Good to know you are still with us.

My 66 Mustang won an award this past summer sponsored by a Personal Injury attorney. I call it my Tort Trophy.

merc24 · November 2008

My 01 Grand Marquis Engine is knocking (the oil was really low). Some say its a rod and someone eles suggested that it maybe the oil pump. Does anyone know a way I can tell becuase i'd really hate to go and pay for another motor.

snowbird6 · November 2008

It is probably both. If he oil got that low, it probably damaged all the rod and main journals bearings. To check the oil pump, have a garage put a direct reading gauge on the engine and check the oil pump output pressure. You must have a significant oil leak to lose that much oil. With a rod "knocking", you are looking at least at turning the crankshaft, new bearings and gaskets. Will probably mean removing the engine to do the repairs. Just a guess, but would estimate o/a $2000.00. to repair your engine.

tiffbell4321 · December 2008

I have a 1993 Mercury Marquis, over 100K and the engine started knocking a few weeks ago. What can it be? What can I do? I need my car. How much to fix?

Tiffany

marsha7 · December 2008

Others may have a more educated opinion than me, but the first thing I would do is put dry gas in the fuel tank, as you may have water in the gasoline...simple, but it could make the engine knock, esp if the fuel is from the bottom of the station's tank...before you spedn $1000s, I would spend $5.00 for a few bottles of that...also, as you get to 1/2 tank, try some high test to offset what could possibly be lousy fuel, and go to a diff station than usual...good luck...

marsha7 · December 2008

I have a right front side marker light, amber, that the bulb is bad...it look like just removing one screw to remove the amber plastic should be easy, but I remove the screw and the plastic will not come out...I was hesitant to just yank on it, as there may be something else holding it together...then again, it may simply be stuck after 4 years and 109,000 miles...

Any thoughts from anyone who has done it???...do I yank it or is there a screw I cannot see???

euphonium · December 2008

My experience includes the lens being "stuck" to the gasket. Using a small pen knife or X Acto blade usually (with patience) the lens can be pried from its position.

I would start at the screw side. Sometimes an owners maintenence manual will have instructions on changing the bulbs. Good Luck.

jamesja · December 2008

I've searched the forum, and the Internet, and there is conflicting information about the proper way to remove the rear seat base; pull up at the front vs. pull up at the back. If there is a wrong way I need to know. Don't want to damage my new (9k miles) Mercury. My young son has lost several Legos and other small toys down the holes in the seat base for the seat belt, and it's time to recover the treasure.
-jj-

euphonium · December 2008

The dealer's employee who regularly installs after market accessories will know the answer.

calpete · December 2008

Am considering purchasing a GM, but would like to know from any do-it-yourselfers if these cars lend themselves to such antics. I'm retired & have quite a bit of amateur automotive experience, doing basic maintenance on my cars, i.e. oil/filter, plug, O2, exhaust, brake changes, etc. And I like to keep the fluids clean. Really like the features of the GM that you can't find on any other cars today. Had opportunity to rent one for a 1,500 mile trip; couldn't find anything wrong with the ride of performance. Think the GS would be fine for my needs. Any comments appreciated. Thanks.

Cal

mrlauderdale · December 2008

Hi there!
I have a 1996 Marquis GS and my parents have 2006 LS. I bought them both in Florida and we shipped them to Germany. So far, we do most of everything by our self, incl. all the oils, filters etc. We are even going to repair accident-damages to both our Marquis that unfortunately happened recently. I was cut by a Semi Truck in Town, but my Marquis hold up very well I have to say!! These cars are very strong and simple in a positive way! You almost need 2 persons to carry one front fender!! And everything is pretty logic and easy manufactured on these cars and people here in Germany (thats where we live) are always pretty excited and impressed when they see our cars and their solidity!! By the way, a lot of room in the engine-compartment for easy maintanance, too! A couple things changed from 1996 to 2006, the newer cars are a bit louder (we guess, thinner glass to save weight) and not as smooth anymore, although, compared with other cars today, are still smooth and silent!! Try to get the rear Air Suspension maybe includet with the LS!? It´s a lot smoother! The exhaust probably never needs to be changed, although we changed to dual exhaust by our selfs, too! If you buy it now, you will probably get a fantastic price. It´s a real bargain, anyways! Have fun with it! Sorry for my english!

calpete · December 2008

Thanks for your reply. There is a certain satisfaction from doing as much maintenance yourself within reason. Am a big believer in frequent oil changes so glad to hear in can be done by the owner.

seustism · January 2009

My 2004 GM has had a "Crunch" sound in the front since the 2nd scheduled maintenance check as a new vehicle. Dealer reported no obvious problems . After next maintenance check they injected something into the casing. Still crunches ! Then dealer decided it was the hood and adjusted the "springs" on either side of the front of the hood. Still crunches. Now my GM is drives like a sail boat on choppy seas ! It bounces all over at the slightest bump in the road. Any suggestions ???

joesmith2 · January 2009

Its a peach. I paid $9K for it last march with 65K miles. It has 92K now, the only issue was the battery that I replaced (with an Optima). It starts in -15 degrees after sitting outside for several days, and it rides and handles great. My previous car was a 96 GM. It had 3 of the power windows fail, it melted a hole in the intake manifold, and the heater core failed. It still runs with 195K miles, so maybe I shouldn't complain. But still, I hope my 2003 won't have those problems.

euphonium · January 2009

95 T Bird 4.6L, 110,000 and had to replace the heater core.

What is there about Ford heater cores used in '95 & '96 that cause them to fail?

aviatordave · February 2009

I have a 1994 MGM with 120k miles on it. It ran fine up until a month ago when it would surge as I accelerated. It did this for about a month then it just wouldnt start. I assumed it was the fuel pump so changed it and the filter out. The car ran again but still surges as I accelerate and just doesnt have the power it should. Now it wont start again, it just turns over and it almost 'feels' like it wants to start but wont. Is this a fuel problem or is there a sensor goofing me up?

Any help appreciated!

snowbird6 · February 2009

Had a 96 GM and had a hesitation problem. Mechanic cleaaned the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor ( rather than get a new one) with a chemical spray cleaner and it solved the problem.

euphonium · February 2009

I agree. Mass Air Flow Sensor is to be replaced or spray cleaned.

aviatordave · February 2009

So the mass air flow sensor would keep the vehicle from actually starting?

euphonium · February 2009

Have it spray cleaned and see. Is it the original MAF sensor and how many miles on it?

22 Jun 04 108,597 Replaced MAF Sensor on our 94 Town Car. Result = like it was new again and towing the boat was a pleasure.

aviatordave · February 2009

OK. I see it is right next to the airbox. The car has 122k on it, but until lately had run excellent. It looks like the original MAF Sensor but I see they used the special torx screws to hold it down. I'll have to get the right tool at work tomorrow and take it off to clean.

Just for grins I tried to start it again, I hear the fuel pump operate and the engine just turns over, never starts......arrgggggggg

euphonium · February 2009

Hope you use the recommended spray cleaner. (Don't know what it is.) Because it was replaced, but remember to be very careful with the two prongs. Spray them well, but don't touch them as well.

aviatordave · February 2009

Great. I gotta use a certain type of cleaner? I'll have to look into that.

Also, someone else told me that if the MAF is unplugged then the car might start but run on the rich side. Did anyone hear of this before?

I'll try it later today, I have nothing to lose.

mrlauderdale · February 2009

Hello there,

I have a 1996 Marquis and have already posted my experience with that kind of problem a while ago. Before you open the MAF and try to clean it, unplug it and see if the car is running wild but also better. If it is doing that, it´s probably the MAF. I tried to clean it like many said on the internet, but that didn´t help, I had do get a new one!!

Some people reported, that after thy cleaned it, 3 month or so later they had to buy a new MAF anyway..

Good Luck

snowbird6 · February 2009

Hi Ref. my comment on the use of a chemical cleaner - The mechanic used a "Carburator choke cleaner" to clean the MAF on my 96. That was two years ago and it is still running "ok".

aviatordave · February 2009

Well it turned out not to be the MAF. I guess I had a couple spark plug wires that had very high resistance. I just got fed up with this problem and took it in to the local shop. It cost me $70 for them to tell me the problem, its worth it to me.

I'll change all the plugs and wires tomorrow and see how that goes.

-Dave

aviatordave · February 2009

All fixed. Runs great, like a new car again.

All this over plug wires.....they even looked new under the hood before I changed them. They wanted to charge me $230 to replace the plugs/wires with labor. I got the parts at autozone for about 70 bucks and it took me 45 minutes.

I'm ready to roll!

Thanks all for your help and insight!

-Dave

gearhead11 · February 2009

is there any way to bypass the computer on my 84 cv and put a regular carb on it instead of the throttle body carb? I want to put a 4bbl carb and intake on it. The throttle body carb is giving me problems.:confuse:

art31 · March 2009

Help, my check engine light keeps coming on, then the car hesitates very bad. Jiffy Lube said it is error code 1255 but doesnt know what that means. anyone out there have an idea what this is?

yonsei93 · August 2009

Hi,
My car currently has 145000 mile and the car runs good but the gear seems to shift when I speed going up hill or whenever a speed like a clicking sound. The lights on the radio has gone out and want to bring it back. What is the average cost to replace the rear differential fluid? What kind of services do I need to do?.. :confuse:

19cami57 · December 2009

I am so disappointed since buying a 1996 Grand Marquis. I know.... it's a used car but it' has only 55,337one owner elderly lady driven miles on it with problems already. I've seen elderly ladies buy these cars and swear by them so when this one was available, I snatched it up in a hurry only to have several problems crop up within a couple of weeks. I've parked it untill I can find out more about the car from dealers and mechanics. I drive a 1993 Buick LeSabre I've owned since it had 28,400 mi on it and now over 165,000. It's still drives out like a charm. Virtually no problems other than the usual services, brakes, alternator, water pump, power steering pump etc. and not all at one time. The window motors have even gone bad on the Grand Marquis and now I learn that the plastic intake manifold goes bad at around 70,000 or so miles. Give me a break. So glad I didn't pay the new car price for one of these.

euphonium · December 2009

When ALL of the power windows stop, it is usually a sign of a weak battery. It may help to clean the corrosion off the terminals and cables & charge it to full strength.

There used to be a factory recall switching the plastic intake manifold out to a tin one. Maybe the previous owner has already had that done.

Determine the maintenence history from either the dealer or former owner or both.

turbo301 · December 2009

I have a 2004 Crown Victoria with the same mileage as your LeSabre (I bought it when it was less than a year old at 19,000) and have had to change nothing major on it but the drive belt and tensioner (and the latter was my fault): original brakes, battery, exhaust, pumps/pulleys, etc. I would not call a power steering and water pump "usual" services!

These are very reliable cars in general, but there're always going to be bad examples of every car out there. The power windows and locks are notoriously cheap on Panthers, unfortunately, but like the other reply to your post, if they're ALL bad it's probably due to a central source like the battery (or maybe there's a central power distribution circuit or something?). The plastic intake is lame, but if it hasn't gone bad on you yet I wouldn't worry about it. What else has gone wrong?

Unfortunately, a 13 year old car can end up with all kinds of problems. Also, the "little old lady" isn't really the best type of person to buy a car from, despite the stereotype: such people don't drive often or far, but that alone can be bad for a car; in addition, they often do not maintain their cars mechanically because they don't want to/don't think they need to/don't think of it.

So, sorry to hear you got a bit of a money pit, but overall they're still one of the best cars out there, IMO.

2kredss · December 2009

i have a 97 grand marquis with 76K miles and a possessed electrical system! we got the car in aug 04 with 25K miles and within a year it developed this most unusual problem. what happens is the voltage spikes and drops - sometimes very rapidly - and the lights flicker in concert with the varying voltage. the problem developed slowly. it first started in the fall and would only do it occasionally, a day or 2 at most and then be ok for weeks. it would stop in the late spring, be fine all summer and start up again in the fall. i have tried many things to fix it (i'll list them later) but nothing has any permanence. it is now a daily occurance and the issue has escalated to the point where it now activates the red battery warning light which flashes in time with the oscillating voltmeter. the voltage spike is quite high - approaching 16 volts. in fact sometimes the red batt light issue an audible clicking.
there's a list of what i've done in an attempt to fix the problem:
replaced all fuses, circuit breakers and relays
replaced the starter (thinking the soleniod could be the problem)
replaced the alternator many times (on the 3rd one since april)
added several ground straps
added new wire directly from alternator to battery, removing the existing wire from alternator to starter (i have read the this wire is a fusable link)
replaced sepentine belt ( this made the problem worse)
replaced the battery twice ( just a few days ago - car great great for about 50 miles)
opened and cleaned every connector i can find

cleaning the connectors had the car run good for almost a week. a second cleaning had not effect
i desperation i went to my local mechanic ( i worked for him many years ago). he had the car for a day, told me it was fixed (the stator wire connection) charged me 40 bucks. as soon as i drove away it acted up again. his opinion is to rebuild the alternator though him or "keep going to advance. sooner or later you will get a good one from them"

i had advance check the alternator on the car. voltage high 15's - 75 amps, battery was good but low on charge(this prompted me to replace the battery a week ago)
they replaced the alternator. made no difference in the problem.
i called ford and even discussed the problem with a local ford dealer's service manager but they were of no help. they claim they have never heard of any cars with this problem. i just cannot bring myself to take this to the dealer.

so, can ANYONE out there help me? i am at my wit's end and really dread the thought of turing this over to a dealer.
thanks everyone

monticellorob · February 2010

I just bought a '92 GM with a manufacture date of 11/91 from my neighbor. The car only has 54,000 miles on it. The car shifts fine for gears 1-3 but the overdrive went out in it some time ago. The lady who had it was elderly and literally drove it only one mile each way to church and 3 miles each way to the grocery store. Could the fact that the car never went out on the road periodically for several miles be a contributor to the o/d going out? What are the solutions? Otherwise the car is fine.

euphonium · February 2010

If the transmission never got in O/D, the onboard computer may be stuck. First, I would try disconnecting the Negative terminal of the battery and let it sit disconnected overnight. Before reattaching the cable, clean both terminals and cables. This may reset the computer enabling it to shift into O/D.

Check the volume of oil in the transmission & add if low.

If that doesn't work, change the oil in the transmission and torque converter. It should have been done at 30,000 miles anyway. Good luck.

seer1 · March 2010

I have just had an electric lift installed (2003 Grand Marquis), for purpose of hauling an electic scooter, due to disability. I estimate the additional weight to be less than 400 lbs--maybe considerably less. However, the outfit extends several feet out behind the car, adding to the arm/leverage exerted.The car's ride is now very hard, with rear end sitting very low, and headlights shining higher in the air.

I've read previous posts, but am somewhat confused by the array of terminology that seems to be used interchangeable. Please inform me as to what is available to help counter this situation? If the problem-solver levels the car, will it affect the comfort level of the ride either way?

Please also consider that the load is not on the car on every trip it takes.My wife often drives it, and does not need the scooter.

Thanks for your help.

euphonium · March 2010

If you mean you have installed air shocks powered by an electric motor -

Were they installed on the rear axle? If so, there is usually a "level" sensor that keeps the rear end level with and or without the load of the scooter.

Have your mechanic adjust the Level sensor and if there is an "Off/On" switch, leave it "ON". When always "ON" the compressor may power up the air shocks while the car is just sitting in the garage, but not to worry.

If the car is driven infrequently, an external battery charger may be of value.

kenboy2 · May 2010

I noticed there was a 500 lb drop in towing capacity between 2006 and 2007. I would like to know what changed on these cars to lower the rate or was it just a paper deal. They havent changed much on these cars. I dont think it is engine frame or transmission, I did notice there was a change in rear suspension part numbers between these years. Is that it? Can I do any ad ons to get that 500 lb back?

euphonium · May 2010

It is an increased effort to con us into buying their more profitable trucks. I have been towing a 3,000 lb boat'/trailer for 16 years on a Town Car rated for 1,000#'s. All I did was add a transmission cooler and away we go.

timbuckedtwo · May 2010

I've relaced many a starter motor over the years but the Engineers got me on this car. I've tried everything in my tool box and more to remove one bolt that is near impossible to get at. There doesn't seem to be enough room to get any torque on a box wrench, no room for a ratchet wrench. What's the trick? Is there a special tool? Help!

kenboy2 · May 2010

I am suspecting the same. Mine even has a transmission cooler. I know when they went from leaf to coil there was a big downgrade. I cant see much reference
to changes in th 2007 models. Aftermarket shock kits change between those years. When I was on the farm I pulled 2 loads of hay all day long with a 1958 ford six stick with overdrive. That merc has twice the power and twice the brakes. I was worried the auto trany isnt stout enough, but you have pretty much laid that to rest. Even if they did something to the rear suspension I think the downgrade was on paper

cyberwiz · June 2010

I've been noticing that the ride in my 2000 Grand Marquis seems to be getting increasingly rougher over the last year or so. I bought the 2000 4 years ago with 60,000 kilometers on her. It was a one owner car that still had some warranty left at the time. I couldn't be happier with the car overall and couldn't imagine buying anything else. Steadily though, the sensation in the car when driving over small bumps has become more and more jarring. By comparison my all-original 1981 Parisienne rides much better and more like my Marquis used to. I took the car in to two different garages and both told me that nothing was wrong. I finally took it to a third garage and two different techs agreed that the car rode fine, but didn't ride like a Grand Marquis. The previous owner had installed cheap 3rd party shocks at some point so I had those removed and replaced with OEM shocks (not equipped with air ride). Unfortunately this hasn't resolved my problem.

At one of the garages I went with the mechanic on his test drive and I found that I wasn't able to feel the problem that I was describing while I was in the passenger seat. The car rode almost exactly like one would expect from there.

Has anyone had any seat issues in their CrownVic/Marquis? Or perhaps similar ride quality issues? That's the only thing that I can think of that would cause the ride to feel differently on the drivers side vs on the passenger side. I'm curious to know if I can repair/refurbish my seat or if I'm stuck hunting for a replacement. ...or perhaps if I totally barking up the wrong tree.

jmbicycle · July 2010

How can the industry intelligently decide to stop production of the best full sized sedans ever built, i.e. the Mercury Grand Marquis and the Ford Crown Victoria. Is it only from the pressure of the Obama Administrration and the Environmental groups?

When will business stand up and make their own decisions, like continuing production of the afore mentioned cars? The market will always be there and will continually replenish itself.

Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy