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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    My guess on the Chesapeake package is that it's some sort of local dealer's special package. Dressed up like that, I think they make gorgeous luxury cars at a great price. Most people just think they look gaudy though. Your money, you'll be driving it. If you like it, go for it.
  • aceaceaceace Member Posts: 4
    I would like more information concerning the up coming special edition G/M Marauder. What the scope on this up coming version of the G/M?
  • kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    This question may be a bit too "shadetree" for Edmunds, but since many posters here seem to change shocks, maybe you can help. I have a 93 Grand Marquis which I bought new shocks for. Only problem is in the rear, I can't get to the top nuts. The old and new shocks use a single stud on the top,(like typical front shocks do) although since they are on the rear, that bolt and nut are stuck way up on a frame bracket. I can see the upper nut, but would need a 1/2 inch open wrench about a foot or more in length just to touch it from the wheel well. Can any of you folks who changed their shocks themselves, or watch someone else change them give me an idea of the procedure. I'm perplexed. This is somewhat embarrasing since I worked on stock cars for over 10 years and have done quite a bit of work on other cars, although mostly older. Of course a stock car racing car is easy to work on since everything is easily accessible.
    Thanks in advance...
  • mhliimhlii Member Posts: 22
    Yes... the are REALLY hard. I have done about 6 or 7 of them. The best way that I have found to do them is with the car on a lift, you will need a ratcheting wrench for the top bolt. Sometimes you are able to get them out with just that going up under the frame from the back of the rear, but in most cases I have found that the shaft just turns, so therefore you will prob. also need like a 5/32 wrench (that size is a guess) and have someone hold the top of the shaft w/ that while you ratchet away the bigger bolt. If you look at the top of the shaft, at the very tip, you will see that it is set up for you to put a wrench on there incase the shaft turns w/ the bolt. Anyway you look at it they are hard. There was 1 CV that I tryed everything and I could not get the L/R shock off, and ofcorse the gas lines pass right by the tip of that shock so I couldn't tourch it off. It ended up taking me 2 hrs. and I had to use an air chizzle to get it off. O yeah... like I said while you are doing this keep in mind that the gas and brake lines pass with in inces of the tip of the L/R shock!!
  • swong1swong1 Member Posts: 14
    Ford on their assembly line installs the shocks prior to bolting on the body to the frame hence the problem come time for replacment of the chocks. Some of the repair shops literally drill two large holes in the trunk then plug the holes after replacing the shocks. If you have your heart set on doing it right the only way is to either get the car up in the air or on jacks then do the "million quarter turns" using the half inch open end. Some people have had success turning the body of the shock while another person holds on to the top securing nut. In any event when you replace the worn rears be sure and use a quality replacement shock (bilsteins or gabriel vst truck shocks) since you really don't want to do it a second time! Good luck, you need it , I feel your pain!
  • aceaceaceace Member Posts: 4
    I need some help finding information on the special edition G/M Marauder.

    Does anyone know the scope on this vehicle. Edmunds.com states that this edition is to be available in 2001. Does anyone know the scoop on this claim?

    Ace
  • bobemakk1bobemakk1 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 1999 Crown Victoria LX Sedan new. The ride is different than my 1988 Crown Victoria LX Sedan, it is not as soft, it has more road feel, but I do love the new car. The only problem I have is that the brakes are very squeaky. The car now has approx. 15,000 miles, and the brakes started this at about 8,000. I have brought the car back to two different dealers and they replaced the rear pads (it has 4 wheel disc brakes), but they tell me that this is a common problem. But I want it fixed...their response to me is unsatisfactory. I wrote to Ford and I am awaiting their reply. I feel the car is luxurious and good looking, and the squeaky brakes make it look and sound inferior, hence the old bad reputation Ford did have. I always bought them and have liked them....does anyone out there have the same problem...HELP!!! Please email me at Bobemakk@aol.com with any replies, thanks.....Bob
  • HacksawHacksaw Member Posts: 29
    75,000 miles on my 1998 CV and it just got its first unscheduled repair on Friday: a whopping $200 for a bad multi-function switch on the stalk that controls high beams, washers, turn signals, etc... I'd have to jiggle it sometimes for it to work correctly.

    I have the aftermarket warranty so it didn't cost me a dime, and I probably would have done it myself if it wasn't covered.

    Ford has to do a better job at using quality components. This isn't an uncommon problem and happens on models across the board. Despite the milage, this is a relatively new car and there's no excuse for things like this to be breaking so soon. It's stupid but expensive repairs like this that really turn people off to Ford vehicles, and it shouldn't be. Another example: my sister-in-law had to spend almost $500 to get some ABS sensor/switch replaced on her Windstar with only 40,000 miles on it. Quality is job 1?

    I love my CV and would buy another one. It's been a fantastic car in just about every way. But total reliability (especially pertaining to these nuisance repaiirs) is still a question mark in my mind.
  • occupant1occupant1 Member Posts: 412
    are funny little things. $500 for a replacement is abuout right but you know what, that faulty sensor could start working again the next day. My mom took her 1995 Century into the Buick dealer because her ABS light was on and she showed them the light and they diagnosed it and it had a bad sensor on the LF wheel. She came back and they did a check before disassembly and the sensor was fine. Saved my Mom $460. She now has 142,000 on that car and my Dad has 161,000 on his 1992 Century. Mom may need a head gasket though, you can smell the coolant and see it leaking from the cylinder head but it doesn't get hot at all.
  • kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    Thanks for the advise guys, I think. I'll need to give this some thought now before I start wrestling my GM around the garage. I can't believe they didn't think of anything easier, or haven't changed it by now. I'm using Gabriel VST shock so maybe I won't have to change them for a while if I ever get these on. Will definatley start with the left rear, I see what you mean about the lines running by there.
    Another Ford design story - I had a friend who worked at the transmission plant in Ohio. When they shipped the first prototype Escort to them, they installed the, then newly designed, front transaxle assembly. With everything in place, there was no way to get the oil filter off the car without dropping down the steering gear.
  • lincoln5lincoln5 Member Posts: 40
    I have a 97 GM (40,000 miles) and recently have been experiencing a vibration from time to time at all speeds that feels and sounds like I am going over a washboard road even tho I'm not. It usually only lasts for a few seconds. The road conditions are usually asphalt with a coarse texture. I suspect the shocks. Anyone have any comments.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    Have you changed your transmission fluid lately?Wife person's T Bird had the same vibration and installing Mercon V Semi Synthetic transmission fluid solved the "ripples in the road". I recommend you have the dealer do it as this fluid is rather pricey and they may give it to you at or near their cost which is umpteen $'S a quart. Remember to drain the torque converter housing too. Good Luck
  • lincoln5lincoln5 Member Posts: 40
    Thanks for the response. How did you come up with this fix? Did Ford have a repair bulletin for this problem?

    I am going to watch the problem more closely because I still feel it is related to the suspension in the rear. You don't feel much in the steering wheel and it only seems to occur on certain road surfaces.
  • kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    I chickened out (or was smart) after I saw what needed to be done on the rear ones. I needed a couple of tires anyway, so I got NTB (garage) to replace the rear shocks with the ones I bought for $10.95 labor each. Best $22 I ever spent. They slit the dust cover off the old ones and held the shaft with a vice grip. He then took a long open/box wrench and got to it over the mounting plate, like going from the center of the car outwards towards the tire. Was relatively easy to come off. After nut was loose, he spun the shock to unscrew the rest of the way. Came off pretty easy, but you'd have to be a contortionist, or a plumber, to get up in there like that without a lift.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    "How did you come up with this fix?" I read another post in another topic regarding the "shudder" of the transmission. All of the cases were Ford cars from 95 t0 97 with less than 40,000 miles. It occurred with slight acceleration under 45mph up a slight incline. Find a newly paved, preferably blacktoped road, and test your car on it. If you have 40,000 miles, see if your owners manual recommends the changing of transmission oil at 30,000. Let us know if the oil change works for you. Good Luck.
  • kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    From my experience this is extremely common. Ford had a problems with this for longer than 95-97. My 91 F150 with the, then new, electronic OD transmision had it till Ford changed out the transmision and torque converter at 50K miles. This was before the new transmission fluid came out. I've had it explained to my by a transmission shop that Ford designed the transmissions so they would shift smoother, not engage as rough and that led to the torque converter not locking up all the way. It just goes in and out multiple times. Lockup occurs somewhere around 45-50 mph although the shudder can happen whenever gears change under light load. My 93 GM has had it since it was new. Only fix is to change the trans fluid including the torque converter to the new stuff, and do it every 25000 or so miles. The dealer will also tell you they put some type of suction hose in the transmission to completely drain it but that may be BS. I've had this done 3 times now and about every 25-30K miles is starts shuddering again. I suppose there are parts available to fix it if you go for a trans rebuild but changing the trans fluid is relatively painless and not expensive. It also has the side benefit of prolonging the life of the transmission.
    Its not a problem, it's a feature! Must have been desined by Microsoft.
  • carfreak10carfreak10 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 GM GS with 75K on it and it runs great, but for the last couple of times it was raining or cold and damp. Car keeps stalling on a cold startup and now I know precisely when it occurs...on cold damp days or when it rains. I get around this problem by applying a little extra gas before it sputters out and if I let it run for several minutes it doesn't stall. Not devastating, but annoying to say the least. After driving this cruiser for the last couple years and driving a 2000 Honda V6, man I'll be a GM owner for quite some years to come.

    Any ideas or suggestions appreciated..before I get cleaned out at the mechanics shop

    Susan
  • bdavis8bdavis8 Member Posts: 12
    Susan, I would check to see if your coil or distributor is cracked. This could cause your car to stall on wet or damp days. When your car heats up the cracks can seal up and not cause you any trouble while being hot. But the cracks will open up when cold allowing water to get in.
    Hope this helps
    Brent
    P.S. I would also check out your plug wires.
  • swong1swong1 Member Posts: 14
    Susan! Noticed from your post you have a '96 which does not have a distributor. The wires however can be a culprit. As a quick check open up your engine hood with the car running and if the wires are in real bad shape you can visually see arcing and corona from the wires. To help determine if the wires are marginal garages mist the wires with water and if they are bad you will see the arcing which means you've found your problem. Because your vehicle has the 4.6L sohc with dual coils the wires are double firing, i.e., up the combustion as well as the exhaust cycle which by design puts twice the wear on the wires. If you already have 60k on the wires I would swap them out as they are already beyond their useful life.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Be forewarned, though. Wires for a 4.6l are EXPENSIVE! My Grand Marquis has the old 400M engine in it, and plug wires for that car were about 20 bucks. When my 95 T-Bird needed wires, I was expecting more of the same thing. Instead the cheapest quote I found was for $80. EIGHTY DOLLARS! They did have a lifetime guarantee, which I'm almost certain is a marketing ploy, but I saved my receipt, and if those wires ever go out again, even after I put 600K miles on them, the local auto parts store will buy me a new set ;-)
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Member Posts: 202
    Lincoln5, Kinley and Kingfishgus I have a 2000 GM with 25,000 miles and notice the washboard vibration. I notice the vibration at slow speeds (15-25 mph) when I am accelerating usually uphill after a slowdown from making a turn. The vibration does not happen often, but I do notice the vibration occasionally. I am going to get my transmission oil changed at 30,000, hopefully this will help. I used to own a 95 GM and experienced a shudder at 45-50 mph during transmission shift. Changing the transmission oil never helped my 95 GM shudder. I view this as a minor annoyance although I wish Ford would come up with a solution. I have owned General Motors cars which had for lack of a better word, a gap in the transmission. Maybe all transmissions have an oddity about them.
  • weltronweltron Member Posts: 11
    Make sure you have a complete flush and refill including the torque converter. If the car is starting to shudder I would not wait another 5 thousand miles. This is a sign the fluid is shot.
  • evilpancakewomevilpancakewom Member Posts: 35
    About those wires. That is not to bad considering my old 1989 Volvo 760 wires cost $260!!! I will never get a European car again. There parts are about the same as domestic(in reliability) and to repair the same parts cost double the price as the car does. As for Japanese cars there all front wheel drive which I hate and front wheel drive cars have more problems then rear wheel and they worse handling except in rain.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    I'll agree with all of that except that FWD has more problems. I think they've rfined it to the point where it's about dead even. That said, I'd take rear wheel drive any day of the week!
  • allterrainallterrain Member Posts: 8
    rea98d, you mentioned $80 was the cheapest price you found for plugs. I recently had my "92 gm's plugs replaced, the plugs were $132.54, labor 74.35 tax, environmental crap and all was $224.61. OUCH!!!!.........for plugs? I used to put plug wires on my 69 chevelle for $25! Now, I have a ? My gm has 94k, is it about time to replace the shocks? If so, what brand and models would be recommended?
  • bdavis8bdavis8 Member Posts: 12
    I had a 99 cv lx with the air ride system and the car stayed level when the car was parked. I now have a 2000 cv lx and the air ride leaks off as soon as you turn off the ignition, causing the car to look like its loaded down. I have also watched the level ride come on and level the car when the car was just sitting in the driveway locked up. Then drops down again. My 99 never did this. The dealer says this is common, I don't think believe this. Does anyone have the same problem? What was done to correct this problem? This is driving me nuts!! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    "The dealer says this is common"

    It may be "common", but it doesn't sound right to me. Maybe it's a common *problem*. I think your air bladders or hoses have a leak and the dealer doesn't want to address it. It must be under warranty which would explain why he doesn't want you to think it's a problem. In any case, any time the dealership says "they all do that" it is a simple procedure to prove them wrong. They have a lot full of new cars that can be easily examined. Park your car next to one of the new ones and let your's sink down, demonstrating the difference. Ask the employee to duplicate that with the new car. If they still aren't cooperative, ask them to put you in touch with the Zone Manager.
  • iusecadiusecad Member Posts: 287
    but, did any of you here own an 88 thru 91 Vic or Marquis (the last years of the 5.0L), and then go into the current model style, 98+ ? The only reason I ask is because I feel my '90 Vic is built a little more solid than these new ones. Just little things like when you shut the door it feels a little more substantial... It just seems (to me) that there appear to be quite a few 'glitches'; just from reading some of the posts here... I guess I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed something similar...

    I'm not saying the new ones are bad.

    also if anyone has a thesaurus, what's another word for 'just' ? %)
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Also?

    FWIW, I think the newer Grand Marquis are trying to cut back on weight to up gas mileage. (When you buy a full size V-8 sedan, I don't think gas mileage is your main concern, though). My 1978 Grand Marquis is much heavier and much more solidly built than the new ones. Of course, it does have the 170 hp 400 cubic inch V-8 that drinks a gallon in 12 miles as well, so there is something to say for the new ones ;-)

    (Just, er I mean, Also Kidding. The new ones are truely gorgeous cars)
  • lincoln5lincoln5 Member Posts: 40
    and the 5.0L engine was a gem. It was smooth as glass with lots of zip and very good gas mileage. Our 96 isn't the same car even tho it looks a lot better and the leather seats are very nice.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    Regarding 12 mpg: If you locate a 20 second delay valve in the air hose running between the vacuum advance and the carb port - remove it by installing a new hose between the two. Next, twin out the exhaust and after that turn the air cleaner cover upside down and reattach it enabling more air to be inhaled, but not in dusty areas. The above worked for me when the 400 was a bow wow. Went from 12 to 17 mpg. Air up the tires to 35 psi helps as well. Good Luck
  • aceaceaceace Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know if the marauder concept car is going to go to market production or will it stay a concept?
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Thanks Kinley, I'll have to try that sometime. I could go on an on about low compression ratios, wimpy cams, stone age ignition, tiny 2 barrel carb, poor head design...But if the time & money ever present themselves, I'll do a lot to wake the sleeping giant up.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    I second your question. When questioning the local dealer about the Marauder, he gives me a blank expression and shrugs his shoulders.
  • iusecadiusecad Member Posts: 287
    I agree the new ones are gorgeous. I never thought of the weight reduction thing. But I think they should have kept the chrome bumpers.

    My 5.0L has been perfect up until 'bout 5k miles ago; but now it insists on hemoraging oil. :(

    Hey, when you go to the dealer and ask about the Marauder, are you asking a salesperson, or on of the top guys? I think the salespeople don't find out about anything until they've had the opportunity to beat it 'round the parking lot.

    Or maybe Mercury is holding out until the new body comes out?
  • cowdogkcowdogk Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 92 CV police car, (78k mi.)and after having some work done to it, it runs great.
    I will be driving to Florida, (from NY) and would like to install cruise control in it.

    1. Should I buy Aftermarket or Stock from a junkyard? Which brand would be good?

    2. Does the computer in an Interceptor accept Cruise?

    Lastly - I really Really REALLY like this car.
  • benhoppbenhopp Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how to remove the factory stereo from a '92 Crown Vic. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    If it's anything like the stereo in my T-Bird it will have four small, square holes, one near each corner. Now here comes the bad news-there is a special tool made for no other reason than to stick in those holes and pull the stereo out. Your local ford dealer should have the tool, no idea how much it costs. FWIW, when I first got my car, I thought there was a trim piece missing that was supposed to cover the holes, but it was a used car and in a lot nicer shape than my Grand Marquis, so I was willing to overlook it.
  • anonymousanonymous Member Posts: 314
    Yea there is the four holes, I will go look into getting the tool. Thanks for the help.
  • aquanomicsaquanomics Member Posts: 7
    you can get a (DIN?) removal tool practically anywhere for CHEAP. Crutchfield will give you one if you buy a new head unit from them (I was shopping for a new one when I bought my CV). Slide the tool in, pull the had unit out. Simple.

    New question. Anybody know of a source of sources for CV/GM custom accessories, especially wheels and tire? Has anyone installed Bilstein HD shocks on a plain vanilla (no handling) CV? How were the ride and handling changed? Who makes alloy wheels that will endure 20,000+ miles a year of rugged (not potholed) roads? Trans coolers? I drive across the Mojave desert all summer long.

    I'm either going to modify my CV or wait for the Blackhawk edition. Cost is a definite concern. Your inputs will be appreciated.

    Phil
  • rppoperppope Member Posts: 1
    You can buy new P71 crown vics. There is a ford dealer in Maryland called Crystal Ford Isuzu At any one time they have one or two new police interceptors for sale. The average number of miles on the cars is around 50. The cars where rejected for any number of reasons by a law enforcement agency and is sold at auction. Technically they are used and used car interest rates will apply when buying.
  • jcooney3jcooney3 Member Posts: 7
    Have a 98 GM/GS. No handling package. Rides rough over bumps front has "rocking" motion turning into driveways. Feels like 60lbs of air in tires which have 30-32lbs actually. Help!!!
  • bdavis8bdavis8 Member Posts: 12
    Sounds to me like your fronts shocks need replaced.
  • stanlocusstanlocus Member Posts: 4
    I don't know why a good ride is claimed for my 99 Grand Marquis LS. You feel every bump, manhole cover and washboard roads here in Los Angeles. I bought the car for a smooth ride, being an old guy and wanting comfort. I didn't get it. I took the car to my experienced mechanic. He took it for a ride and said it had a "stiff" suspension. I had him replace the factory shocks with the softer Monroe Sensitrack shocks. I found that the bumps were smoothed out some, and thought that I had improved matters. BUT I rode in the back seat. Almost got seasick from the up/down motion with the new shocks. It seems that there is a tradeoff between reduced bump response and the rocking and that the softer shock is not the answer.
    I had a 98 Grand Marquis that was totaled out in an accident, being replaced by my current 99. To the best of my knowledge the 98 had a better ride. The only difference was that the 98 had the handling package and Goodyear tires rather than Michelin.
    I would like to hear from anyone who also is very disappointed in the ride of the Grand Marquis regardless of the reviews which claim it has a good ride.
  • jcooney3jcooney3 Member Posts: 7
    As you can see (609)I have 98 GM with same problem. Checked with other owners-No problem. # mercury dealers say GM's ride hard.Thought I was nuts till I saw your letter. Sensitrack shocks was not answer. I think Michelin Symetry tires are good part of problem however Michelin says no. Moved air pressure above and below 32 PSI-N.G. Different times over same roads get different rides. Blood Pressure 165/90 and rising.....
  • stanlocusstanlocus Member Posts: 4
    Hi J: I put the factory shocks back on my 99 GM and the rocking problem stopped. You can't put soft shocks on that car. BUT, I dumped the Michelin tires for Goodyear Regatta2. My previous 98 GM came with Goodyear tires, and as I said it had a better ride. The ride has improved considerably, and that's that. Don't let anyone tell you that the Michelin tires give the GM a good ride.
  • jcooney3jcooney3 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info on the tires. Amazing how nobody from Mercury or Michelin heard of this problem, just you and me. Did the tires solve the "harsh: ride?
  • jcooney3jcooney3 Member Posts: 7
    Can you E-MAIL me JCPOPPO@AOL.COM----THX
  • mhliimhlii Member Posts: 22
    You said that your 98 had the P/H package. Do remember that the P/H package has Air Springs in the back for Suspention, while the others have Coil Springs. You will have to keep this in mind if you buy another one, because Air Springs and Coil Springs give two totally different rides!!!
  • stanlocusstanlocus Member Posts: 4
    In regard to #614, I have been told from Mercury folks (sales types) that the ride with the special handling package with the rear air suspension is stiffer than the standard suspension, so that I assumed that it would produce a harsher ride than the standard. All this info could be wrong of course.
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