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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis



  • My 95 CV LX has them, I don't know if they are standard or not.
  • golfnut5, johnbono,
    Thanks for the reply. Yes, they were available at one time but are not now.

    I think the climate you live in proves whether they are useful or not. Here in NJ, we get a good ice storm once or twice a year, and a couple of good snow falls too. When this occurs, the heated mirrors can be as important as the rear defroster. Granted, this is the exception, not the rule, but it doesn't seem like a lot to ask for in a car like this.

  • Take a look on the mirror itself. On my mom's '00 taurus there is a defroster-type ideogram on it. On my '95 it says "heated" on the mirror. I don't think ford dropped heated mirrors, it may be that all the CV/GMs out there have one.
  • swong1swong1 Posts: 14
    disagree with you johnbono! If you look at the late model cv's they has ducting (you can see the black donut whever you opened the driver side door routing warm air over to the door itself) which was the medium which warm air was directed over the the side mirrors. They did away with it starting in the '98 model year. I know this for a fact since I had to replace both side mirros when my car got vandalized necessitating replacing both of the side mirror asemblies. BTW, the r/r of the side mirror assembly is a no r/r time is 20 minutes!
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    'Scuse me for asking a dumb question, but please un-abbreviate r/r for me. Thanks
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Posts: 202
    Swong1, there are no donut rings on my 2000 GM and no heated mirrors of any form.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    r/r is short for remove/replace, a mechanic's term used to price labor. Yeah, replace the mirror, as opposed to leave it hanging off the door frame like some ignoramuses here in Dallas.

    Wonder if Crown Vic LX models had heated mirrors. Would GM LS or CV LX heated mirrors fit a 98-up model? You could wire it up through the defroster button. Hmm...
  • leepedleeped Posts: 2
    Was out shopping today and saw a GM "Chesapeake" Series. It has all leather interior with part vinyl top with 20K mi for $13,888. Does anybody know whether the Chesapeake is an LS or GS? Actually I had only been considering a Camry or Altima up till now but I sure liked the ride in the GM. Any info on the Chesapeake or opinions about the GM vs Camry or Altima would be appreciated. I have read about all these vehicles in Edmunds and other sites but would like some more opinions.
  • leepedleeped Posts: 2
    Sorry, the GM I saw was a 97. Also, any opinions on the asking price?
  • I've just gotten new info. It seems that the 2002 model GM WILL have heated mirrors. I guess someones listening.
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    My guess on the Chesapeake package is that it's some sort of local dealer's special package. Dressed up like that, I think they make gorgeous luxury cars at a great price. Most people just think they look gaudy though. Your money, you'll be driving it. If you like it, go for it.
  • I would like more information concerning the up coming special edition G/M Marauder. What the scope on this up coming version of the G/M?
  • This question may be a bit too "shadetree" for Edmunds, but since many posters here seem to change shocks, maybe you can help. I have a 93 Grand Marquis which I bought new shocks for. Only problem is in the rear, I can't get to the top nuts. The old and new shocks use a single stud on the top,(like typical front shocks do) although since they are on the rear, that bolt and nut are stuck way up on a frame bracket. I can see the upper nut, but would need a 1/2 inch open wrench about a foot or more in length just to touch it from the wheel well. Can any of you folks who changed their shocks themselves, or watch someone else change them give me an idea of the procedure. I'm perplexed. This is somewhat embarrasing since I worked on stock cars for over 10 years and have done quite a bit of work on other cars, although mostly older. Of course a stock car racing car is easy to work on since everything is easily accessible.
    Thanks in advance...
  • mhliimhlii Posts: 22
    Yes... the are REALLY hard. I have done about 6 or 7 of them. The best way that I have found to do them is with the car on a lift, you will need a ratcheting wrench for the top bolt. Sometimes you are able to get them out with just that going up under the frame from the back of the rear, but in most cases I have found that the shaft just turns, so therefore you will prob. also need like a 5/32 wrench (that size is a guess) and have someone hold the top of the shaft w/ that while you ratchet away the bigger bolt. If you look at the top of the shaft, at the very tip, you will see that it is set up for you to put a wrench on there incase the shaft turns w/ the bolt. Anyway you look at it they are hard. There was 1 CV that I tryed everything and I could not get the L/R shock off, and ofcorse the gas lines pass right by the tip of that shock so I couldn't tourch it off. It ended up taking me 2 hrs. and I had to use an air chizzle to get it off. O yeah... like I said while you are doing this keep in mind that the gas and brake lines pass with in inces of the tip of the L/R shock!!
  • swong1swong1 Posts: 14
    Ford on their assembly line installs the shocks prior to bolting on the body to the frame hence the problem come time for replacment of the chocks. Some of the repair shops literally drill two large holes in the trunk then plug the holes after replacing the shocks. If you have your heart set on doing it right the only way is to either get the car up in the air or on jacks then do the "million quarter turns" using the half inch open end. Some people have had success turning the body of the shock while another person holds on to the top securing nut. In any event when you replace the worn rears be sure and use a quality replacement shock (bilsteins or gabriel vst truck shocks) since you really don't want to do it a second time! Good luck, you need it , I feel your pain!
  • I need some help finding information on the special edition G/M Marauder.

    Does anyone know the scope on this vehicle. states that this edition is to be available in 2001. Does anyone know the scoop on this claim?

  • I bought my 1999 Crown Victoria LX Sedan new. The ride is different than my 1988 Crown Victoria LX Sedan, it is not as soft, it has more road feel, but I do love the new car. The only problem I have is that the brakes are very squeaky. The car now has approx. 15,000 miles, and the brakes started this at about 8,000. I have brought the car back to two different dealers and they replaced the rear pads (it has 4 wheel disc brakes), but they tell me that this is a common problem. But I want it fixed...their response to me is unsatisfactory. I wrote to Ford and I am awaiting their reply. I feel the car is luxurious and good looking, and the squeaky brakes make it look and sound inferior, hence the old bad reputation Ford did have. I always bought them and have liked them....does anyone out there have the same problem...HELP!!! Please email me at with any replies, thanks.....Bob
  • 75,000 miles on my 1998 CV and it just got its first unscheduled repair on Friday: a whopping $200 for a bad multi-function switch on the stalk that controls high beams, washers, turn signals, etc... I'd have to jiggle it sometimes for it to work correctly.

    I have the aftermarket warranty so it didn't cost me a dime, and I probably would have done it myself if it wasn't covered.

    Ford has to do a better job at using quality components. This isn't an uncommon problem and happens on models across the board. Despite the milage, this is a relatively new car and there's no excuse for things like this to be breaking so soon. It's stupid but expensive repairs like this that really turn people off to Ford vehicles, and it shouldn't be. Another example: my sister-in-law had to spend almost $500 to get some ABS sensor/switch replaced on her Windstar with only 40,000 miles on it. Quality is job 1?

    I love my CV and would buy another one. It's been a fantastic car in just about every way. But total reliability (especially pertaining to these nuisance repaiirs) is still a question mark in my mind.
  • are funny little things. $500 for a replacement is abuout right but you know what, that faulty sensor could start working again the next day. My mom took her 1995 Century into the Buick dealer because her ABS light was on and she showed them the light and they diagnosed it and it had a bad sensor on the LF wheel. She came back and they did a check before disassembly and the sensor was fine. Saved my Mom $460. She now has 142,000 on that car and my Dad has 161,000 on his 1992 Century. Mom may need a head gasket though, you can smell the coolant and see it leaking from the cylinder head but it doesn't get hot at all.
  • Thanks for the advise guys, I think. I'll need to give this some thought now before I start wrestling my GM around the garage. I can't believe they didn't think of anything easier, or haven't changed it by now. I'm using Gabriel VST shock so maybe I won't have to change them for a while if I ever get these on. Will definatley start with the left rear, I see what you mean about the lines running by there.
    Another Ford design story - I had a friend who worked at the transmission plant in Ohio. When they shipped the first prototype Escort to them, they installed the, then newly designed, front transaxle assembly. With everything in place, there was no way to get the oil filter off the car without dropping down the steering gear.
  • I have a 97 GM (40,000 miles) and recently have been experiencing a vibration from time to time at all speeds that feels and sounds like I am going over a washboard road even tho I'm not. It usually only lasts for a few seconds. The road conditions are usually asphalt with a coarse texture. I suspect the shocks. Anyone have any comments.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    Have you changed your transmission fluid lately?Wife person's T Bird had the same vibration and installing Mercon V Semi Synthetic transmission fluid solved the "ripples in the road". I recommend you have the dealer do it as this fluid is rather pricey and they may give it to you at or near their cost which is umpteen $'S a quart. Remember to drain the torque converter housing too. Good Luck
  • Thanks for the response. How did you come up with this fix? Did Ford have a repair bulletin for this problem?

    I am going to watch the problem more closely because I still feel it is related to the suspension in the rear. You don't feel much in the steering wheel and it only seems to occur on certain road surfaces.
  • I chickened out (or was smart) after I saw what needed to be done on the rear ones. I needed a couple of tires anyway, so I got NTB (garage) to replace the rear shocks with the ones I bought for $10.95 labor each. Best $22 I ever spent. They slit the dust cover off the old ones and held the shaft with a vice grip. He then took a long open/box wrench and got to it over the mounting plate, like going from the center of the car outwards towards the tire. Was relatively easy to come off. After nut was loose, he spun the shock to unscrew the rest of the way. Came off pretty easy, but you'd have to be a contortionist, or a plumber, to get up in there like that without a lift.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    "How did you come up with this fix?" I read another post in another topic regarding the "shudder" of the transmission. All of the cases were Ford cars from 95 t0 97 with less than 40,000 miles. It occurred with slight acceleration under 45mph up a slight incline. Find a newly paved, preferably blacktoped road, and test your car on it. If you have 40,000 miles, see if your owners manual recommends the changing of transmission oil at 30,000. Let us know if the oil change works for you. Good Luck.
  • From my experience this is extremely common. Ford had a problems with this for longer than 95-97. My 91 F150 with the, then new, electronic OD transmision had it till Ford changed out the transmision and torque converter at 50K miles. This was before the new transmission fluid came out. I've had it explained to my by a transmission shop that Ford designed the transmissions so they would shift smoother, not engage as rough and that led to the torque converter not locking up all the way. It just goes in and out multiple times. Lockup occurs somewhere around 45-50 mph although the shudder can happen whenever gears change under light load. My 93 GM has had it since it was new. Only fix is to change the trans fluid including the torque converter to the new stuff, and do it every 25000 or so miles. The dealer will also tell you they put some type of suction hose in the transmission to completely drain it but that may be BS. I've had this done 3 times now and about every 25-30K miles is starts shuddering again. I suppose there are parts available to fix it if you go for a trans rebuild but changing the trans fluid is relatively painless and not expensive. It also has the side benefit of prolonging the life of the transmission.
    Its not a problem, it's a feature! Must have been desined by Microsoft.
  • I have a 96 GM GS with 75K on it and it runs great, but for the last couple of times it was raining or cold and damp. Car keeps stalling on a cold startup and now I know precisely when it occurs...on cold damp days or when it rains. I get around this problem by applying a little extra gas before it sputters out and if I let it run for several minutes it doesn't stall. Not devastating, but annoying to say the least. After driving this cruiser for the last couple years and driving a 2000 Honda V6, man I'll be a GM owner for quite some years to come.

    Any ideas or suggestions appreciated..before I get cleaned out at the mechanics shop

  • Susan, I would check to see if your coil or distributor is cracked. This could cause your car to stall on wet or damp days. When your car heats up the cracks can seal up and not cause you any trouble while being hot. But the cracks will open up when cold allowing water to get in.
    Hope this helps
    P.S. I would also check out your plug wires.
  • swong1swong1 Posts: 14
    Susan! Noticed from your post you have a '96 which does not have a distributor. The wires however can be a culprit. As a quick check open up your engine hood with the car running and if the wires are in real bad shape you can visually see arcing and corona from the wires. To help determine if the wires are marginal garages mist the wires with water and if they are bad you will see the arcing which means you've found your problem. Because your vehicle has the 4.6L sohc with dual coils the wires are double firing, i.e., up the combustion as well as the exhaust cycle which by design puts twice the wear on the wires. If you already have 60k on the wires I would swap them out as they are already beyond their useful life.
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    Be forewarned, though. Wires for a 4.6l are EXPENSIVE! My Grand Marquis has the old 400M engine in it, and plug wires for that car were about 20 bucks. When my 95 T-Bird needed wires, I was expecting more of the same thing. Instead the cheapest quote I found was for $80. EIGHTY DOLLARS! They did have a lifetime guarantee, which I'm almost certain is a marketing ploy, but I saved my receipt, and if those wires ever go out again, even after I put 600K miles on them, the local auto parts store will buy me a new set ;-)
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