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Dunno
No
I think someone did have the power answers a while ago. Sorry I couldn't provide more info. However, you might want to read the Radio FAQ on the How-To page for more info.
www.ImpalaHQ.com
I just bought a 2000 LS with 37000 miles. It has the standard problems: warp routers, etc. However, I have encounter one usual problem that I hoping someone else might have seen.
If I'm playing a CD on the stock system, each time I hit the break the volume goes down and each when I accelerate the volume goes up.
Talk about weird. Any help would be great.
Thanks!
BH
Select off for no vehicle noise volume compensation.
There was one minor installation-related hiccup, having to do with power. Since the Impala does NOT power down all of the radio gear until you open the door, I had to decide whether the XM reciever would be likewise powered after key removal but before I open the door. If I wanted the reciever to continue to operate after key removal, I would've had to use the aux power tap (behind the glove box), but I want to save that in case I decide to install a CD Changer. So instead, we used a line that powers down with the key. Net result, when I get out of the car, XM will shut off but the radio keeps going.
I may rethink my decision later and re-wire power via the aux tap.
You could just tap into the rear speaker wires and feed that into a speaker level sub amp input.
Anyway, data enabled stations can send out a time signal. If you happen to be on such a station, hold the HR and MIN buttons together for a few seconds and it'll set your time to be the same as the station's signal. If the radio station isn't sending out a signal, it'll say "NO UPDATE" on the display for a few seconds and then go back to normal.
Is it relatively easy to do cause I have no idea? I was quoted a price from a sound shop of $350 for the amp, sub, and install. Good price or do they have no idea what they are in for?
Or am I better of just taking out the GM installed AMP and putting in a better one with two new rear speakers? I'm kinda leaning towards this now if it can be done without too much trouble. What do you guys think?
none of the install from the orginal amp to the new amp was ez but it was simple to replace all the speakers while i had the rear deck out
I heard that Sony speakers are not that good and a friend of mine swears by Boston Acoustics. I have a Polk Audio home theater speaker system and they sound great. I would probably get Polk speakers just because I am so happy with the home theater ones.
Changing the amp is always good, but there are a lot of things to consider. Line level-speaker level switching by the factory head unit, new power line, ACC power, etc.
Head unit change out is even more problematic. Do you want to relocate the head unit? ACC source...
Here is my question. I realize that 2 way speakers are better than one full range, but for an automotive application where you are using the stock unit and maybe a better amp, is it really worth getting a 3 way (or even a 4 way)? Because I want to keep stock appearance, I do not want to go with separates.
http://www.bsless.com/6987.html
Does anybody have a speaker install procedure for the rear? I'd like to know what I'm doing before I order (although I'm sure it's pretty simple).
some other Cheeper Brands that a descent Quality you might want to look at is
Infinty, Poineer, Polk audio You can get a good set of 6x9s 3way for around ~100 - 200
check out www.Crutchfield.com
Anybody have a rear speaker install procedure? Thanks for helping!
http://www.impalahq.com/
Merry Christmas everyone!
I have never heard they before so I cant say from experiance.
Of course, getting the dashboard off is neither easy nor simple, but once you've got it off, then you can do the whole thing easily enough. Forget about trying to access the radio from underneath by taking the center console apart. Not going to happen. Just take the dash off and pull the radio out, first thing. The wire can be run around the passenger side easily, just pull the door molding off (it clips on all around) and shove the wire under the carpet. When you get to the back seat, you'll find that it's possible to shove the wire around and get it to come up in the same place that the seatbelt does from the carpet. Tight fit though, would be much easier to take out the back seat, but if you don't want that much effort, you can do it. Then you can drop it behind the seat by removing two bolts from the top of the seat. After that, run it behind the carpet in the trunk and then up to the spot you're putting the changer. There's also a very convienent hollow bump running along the roof of the trunk that you can run the wiring through to connect to the changer and remain hidden, even if you want to put it on the driver's side.
A three point mount is about the best you can do on the trunk roof. Forget bolting, anywhere that you have a flush mount point, use a self tapping sheet metal screw. Get the good ones. Drill the smallest hole you can for a pilot, then put that self tapping sucker in there and drill it in place. It won't ever come loose by itself. Problem solved, especially since bolting that would be a real pain. But for the other distance mounts, buy some two inch bolts and nuts and a bunch of washers. Also, some rubber washers or gromits to give the thing a bit of give wouldn't be out of line.
Anyway, works great. Just some tips from me.
They sound ok, but I'd like a little more bass. Their highs are pretty good, but they don't have as much bass as the factory speakers in my opinion (maybe they aren't being pushed enough?). What should I do? I have adjusted the bass/treble.. but it's hard because if I turn the bass up all the way the front speakers have too much bass. If I turn it down, the rears don't have enough. Do I need a sub or amp? Is there some simple solution (like maybe putting a box around the rear speakers in the trunk)? I don't know anything about audio systems, so please help. I listen to rock music with driving guitar and good solos. Thanks!!
You probably won't want to do this now but I talked to an audio installer and he said that the best and least expensive way to get more out of the stock system is to add an amp and a sub. Then you turn the bass down on the system so that your bass comes from the sub while the stock speakers just handle the highs. That is what I might do with my system.
The thing about most car radios is that they have two power wires, one is always on, one is controlled by the key. The Impala radio though only has one always on power line, and it gets turned on or off by a command over the class 2 serial bus. So if the power line somehow hooked to the key instead of being always on, then yeah, it will shut off and lose time when you shut off the car.
Easy way to tell: when you turn off the car, the radio should stay on until you open the car door. That triggers the off command. If you turn off the car and the radio cuts out, then it's wired wrong.
The 6x9's will be replaced eventually. The 2003's split folding rear seats should make access to the rear speakers easier.
HA! Should be that way huh? It's actually a huge ordeal... go to www.impalahq.com to learn how huge..
Thanks
Quote - "Actually, if he tapped directly from the factory amp input and left the amp plugged in, I think he could have left out the converters."
Quote - "If you have the factory trunk amp, you can tap into that amp's "enable" line. It should be the white wire in that harness"
I didn't replace the speakers. I just wrote up how to do it.
In a standard system (not the Impala) the head unit sends speaker level (amplified) audio signal to the speakers. If you install an amp, normally you want the head unit to send a line level (unamplified) input to the amp and have the amp send speaker level output to the speakers. If your head unit does not have line level output, then you need to install a converter that changes speaker level to line level.
The Impala radio is a bit tricky. The head unit knows when a factory external amp in connected. If an amp exists, it sends line level signals to the amp. If an amp does not exist, the head unit uses it's internal amp to boost the signal to speaker level. So if you leave the factory amp connected, the head unit will send line level and you can tap into the factory amp inputs for your aftermarket amp. If you remove the factory amp, the head unit will send speaker level to the back and you will have to use converts or have an amp that can handle speaker level inputs.
Clayton ran into this problem when he left the factory amp in place then tapped line level converters into the factory amp input. So the head unit was sending line level to the factory amp, then the converters would drop the line level to sub-line level and the new amp didn't see any signal at all.
I talked to a radio installer and he also said that the audio input line into the factory amp can be tapped into for a new amp but you have to leave the factory amp in place.
You have to run power from the battery to the new amp.
It doesn't sound too bad but this guy actually quoted me a price of $540 for a Poineer amp and one Sony 12" sub with installation. What a rip off.