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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    When you pull the wheel off you will see the retainer attached to the base of one of the lug studs. It almost looks like a "Lock Washer" only in reverse with the serrated edge on the inner diameter instead of the outer diameter. If the central section of your rotors (called the hat) has a light surface layer of rust, the retaining ring/clip (I'm still not sure what to call it) might be a little difficult to see in dim light. Fear not, tomorrow when you open it up and take a look in the daylight, it will be there. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    There are excellent Mopar sites for the do-it-your-self, but this site won't allow any references to them :(
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    I took another look this morning, and I can't find any type of retaining washer around any of the lugs. I bought the van used, so I'm assuming the rotors must have been turned at some point, and this might be why the retainer is gone. I have soaked it overnight in liquid wrench, tried pulling, prying & beating it and it still won't budge. Just to be sure, I'm not supposed to remove the center nut, correct? I have to put it back together as my wife can't be without her van today, but if you have any other suggestions, I'd be very grateful.
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    The only site I found was called Allpar, but it didn't have much in the way of brakes except for a basic pad swap. If you know of any others, feel free to drop me a PM.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, I'm at a bit of a loss. Assuming that the retaining washer is removed, those suckers should almost literally fall off. If you are planning on replacing your rotors with new ones, you might want to take a small hand mallet, two pounds should do it, and hit the back side of the rotor a few times.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Glad to report I finally got the old rotors to come off. I picked up some different penetrating spray, called Deep Creep.. sprayed both sides liberally, waited a few minutes, then since the old rotors were going anyways, hit it with a small sledge hammer. It started to pop off & a couple more taps did the trick. Passenger side was much easier, not rusted quite as much. I live in NE Ohio & we get lots of salt on the roads in the winter, so I'm assuming that was the cause. Thanks alot for the help.. I really appreciate it - Jason
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Yes! Congratulations! Ya done it. :shades:

    "I live in NE Ohio & we get lots of salt on the roads in the winter, so I'm assuming that was the cause."

    Hmmm, our 2003 GC has spent almost its entire life shuttling between southern New Hampshire and the north side of Boston. While our town hardly uses any salt at all, once on the freeway it's "Salt City" all of the way to Mrs. Shipo's office. Could it be that Ohio uses even more salt that Massachusetts? Yikes!

    Well, the good news is that the hard part is done and mounting the new parts is a piece of cake from here. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    The new pads & rotor went on in no time.. our city & state crews use a bunch of salt pretty much everywhere around here. My street is a 2 block long dead end and the salt truck usually hits it every decent snow. I try to use the laser-type no touch car wash in the winter that sprays the chassis too but the last 2 winters, esp. this past one were horrible. Just wondering, did you change out your rear brakes too? Mine seem to generate an awful lot of brake dust. I haven't pulled the wheels to check them but I probably should. Thanks again for the help - Jason
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I haven't even bothered to look back there. If I'm not mistaken, the 2003 has wear sensors, and since rear brakes on FWD vehicles wear WAY slower than say the rear brakes on my 530i (due to the near 50/50 weight distribution as opposed to the front end weight bias of our GCs). As such, I'll just wait until said wear sensors start sounding before I bother with them. FWIW, I finally had to replace the original rear drum brakes on our 1998 GC Sport last week after nearly 90,000 miles. Why? Not because the pads needed it (close but not just yet), but because the end caps on the brake cylinders back there were dry and cracked and on the verge of leaking. Since new cylinders were only like $25, I simply replaced them instead of wasting the time doing an overhauling (assuming that I could even find my brake cylinder honing device, something I haven't used since the late 1970).

    As for dust, I used the NAPA United Brake Parts - AE Metallic pads on the front, and they are now generating less dust than the OEM rear pads. When the time comes, I'll use the AE Metallic pads on the rear as well.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    I pretty much felt the same way regarding the rear brakes. I wanted to use ceramic pads on the front but they weren't available for my application. These generate almost no dust and don't squeak. My next project is to replace the transmission fluid / filter. The service mgr. at my Dodge dealer tells me I need to use RTV sealant instead of a replaceable gasket. Plus AFAIK the only place to buy Chrysler ATF+4 is the Dodge dealer. Have you tackled this one yet?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    "Have you tackled this one yet?"

    Nope. The transmission is one of the very few things that I let the dealership do. My days of messing around with automatic transmissions are over (never liked that nasty red stuff anyway, doesn't smell like real gear lube to me). That said, my 11 year old son is prodding me to do a project car. The current pie-in-the-sky idea is to get a reasonably straight second generation (1967 to 1969) manual transmission Barracuda fastback and restore it using one of the new Hemi engines, possibly with a newer generation 5 or 6-Speed manual gearbox.

    Assuming that project (or something like it) ever sees the light of day, he wants us to make a pilgrimage with it to Royal Oak, Michigan, so that we can drive it in the "Dream Cruise". :shades:

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • selena760selena760 Posts: 1
    Hello, My disc changer stopped working with my discs still in the changer
    the changer is seperate from the radio. the lights just blink back and forth. It won't take a cd in or spit one out. I am looking for a reset button or something like that. Please help me with this =-) :cry:
  • noodle1noodle1 Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 1994 Plymouth Voyager and the driver side rocker panel has a large rust hole in it. I assume it has been from the salt over the years. Could somebody give me some ideas as to fixing this problem? Do I need to replace the whole rocker or just patch it with something?

    Cheers
  • andee1andee1 Posts: 2
    I guess no one has ever heard of a problem with the door panel having a crack in it, on both the front passenger side and the drivers door of a 99 Grand Voyager. It I put any pressure on the arm rest you can see/hear the panel move. I imagine the price to replace the inner door panel is quite expensive. Has anyone else had a problem with this. The crack(s) are up next to the lock button, but near where the cloth panel meets the vinyl/acrylic or whatever part of the door. Please help!
  • You may be able to buy them from a junk yard and replace the broken ones yourself. Never done it but I do not think it is difficult.
  • msbenzmsbenz Posts: 1
    My vehicle was experiencing that same issues. After my mechanic found no electrical problems with the vehicle, he replaced the fuel injection pump. It has been about a months time and I have taken the vehicle on both long and short trips with no problems. Hope it works on your car :)
  • eddyrodreddyrodr Posts: 2
    Hi everyone I am in the need of some info. I have a 1998 dodge grand caravan 3.0 6cyl. My horn and cruise control does not work at all i replaced the horn relay and the fuses i was wondering if anyone knew of problems like this. Also i took the van to my mechanic he seems to think that it may be a problem with the horn switch and to replace it I would have to have the airbad replaced is this true?
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    I suspect you have a bad clock spring which is mounted in the steering wheel and the horn and cruise control electrics have to pass through the clock spring--also the air bag BTW.

    There was a recall on 98's for faulty clock springs so take it to a Dealer and he can verify whether or not yours has been changed., If it has been changed, I would remind the Dealer that this is a safety related item and he will most likely change it again without charge.

    C.B.
  • Well I cannot tell you how to fix the problem, but we are having the "exact" same issue with the same year as your vehicle. Is yours a 3.3 liter? I can tell you we have replaced the following and it still has not solved it. (100k miles) 96 3.3 v6

    Fuel pump, fuel filter , spark plugs and wires, ignition coil (distributor) , water pump, all radiator hoses, thermostat, O2 sensors and PVC valve..

    I run Valvoline oil each time.

    When the problem happens it will go after waiting to restart the engine 1-5 minutes. Computer code is 43 ("Random misfire") which indicated the coil pack but I have replaced it twice with no resolution.

    If you come up with a fix I'd be interested in what you did to resolve it also. And if I find one I'll post.

    I did find at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complaints

    #705961

    Someone having the same issue as you and I are. No resolution either. I am wondering if it is a design / defect issue. - As it seems to be a extended exposure to heat / equipment failure condition.
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    Could be tires need balancing
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Did anyone suggest a cam or crankshaft position sensor to you?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jgilbertjgilbert Posts: 1
    my service engine soon light, and airbag light comes on and does not go off.
    any help please? :cry:
  • I just had new front brake pads put on my GC '01. I was expecting the brake pedal to have very little play, and to barely need applying to stop, but it still goes down about a quarter of the way and requires firm applying. It does stop much better, but still has the play in the pedal. My question is this: Should the pedal have play in it or should it barely need to be applied? Or does the pedal need an adjustment? I've heard of people having their pedal adjusted because it went too far down when applied.
    The main reason I'm asking is because I'm not sure I fully trust the place I had the pads replaced at, and am hoping they did it correctly. I don't know how to physically check the pads.
    Thanks for any help. :)
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Technically speaking, there should NEVER be any difference in how much pedal travel you get before your brakes begin to bite, regardless of how much lining you have remaining on your pads. If the pedal travel does vary, THEN you have a problem.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    Do you know if they bled the brakes after installing the new pads? Made sure the fluid is full?
  • I know they filled the fluid dispenser because they made a mess and spilled some around it, but I don't know if they bled the brakes. All the receipt said was replaced brake pads....
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    I'd take it back and tell them what it's doing and ask them if they bled the brakes.
  • jborrisjborris Posts: 1
    Is this fix still working? I read in another forum that the problem is computer related,and that if you disconnect the battery the computer will reset and voila you have gauges. I did try the battery trick. It work for a while and then the problem gradually returned after a few weeks.

    Thanks
    JB
  • georgia80georgia80 Posts: 1
    I have Chrysler Voyager 1992 (6cylinder 3.3) it has a fault #22 can you help me with that what does it mean? :lemon:
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    We have a 2001 DGC EX. Just last week I noticed that on the lower part of the speedometer, there was a part not illuminated (It was very dim). I tapped the plastic sheild a few times and it illuminated back up again. Well on occasion, I notice that it has been doing the same thing a few more times. How do you get to the light bulbs that illuminate the instrument cluster? I believe this bulb is either going out or is loose.
    Thanks
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    georgia80, My Haynes 84-95 manual lists code 22:"Coolant sensor voltage too low or too high." The description is Coolant temperature sensor input voltage too high or too low. This sensor is located on the thermostat housing where the large upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. Roy
  • Check the wiring in the Steering column.

    There was a loose connection in our 97 dodge caravan and that was the cause.
  • We seem to have a similar problem. We also purchased a 2002 Dodge Caravan (4 cylinder) in December 2001. Our car first began stalling out in 2003. At present, it is at the Dodge service shop for the 9th time for this same unresolved problem! They have replaced numerous parts including the fuel pump, cam sensor, power control module, ignition coil, ignition cable, and some other things and the problem still has not been resolved. Many times, no code appeared, while other times a code of P1684 pops up, followed by the word "done." We also hear a "ticking" noise when this happens, which appears to be coming from the fuse box. I am curious if your issue has been resolved.
  • jm52jm52 Posts: 4
    HELP URGENTLY REQUIRED. MY VEHICLE IS LEASED. 20 CENTS PER km
    FOR EVERY km over monthly allowed 1667, yearly 20004. NEVER PAID ATTENTION, MY FAULT HOWEVER WHAT l'M LOOKING FOR IS AN ANSWER TO A QUESTION.... PREFERABLY MORE THAN ONE RESPONSE TO VERIFY MY THEORY MIGHT BE CORRECT. -- IE ANYONE WITH SIMILAR PROBLEMS. 11 PLUS MONTHS OF USAGE ACCORDING TO ODOMETER 34460
    MINUS 20004 = 14459 X 20 CENTS PER KM =$2891.80 . AFTER 3 YEARS AT THIS RATE --- A PENALTY OF CLOSE TO $9000.00 PLUS A BUY OUT
    THIS A 97 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER. IF I EXCEEDED 20000 KM IN A YEAR THAT WOULD BE A MIRACLE .... TRUST ME !!!!!!THERE HAVE BEEN A HOST OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS - MOSTLY MINOR, UNTIL NOW - RELAY SWITCHES AND MOST RECENTLY A PROBLEM WITH
    STARTING, FLASHING LED'S (ACCORDING TO DODGE / PLYMOUTHS' OWN
    DATA BASE A PROBLEM WITHOUT AIR CONDITIONING UNIT --- DASHBOARD CLUSTER. AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM IS HARD TO PROVE. ie it works, now it doesn't, now it does !!!!!!!!
    One day the VAN STALLED, EVERY LIGHT ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FLASHED AND DIED. A SOUND COULD BE HEARD, LIKE A CLICKING, YOU WOULD HAVE THOUGHT I HIT THE JACKPOT ON A SLOT MACHINE. THE VEHICLE DID START EVENTUALLY. THE TRIP READING WHICH I RARELY USED BUT FOOLISHLY RESET INDICATED A READING OF OVER 10, 500 KM'S I HAVE FAITHFULLY MAINTAINED ALL ASPECTS RE UPKEEP OF THIS VEHICLE. I RECENTLY SPENT OVER $2000.00 FOR A NEW TRANNY.
    I ASKED ABOUT TRANNY PROBLEMS WHEN THE LEASE WAS SIGNED. I WAS REASSURED THAT YES THIS WAS A PROBLEM WITH DODGE / PLYMOUTH CARAVAN / VOYAGER, BUT IT WAS A PROBLEM THAT HAD BEEN CORRECTED, IN OTHER WORDS, NOT AN ISSUE ON YEAR 1997.
    DID I TAPE THE CONVERSATION? NO !!!!
    DID I GET A SWORN STATEMENT TO THIS EFFECT? NO !!!!
    NOW THE ODOMETER, WHICH I KNOW WAS ACTING WEIRD, IF ONLY ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS.
    PROBLEM: I PAY, "IN GOOD FAITH" AND FIX CURRENT PROBLEM WITH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM --- NOW THE ODOMETER WORKS FINE ????
    I DONT' NEED A FIX TO THE PROBLEM, JUST MORE THAN ONE CONFIRMATION THAT "THE ELECTRONIC CLUSTER" THAT CONTROLS THE ODOMETER READING, COULD HAVE BEEN, EVEN TEMPORARILY MALFUNCTIONING ---- IN A SERIOUS WAY......
  • kadsr1kadsr1 Posts: 2
    99 ram instrument cluster will not light up but all gauges
    and trouble lights still work. are there any fuses that control
    this? If not what could be checked to find a solution.
  • emmy21220emmy21220 Posts: 1
    Hi! I had the same problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. There was a recall for a lot of people having the problem. Took it to the dealer and they fixed it...haven't had a problem with it since. I believe it was the clockspring assembly being wound too tight. :)

    Hope this helps...
  • Yes jhconcord,

    I also have had a gas smell in our 1996 T&C minivan. One day while searching under the hood, I found where I believe the gas is coming from.
    It has only happened a few times, but happens so rarely that I have not had a permanent fix performed. The gas smell seemed more intense if the blower was running for any reason, as you may have noticed. The source of the intermittent leak on ours is the fuel supply rails that supply gas to the injectors. The exact location of the leak is the joint where the "U"-shaped fuel line connects to the two straight fuel supply rails. Only the joint closest to the front of the vehicle leaked on ours. This might be a place to start with your dealer or auto mechanic.

    Good Luck and best regards,
    .
    Town & Country Owner
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    I didn't realize that they leased used cars and vans.

    I DONT' NEED A FIX TO THE PROBLEM, JUST MORE THAN ONE CONFIRMATION THAT "THE ELECTRONIC CLUSTER" THAT CONTROLS THE ODOMETER READING, COULD HAVE BEEN, EVEN TEMPORARILY MALFUNCTIONING ---- IN A SERIOUS WAY......

    I would check other Chrysler/Dodge dealers and just ask the service managers if this is possible, without telling them about your leasing it and see what they tell you. If you can get one to confirm it, have him put it in writing. If not, couldn't you just buy the van at the end of the lease without paying a per mile overage penalty?
    I would think that penalty would only kick in if returning the van after the lease.
  • jm52jm52 Posts: 4
    Thank you [marine2] for info & suggestions. (sorry to all users for long message - all caps) I will do what you suggest - makes sense. Still be curious if anyone has had problems similar or close to same. thanks again - calm reasonable approach appreciated.
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    I really would ask about having to pay an overage penalty if you bought it after the lease. I can't see why you should if not turning it back in, but I could be wrong. It might help give you some peace of mind if all the problems have been worked out of your van and your considering buying it.
  • pweisentpweisent Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 (or according to some auto parts stores, a late 92 model) Plymouth Voyager. This van has always run great! It has almost 200,000 miles on it and the AC still works. Recently we have been having problems with starting the van...we knew it was the ignition switch but just never got around to changing it. Yesterday we went to start the van and it started smoking from inside the steering column. We pulled it apart and found the ignition switch fried. We changed it and the locking mechanism but when you turn the key to start the van there is no power. No dash light. The headlights, interior lights and everything that is not connected to the ignition works but the van won't even turn over. We have been told it is a relay switch, a cut-off switch, a fuse but not where to locate anything. My owners manual and my Haynes manual tell me nothing. Can anyone tell me if there is a safety fuse/relay/switch on this model and if so where it is? Thanks so much.
  • buckshot1buckshot1 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Grand Caravan that both the analog tach and speedometer are very 'sticky'. The tach will not go below 1000 RPM even when the ignition is off and the Speedometer has to be tapped on to get it show lower speeds. Both are very slow to move in advance and will not show accurate readings. The other guages appear to be working although there is no way to tell.
    I have been told there are 2 main parts:
    The Instrument cluster and
    the computer control module.
    Does the control module affect both the speedo and the tach or just the speedo ?

    Thanks for any help !!
  • We have a 2000 Grand Caravan 3.0L V6. The engine has around 68,000 miles on it. The problem is this: it seems that I need to change the spark plugs on the van every five months due to misfires. I know that this is a misfire that we are experiencing due to the fact that the dealership mechanic allowed me to watch as he diagnosed the van. The computer showed him that one of them, No. 6, was misfiring. He was nice enough to just replace the one plug. The plug was an Autolite which, he says, don’t do to well in Chryslers. After he did this the van ran great again. This was a quick fix, but by the end month the “shudder” returned. I’m certain that it is not solely number six. So, I then had all of the plugs replaced, as well as a full diagnostic done at the dealership. The mechanic at the dealership wanted me to replace the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and wire, all running over $800. Being that the plugs, wires, rotor, PCV valve, distributor cap and rotor were all only less than a year old, I was sure that that wasn’t worth the price for their method of troubleshooting. Now it is a few months later and it seems it’s time to replace the plugs again. I do not get any indicator lights, I am not laboring the engine with the air-conditioner—as that was how the mechanic was able to see how quickly the misfires came. The plugs themselves seem as though they may be getting too much spark. There was a slight white dust both on the plugs as well as within the distributor cap.

    Any suggestions you may have for me would be extremely helpful. I don’t mind changing the plugs every few months, however on the V6 some of them are very difficult to reach.
  • Yeah I would like to know the answer to that one as well. I got a 98 GC and the the entire cluster board is dead. If so, is there a limit to how many times you can do this trick? Or should I just have the cluster board changed?

    Thanks
    KB
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Is there any crud buildup on the spark plugs. Could be an early indication of head gasket failure causing the plugs to foul.
  • no, there isn't a crud build up, however, there is a slight white dust around them, as well as within the distributor cap, which to me makes me think that it is getting too much electricity. I was told that it could be "high resistance in the secondary ignition system."
  • stevef3stevef3 Posts: 2
    The power outlet on my 99 Grand Voyager stopped working milliseconds after plugging in an air pump. I'm sure it must be a blown fuse, but I can't figure out which one. They all look good, and my Haynes manual wasn't any help. Does anybody know? Thanks!
  • pkwalpkwal Posts: 1
    I just called my Chysler auto shop again this morning. I am getting tired of no response other than: "There have been no recalls or reports of such a problem." If you have an idea, please let me know.

    There is NO ryhme or reason for this problem. It happens in any weather, time of day, length of use....Periodically, my car acts dingy. The locks will open/close, lights go off/on, .... Once or twice while driving the entire car shut down for a few seconds then started again like nothing was wrong.

    I don't want to be stranded one day. We have had it in, but we are told it must act up on them for them to "get" it.

    We depend upon the dealer to help us. Very mechanical, we aren't. But they say there is nothing that they can do.

    We have an extended warranty--but it will soon run out.

    Help, please!
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
  • irvmlkirvmlk Posts: 1
    I have a Chrysler Voyager minivan 2000. It starts readily when the engine is very cold or very hot. At intermediate temperatures it must be cranked about 5 seconds and there is a smell of gasoline as though it might be flooded. However so far it always starts. I have had the fuel pump replaced, the injector nozzles cleaned and an AIC motor replaced with no improvement. Has anyone any suggestions.
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