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I have driven other GC's and we owned one before this one, so I know there is something going on.
I agree, take it to another dealer.
Can anyone tell me what typical problems occur with these years and why CR would list it as a used car bad bet?
1) A dead OEM battery, which I replaced with a DieHard
2) A failed wheel speed sensor which disabled the ABS and the Traction Control, fixed by the dealership for about $200
3) A failed bulb in the center brake light at the top of the tailgate, replaced during the mandated annual New Hampshire inspection
The sum and total of all unscheduled repairs on our 2003 has yet to hit $300, so by my standards, that van can well be called Extremely Reliable.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I do subscribe, mostly to get their non-reliability evaluations, so I do get and fill out their annual survey.
The worst part of the survey is they do not discriminate in an objective manner between severe and minor issues, do not ask any information about the cost or down time of the particular issue, etc. Their reliability question is only a very vague to paraphrase "Did you have any repairs that you deemed serious" and then have you list the various components. Check out truedelta.com and click on the "Think Pieces" section for some good essays.
Our 1996 Caravan (Yes horrors the first model year of a major redesign!) has served us well (AC repairs has been its only significant downfall) and it is now too old to even be considered in the CR survey.
Bottom line, they are good vehicles, and a bargain when purchased used, because they are so numerous.
1) Replaced both, front driver and passenger, power window regulators and motors. (Right after purchase and covered under warranty) Total cost was around $600. Only paid $100 deductible.
2) Gas cap. This only cost $12.00 for the part, but close to $90.00 to read the code. Total was just under a hundred to which we paid out of pocket.
3) Replaced front link, sway bar; link-sway eliminator; bushing-sway eliminator and cushion, front sway bar at 52K. Total in parts was $173.12. Don't remember total bill, but everything was covered under warranty. We only paid $100.00 deductible.
4) Battery replaced for just under $100.00 at around 55K. Paid out of pocket.
5) Had latch on liftgate replaced, upgraded computer software and adjusted the liftgate. Also, had outer tire rods replaced on both wheels at 74K. Total price was $451.25. Everything was covered under warranty, so we just paid $100.00 deductible
6) Complete brake job including turning all four rotors for $450.00 at 74K. Paid out of pocket.
7) Complete trans. flush for $89.00 at dealer at 45K.
8) Regular oil changes every 3K.
So, we have paid around $1,039.00 for all routine and none routine maintence. (This doesn't include oil changes). We definitely got our money's worth by purchasing the extended warranty. Our van has been very reliable, especially since it was the first year new model. :shades:
As many of y'all know, we have a 1998 DGC 3.8 with the Touring Package (heavier suspension and 16" wheels), and ever since the van was new it has suffered from a Pulsing Brake pedal. This van now has over 115,000 miles on the clock and as such has been through three sets of 11" MOPAR rotors as well as two top of the line NAPA sets. Each set has developed a light pulsing in the brake pedal within a few hundred miles of installation, with the problem gradually getting worse over the next 20,000 to 30,000 miles. In every case I was forced to perform a complete brake job even though the pads were far from gone. Now however, I think (hope is more likely) that I've solved the problem once and for all.
Sliced and diced every which way I could, the failure mode of the previous sets of pads and rotors led me to believe that our 1998 has been suffering from heat related warpage of the rotors, and so about a month ago I launched my quest for cooler running brake components. Here's what I found:
Rotors: Power Stop: High-Performance Cross-Drilled Rotor (about $70 per)
Pads: Performance Friction Brakes: CarbonMetallic (about $41 per axle)
Total cost for the parts (with shipping) was just under $200.
I installed them last weekend and now have just over 500 miles on them. So far at least, they stop as smooth as the brakes on our 2003. Note: by 500 miles on the previous sets I could already feel the early vestiges of the warping problem.
To see the results check out the "Caravan Stuff" folder on my Yahoo! photo page: http://photos.yahoo.com/shipo
FWIW, the 11" brakes that are on our 1998 only came from the factory on minivans with 15" or 16" wheels, a smaller 10" rotor was standard on vans with the 14" wheels and I have no idea how well those deal with the heat generated from stopping these vehicles.
FWIW #2, as illustrated by a couple of other pictures in the Caravan Stuff folder, the 11" brakes on our 2003 are substantially thicker and as such have a much greater thermal mass which is better able to deal with the heat generated from stopping. With over 66,000 miles on the 2003 we've pretty much confirmed that the heavier components on that van don't suffer from warped rotors under the very same driving conditions.
I’ll keep y'all posted as to the continued smoothness and pulse free driving that I expect to get out of them. I suppose this post will be worth it if even one of y'all have been dealing with the same issues and it helps solve them for your too. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
We have an '02 GC, this morning my wife got in it to go to work and she said the instrument cluster lights lit up across the dash. Funny electrical stuff going on...drivers side window would'nt go down also. I know Dodge vehicles act like this when the battery is going bad but I just replaced it with a new, good battery less than 2 years ago.
Any suggestions on what to check or do? Thanks.
My auto door locks also went into rapid fire mode and were constantly locking as the van sat turned off in the driveway---24 hrs. a day. That quickly ran my battery down and I had to replace it. Why the dealership didn't just recharge it, I don't know. But now I have no auto locks as we took the fuse out. The dealership says it can't be fixed, and that I will just never have auto locks. That seems unbelievable. I would like to add that I don't have a 1998 manual, just a 1999 one and the fuse box is different.
Got up this morning and the wife couldn't start the van. Checked it out and when you turn the key to start it, I get a loud clicking/ticking noise and all the interior/dash lights flash along with the ticking. The battery isn't dead and the starter doesn't engage to even try and turn the engine over. I just get the clicking and light flashing. We got a good rain last night and I'm thinking it may be moisture in a connector, but other than that, not a clue. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? It was running fine and starting without issue all day yesterday.
If someone has an idea, please let me know.
Thanks
If your battery is good you might also check the starter connections.
good luck.
THANKS
Sounds like fuel starvation to me.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Has anybody else had this sort of problem. I think it is mechanical, but I have not had a chance to look at it. I have no problems getting out of the car. It seems like the exterior handle and the lock are not working together as they should be.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Unless they changed the design since our 1996 was built, Dodge and Chrysler minivan front doors can be opened from the inside without unlocking them, the inside door handle overides the locks.
I have a 98 Town and Country LXI w/ 137,000 miles
(2nd owner). After three attempts,( the car starts but shuts itself off after a half-second... ) the security system needs to reset. IF left for an undetermined time...maybe an hour, maybe 12 to 14 hours ( my last couple of experiences) it will miraculously, restart. It appears to be associated with locking the vehicle. Hitting the switch from the inside to lock the car causes or appears to be the culprit. I was advised if the key is used to lock from the outside, it shouldn't activate the security system. It is very bizarre, but this has been a nuisance for me over the last 6 months or so. Replaced the starter, foolishly, but was hoping it was a fix. Not.
I still need answers.
Any ideas? :confuse: