Chances are buying one "right off the truck" won't save you any money. Two scenarios:
1. Let's assume that interest starts to accrue at the moment the car arrives at the dealer (most likely not true. See #2). It doesn't matter which one you buy; one that arrived today or one that has been sitting for a month. Your purchase means the dealer will have one fewer car to pay interest on.
2. Most likely the dealer will have an interest-free period (say 60 days) in which if the car is sold, the dealer will not have any interest to pay (subsidized by the manufacturer). In these cases, the dealer will prefer to sell cars that have been sitting for 55 days for example, or ones that are actually accumulating interest, and thus will be able to offer slightly better deals. Other factors being equal, cars right off the truck will be the last cars the dealer wants to sell.
I have read that replacing the back deck 6 3/4" speakers have a drastic improvement on sound quailty. I myself ordered a set of Pioneer's yesterday from Crutchfield, and am going to try to install them Sunday. I will let you know how it sounds.
I am looking into buying a 2001 Nissan SE. My debate is whether or not to get the performance package. I am in school, so money is an issue. Any input is appreciated!
In my opinion the perf package is totally worth the extra money. You get a bigger engine, 16in wheels, 55x16x195 firestone tires, four-wheel disc brakes, spoiler, side sill extensions, 180w stereo, and limited slip differential if you get a 5/speed. Much more sportier. I recommend it.
Yes! Get the Performance Package! In addition to what was mentioned in 555, the PP also includes a stiffer suspension setup for better cornering/handling.
seems to me that if you get the performance package, you gotta get that awful looking spoiler-- that alone would keep me from getting the PP-- i could be wrong.... am i nuts?
Hi all, I've checked back in after being off a while and like the way all try to help each other, really a pleasure to read. Now for some help and input.
I have 01, SE, PP and get 28 mpg city, 32 or so highway when I drive sanely. 5 speed helps. When I push it, I pay of course.
I have 15,000 miles on it and no issues. I drive a lot and it seems to be aging gracefully. Only quirk is some rattles. Left rear door handle plastic piece rattles at certain rpm. It looks like a snap fit so no screws to tighten. The right rear door also rattles at times and had to use a piece of hockey tape along the bottom to stop that. Front door, driver side has rattle which I can control by keeping my arm on the arm rest. Should I expect this amount of rattles? Is this something the dealer should fix? I also notice the rear deck rattles quite a bit when I turn the volume up / bass up on the stereo. Again, is this normal?
I really love this car, just about every part of it. Pulled up along side Honda Civic Si full of kids last night and ended up having them for dinner at a red light. I was surprised that I took them so easy, but I still had fun. Maybe I'm just a better driver (41 years old)!
somebody suggested somewhere that you could get a silicon spray to quiet most rattles. You just spray where you think those sounds are and the sound should go away. You could get a can at your local car parts store.. so I've read... never had too much rattles in my cars.
vet2be: Side sill extensions are extra moldings that are added to the side of the car along the bottom of the doors. They are totally seperate peices from the actual body of the car, but are the same color of the car. They are added to make the car look as though it is closer to the ground, and it adds a sporty look to it also.
I live in south central Kentucky and am thinking about purchasing a 2001 Sentra SE w/ 5 sp. and Perf. pkg. plus ABS and Side Airbags. From what I've read here, it's a pretty good bet I'll have to order, which I don't mind doing.I've got several questions regarding this:
1) I was planning on offering the dealer invoice, as the 3% holdback would be pure profit to the dealer. Does this sound reasonable?
2)What is a reasonable am't to put down as a deposit (I don't want to put down anymore than is absolutely necessary)?
3)I would like to have something in writing that would stipulate that I could get my deposit back should there be a problem with the car on delivery. Does anyone know of such a form?
4) Can anyone recommend a dealer who may be easy to deal with in the Lexington, KY, Louisville, KY, Knoxville, TN, Bristol-Kingsport-Johnson City, TN or Cincinnati, OH areas?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice anyone can give me!
You just spray where you think those sounds are and the sound should go away? Sure. What if the sound is under the dash? Just start spraying under there right? I have a feeling that this would not be a permanent fix if it worked at all.
I took the car skiing last weekend; 3 adults and a load of gear. We hit ice/snow at about 5000 feet on the way up I-80 to Truckee, CA. Chains weren't required on I-80, but were required on the road leading up to our family's annual ski-weekend/get-together rental cabin in Tahoe-Donner. I had chains, but with only 3-4" of snow on the road thought I'd see how good the limited-slip was, despite the design and rating of my wide G-force KDW's. (Great in dry, great in wet, great handling, long-wearing, but not recommended for the snow.) We made it all the way to the cabin's driveway, going about 3 miles up and down some steep hills, and by gently moving at 5-10 mph and keeping my momentum up we stayed on the thin edge of just enough traction to continue driving. I missed the cabin's street number, and drove past the cabin in the dark. Ooops! Now we were stopped on a hill, and no way was I going to get the car moving forward again. I backed down, passing the cabin again, and stopped. Of course, now I couldn't move forward to drive back up the hill and turn up into the steep driveway. I was going to throw on one chain to make it the last 100 feet, but family members came out, unloaded my car, and quickly dug two "pathways" in the snow so I could power up the driveway. I was impressed with the way both front tires pulled in the adverse conditions, and have NO doubt that with snow tires on the car it would be very capable in light snow. If you're out there debating on the PP and you're buying a 5-speed, I highly recommend the limited-slip front end. It has been great in the rain and when taking off quickly, especially when accelerating out of a turn. I feel the limited-slip feature is what really makes the performance-package such a value. With 18,000 on the odo, I can't say enough about this car's comfort, reliability, acceleration, stopping power, handling, sound system, you name it.....enjoy your Sentra! -quark
I'm not a fan of power windows and prefer a cassette player over CD, so I'm looking at getting an XE with Option Package (MSRP 14,138 including destination charge). The dealer Invoice is 13,241 incl Destination Charge. At the local dealer's, I made my first offer at 13,350 and would have gone up to 13,450 (which is Edmund's TMV for this car and also the carsdirect.com price). The lowest they would go was 14,100- they said they imposed a non-negotiable $250 advertising fee and said I had no choice but to pay for the $79 floor mats too, whether I wanted them or not (I didn't). They said they didn't get any of the 3% holdback and wouldn't profit a penny if they sold the car to me at the carsdirect.com price. I walked and will probably just order from carsdirect instead- the price there is $13,449. Just curious, though: How in the world does carsdirect.com avoid Advertising and other fees and still get local dealers to participate?
hi all im wondering if you guys can help me out. is it possible to turn the steering wheel counter clock-wise about 5 degrees, without affecting the cars allignment or the airbags? the cars drives straight other than the fact the wheel is a touch tilted to the right. i had i slight pull to right when i first got the car and took it to the dealer. well the car drives straight now other than the wheel is off-center. also can this be done in any mechanic shop? my car is a 2000 se w/5000 miles. thanx
It shouldn't affect anything, except be annoying. If you are close to your 2nd oil change, you will want the tires rotated. Suggest an alignment is in order, if anything to straighten the wheel.
I have read elsewhere that alignments @ Nissan dealers are guarenteed for 12k miles, but have not verified this at fact.
I bought a black 2001 Sentra SE, with the PP, 3 weeks ago and I love it so far. Unfortunately as I was driving on the freeway on Friday night in heavy rain an SUV clipped me and took my drivers side wing mirror off. He then floored it and drove away, but not before I got his license plate # - a six digit temporary plate. The police couldn't find anything, even with the plate numbers, so now it looks like I'm going to have to swallow this one, which really, really annoys me. Anyway, I went to the dealer last night to price the mirror. The price for the assembly is $130, on top of that labor is $70 and to get the mirror sprayed black is another $70. This comes to just undewr the cost of my monthly payments, and as I have a $500 dollar deductible I don't have the option of claiming it. I have a few questions for the forum... Is there anywhere on the internet which sells the part I am looking for? I actually only need the plastic shell as the mirror and motor are fine. The spraying charge seems strange - the snapped neck of the mirror shows that the shell is black plastic throughout and I can't really see a coat of paint on there - maybe they only spray it with clearcoat? finally, has anyone got any experience with replacing the wing morror and is it something I could do myself - does it require popping the inside panel off with special tools...etc. Other than this crappy mishap I'm loving my car. The performance package is well worth it, although be warned, the ride gets a little harsher on uneven road surfaces. Backroads are a blast though. Stereos more than adequate and the foglights, side sill etensions and spoiler make the car look a lot nicer than your typical economy sedan. Just keep out of the way of idiots in SUVs!
I purchased a GXE in September and thus far, have been very happy with it. The build quality is extremely good and the car is surprisingly strong in all aspects of driving. My issue is this: two weeks ago we got snow, not alot but enough for plowing (3-4"). As I was entering my driveway, I merely drove over the snow at the entrance of my driveway, no big deal. The next day I realized that I had cracked the front lower fascia/spoiler. I then realized that this entire piece, which is part of the full front bumper, is made of the thinnest plastic. When I called Nissan service the manager said, "Yeah, that isn't the greatest design, they really should have used fiberglass or thickened the piece, as that part is so low-hanging and thin (!!!!). Needless to say, I am livid at the situation. Now I am stuck with buying an entire new front bumper assembly due to some 'great' cost-cutting measures at the corporate office. And of course, the "Gee, I wish I could help you," game hasn't made me feel any better. Yes, I know, don't hit snow, or a speed bump, or a pot hole, or a parking space curb', etc. but, reach down and tap that piece yourself and you will see exactly what I mean. So much for getting a great deal.... By the way, has anyone else had this/seen this happen?
newskate9: I've had my 2000 SE w/PP for over 10,000 miles, and am also very impressed. The only problems I've had, like you, are the occasional rattles. Mine mostly occur in the far passenger-side of the dash board. What's maddening is that they are intermittent, which is why I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer. But I think I'll eventually do so, and you should too. They may not be able to fix it, but on the other hand, I've seen many Sentra owners complain of the same thing, so the dealers might have some experience with fixing the problem.
Re: Front Fascia Richard79, too bad about the spoiler. However, it may be that not only Nissan, but all/many other manufactures make their spoilers this way as well. It's entirely possible that the same thing could have happened in a Protege or Civic. I'd say you still got a good deal and wouldn't worry too much about it (after getting it fixed, of course). I haven't heard of this happening to others.
I am getting ready for my first oil change on 2001 Sentra SE.I was thinking about going with Mobil 1 synthetic.Does anybody know the pros and cons of using a synthetic oil?
you might want to head over to the maintenance and repair forum for heated discussion of this topic. However, my short take on this is
1) You use it if you drive hard (redline alot) 2) Use it if you want to extend the oil change interval (more than 3000 miles or 3 months - possiblly up to 7500 miles, but I wouldn't if I were you) 3) Use it if you are going to keep your car for a long time 4) Use it if you can change the oil yourself since the cost would be about the same as regular oil if someone else change the oil for you.
In short, I used it before and I don't notice any significant gains in terms of performance or fuel economy. If I had a Corvette then I might have to use it. Also, the standard on synthetic is not strict enough so that Mobil has protested about how some other companies has labeled their oil as synthetic.
I would like to share my experiences since taking delivery of my 2000 SE in June of 2000. It has AT, ABS with SAB,and PP and cuurrently 28K miles. I live in this car! Lots of fun to drive! MPG to Date avg 29..All Highway I have had the wind noise problem at speed(over 70 mph). I resolved that by cutting a 1/2" peice of clear plastic from a folder I purchased at Wal-Mart. I inserted this 8 1/2" long peice under the trim at the top center of the windshield.
Now, I need some feedback. On two occasions after filling up with gas, the car has refused to go into O/D. You can downshift, upshift, dis-engage O/D, engage O/D. In both instances, I have had to shut the engine off and restart to clear the problem. The two times this has occured were three months apart. Has anyone else had this happen??
You may want to skip using synthetic oil if you have less than 3-5K miles on your car. The synthetic oil is very slippery and will prolong the break in for your car. Afterwards it's fine.
I have been is the process of bargaining for a new 2001 Sentra GXE, auto, a/c, power windows locks, i believe they call this the convience package. The dealer has given me a price for 13,800. including destination. I think this is a fair price, but always feel like i am getting taken when buying a car. Should i watch out for any other add ons, when i go in and sit at the TABLE!:)? Plan on buying this week, all replies will be much appreciated. I will be buying in West palm beach Florida
i thought power locks and windows was standard on the GXE-- i thought the convenience package was bascially keyless entry and maybe fold down rear seat.... $13,800 seems a decent price on a sentra GXE auto with the convenience package of keyless entry.... you make sure you get keyless entry, as that's the nuts.
I bought a 2000 Sentra GXE with the conv and lux package and with no abs/side air bag. I have tinted windows and a spoiler (all installed by the dealer). I paid 14,500 so you got an okay deal (the car is new but had 1200 miles on it when bought)
My car has 7K miles on it and the engine is all of a sudden very loud-sounds horrible. Anyone else have the same problem?
I live in silicon valley ,city is sunnyvale,CA and am thinking about purchasing a 2001 Sentra SE with standard equipment. From what I've read here, Nissan Sentra is pretty good . Can anyone recommend a dealer who may be easy to deal with in the San Jose,CA, Sunnyvale CA, Monuntview,CA, etc, or around the silicon valley?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice anyone can give me
Go see John at Concord Nissan. Tell him Skip with the black SE 5-speed sent you. He's easy, and he won't try to wear ya down. If the deal doesn't work....walk away and let them come to you. Good luck. (Sorry you gotta drive 40 miles from Sunnyvale, but Sunnyvale ain't what it was when I graduated from FHS in 1972, anyway.....)
Thanks for all the imput on the cost of a new gxe sentra with a/c, auto and convience package. I was feeling quite confident about the price of 13800.,(including destination) but when i called my salesman to ask for the drive off the lot price, he threw in the 499.00 dealer prep cost!!! Now i am looking at 14,300.00 plus tax, tag, title. Any thoughts on this.
my thought is dealer prep for $499 is part of the MSRP, not an add-on..
then again, if you're happy with the the bottom line price of $14,300 and you like the car, then that's your call to make-- if i liked the car and could stomach the $14300, i might say to the salesguy-- "I'll pay that $499 extra for prep, but I want free oil changes for the first three years of ownership"-- if he says no way, you can tell him, "if you think that's unreasonable, now you know how i feel about the $499 extra for dealer prep." perhaps you can come to a meeting of the minds, and make both sides leave in a win-win situation. when i bought my solara a few years back, i got a year's free of oil changes-- no dealer prep--but i did pay an advertising charge that Toyota charged over and beyond the invoice...
Destination charges were included in the MSRP, for 450.00, then the salesman told me about the prep charge of 499.00, i dont know, i think 14,300 is high for the sentra gxe w/ convience package and still have to add on tax, title and tag. Thanks for your input on thoughts for the bargaining table:)
yes-- after i posted i read local nissan dealer ad in today's paper-- every nissan in stock is $100 below invoice-- so i think adding $499 for dealer prep is nutty. good luck
Are most of the owners on here driving the MANUAL or Automatic transmission.
I'm buying the SE Sport package with the MANUAL transmission. I'm curious as to the miles per gallon everyone is getting. I'm getting 23 Mpg with my AZTEK.......I'm expecting much better with the SENTRA.
I had a chance to find out the gas mileage on my recent trip from Atlanta to Michigan. When I cruised at 80-85 mph the gas mileage was 28.5 mpg, but when I did 75 the mileage improved to 31.5 mpg. It was cold outside and IMHO the mileage could be slightly better at higher temperatures. Mileage in the city varies between 24-26 and I don't drive very hard. I picked an auto because I have to deal with a lot of stop and go traffic, but the manual is very nice slick shifting and bit more power. BTW I have an SE with performance package
Hello again Sentra fans, and some more questions: First, I want to thank those of you who took time to answer my other questions. On the rattles, I'm going to try adding some friction via tape underneath some surfaces to see if that helps. Now some new ones.
1. My car gives off HI volumes of static. It's unreal. If I drive the car for more than a minute or two, exiting it is a gamble. I've developed the habit of touching my leg to the metal on the doorsill so it doesn't hurt as much. I've closed the door with my hands at times and can actually see a spark jump from my fingers as they approach the door! I am not exaggerating. I've never had a car do this, has anyone had this problem? How to fix?
2. My radio used to pick up far away stations with general levels of low static hiss. Just last week, I'm starting to hear a static popping noise when I listen to these channels (which I do for a reason so don't suggest I change the channel!). I cannot hear it on a clear channel, only on the far ones. The level of low static has also started tracking with engine RPM. This is new too. Is there a filter or something that may be blown or disengaged?
Thanks for your help.
And the fun part, I was going 80 the other day and needed to pass. Dropped into 4th and let her fly. Not paying attention, but went out around and back in, the shifted into 5th. I looked down and was doing 105. FUN!
About the shocks you get when getting out of your car. I have this happen to me also. Whenever I get out of my car and go to shut the door. I get the worst shocks ever. I too sometimes can see sparks when I shut my door. The simplest way to not get a shock; is when you shut your door, close it by pushing on the window, and not touching the metal. You will not get these enormous shocks anymore. really it is a simple solution.
i'm thinking that the altima is being redesigned for 2002-- so while you may be able to get a real good price on an altima, you also may have an "outdated" car in a few months-- so you have to weigh the good and the bad.... i've test driven both the altima and the sentra-- i kinda liked the sentra better--- but it's all personal preference...i'd buy a camry CE before an altima, frankly...
i have no idea when is the best time to buy a used 2000-2001...
I am guessing that you are comparing the Altima GXE to the Sentra SE.
1. Reliability - I know that the Sentra is good since we had a GXE... my brother currently owns an SE
2. The 2.4L in the Altima gives more torque (helps by the larger displacement) than the 2.0L in the Sentra SE. More torque gives better pulling power (helps for pulling heavier car). Also, I think that the 2.0L is actually more advanced and recently tuned by Nissan. Altima will get a V-6 soon.
3. I bet that the Altima GXE is more comfortable since the SE has sports tuned suspension. Fun to drive would go to the Sentra SE.
4. Not sure, but good deals can be had around holidays and when a new year model is out... usually around late summer.
If you are to choose a current model Altima, the best time to buy is NOW!, while the choice is good and you still can get the color and options you want. You can allways wait just before the release of the new version, but your choice will be much thinner and I'm not sure that you will get much more rebate and good financing than today.
Go to your dealership. I had problems like this in my NX2000 and they add a small thing that is designed to reduce the static under the hood. No more problems after that.
I wonder if this static did come from the ignition cables? If the protection enveloppe of the cable is too thin, sparks can jump from them... Any other hints ??? ....
Yep, I spoke with a Nissan guy yesterday, part of the Internet sales team. He said the Spec-V will start at $1600 more than the current SE. Considering one can get a fully loaded SE for 16,500, that would make a Spec-V somewhere in the neighborhood of 18k. Not bad for 17's and 180 hp. I considered placing an order but he said wait until June when he'll have his list of incoming cars.
will have limited appeal since it will be available only in 6 speed manual. The performance would put it within striking distance of Preludes and the likes. It could almost keep up with the WRX from Subaru.... Pretty nice bang for the buck when you add the 400 watt stereo
God bless Nissan for NOT putting an automatic in the Spec V.
If one buys a performance oriented car with automatic, especially a 4 banger, it's akin to putting a limiter on the engine's performance. Not to mention having a really huge negative impact on handling.
Comments
1. Let's assume that interest starts to accrue at the moment the car arrives at the dealer (most likely not true. See #2). It doesn't matter which one you buy; one that arrived today or one that has been sitting for a month. Your purchase means the dealer will have one fewer car to pay interest on.
2. Most likely the dealer will have an interest-free period (say 60 days) in which if the car is sold, the dealer will not have any interest to pay (subsidized by the manufacturer). In these cases, the dealer will prefer to sell cars that have been sitting for 55 days for example, or ones that are actually accumulating interest, and thus will be able to offer slightly better deals. Other factors being equal, cars right off the truck will be the last cars the dealer wants to sell.
I have 01, SE, PP and get 28 mpg city, 32 or so highway when I drive sanely. 5 speed helps. When I push it, I pay of course.
I have 15,000 miles on it and no issues. I drive a lot and it seems to be aging gracefully. Only quirk is some rattles. Left rear door handle plastic piece rattles at certain rpm. It looks like a snap fit so no screws to tighten. The right rear door also rattles at times and had to use a piece of hockey tape along the bottom to stop that. Front door, driver side has rattle which I can control by keeping my arm on the arm rest. Should I expect this amount of rattles? Is this something the dealer should fix? I also notice the rear deck rattles quite a bit when I turn the volume up / bass up on the stereo. Again, is this normal?
I really love this car, just about every part of it. Pulled up along side Honda Civic Si full of kids last night and ended up having them for dinner at a red light. I was surprised that I took them so easy, but I still had fun. Maybe I'm just a better driver (41 years old)!
Thanks for any thoughts and help in advance.
1) I was planning on offering the dealer invoice, as the 3% holdback would be pure profit to the dealer. Does this sound reasonable?
2)What is a reasonable am't to put down as a deposit (I don't want to put down anymore than is absolutely necessary)?
3)I would like to have something in writing that would stipulate
that I could get my deposit back should there be a problem with the car on delivery. Does anyone know of such a form?
4) Can anyone recommend a dealer who may be easy to deal with in the Lexington, KY, Louisville, KY, Knoxville, TN, Bristol-Kingsport-Johnson City, TN or Cincinnati, OH areas?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice anyone can give me!
-quark
I have read elsewhere that alignments @ Nissan dealers are guarenteed for 12k miles, but have not verified this at fact.
ineto6 Mar 15, 2001 12:56pm
does it look like that I tried it myself? It was a suggestion.... take it with a grain of truth.
Is there anywhere on the internet which sells the part I am looking for? I actually only need the plastic shell as the mirror and motor are fine. The spraying charge seems strange - the snapped neck of the mirror shows that the shell is black plastic throughout and I can't really see a coat of paint on there - maybe they only spray it with clearcoat? finally, has anyone got any experience with replacing the wing morror and is it something I could do myself - does it require popping the inside panel off with special tools...etc.
Other than this crappy mishap I'm loving my car. The performance package is well worth it, although be warned, the ride gets a little harsher on uneven road surfaces. Backroads are a blast though. Stereos more than adequate and the foglights, side sill etensions and spoiler make the car look a lot nicer than your typical economy sedan. Just keep out of the way of idiots in SUVs!
I purchased a GXE in September and thus far, have been very happy with it. The build quality is extremely good and the car is surprisingly strong in all aspects of driving. My issue is this: two weeks ago we got snow, not alot but enough for plowing (3-4"). As I was entering my driveway, I merely drove over the snow at the entrance of my driveway, no big deal. The next day I realized that I had cracked the front lower fascia/spoiler. I then realized that this entire piece, which is part of the full front bumper, is made of the thinnest plastic. When I called Nissan service the manager said, "Yeah, that isn't the greatest design, they really should have used fiberglass or thickened the piece, as that part is so low-hanging and thin (!!!!). Needless to say, I am livid at the situation. Now I am stuck with buying an entire new front bumper assembly due to some 'great' cost-cutting measures at the corporate office. And of course, the "Gee, I wish I could help you," game hasn't made me feel any better.
Yes, I know, don't hit snow, or a speed bump, or a pot hole, or a parking space curb', etc. but, reach down and tap that piece yourself and you will see exactly what I mean.
So much for getting a great deal....
By the way, has anyone else had this/seen this happen?
Re: Front Fascia
Richard79, too bad about the spoiler. However, it may be that not only Nissan, but all/many other manufactures make their spoilers this way as well. It's entirely possible that the same thing could have happened in a Protege or Civic. I'd say you still got a good deal and wouldn't worry too much about it (after getting it fixed, of course). I haven't heard of this happening to others.
1) You use it if you drive hard (redline alot)
2) Use it if you want to extend the oil change interval (more than 3000 miles or 3 months - possiblly up to 7500 miles, but I wouldn't if I were you)
3) Use it if you are going to keep your car for a long time
4) Use it if you can change the oil yourself since the cost would be about the same as regular oil if someone else change the oil for you.
In short, I used it before and I don't notice any significant gains in terms of performance or fuel economy. If I had a Corvette then I might have to use it. Also, the standard on synthetic is not strict enough so that Mobil has protested about how some other companies has labeled their oil as synthetic.
delivery of my 2000 SE in June of 2000. It has AT,
ABS with SAB,and PP and cuurrently 28K miles. I live in this car! Lots of fun to drive!
MPG to Date avg 29..All Highway
I have had the wind noise problem at speed(over
70 mph). I resolved that by cutting a 1/2" peice
of clear plastic from a folder I purchased at Wal-Mart. I inserted this 8 1/2" long peice under the
trim at the top center of the windshield.
Now, I need some feedback. On two occasions after
filling up with gas, the car has refused to go into O/D. You can downshift, upshift, dis-engage
O/D, engage O/D. In both instances, I have had to
shut the engine off and restart to clear the problem. The two times this has occured were three
months apart. Has anyone else had this happen??
My car has 7K miles on it and the engine is all of a sudden very loud-sounds horrible. Anyone else have the same problem?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice anyone can give me
He's easy, and he won't try to wear ya down. If the deal doesn't work....walk away
and let them come to you.
Good luck.
(Sorry you gotta drive 40 miles from Sunnyvale, but Sunnyvale ain't what it was when
I graduated from FHS in 1972, anyway.....)
My Black Sentra SE will sit beside my Black 6 Month old Pontiac Aztek. I post often on the AZTEK board as that is such a controversial vehicle.
I look forward to following the discussion on the Sentra.......Already I got a real good tip about the spoiler in the front.
All the best
I was feeling quite confident about the price of 13800.,(including destination) but when i called my salesman to ask for the drive off the lot price, he threw in the 499.00 dealer prep cost!!! Now i am looking at 14,300.00 plus tax, tag, title. Any thoughts on this.
then again, if you're happy with the the bottom line price of $14,300 and you like the car, then that's your call to make-- if i liked the car and could stomach the $14300, i might say to the salesguy-- "I'll pay that $499 extra for prep, but I want free oil changes for the first three years of ownership"-- if he says no way, you can tell him, "if you think that's unreasonable, now you know how i feel about the $499 extra for dealer prep." perhaps you can come to a meeting of the minds, and make both sides leave in a win-win situation. when i bought my solara a few years back, i got a year's free of oil changes-- no dealer prep--but i did pay an advertising charge that Toyota charged over and beyond the invoice...
is high for the sentra gxe w/ convience package and still have to add on tax, title and tag.
Thanks for your input on thoughts for the bargaining table:)
I'm buying the SE Sport package with the MANUAL transmission. I'm curious as to the miles per gallon everyone is getting. I'm getting 23 Mpg with my AZTEK.......I'm expecting much better with the SENTRA.
All the best.
1. My car gives off HI volumes of static. It's unreal. If I drive the car for more than a minute or two, exiting it is a gamble. I've developed the habit of touching my leg to the metal on the doorsill so it doesn't hurt as much. I've closed the door with my hands at times and can actually see a spark jump from my fingers as they approach the door! I am not exaggerating. I've never had a car do this, has anyone had this problem? How to fix?
2. My radio used to pick up far away stations with general levels of low static hiss. Just last week, I'm starting to hear a static popping noise when I listen to these channels (which I do for a reason so don't suggest I change the channel!). I cannot hear it on a clear channel, only on the far ones. The level of low static has also started tracking with engine RPM. This is new too. Is there a filter or something that may be blown or disengaged?
Thanks for your help.
And the fun part, I was going 80 the other day and needed to pass. Dropped into 4th and let her fly. Not paying attention, but went out around and back in, the shifted into 5th. I looked down and was doing 105. FUN!
Steve
1) Which one has better reliability, and better value.
2) How can the altima have a much bigger engine yet only produce 5 more horsepower than the sentra se.
3)Which is more comfortable and fun to drive.
and last but not least
4)When is the best time in the year to buy a somewhat used car. 2000-2001.
I would appreciate any advice/help i can get.
Thanx
i have no idea when is the best time to buy a used 2000-2001...
1. Reliability - I know that the Sentra is good since we had a GXE... my brother currently owns an SE
2. The 2.4L in the Altima gives more torque (helps by the larger displacement) than the 2.0L in the Sentra SE. More torque gives better pulling power (helps for pulling heavier car). Also, I think that the 2.0L is actually more advanced and recently tuned by Nissan. Altima will get a V-6 soon.
3. I bet that the Altima GXE is more comfortable since the SE has sports tuned suspension. Fun to drive would go to the Sentra SE.
4. Not sure, but good deals can be had around holidays and when a new year model is out... usually around late summer.
I wonder if this static did come from the ignition cables? If the protection enveloppe of the cable is too thin, sparks can jump from them... Any other hints ??? ....
If one buys a performance oriented car with automatic, especially a 4 banger, it's akin to putting a limiter on the engine's performance. Not to mention having a really huge negative impact on handling.