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1. Let's assume that interest starts to accrue at the moment the car arrives at the dealer (most likely not true. See #2). It doesn't matter which one you buy; one that arrived today or one that has been sitting for a month. Your purchase means the dealer will have one fewer car to pay interest on.
2. Most likely the dealer will have an interest-free period (say 60 days) in which if the car is sold, the dealer will not have any interest to pay (subsidized by the manufacturer). In these cases, the dealer will prefer to sell cars that have been sitting for 55 days for example, or ones that are actually accumulating interest, and thus will be able to offer slightly better deals. Other factors being equal, cars right off the truck will be the last cars the dealer wants to sell.
I have 01, SE, PP and get 28 mpg city, 32 or so highway when I drive sanely. 5 speed helps. When I push it, I pay of course.
I have 15,000 miles on it and no issues. I drive a lot and it seems to be aging gracefully. Only quirk is some rattles. Left rear door handle plastic piece rattles at certain rpm. It looks like a snap fit so no screws to tighten. The right rear door also rattles at times and had to use a piece of hockey tape along the bottom to stop that. Front door, driver side has rattle which I can control by keeping my arm on the arm rest. Should I expect this amount of rattles? Is this something the dealer should fix? I also notice the rear deck rattles quite a bit when I turn the volume up / bass up on the stereo. Again, is this normal?
I really love this car, just about every part of it. Pulled up along side Honda Civic Si full of kids last night and ended up having them for dinner at a red light. I was surprised that I took them so easy, but I still had fun. Maybe I'm just a better driver (41 years old)!
Thanks for any thoughts and help in advance.
1) I was planning on offering the dealer invoice, as the 3% holdback would be pure profit to the dealer. Does this sound reasonable?
2)What is a reasonable am't to put down as a deposit (I don't want to put down anymore than is absolutely necessary)?
3)I would like to have something in writing that would stipulate
that I could get my deposit back should there be a problem with the car on delivery. Does anyone know of such a form?
4) Can anyone recommend a dealer who may be easy to deal with in the Lexington, KY, Louisville, KY, Knoxville, TN, Bristol-Kingsport-Johnson City, TN or Cincinnati, OH areas?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice anyone can give me!
-quark
I have read elsewhere that alignments @ Nissan dealers are guarenteed for 12k miles, but have not verified this at fact.
ineto6 Mar 15, 2001 12:56pm
does it look like that I tried it myself? It was a suggestion.... take it with a grain of truth.
Is there anywhere on the internet which sells the part I am looking for? I actually only need the plastic shell as the mirror and motor are fine. The spraying charge seems strange - the snapped neck of the mirror shows that the shell is black plastic throughout and I can't really see a coat of paint on there - maybe they only spray it with clearcoat? finally, has anyone got any experience with replacing the wing morror and is it something I could do myself - does it require popping the inside panel off with special tools...etc.
Other than this crappy mishap I'm loving my car. The performance package is well worth it, although be warned, the ride gets a little harsher on uneven road surfaces. Backroads are a blast though. Stereos more than adequate and the foglights, side sill etensions and spoiler make the car look a lot nicer than your typical economy sedan. Just keep out of the way of idiots in SUVs!
I purchased a GXE in September and thus far, have been very happy with it. The build quality is extremely good and the car is surprisingly strong in all aspects of driving. My issue is this: two weeks ago we got snow, not alot but enough for plowing (3-4"). As I was entering my driveway, I merely drove over the snow at the entrance of my driveway, no big deal. The next day I realized that I had cracked the front lower fascia/spoiler. I then realized that this entire piece, which is part of the full front bumper, is made of the thinnest plastic. When I called Nissan service the manager said, "Yeah, that isn't the greatest design, they really should have used fiberglass or thickened the piece, as that part is so low-hanging and thin (!!!!). Needless to say, I am livid at the situation. Now I am stuck with buying an entire new front bumper assembly due to some 'great' cost-cutting measures at the corporate office. And of course, the "Gee, I wish I could help you," game hasn't made me feel any better.
Yes, I know, don't hit snow, or a speed bump, or a pot hole, or a parking space curb', etc. but, reach down and tap that piece yourself and you will see exactly what I mean.
So much for getting a great deal....
By the way, has anyone else had this/seen this happen?
Re: Front Fascia
Richard79, too bad about the spoiler. However, it may be that not only Nissan, but all/many other manufactures make their spoilers this way as well. It's entirely possible that the same thing could have happened in a Protege or Civic. I'd say you still got a good deal and wouldn't worry too much about it (after getting it fixed, of course). I haven't heard of this happening to others.
1) You use it if you drive hard (redline alot)
2) Use it if you want to extend the oil change interval (more than 3000 miles or 3 months - possiblly up to 7500 miles, but I wouldn't if I were you)
3) Use it if you are going to keep your car for a long time
4) Use it if you can change the oil yourself since the cost would be about the same as regular oil if someone else change the oil for you.
In short, I used it before and I don't notice any significant gains in terms of performance or fuel economy. If I had a Corvette then I might have to use it. Also, the standard on synthetic is not strict enough so that Mobil has protested about how some other companies has labeled their oil as synthetic.
delivery of my 2000 SE in June of 2000. It has AT,
ABS with SAB,and PP and cuurrently 28K miles. I live in this car! Lots of fun to drive!
MPG to Date avg 29..All Highway
I have had the wind noise problem at speed(over
70 mph). I resolved that by cutting a 1/2" peice
of clear plastic from a folder I purchased at Wal-Mart. I inserted this 8 1/2" long peice under the
trim at the top center of the windshield.
Now, I need some feedback. On two occasions after
filling up with gas, the car has refused to go into O/D. You can downshift, upshift, dis-engage
O/D, engage O/D. In both instances, I have had to
shut the engine off and restart to clear the problem. The two times this has occured were three
months apart. Has anyone else had this happen??
My car has 7K miles on it and the engine is all of a sudden very loud-sounds horrible. Anyone else have the same problem?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice anyone can give me
He's easy, and he won't try to wear ya down. If the deal doesn't work....walk away
and let them come to you.
Good luck.
(Sorry you gotta drive 40 miles from Sunnyvale, but Sunnyvale ain't what it was when
I graduated from FHS in 1972, anyway.....)
My Black Sentra SE will sit beside my Black 6 Month old Pontiac Aztek. I post often on the AZTEK board as that is such a controversial vehicle.
I look forward to following the discussion on the Sentra.......Already I got a real good tip about the spoiler in the front.
All the best
I was feeling quite confident about the price of 13800.,(including destination) but when i called my salesman to ask for the drive off the lot price, he threw in the 499.00 dealer prep cost!!! Now i am looking at 14,300.00 plus tax, tag, title. Any thoughts on this.
then again, if you're happy with the the bottom line price of $14,300 and you like the car, then that's your call to make-- if i liked the car and could stomach the $14300, i might say to the salesguy-- "I'll pay that $499 extra for prep, but I want free oil changes for the first three years of ownership"-- if he says no way, you can tell him, "if you think that's unreasonable, now you know how i feel about the $499 extra for dealer prep." perhaps you can come to a meeting of the minds, and make both sides leave in a win-win situation. when i bought my solara a few years back, i got a year's free of oil changes-- no dealer prep--but i did pay an advertising charge that Toyota charged over and beyond the invoice...
is high for the sentra gxe w/ convience package and still have to add on tax, title and tag.
Thanks for your input on thoughts for the bargaining table:)
I'm buying the SE Sport package with the MANUAL transmission. I'm curious as to the miles per gallon everyone is getting. I'm getting 23 Mpg with my AZTEK.......I'm expecting much better with the SENTRA.
All the best.
1. My car gives off HI volumes of static. It's unreal. If I drive the car for more than a minute or two, exiting it is a gamble. I've developed the habit of touching my leg to the metal on the doorsill so it doesn't hurt as much. I've closed the door with my hands at times and can actually see a spark jump from my fingers as they approach the door! I am not exaggerating. I've never had a car do this, has anyone had this problem? How to fix?
2. My radio used to pick up far away stations with general levels of low static hiss. Just last week, I'm starting to hear a static popping noise when I listen to these channels (which I do for a reason so don't suggest I change the channel!). I cannot hear it on a clear channel, only on the far ones. The level of low static has also started tracking with engine RPM. This is new too. Is there a filter or something that may be blown or disengaged?
Thanks for your help.
And the fun part, I was going 80 the other day and needed to pass. Dropped into 4th and let her fly. Not paying attention, but went out around and back in, the shifted into 5th. I looked down and was doing 105. FUN!
Steve
1) Which one has better reliability, and better value.
2) How can the altima have a much bigger engine yet only produce 5 more horsepower than the sentra se.
3)Which is more comfortable and fun to drive.
and last but not least
4)When is the best time in the year to buy a somewhat used car. 2000-2001.
I would appreciate any advice/help i can get.
Thanx
i have no idea when is the best time to buy a used 2000-2001...
1. Reliability - I know that the Sentra is good since we had a GXE... my brother currently owns an SE
2. The 2.4L in the Altima gives more torque (helps by the larger displacement) than the 2.0L in the Sentra SE. More torque gives better pulling power (helps for pulling heavier car). Also, I think that the 2.0L is actually more advanced and recently tuned by Nissan. Altima will get a V-6 soon.
3. I bet that the Altima GXE is more comfortable since the SE has sports tuned suspension. Fun to drive would go to the Sentra SE.
4. Not sure, but good deals can be had around holidays and when a new year model is out... usually around late summer.
I wonder if this static did come from the ignition cables? If the protection enveloppe of the cable is too thin, sparks can jump from them... Any other hints ??? ....
If one buys a performance oriented car with automatic, especially a 4 banger, it's akin to putting a limiter on the engine's performance. Not to mention having a really huge negative impact on handling.