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Since he upgraded to a 1998 Intrepid (and since to a 2001 Intrepid), he hasn't had a bit of trouble.
Best Regards,
Shipo
WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK--A Good Price?
The extended warranty directly thru Chysler (over the phone) would be $1700 for a zero deductible maximum care package or $1275 for xero deductible Added care Package. (A $50 deductible only brings the price down a bit and a $100 surcharge is included since it is a 2003 model w/19K miles.) DOES THIS ALL SOUND CORRECT?
To me it seems crazy to pay $1200 - $1700 for extended care when the vehicle already comes with a 7/70 Powetrain warranty? I could see maybe if 3/36 was all the car came with. IS THE EXTENDED CARE WORTH IT? Am I better off just banking the $$$$ and drawing on it for repairs as needed?
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also, regarding the warranty...any time I have had non-OEM warranties I have ended up getting jerked around and feeling as though I was ripped off. I have found the OEM warranties thru Chrysler, Ford, Toyota etc offer few hassles.
I just find it incredible that I can buy a new Camry with a 3/36K warranty and extend it to 7/75K bumper to bumper with a $0 deductible for $650. Yet the Chrysler that comes with the same 3/36K PLUS an additional 7/70 powertrain charges $1600 for the bumper to bumper plan. It is almost as though Chrysler knows there will be a major repair and I am prepaying for it. Am I just panicking on this van's reliability?
There is a Maximum Care and Added Care. The specifics are supposedly on the cHrysler Web Site.
It really doesn't matter much which brand, they all have to meet minimum industry established standards, I believe the rating is SJ now, or have they gotten to another level?
I tend to buy whatever name brand is on sale, Shell Mobil, Quakes State, whatever. With the mail in rebates that always seem to be available from the large chain auto parts stores included, I rarely spend more than 69 cents a quart.
You can buy oil filters typically for no more than $4-$5 per filter.
I don't bother with synthetic oils, I would rather change the oil oftener with inexpensive conventional oil so that I get all contamination out every oil change, rather than try to stretch my oil changes because of the expensive cost of synthetic oils.
You can buy oil change containers that make it easy to catch and take the used oil to your local recycling location. That and a few wrenches, ramps, and and oil filter wrench is all you need.
If you don't want to do it yourself you could probably easily go 5,000 miles between changes but I would still stick with non synthetic oil. Synyhetics are just too expensive for the marginal benefits, in my opinion.
Badger,
Of course, because there are many who believe in synthetic motor oil like a religion, you're going to be considered a heretic. However, as a synthetic oil user myself I think you are unequivocally correct.
There is a point at which it is not cost effective nor the best for the engine to use synthetic motor oil for long durations. There are a number of factors to be considered, it is not a black-and-white issue as some would like to believe.
Best regards,
Dusty
Anyway, the door open chime recently stayed on even with all doors properly closed and I can't seem to figure how to get it to shut off. Can I remove a fuse or just cut the wire? With the van as old as it is, I hate to bring it to the dealer for this service. What's the best way to fix this??
All of the above applies to the 1996 generation, but assuming they carried over the door switch, it may be the same procedure.
Steve, Host
I would prefer a 2005 Odyssey EX but $28,510 is about twice what I paid a few months ago for my T&C that had less than 27,000 one-owner miles.
Edmunds Town Hall information gave me the courage to buy another Chrysler product after my 1970 Dodge van was the worst vehicle I ever owned.
Was your replacement tranny covered by a warranty? 15,000 miles on it is pretty bad.
Steve, Host
Only complaint with 4 cyl '86 Caravan was lack of power. An '01 Camry replaced the '93 Taurus.
The model names within a brand change so often a person needs a computer to be able to list all the models dropped.
Trying to keep up with all the current models, much less the retired names, is a real handful, and that's just in North America.
Steve, Host
I am disgusted with DaimlerChrysler and Chrysler for dropping entire lines of vehicles and for changing the names on vehicles currently in production.
When they dropped Plymouth and placed the name Chrysler on former Plymouth vehicles they effectively downgraded the Chrysler label.
In the olden days, a Chrysler was a luxury car like Cadillac or Lincoln and a Plymouth was an entry level like Ford or Chevrolet. A Chrysler Town & Country used to considered a luxury minivan.
Does anyone now think of Chrysler as a luxury vehicle? Calling the former Plymouth Voyager a Chrysler T&C has many people thinking a Town & Country is no more luxurious than a Kia Sedona.
Steve, Host
(former owner of a Plymouth Voyager)
Just as stupid for GM to drop Oldsmobile as for Chrysler to drop Plymouth. GM's decision was more heinous because GM created Saturn and then dropped Oldsmobile. LaSalle was before my time.
I went under there today and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I also tried jacking on the tires to see if there is any looseness and didn't find anything.
Any ideas?
When I looked at the 2002 Kia Sedona EX it appeared on the surface as luxurious and about the size of the 2002 Chrysler Voyager. However, a closer comparison showed that the Sedona EX lacked many of the nice features of the Chrysler Voyager.
I am very pleased with my 2002 Chrysler T&C LX but realize it is the re-incarnation of what was known for years as the Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. A 2000 Chrysler T&C LX was a MUCH nicer minivan than the 2000 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE that sold as a Plymouth in late 1999 and was re-labeled the Chrysler Grand Voyager SE in January 2000.
None of the NEW 2005 Chrysler SWB T&C (that I have looked at)have a tachometer although the tachometer is standard on the Caravan SXT and not available on the Caravan SE.
You won't have to pay sticker, but probably about halfway between $15k and $22k
But, it is a very nicely equipped minivan with the 3.3L V6, 2nd row bucket seats, Dual-Zone temperature (driver and front passenger separate controls), cast wheels, and Speed Control.
The $1400 Option Group includes the complete overhead console with compass/outside temp and trip computer, 8 way power driver seat, 50/50 split folding rear seat, roof rack, and illuminated visor vanity mirrors for MSRP $23,685.
The Caravan SXT is a much nicer vehicle than the Chrysler SWB clone...and it is impossible to get exactly the same optional equipment on the 2.
The GC SXT is a less expensive clone of the Chrysler T&C Touring while the GC SE Plus is a clone of the T&C LX .
SXT in Caravan or Grand Caravan is THE BEST BUY in minivans although the Ody EX with a $3100 discount is a close 2nd to the GC SXT with a $1500 discount. A GC SE Plus with 8 way power seat and Equipment Group II costs almost as much as the GC SXT but lacks power sliding doors both sides, cast wheels, the 3.8L V6, and more nice features. No one would buy either a GC SE Plus or a T&C LX if they closely compared pricing on all DC models.
He did not get the recent college graduate or small business rebates that added up $1100 of the total $6,000 in the ad.
DaimlerChrysler advertising is very misleading.
Steve, I am surprised and disappointed that a Host would post such a view. You should realize that rebates are disclosed to the consumer and to the manufacturer. Proof of qualification for rebates has to be included in the deal (i.e. a copy of degree for college grad program) – for audit purposes. Negotiation on price is one thing – suggesting illegalities to your readers is entirely another. Please consider deleting your post. Thanks.
If the dealer sells a van to my neighbor after rebates for $20k, why should I buy the same van for $22k? I don't care if I'm not eligible for the listed rebates or incentives and I don't expect the dealer to try any shenanigans with the manufacturer, but I do care that I'm buying a car that's going to be worth less because the incentives have lowered the market value (now and in the future).
I don't think I suggested lying about being qualified for a specific incentive - there's nothing illegal about asking for the same price that the next person got. I just think there's room on the table for the dealer to give me the same deal as he gave the neighbor, even though I may not qualify for the posted incentives.
If the deal doesn't make financial sense for the dealer, they'll let me walk down the road to the next showroom.
Gotta add a link <g>:
Wall Street Journal
Steve, Host
Maybe Terry will stop in with the dealer's viewpoint and tell me I'm out to lunch. At which point Bobst can do his "tell them your number" spiel.
For info on other incentives that don't get a lot of press, check out the Rebates, Incentives, APRs - Questions & Comments discussion.
Steve, Host
Yes but people don't like paying more for the same item than the next person.
Even if you don't qualify for the offered rebates, my feeling is that you should still be able to negotiate a price that approaches the price another person may get with the rebates.
To me, if the dealer/manufacturer is offering a van for $4,000 under MSRP after rebates, then that's what the van is worth.
Sales, meanwhile, must be ok:
" The Chrysler side of DaimlerChrysler ... is expected to continue its string of seven straight months of stronger results, some analysts said"
Reuters
Steve, Host
Ford, GM, and Chrysler have been the worst offenders for having rebates to move vehicles. The consumer has benefitted greatly by Edmunds publishing the information on wholesale, retail, rebates, and incentives to dealers on new vehicles.
When I communicated with Dodge they sent a kiss off letter. Both things occurred just after warranty. I kept the seat assembly to find out what really went wrong and to remind me to avoid Chrysler products in the future.
Buyer beware.
Same with high tech OHC engines.