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It looks like I can get one in good shape with reasonable mileage for $7000 to $9000.
Here is my question. I'm a bit confused looking at the different model info on the web. I would like a Caravan with the shorter wheelbase (89in I think) with the 6valve engine. So what model am I looking for. I only know I don't want the Grand Caravan.
Also if anyone wants to link to any specific posts about buying a used Caravan, it would be appreciated. Thanks
Best Regards,
Shipo
They showed where it was and step by step directions for removing.
I have a 2003 Grand Caravan and I will be looking for my Filter behind the Glove Box.....Hope this helps.....
My sister just bought a nice used 2005 GC SE that had 23,000 miles and has already added another 1,000 miles.
75000 miles but it's in great shape and I love the way it drives.
But I have two questions. Do I have to go to a dealer to get a copy of the Auto-Lock key, and how much will it cost.
Second, on the second row sliding doors are these rubber plug in the middle front. What are these?
Thanks, I'm sure I'll be back with more queries:-)
If not, could I just have a second key made at the hardware store?
Another choice might be to find someone who owns one and tie up a copying machine!
Over the years I've performed this test on the 1998 a number of times and the best result achieved so far was a 23.2 OBC reading done at the end of March this year. As a point of reference, this particular car has been averaging 21.259 mpg over the last year (a little over 30,000 miles), and 19.542 over its eight year 118,276 mile life.
With the above in mind, imagine my growing surprise when this particular set of 5 round trips to work (50% interstate, 40% suburban 2-Lane road, 10% urban crawl), plus a half a dozen local errands, continued to average within .5 mpg either way of 26! In fact, this evening as I was pulling off the interstate I had a solid 26.0 going, unfortunately there was a 1 mile crawl up to the intersection with the gas station, and the OBC "clicked" down to 25.9 just as I was rolling up to the pump. :-(
The particulars are as follows:
Beginning fill up: 28-Jul
Starting mileage: 117,852
Ending fill up: 3-Aug
Ending mileage: 118,271
Trip Mileage (obc): 423.4
Elapse Time (obc): 9:15
Average Speed (calc): 45.77 mph
Gallons of Fuel: 16.318
Mileage (obc): 25.9
Mileage (calc): 25.95
Interesting items:
- The EPA rating for this van is 17 City & 24 Highway
- Over the week I "Cold Started" the van 12 times. Each cold start and the subsequent driving until fully warmed up exacted a fairly significant toll in OBC mileage (.7 mpg last Friday night, .2 mpg this evening).
- The highest number of miles ever in this van for one tank of gas prior to this tank: 407.6 (the same tank that yielded 23.2 mpg in March), however that tank took over 2 gallons more at fill up.
- Given that there were an easy 3 gallons of gas left in the tank, had I been so inclined, I could have probably driven just over 500 miles on one tank. I know folks with the smaller/more fuel efficient engines in these vans do this all of the time, however, I think that's pretty rare for a 3.8 liter van.
- I've been running Mobil 1 0W-40 oil in this van for some time and many folks "In the know" (think BITOG) have opined that my mileage should suffer because I am using a heavier oil than what is specified in my Owner's Manual. Hmmm, could have fooled me. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
It has never occured to me to try and get more power from our van.
The EPA mileage is just a tidge better with the 3.3 than the 3.8, though whether better in the real world is probably questionable. Even if you could find "tuner" items for GC, these would all detract from fuel efficiency, which is more important these days than how fast you can get 0-60.
So, should I pass on the option and add the transmission cooler later or get the package? What are the pro's cons?
Thanks,
Steve
I was told to take my van in just before the warranty expires and have them check for anything that looks like it might need replacing. It might cost you an hour of labor charge, but if they find something that is about to need replacing and does it, you'll more than save money. If nothing wrong, you can feel at ease at least.
Beset Regards,
Shipo
Yes, that type of engine operation will kill an engine before the miles on the odometer says it's time.
Slick 50 is for chumps. It is absolute 100% snake oil and designed to prolong the financial life of the folks who make and sell it and nothing else.
True story: Back when I worked for MB-USA, they had "donated" (actually they charged them $1.00 USD) a bullet proof limousine (converted from a 560SEL) to the U.N. for the purposes of carting the Secretary-General (then Boutros Boutros-Ghali) around while he was in New York. Due to the standing rules of how he was to be serviced, that car idled a lot. Guess what? After only 20,000 miles the top end of the engine was shot, forcing the car to be returned to Montvale for a rebuild of the top end of the engine.
Best Regards,
Shipo
As the wise old sage once said, "It all depends."
Our 2003 DGC ES has traction control, we live in southern New Hampshire (fairly hilly), our street has a 7.5% grade, our driveway has a 15% grade and some driveways on our street have over a 30% grade.
With the OEM Bridgestone Turanzas that van was "okay" but nothing to write home about. Last fall I mounted Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires and it went from "okay" to "okay". That having been said, it was still no match for my RWD sedan with traction control and full-on winter tires (Michelin Arctic-Alpin).
Said another way, the 2003 has no problem with our street or our driveway with anything less than about 8" of snow, however, there ain't no way it's going to make it up any of the steeper driveways in our neighborhood (unless I go up in reverse), unlike my winter tire shod RWD car which just works its way right up the slope.
Were I in your shoes I'd either look for a used DGC with the AWD system that had to be done away with so that DC could make the Stow-n-go system, or I'd get a van with the traction control and a separate set of winter tires (along with their own set of wheels).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
In early '05 we came off warranty, and wouldn't you know it, the light comes on again. We go to see the dealer and (now that there's no warranty of course) they say we need to replace the airbag (shock and amazement!)..
I didn't think airbags spoiled like mayonnaise at a 4th of July picnic, number one. AND, I suppose the "Warranty Is Over Timer" worked perfectly. Cost of dealing with airbag light issues while under warranty = $0.00. Cost of replacing a suspiciously timed "bad" airbag, about $1,300.
the van's been great but for this issue - anybody feeling my pain?
Tatt
Larry
So, what do you have? My bet is that you either have a 1994 Caravan with the 3.0 liter V6 and a 4-Speed transmission OR you have a 1984 with either a 2.2 (Chrysler) or a 2.6 liter (Mitsubishi) four cylinder engine with the old 3-Speed Automatic.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Larry
The good news is that this van is still as fast and fuel efficient as it has ever been and as reliable as any car I've ever owned. Not too shabby! :shades:
Best Regards,
Shipo
She was VERY happy when they got a nice, used 2005 GC SE in April this year.
I doubt that I will keep my 2006 Sienna LE long enough to accumulate 125,000 miles. :shades:
1. My passenger side door's window regular stop working
2. Bigger problem is my lift gate lock remins in lock position not able to open i.e. can not close
Any advice ?
Thanks,