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Are they telling you they won't sell you one or that they don't have any in stock to sell you?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Faced with the prospect of yet another 100+ inch snow winter, I decided that after 65,000 miles I'd gotten my money out of them and it was time for a new set. Initially my "short list" for new tires was simple, 1) another set of TripleTreds, or 2) a set of Yokohama AVID TRZ tires that have gotten a number of good reviews over the years and are very reasonably priced. A week or so before I pulled the trigger on the tires I came across reviews from several individuals that had put the very new Cooper CS4 Touring tires on their Chrysler minivans, and had nothing but good things to say about their new shoes.
I did a little research and found that a set of four could be had for virtually the same price as the Yokohamas, however, the Yokos are getting a little long in the tooth as they have been on the market for several years now while Cooper is using some very new technology to build the CS4s (apparently the same technology as Michelin is using on their new Primacy MXV4 model). Given the relatively modest cost of these tires and their almost ridiculous tread wear warranty of 80,000 miles (yeesh, our 1998 already has well over 150,000 miles on it), I figured they'd be worth a gamble.
Even thought I have less than a thousand miles on the new Coopers, the miles I have driven have ranged from dry 50 degree road surfaces to cold and wet, ice covered and snow covered up to about six inches. Compared to the TripleTreds that the CS4s replaced, the comparison categories that I can think of stack up as follows:
Dry grip: Tie
Wet grip: Tie
Snow grip: CS4 (by a wide margin)
Road noise: CS4 (the TripleTreds weren't all that noisy, the CS4s are just quieter)
Braking: Tie
Cushy ride: CS4 (I like a firmer ride and prefer the TripleTreds in this category)
Lateral grip: TripleTred (by a narrow margin)
Steering response: TripleTred (a subtle but noticeable difference)
Smoothness when cold: CS4 (the TripleTreds would flat-spot a bit when it was below 10 degrees and would take a few miles to smooth out)
All in all, these are fairly comparable tires, and given that the CS4s can be had for about $100 less per set (out the door) than the TripleTreds, I think Cooper has done a commendable job on these tires. I predict that they will become very popular with the minivan crowd.
Best Regards,
Shipo
i know its 6 months gone since last post.
i still had the problem until november, the car went altogether, i had no power at all.
i put a volt meter on the battery, it read 12v, when i turned the ignition it went down to 3v,
there was now low power clicking, just dead.
the transit van i have has got excactly the same battery, so i thought i would try the crysler bettery on that.
i disconnected the neg,
but when i tried to disconnect the live it was stuck fast, i took the bolt out and gently opened the gripper with a large blade driver, it opened with a crack, inside the gripper and the battery terminal was dry corrosion, i cleaned both till nice and shiny with wire wall, put a bit of copper grease on both live and neg.
i have not had the problem since, car seams to runn better too, i suppose its not over working the alternator.
regards.
gary.
Thank you for the post! I had TripleTreds on my '96 Outback and found them to be the best performing all-season tires I had tried. I gave up some fuel economy with them, but no regrets having purchased them. I will certainly keep the Coopers in mind if/when I need to replace the tires on the '98 GC.
Last summer I managed to milk a record number of miles out of a single tank from our 1998 3.8 liter DGC Sport (500+ miles on one tank, 28.2 mpg between a point fifteen miles southwest of Port Huron, MI and the NY-Thruway rest area outside of Albany, NY), and that was with the TripleTreds on the van. Other than that trip, I cannot say that any of the three different types of tires on that van have affected the fuel economy to any measurable degree (or the Bridgestone EL42 vs. the TripleTreds on our 2003 DGC ES for th at matter).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Who knows though. The car had 195,000 miles on it when the tires were installed, so anything is possible. They were still fabulous tires!
Best Regards,
Shipo
the installation was clumsy, but its in and pretty clean looking.
Question. The motor is really slow in the up direction. Down travel is really fast.
Makes sense, but the motor is getting really hot.
I could wrap up the job, but I know the motor will fail if I leave it like this. Its a friends car and she has already put out $200 for each of the two front windows already.
It seems like the motor doesn't have the *alls to lift the window.
Any advice is welcome.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Could the "rattling" also be described as a clattering noise from the engine? If so you or your mechanic are/is probably using an oil filter that has a crappy Anti-Drainback Valve (not to be confused with a crappy filter as many high dollar filters have worthless ADVs). With our 1998 Caravan I've tried any number of filters over the years, and so far at least, the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (available at Walmart and Autozone, and I'm sure many other places) keeps the engine the quietest by a wide margin. In fact the "margin" is so wide that I've stopped trying other filters and will use NOTHING but the FL-1A.
If you decide to use the Motorcraft filter, do not be alarmed by its large size, Chrysler and Ford used filters built to the same specs for literally decades, and when Chrysler specified the smaller filter that came on our vans, they simply lopped the last couple of inches off of the large cannister filters, slapped a new model number on them and called it a day. That said, instead of adding five quarts following an oil change, now you'll need to add ~5.2 or 5.3 quarts to bring the oil up to the "Full" mark on the dipstick.
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
If you have a rod pounding, the noise will not subside in the least after an engine start, cold or hot, it will pound all of the time. Regarding Lucas oil additives, nope, if you truely have a problem, that stuff won't help (in fact, it won't help even if you don't have a problem).
Best Regards,
Shipo
Question: Did you ever run this engine low on oil at any point? Have you ever seen the oil pressure light illuminate?
Best Regards,
Shipo
As I see it, if you have lower end damage (i.e. a rod pounding or other bearing related damage), you have three basic options.
1) Have the engine repaired. This one may be a cost effective option assuming that the crank shaft hasn't yet been damaged. Probably your best bet here would be to have a competent mechanic pull the oil pan (which on our vans is easy and doesn't require the removal of any frame, engine mount, or suspension components) and examine the crank and bearing assemblies. If the crank is damaged, you'll probably need to have the engine pulled, and that's where the price rises considerably. That said, if the crank is in good shape, you'll probably be able to get away with a set of main and rod bearings and an oil pan gasket. Total cost should be under $500.
2) A used engine from a bone yard. The good news here is that these engines are very plentiful (there are lots of minivans on the road these days), and typically good for at least 200,000 miles with only minimal maintenance. I've heard reports of folks finding engines in great condition with less than 100,000 miles on them for only a couple of hundred dollars. You can probably buy the used motor and pay to have it installed for less than $1,000.
3) A new shortblock. The web site http://www.dodgeparts.com lists a new short block (a fully built up engine block that includes the crank, bearings, pistons, cam and all of then necessary hardware above the oil pan and below the cylinder heads) for $1,254 for the 3.3 liter engine. If you decide to go this route, you'll have to pay someone to pull your old mill, move the upper end of the engine (heads, manifolds, covers...) and the lower end components (oil pan and such) to the new block and then reinstall it in your van. The total cost here is probably between $2,000 and $2,500.
Were it that I had an older van that needed an engine but was otherwise in good condition, I'd probably opt for option #2, errr, that is if I didn't have the ability to do my own work. In my case, I'd probably yank the motor, overhaul it and slap it back in. The total cost (not counting my labor) is probably well under $1,000, and will yield what is essentially a "new" engine. So, feel handy and feel like getting your hands dirty?
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
it started high reving to 2000 revs then it dropped for a bit,
20 mins of driving, I stopped the engine then all hell broke loose,
it started bubbling, it over heated so I put the heaters on in the car and steam came out of the front vent, steamed the window up and then a smell of like it was electrical
so anyone know what could be the problem? please help!!!. its a 3.3 le gas conversion :confuse: :sick:
also check wire loom under bonnett, right hand side of engine, make sure it is fastened up, mine dropped down on to the excaust manifold and burnt, cost £300 to get fixed.
Good luck!
I also found out that the dealers go out of their way to do everything possible to get your money without fixing the problem. I learned this from veiwing comments located at http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4SNCA_enUS257US25- 7&q=mass+airflow+sensor+wires+cleaning and learned alot.
I started distrusting the dealer after I took my van in for the so called recall on the upper power steering hose. I never had any problem until they replaced the hose, then had whining noise, shuddering when sturning. They tried to get me to change the whole power steering components. After doing reasearch I discoverd the problem was in the contamination of the fluid in changing the hose. I had it back power flushed and it solved the problem. They still don't know how to do it correctly at the dealership. That is why I am asking if anyone else had this type of fuel economy problem?
The short hose between the oil reservoir and the air filter compartment has cracked on my 2000 Grand Caravan with a 3.3L engine. My engine light came on and I'm hoping that this is the problem.
Does anyone know the proper nomenclature for this hose? Is it available from a local parts place like NAPA or Autozone, or will I need to go to a dealer to get it?
Thanks in advance for any help that you can provide.
Thanks you
.Roberta
http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/a/OBD_1996_year.htm
Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected see below:
OBD-II Codes P0300 - P0399
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
P0310 Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
P0311 Cylinder 11 Misfire Detected
P0312 Cylinder 12 Misfire Detected
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0360 Ignition Coil J Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0361 Ignition Coil K Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0362 Ignition Coil L Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction
P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Many Pulses
P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Few Pulses
P0373 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A No Pulses
P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Malfunction
P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Many Pulses
P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Few Pulses
P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B No Pulses
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "B" Malfunction
P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
It discharge quickly and when I measure the current from the battery when everything is off or appears to be off it still consumes 1.5-2 amps constantly.
I have removed all fuses and relays in the fusebox in the engine compartment and it still consumes this amout of corrent.
1. is this a normal level?
2. if not, where do I start looking?
greatful for any advice.
can anyone recommend an auto salvage yard or parts supplier that would carry a replacement part?
MoparPartz.Com has one of these listed but there is no picture, so I am not sure
If I am ordering everything I need.
Thanks
It drives great on short trips but on longer ones it all of a sudden loses power and the service engine light starts blinking.It will regain power after a few but it runs rough and sputters(what's the word) it backfired a few times when this happend to my husband.
I have replaced the coil,spark plugs/wires,and the PCM..600.00 + and it's still doing the same thing.
It seems to be only when it heats to a certain temp..I don't know,I have lots of things on my list but I was hoping someone may be able to help me narrow it down a bit more.
Heres my list of potential culprates:camshaft position sensor,crankshaft sensor,
oxygen sensor,MAP sensor,fuel presure regulator, EGR and burned exhaust valve.
Really trying to save money on repairs and I do most simple repairs myself.
I have inspected all vaccum lines as well,they are ok.
Peace & Wellness
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
What does that mean?
Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 OBD DTC code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.
Symptoms may include:
the engine may be harder to start
the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
other symptoms may also be present
Causes
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plugs or wires
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector(s)
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
Faulty camshaft position sensor
Defective computer
Possible Solutions
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Peace & Wellness~
Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
What does that mean?
The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things) a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.
Symptoms
You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.
Causes
A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings
Possible Solutions
Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 code include:
Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required.
Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady).
Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2), replace if necessary
Replace the catalytic converter
One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.
is not compatable with the state's inspection computers". When you run the
reguired tests, the process quits and machine reads: TEST ABORTED. Do I need
a whole, new, more modern on-board computer or is this a fuse/fuse box fix that I should for?
Thanks for your time.
thanks