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Comments
(elroy5, maybe deewof's '03 Accord's lease was up?)
Or that poster could be like my dad who drives a 2005 Accord and has 67,000 miles on it already. By 4-years old, it will likely have 140,000 miles at this rate. I imagine he's getting ready to trade in his car soon (my dad). He rarely keeps a car over 70 or 80 thousand miles. (it's not that they've developed issues, he just wants something new by then).
If the car had been sitting quite a while - especially in damp weather, maybe there could've been a thick enough rust layer on the rear cast iron rotors to account for the scraping noise you noted. Also possible the parking brake hadn't been completely released. (Most cars with four wheel disc brakes use an auxilliary "top-hat" drum cast integrally with the hub of the rear rotors for parking brake service. Not Honda Accords. March-to-the-beat-of-a-different-drummer Honda uses a clever mechanical system to apply rear pad pressure directly against the rotor facings when the parking brake is set. The only other car I've owned that used a similar principle was a Peugeot 505.) The "droon" sound (? - is that anything like a "droning" sound?) in the range of 1300-1600 RPM - I'm guessing perhaps an exhaust and/or unsuppressed body shell resonance. At 38-40 mph, were you in 5th gear overdrive by any chance? If you were driving a car with the 2.4L I4 engine and manual transaxle, you might've been "crowding" the engine's low end torque if the engine speed dropped much under 2000 RPM while accelerating (or maintaining speed on an incline). If there was any bucking or ignition pinging, you were definitely lugging the engine.
The guys are always surprised when they see me pull out the tire gauge and the thermometer for the a/c vent. The salesman said the pulsation/vibration in the brake is the antilock brakes telling me its safe to steer to the left or the right. Any COMMENTS???
I admit this is the first time hearing of this issue with the 4-cyl. You should have years of trouble free operation with that engine + trans setup (stay away from the V6's).
It is also my experience that Honda Accords pull to the right based upon owning a 2003 & a co-worker's '03 LX. Our cars never could be aligned properly.
After buying 2 new cars in the past 4 years, I came to the realization that the bulletproof Japanese cars built in the late 80's & early 90's (Honda & Toyota) will never exist again. Those cars only required gas & oil changes. I don't think there is a perfect car out there...you can only try to minimize buying problems with forums like this.
Personally, my next new car will be a basic Accord or maybe the CRV LX. I've learned my lesson buying the top-of-the line models with inherently more reliability issues.
IMO for the money, the 2007 Accord SE is probably the best sedan on the market right now. It is in its last year of production before the '08 redesign comes out & should have the major bugs worked out. Also, the 4-cyl Accords get great gas mileage.
Excuse me, I own an 03 Accord EX V6, and I think it is much improved over previous generation Accords (no problems at all). The car is smoother, roomier, and more powerful than the Accords that came before it. What do you think is wrong with the V6 top of the line models? No bugs here.
1. Transmission failed at 45k miles.
2. Front tie rod ends replaced around 40k miles (steering column jiggle).
3. Rear struts blown & replaced around 40-45k miles.
4. Side curtain airbags reinstalled around 10k (creaking noises).
5. Headliner removed & replaced at delivery(ink marks from factory).
6. Unresolved popping noises from front end (some reported defective welds).
All were legitimate complaints acknowledged by the dealership. I traded the car in April but still have the piles of paperwork. So...I am justified in saying my car had bugs.
Also, it is a known fact that V6 equipped Honda cars had defective transmissions. Didn't you take yours in for the oil jet recall? Keep your fingers crossed.
32 mpg 1st tank
34.5 mpg break-in
34.3 mpg break-in
33 mpg
33.2 mpg 10/21/2006
34.2 mpg 10/28/2006
31.8 mpg 11/5/2006
32.5 mpg 11/13/2006
32.8 mpg 11/22/2006
Honda issued a service advisery in August of this year concerning a similar noise in some '05 Accords. Read the description below (or go to the linked URL above) and post if this sounds like what you experienced. Sounds to me like a few samples of current production are still arriving "haunted"...
"Front Speakers Growl or Hum with Radio On or Off
Got a ’05 Accord Hybrid with front audio speakers that growl, rumble, boom, or hum whether the radio is turned on or off? A bad active noise cancellation (ANC) unit could be the culprit. You only hear this noise when the ECO (fuel economy) indicator is on. And you’re most likely to hear it when you’re going between 30 and 60 mph (with the A/T in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear), the engine is running between 1,600 and 1,800 rpm, or both. To fix this problem, refer to S/B 06-005, Humming or Booming Comes From the Speakers, and replace the ANC unit and both front speakers."
Honda's website is absolutely no help in this, as all of its gallery photos are of the EX-L. And, believe it or not, I just called a Honda dealer, and they couldn't answer my question either - which, I must say, is rather shocking.
On my first tank of gas, I got 18.2 mpg, which I felt, was on the low side, considering the advertised ratings 24/34 (city/hwy) ( http://automobiles.honda.com/models/specifications_full_specs.asp?ModelName=Acco- rd+Sedan&Category=3 )
Is this cause for concern? What could be the reasons for getting a lower mileage.. I fill gas at Costco ( 87 octane - the dealer adviced me this should be okay)..
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
NK
Also keep in mind that the mpg ratings are measured by an EPA standarized test done on a computerized treadmill. They have no relationship to real world conditions IMHO.
These are the small details which Honda always included in previous years. Honda is excellent when it comes to "attention to detail." Recently they seem to have been cutting back on these small, somewhat trivial, items, but one's that can impact a buyer positively. I guess it's all due to the ever increasing cost of manufacturing and the competitive marketplace to keep prices down??
He also got 33 to 34 for the first tank, but it kept going up - and he put a little extra air in the tires as well.
I had about 5 miles on the car when I drove it off the lot and the rest is mostly city driving..
- NK
It's been drummed in previously but bears repeating - you get zero miles-per-gallon when you're stopped at an intersection or jammed in gridlock. elroy5 brought up a point previously that might also apply: some Accords are delivered from the factory with the parking brake cables are adjusted a bit too tightly. The result is that the rear pads drag against their rotors even with the parking brake lever released. If such is the case with your car, it obviously wouldn't favor maximum fuel economy. Might wanna have your dealership's service department check for this and adjust Accordingly. (couldn't resist the bad pun - if it weren't for bad puns, I wouldn't have any pun at all... )
Really appreciate all this helpful advice.
- NK
thanks
Jim
Get out.
Set the alarm.
Reach inside and open the door.
The alarm doesn't know the difference between an open window and someone breaking a window out.
Enjoy
http://www.carspace.com/videos/play!id=.59cc661e
Odie
Odie's Carspace
Recently however I have noticed a popping sound coming from the drivers side front dash area. It occures mostly when first accelerating and stopping and sometime when crusing and hitting an uneven patch of road. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this and what a potential fix might be. I will be scheduling my first service interval soon and would like to have some information to present to the tech. Also any TSB would be helpful.
Not exactly in order, but it will give you what you want. This is the "severe schedule" I4 engine.
Or, change the oil and filter every 4,000 miles and you can't go wrong.
Not much else on a Honda to do.
Has anyone done oil analysis on their first oil change?
Don't worry, they are telling you right.
That's what I incline to think too. And it's my practice also to do the first oil change early. But maybe Honda's machining IS different? Since Honda's website specifically says to leave the initial oil in for enough time, maybe that has some merit that escapes my limited understanding in engineering. Could someone give me a scientific rational besides just empirical observations and trust in Honda?