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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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At any rate, my pull problems have self cured somehow but I am keeping an eye on the tires anyway.
Mississippi,to Cal,Vegas,and many other points.Here's what I
have to say.The MPV 2000 LX performed almost flawlessly.The
only problem was my own fault,by not getting the" popping
sound" fixed before I went.When we got to Vegas and the temp
got 111,the popping got so loud you could hear it over the
radio.BUT other than that wow was I impressed.mileage worst
case,22mpg,but most of that was in the mountains.Best case
25.9mpg,about three tanks,most of time around
24mpg.Confort,great ,never got sore or stiff,driver side confort
was really great,sometimes drove for 12 hours.Power,no
problem even in the mountains,just truned off O/D.For those of
you that don't know,comming out of southern Cal.on Interstate
15 there is an incline that lasts 16 miles,many people were
down on the side of the road,but my MPV never got higher than
half on temperature gauge.Temperatures were over 100.I went
from desert to 9000 feet on Tioga pass so we had a big run of
conditions.Really happy with whole trip.Oh getting tie rods
changed this week.Follow up--Had tie-rods replaced,nomore popping.
This appears to be a known issue of front brake pads... There is a TSB on that. Someone already posted about this before.
There is another issue involving inner tie rods poping. Also should be fixed by the dealer.
I hope this helps.
---
Alex
MPV Community Web site
MPV Mailing List
It also gives the Mazda the best reliablity of all mini vans, in one of their charts in the newest consumer reports. the HOnda comes in like 6th for reliablity. Take into account that chart is made up of one years data on the Mazda though.
I too have some problems with the way they rated the MPV on the edmunds site.
A few things in particular, that I seem to recall on the edmund site or a combined thought from other sites were :
1. ABS is'nt available? Maybe they were looking at the wrong van.
2. Don't like it because it doesnt have remote sliding doors, what the heck good is that.
3. Then comparing the price to the Honda theres a 350.00 difference why buy the Mazda they state. It almost appears to me that they compare the low end Mazda to the HIgh end Honda, but when it comes to price they use the high end Mazda, I may be wrong here. But your talking about 7k in price difference.
4. Lousey gas mileage, excuse me but I'm pretty sure its either the same or 1/2 mpg less then the Honda. It also appears to me they were riding the Mazda rough to check the horsepower out. Its stated tons of times on the boards that you should'nt push the Mazda that way. I'm sure that effected the fuel economy. Needless to say I think this was a useless result.
5. The engine might me smaller then the Honda and Toyota, but the Mazda wieghts about 800 lbs lighter. Regardless of engine size I expect better engines from Honda and Toyota, basically because they have been the king of making efficent engines for years. I'm pretty sure everyone else is still playing catchup.
The only real problem I see with the Mazda is that it uses a Ford engine this of course is a negative. Theres no two ways about that.
Now that I said my peace, all of the above still does'nt make me go out and buy a Mazda yet, I'm in no rush to buy anything right now. But the Mazda is probally 1 of 3 that I'm thinking about.
Sometimes all these sites are concerned with is engine size, they also tend to like everything that comes out of Honda or Toyota, which is ok since i own a Toyota and Acura now. But don't take a lot of what they say seriously. I assume they had to find something wrong with the others just to make up a list.
Having said all that, I did hear the dreaded popping sound from the front end once while backing out of a parking lot in hot weather. We are leaving for Montana in a week so I am concerned about having problems on the road with the inner tie rods. I called the dealer and described the problem and even gave him the tech bulleting above. They said they would actually have to hear the popping sound themselves before they would be able to diagnose the problem and fix it. Since there is no recall out on this problem, they felt no obligation to go ahead and repair it on my word. They also said that they had never had a van in to fix this problem. I then caledl the Mazda customer service hotline.I basically got the same story from them. I told them that since it was a sporadic problem that occurs when the van is hot and at low speeds, most likely a dealer would not be able to hear it unless they took it on the road for an extensive drive. Finally I asked him if it was safe to drive the van on a long trip without having this fixed. He said that since there was no recall he would assume it was. He did tell me that he would check with the safety engineer and give me a call back. I'm still waiting for the call.
To those of you that got this fixed, was the dealer able to duplicate the problem or did they just fix it based on the Tech bulletin. Both the dealer service guy and the customer service rep acted like they had never heard of this problem.
The tech Bulletin is enough to confirm your story, if you ask me.
My wife and I would highly recommend this van to any family. We have two toddlers and find the Mazda's features a perfect match for our needs. It was all at a pretty darn good price too!
We had 3 things wrong with the van after we picked it up. These problems should have been easy to fix but the dealer seemed hopelessly incompetent. Eventually they got it right but it did take them many more days then it should have. None of that was Mazda's fault however.
First was a shredded rear seat belt. They ordered the wrong belt twice.
Second, the exterior passenger side door lock fell into the door. They fixed this OK and told us the lock washer used to hold it in place was faulty.
Third and most annoying, the compartment that holds your sunglasses kept opening while we were driving. They could not fix this and after while I demanded they order a whole new unit. They did case closed.
We have not had a single thing else go wrong in the year we have had it. This van has many positives.
The top of the list has to be how easy it drives. Just like a car, dart around forgetting were in a van. Many other things come to mind too, the great ride, comfort of the seats (I'm 6'4" and don't ever complain about the seats), third row magic seat saves a lot of time and hassle, being able to put the sliding door windows down has kept my kids happy, its good looking, the captain chairs are easy to move around for those days of sibling rivalry, its a nice van!!
The acceleration is good. If you are considering buying an MPV and are discouraged by the overly biased moronic writings of auto journalists (including the Edmunds guys) who seem to base the eval of MPV solely on horsepower: Remember the MPV weighs 1000 pounds less then most of its competitors. Do the math guys. But don't take my word for it. GO TEST DRIVE ONE. You won't be disappointed.
One of the the only negative things I can say about the van is the fit and finish. We have a large amount of nicks and dings particularly on the top of the back bumper. It wasn't long before I had a can of touch up paint to fill in these chips. It seems like a process I will repeat for the life of the van.
I would recommend this van to other families. Are other vans competitive? Yes. Can you get a another van with the comfort, reliability, and COST of this one. I don't think so!
One thing the evil auto journalists fail to mention is the actual cost one can purchase the van. Try an get a Honda for MSRP, it won't happen. With a little savvy one can purchase a MPV at or even below invoice. You just can't beat that value.
Carman
I agreed with another writer that some of the dealers are "hopelessly incompetent". My pulling problem is not fixed after four tries. (After three times still pulls left, now it pulls right!)If they can not execute on such a simple fix, how can you trust them on bigger repairs??
I saw a 2001 LX the other day on the street, it looks better than mine (because it rides higher). It has higher ground clearance, check the space between the top of tire and the body.
For those who would like to buy this van, I think Mazda has probably corrected the problems on the 2001 van. And if money is no object, go get the 2001 van. And you will probably be spared of the many fustration and time wasted I have endured on mine. Good luck.
Bulletin No: 02-001/01
2000 MPV - Knocking Noise At Front Of Vehicle
APPLICABLE MODELS
2000 MPV with VIN lower than JM3 LW28** Y0 137197.
DESCRIPTION
While traveling long distances during high ambient temperatures
a knocking noise is heard from the front of the
vehicle with a slight floor vibration. This condition usually occurs
at less than 15 MPH. This concern may be caused
by internal binding of the ball joint on the inner tie-rod ends of
the steering rack during hot power steering fluid temperature
conditions.
--------------------Mileage does not seem to change things.I had 15000 on mine when i took my 4000 mile trip.But as i said before,the hotter it gets the louder the noise gets.And when it was 100 degrees the noise was at any speed,if you applied the brakes or accelerated or decellerated or turned.The ties rods must have been the problem,because mine is completly gone,and it's in the 90's here in MS.Good Luck folks.
--javadoc
I guess I'll hand them the keys and tell them to have a nice trip!
By the way, I had my mechanic visually check the tie rods during an oil change and they were nice and tight so he could not see any problem. It is not an obvious problem unless it starts making the noise. If I hadn't gone to Texas I probably would have never heard it since up here in Western NC it never gets real hot.
The 3.0L version, rumored to be in the 2002 MPV, is used very successfully in the Lincoln LS. If you question this, check into the Lincoln LS forum here on Edmunds.
What may have been true several years ago, just isn't true now.
I guess those stigmas hang on a long time, like the "Unintended Acceleration" issue on 1980s turbo-Audi cars. That stigma hurt the company for years for no real reason except perception.
--java
I think you hit it. The 3.8 pushrod engine was designed by a whole different generation of engineers and management than the DOHC, 21-st century Duratec. Many owners had a less than desirable experience with the old 3.8.
Aluminum Block and Heads, for the most part. The block is built using a design that Ford sought help from Cosworth (well known for small, high output engines.)
The Duratec block has a cast-in iron sleve in each cylinder.
There are Contour owners who have over 100K on the clock using the same engine, so 150k+ is possible.
Just use quality oil filters such as the original Motorcraft F820S or the K&N2010 (higher flow rate) and you should be fine.
The one thing you have to watch is the water pump. The factory pumps have a plastic impeller and they tend to crack and become ineffective. It's pretty easy to change, so I plan to do them at 50K as part of the cooling system maintenance.
If you go to an "Iffy Lube" kinda place, make sure they know the oil refill capacity. I personally like to do my oil changes myself, so I know it gets done right.
Cheers,
TB
Is the current engine used in another car or truck that ford or mazda sells. I would like to see past history if I can. The only car that I could find that uses the same size engine is the new mazda 626, but I have no idea if thats the same engine.
Thanks
Thanks to vtac1 for posting text of TSB. Mine goes in on Monday for noise. Service manager claimed he hadn't heard of TSB on this. Will certainly bring copy of the posting.
BTW, does anyone have a TSB number on that problem?
TBoner, what are the similarities of the 2.5 and the 3.0? Are they the same block, just different bore/stroke etc? Same/diff heads? Some makers use better heads on their smaller motors (i.e. the 2.5) to make better power; is this the case with the Duratec also, such as the 3.0 might have a milder head?
--java
The 3.0L has the same external block dimensions and the same stroke, but it has a larger bore. It is not just a "bored-out" or "stroked" 2.5L, it is a seperate casting.
Prior to 2000, the 3L cylinder heads did not incorporate a camshaft driven water pump, but in 2001, the same engine packaging is used for both the 2.5L and 3.0L Duratecs. So expect the 2001+ 3L to have the same water pump issues.
The 2.5L heads have a smaller combustion chamber. That is why the 3.0L block and 2.5L heads, (especially the SVT heads) make such a desirable combination. You get an even higher compression ratio with that combination. So we are talking somewhere in the neighborhood of 225 to 250 HP depending on what other things you might do to the heads (such as some more porting and polish work) Of course the SVT benefits from some more aggressive camshafts and a lightened flywheel, not to mention the extrude hone work done on the intake manifolds.
The V6 in the Lincoln LS is a (from the best of my knowledge) a derivative of the Duratec, the DAMB, but packaged for RWD.
Well, this weekend is three days full of overtime. (Gotta pay for the SVT toys somehow, like some Koni struts and Eibach springs)
See the new O.Z. wheels and Firestone Tires at http://tlcc2000.dyndns.org/ContourPics/2001-06-23-01-SVT.jpg
TB
thx for the info on the diffs/sims of the two Duratecs.
--java
Hey, I justed filled up at .99, for 87 octane, no joke. Don't get use to it guys!
--j
p.s. can't be a bad thing that the prob thread is dull.
I wonder if the wrong oil is being used like maybe a 10w40 that is to thick, thereby causing a stuck pressure reg. valve.
I'm coming up on my first oil change in a couple weeks (I do my own) and I'm really paranoid about this happening to me.
Does anyone have any more info as to what could be the cause of this problem?
I actually enjoy doing it myself at home on a Saturday. But I would probably not get much enjoyment from having to fight with the dealer if my oil dumps and the engine seizes.
msgjvh- thanks for the suggestions. It seems like everyone who has used the K&N filter is impressed by it so I'll probably go that route as well.
Although I'm still unsure if this is a filter problem or something with the oil pump pressure regulator valve.
The oil vis will NOT cause a filter blowout, fluid dynamics (noncompressible liquid) mean eve water can cause a blowout.
Use a major brand oil, syn is good in some climates, but of limited measurable/meaningful benefit to many users in othe conditions. Heck I use it, but dont "need" it! Oil is cheap, vans are not...(I do work for an oil company 'tho)
Use a box wrench or snug rachet on drain plug (it rounds-off easily --- been there done that!).
Keep the receipts & log of your work.
Check for leaks after you are done, and engine is running.
Relax...
Merritt
MPV Owner, S.T.L.E. Certified Lubrication Specialist [CLS](tm), and Engineer
Bye the way Sams wholesale and Costco I think sell extended warrenties pretty cheap I heard, if anyone is interested.
While I agree with your statement to a certain extent, it leaves out the fact that increased viscosity oil requires more force to move at similar flow rates than a reduced viscosity oil. Also, when you pass oil through the filter membrane, thicker oils require more force to flow at the same rate. That being the case, if the pressure relief valve was faulty, increasing the viscosity would only make things worse.
Change your oil and filter( Mazda aka. motorcraft or K&N ) every 5000 miles, under normal conditions. If you change your filter yourself, make sure you tighten with a wrench, no hand tightening. I don't recommend going to Quickie oil change shops, terrible quality filters. Check your fluids regularly, don't red line your MPV and use 5w oil. Be a smart owner, not a worry wart.
Let's not be paranoid, drive your van and enjoy. How can you enjoy life worrying about something that probably will never happen.
This also goes for purchasing a new car. Another MPV forum some prospective MPV owner's are going crazy trying to save every last cent. I've given people some advice, when they asked. But to beat a deadhorse and worry about a few bucks and if the MPV is better than such and such, is a waste of time and energy.
Do your research....price, finance, test drive, what's best for your family and relax.
GOOD RESEARCH relieves stress!
On the subject of automatic transmissions, I have also several times experienced the free-revving of the engine, presumably due to reluctant shifting or transmission slippage. Of course it does not happen consistently, so the dealership (which has never heard of this happening--yeah, right!) cannot duplicate it. I am planning to change over to synthetic ATF at my next dealership-performed oil change (also synthetic), but am concerned about the possibility of wasting the expensive ATF if something is truly wrong with my automatic transmission warranting repair or replacement.
My MPV is a '00 MPV ES, with 21,800 loving miles (though I'd probably love it even more with the bigger engine).
Thanks in advance for any insight or advice.
With an automatic, when you stop the vehicle, particularly on an incline, with your foot still on the brake, put the emergency (hand) brake on, THEN put it into park. That way the brake is holding the vehicle in place and not the transmission. It really does make a difference when you move again.
Thanks.
I took the vehicle in for an oil change at the dealer (@1200 miles) and asked them to check the "transmission" for this problem. They of course claimed they could not reproduce it. The more I think about it, I think it might actually be a fuel problem, not a transmission problem.
Anyone else experiencing similar issues? Anyone who knows more about cars (probably everyone reading) care to take a stab at the fuel supply theory?
Thanks in advance,
John
Also, it is pretty well agreed upon that the tranny in the MPV is not the smoothest in the business, until you learn the shift patterns/techniques. I unconciously now lift my foot a hair during some shifts to smooth out the shift, and the new synthetic fluid helps too (wait till at least 15k miles tho). I didn't think I was actually doing this until Friday when I caught myself in the act.
Hope this helped,
--Javadoc
1) I love my MPV, but found 1 area that really disappointed me. Having 4 kids, I was concern about the size before we purchased it. After 7 months and 16,677 miles (trip to Disney from Pittsburgh), it seems the right size for day-to-day driving. But last week, I stopped at Penney’s to pickup a set of curtain rod for my parents. I laid the boxes flat in the trunk of my Mazda Protégé. A day later I took the kids to my parents in The MPV and the boxes didn’t fit in the MPV flat. I couldn’t believe my eyes. I had to look at the trunk again to see why it fit in a small car but not a Minivan. My wife complains when she tries to put a bike in the back. Hopefully, Mazda reads these post and the future MPV cargo hold will be designed like the Protégé’
2) Who posted the photo of the dirty air filter? I am going to replace mine in a few days or so. Was it easy to do and how long did it take? (Whatever happened to the old wing nut that you would spin off, lift off cover, replace filter, etc, taking about 2 minutes to do!). On the Voyager, I darn near sliced my finger taking the cover off the first time I changed the filter.