Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

heythere

I drive a 2000 Ford CV Police Interceptor at work. I have noticed that at speeds over 70-80 mph the buzz in the dashboard. The car has less than 3000 miles on it, and it seems the faster you go, the louder and more disconcerting the buzz gets.

bthomp

The cowl panel is the plastic piece below the windshield. It's composed of two plastic pieces that are screwed down and attached to the windshield w/adhesive. Check to see if there is some play in that. I've got 40k on my 98CV P74 and no noises except the engine at WOT :-)

speck4

My new 2000 Grand Marquis's drivers seat is very uncomfortable. The seat back leans to the right. Have had it back to the dealer twice. Can't seem to fix it. Took it back again today. Anyone elsse have this problem? Any suggestions
Ray

cebuano

If you've taken it in multiple times with no fix, then the lemon law my apply in your case.

rea98d

The lemon law (in Texas at least) applies only to major problems. I doubt a seat would qualify. If all else fails, lean on your dealer until he replaces the seat.

allterrain

I have a 92 gm that I bought in March, just love it. Will be heading soon into a nasty northern Iowa winter and was wondering if anyone on this site could possibly let me know if putting a pair of Blizzaks on the rear for the season would help out a lot. The car has neither traction control or anti-lock brakes. I am an experienced rwd driver and have firestone supremes on now, but was just wanting to know how big a difference good old-fashioned snow tires make on the rear. Give me all your thoughts.

stthomas

allterrain,
Though I'm now driving a '99 with T/C and ABS, I'll be buying 4 add'l wheels and 4 Michelin Pilot Alpins or Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50s.
I drove an '86 CV (police pkg + limited-slip differential, but no T/C or ABS) until a few months ago and had over the past several years driven a set of 4 studded Firestones, Blizzak WS-15s, and Michelin Arctic Alpins. The Studs are VERY noisy, so I'd recommend the Blizzaks, which were the best glare ice tires I've driven (they're truly amazing!). The Arctic Alpins are very good too -- I tried them after the Blizzaks wore out because the Blizzaks wear quickly and had fairly sloppy handling. The Arctic Alpins handled much better at the expense of some ice traction.
I was MUCH better off than most of the other vehicles on the road, especially when it came to stopping on icy roads. Check out tirerack.com for their reviews.
P.S. I'm in Colorado, but drive on lots of icy
roads since I'm living in the foothills.

Hacksaw

... you should use FOUR winter tires.

Remember, the rear wheels only get you going. Some places this might be good enough, but not in Iowa if you're going to be doing any serious driving. Snow tires on the front are a tremendous advantage in braking, and do a much better job of keeping the car going in the direction that your wheels are turned.

Believe me-- the difference is night and day. I do alot of driving in the Pocono Mountain area of Pennsylvania and I know what good (and bad) tires can do. This goes for people in FWD and AWD too, who I frequently wind up helping since their all-seasons just don't cut it in ice and snow.

What tires to buy? Some dealers will only sell the Blizzak's and the Alpin's in sets of four, since that's what the manufacturer recommends. Both of those names have done very well, but the tread does tend to wear fast.

For my 98CV I went with a set of Nokian Hakka 1's.
Imported from Finland, they're touted as one of the best snow tires in the world. These tires and made for climates where sub-zero weather, deep snow and ice are just normal everyday winter conditions.

I thought they would be expensive, but I got a set of 225/60R16's delivered to my door for just over $100/tire. That's better than what Bridgestone and Michelein have to offer, and these Nokains are made like iron and last MUCH longer.

For a 92 GM you won't need 16" tires, so you can probably do considerably better. Let me know if you need help finding a mail-order dealer.
www.nokiantyres.com.

If you're going to try to get by on two and hope you don't have to stop on a hill, I'd recommend using a traditional studded tire such as the Firestone Winterfire. These tires tend to be readily available, affordable, and offer decent traction.

tpken

For the past 7 winters, driving 2 Grand Marquis in Maine and through the rest of the Northeast, I have put 2 studded Goodyear or Sears snows on the back, with the best of my all seasons on the front and have NO problems in ice or snow. Of course we've had some pretty mild winters lately too - but even so, I've passed ditched Explorers and Cherokees galore that could not handle the simplest freezing rain which is common here and felt quite secure for the minor investment of 3 sets of these studded tires over the past 7 years. True, the studs wear down after the first year and the tires are a bit noisy but it hasn't bothered me. I think I will investigate Hacksaw's suggestion on the Nokians next time I need replacements.

I see that many of the tire shops will only sell sets of 4 these days - is this a new law or the manufacturers joint decision to avoid potential lawsuits - anyone know? I suspect in the aftermath of "Tiregate" many of us will be investigating the track record of tire manufacturers before slapping new shoes on the family chariot.

iusecad

how many miles do the winter tires last? I'd be tempted to just go with a really good all season that'll last 50k miles; and just drive like a grandma on Sunday if the roads are snowy... that's all my Vic's ever had and except for my driveway, I've been able to go anywhere I had to. (the end of my driveway drifts over quite deep)

aquanomics

I just brought home a 2000 Crown Vic. No H/P, but the price was too good to pass up.

I want to replace the wheels/tires with aftermarket alloys and speed rated tires. We drive all summer throught the Mojave desert (120 F in the shade and there ain't none).

Can the Informed recommend sources for alloys and tires? I'm having a devil of a time finding stock wheels -- in a style I like -- and tires to fit.

Thanks,

Phil

tpken

I have gotten around 25K (3 winters) out of my studded tires before replacing them - the tread wasn't all used up but after that long the studs are worn off. the Goodyrs I had before these Sears were pretty good - I forget the tire series designation.

We get a bit of ice around here - especially on the gravel lane I live on with a little hill to deal with coming out of the driveway - those studs get me thru every time.

iusecad

studded tires have sharp knobs instead of smooth blocks of rubber, like on regular tires? is that right? or are they studs like on a snowmobile track? (the carbide spikes that'll tenderize your steaks real quick!) ;-)

ugh. I don't even want to think about winter...

allterrain

Thanks for all the great responses on winter driving tire tips. Hacksaw, I would surely be interested in mail order dealers. Do they have websites? If so I would like some of them. I just checked most of the local tire dealers and they look at me kinda funny when I say I would like a pair of Michelin artic alpins. Wal Mart included, so please e-mail me some of those mail order dealers at kentnang@rconnect.com. I did check out the nokian tires site you mentioned and would be interested in a pair. I just saw hakka 2's on the website but hey they look super!!!!!

Hacksaw

Studs are basically mini steel screws that are driven into the tire. They press into the road and wear down as the tire does. Usually the snow tires with the "big chunks" of rubber get these kind of studs (which are illegal in some states because they chew up the roads).

Other types of snow tires are studless, and they usually have some kind of rubber tread that tries to do the same thing. This would be like the Blizzak and the Alpin.

Keep in mind that steel studs only help you in the ice; they actually reduce your traction in wet weather. I'm still happy with the traction I get on my rear wheels with the steel studs, but I'd never consider putting studs on all four wheels.

iusecad

that's kind of what I thought; tho I kind of figured steel studs would be banned on any hiway because of the reason you stated. I know they are in MN and even some snowmobile trails don't allow sleds with studded tracks!

I probably wouldn't know how to drive with them anyway...

jim_hill

September 15, 2000

Hi everyone.

I just bought a used 1999 Grand Marquis LS with 22,500 miles that is in beautiful shape. No scratches, upholstery clean, almost smells new, brakes in great shape, etc. When we test drove it we went up to a maximum of 50 mph due to roads and conditions. No problems.

Just drove the car on the freeway and was able to go up to 70. No problems with power or car ride.
However, starting about 55-60 mph there is a wind type noise that starts in the right side of the front of the car. This sound does not exist at lower speeds.

My suspicion is that it may be have one or two sources: (a)the gasket around the right side of the windshield by not be set properly and there is a slight amount of air leakage that only occurs at higher air speeds; or (b) there is something happening with air vents.

Has anyone else had the problem I described and if so, what was the solution? Are these types of problems typically handled under manufacturers warranty?

Also, would you buy the extended warranty package?

thanks
Jim Hill

kinley

the extended warranty package is the most profitable item for the seller and the cost is very negotiable as the dealer's cost is $150 + or - $50.00. Read the owner manual & see where the coverage is duplicated.

mamna

I have a 1991 grand marquis which rides nice. Overall, would have to say it was a good purchase. I am trying to find some repair information on the car, and hoped some one here might be able to assist.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can find what the pressure is for the fuel injection rail of a 1991 grand marquis? Also, any thoughts on where I might be able to get a picture of the timing marks on the fly wheel?

Thanks for your time

swong1

the 1991 model year gm/cv was the last of the pushrod 5.0L and on cold startup the oil pressure would be around 50-55psi typically. Once the engine warms up the oil pressure would drop to around 35psi at idle. Starting in 1992, Ford/Mercury changed over to the new 4.6L sohc hence you have the last of the 5.0L pushrod eight's.

iusecad

according to the Haynes manual for 88-96 CV's & GM's I have, it says:

Fuel system pressure with key on, engine off: 35 to 45 psi

Fuel system pressure (at idle)
Vacuum hose attached: 30 to 45 psi
Vacuum hose detached: 40 to 50 psi

Fuel system hold pressure (after 5 minutes): 30 to 40 psi

Fuel pump pressure max: 65 psi

Fuel pump hold pressure: 50 psi

IMO I prefer the 5L to the 4.6L; but Chevy did away with their 5L too, so, who am I to say?

lotboy

Yes I do work at the plant where the Crown Vic and Grand Marquis are made.

I heard it wasn't until '07 for the change on these cars.Hopefully 2006,I think the sooner the better for us.
Have a good evening Troy!

DD

bdavis8

Jim check response #465 from bthomp. I suspect this may be your problem. I have read this forum many times and the problem has been mentioned many times. Hope this helps.

timbotimbo

Don't know if I should get leather or cloth seats in my new CV. I like the looks of leather but have never owned it & I don't want buy it then be bummed out afterwards. Did anybody out there own both?? What would you buy again & why??

THANKS IN ADVANCE

rea98d

I'd reccomend finding a friend with a car with leather seats, and going with them on a long trip somewhere, to really see if you like leather. (I'm pretty sure the dealerhsip won't let you take a Crown Vic out on a cross country test drive. Short trips only.) Personally, I've only had cars with cloth seats, so I can't comment on that, but I do like the fuzzy velour they put in cars in the late 70's. My Grand Marquis has those kind of seats, and they are very soft and comfortable. They were scotch-guarded at birth, and water still beads up on them after twenty years, although the fuzz is looking somewhat worn (Although leather probably would have cracked long long ago). I practically grew up in the back seat of that car and spilled just about everything imaginable back there, and still no stains!

robert98

Personally, I would go with the cloth. Leather requires more maint. and I don't think they will last as long. I swore I would not by another car with leather, but alas, that's what I ended up with. I purchased a 98 CV with the P/H and that wasn't easy to find. I just replaced the leather in my 87 T-bird. The seats had been shot for a good two years. This is in So. Cal. weather so there aren't many extremes. I just don't think you'll get the wear/life out of the leather. cloth is also much nicer to set on in either cold or hot weather. That's just my opinion.

geobarb

alltrrain,
Until last year, I had a Grand Marq and ran Goodyear Town & Country snows in the winter. They were great. Quiet on dry roads, but had very good traction. (I also carried 100lb of rocks up over the rear axle.) Like someone else said, by driving carefully I even passed 4WD SUVs on some roads. I only wish that I had ordered a limited slip on that car.

In the early 80s I had a FWD Chrysler with the four snows, and would not have full snows on the front wheels again. It really handled poorly on dry roads.

Since last year, I've had a FWD Taurus. Not a bad car, but I really miss the GM ride and engine. I heard that the new Sable/Taurus cars are better, but are they up to the level of the GM/CVics?
Thanks

tpken

Having 500K miles under my buns over past 20 yrs, here is my personal opinion of leather vs cloth in the (14) cars I have owned:

Leather has a very pleasant aroma that greets you as you enter the car and makes for a nice ambiance - until it becomes cracked and worn looking over many years of use. The temperature variance is noticeable in extreme hot and cold although the leather warms to your body far more easily than the old vinyl seats of yesteryear ever did. Warm weather heats up the seats to the point that you may notice back perspiration even after the interior has cooled down with a/c. Still - it won't fry the back of your legs like that old vinyl did. In the Cr Vic/GM you may find yourself slipping from side to side in turns since the seats offer very little (read that no) latteral support. That's what the armrests are there for! But if your posterior is of typical American middle aged proportions (read that wide) you may not notice a problem here. The calorically challenged tend to slide around a bit more! Have you heard Boston's PBS Car Talk radio broadcast on the new 'Pinkwater' posterior dimension - a super show and particularly funny episode.

Cloth is very comfortable feeling in all weather, grips your pants a lot better during those highway exit turns and, with the scotchguard treatment, usually does not get stained too bad over years of service. I've had my 3 kids, now ages 8-11, growing up in the back seat of my 2 Grand Marquis ( how does one make the plural here?), a Taurus wagon and now a Suburban - all cloth upholstered without too many serious clean-ups. Now the carpeting is another story entirely! The aroma is missing (unless you count the smell of spilled coffee, coke etc on that floor)

I would enjoy the leather in a well constructed bucket seat and would try the aftermarket sheepskin covers for uncomfortable extremes. My next vehicle may be a mid-sized sedan - perhaps Accord V6, Maxima GLE or possibly Lincoln LS - all offering comfortable leather seating. If I bought another GM or Cr Vic - cloth would be my preference.

BTW - I'm the guy with the studded snows that has passed SUVs and FWDs galore in the snowy ditches of Mass, NH and Maine during my daily carpool commute. Think I'll send for a vanity plate for my GM "studpool" - what do you guys think?

Hope this was interesting/amusing reading to some of your guys, particularly Timbotimbo. Great forum - - let's keep the dialogue going.

Turnpike Ken

andor1

I just picked up my 2000 GM on Saturday. THe Salesman told me I do not need snow tires around here (Boston area) because I have traction control. I had some pretty good luck with my 85 GM in the snow by using snow tires and cinder blocks and also have passed SUV's stuck in the snow over the last couple of years. So please give me your suggestions. should I or should I not get snow tires for my new car or should I just add the cinder blocks. Your comments will be much appreciated. thanks.

kinley

is to cloth as CD's are to tapes. We had an 82 T/C with leather for 12 years and it was like day one when a friend bought it with 125,000 miles. When it's cold outside, the leather is cold as well. Nobody puts sheepskins on cloth. They don't need to. For some reason used buyers prefer leather. Not having skins for the leather, beach towels have been known to grace our new T/C. Tacky, but not "sticky" in hot weather.

rea98d

Leather is to cloth as CD's are to tapes? Strange, I didn't know leather seats suddenly made cloth obsolete. Lot's of people still like cloth seats, which is something which cannot honestly be said of tapes (they're cheaper, that's it) (unless the person saying it wears tie-dye and gogo boots).

iusecad

I agree leather does smell good; and it's much easier to slide in and out with it. However, my dad has a '99 Superduty w/ beige leather and you can stain it just by looking at it.

Maybe it's that 10w30 he uses on his hair?

the dark red cloth of my '90 Vic still looks (near) perfect. I think the darker color interiors are the best way to go. Especially if you have a garage or can tint your windows.

kinley

WHEN?

timbotimbo

Just wanted to thank everyone for responding to the "leather vs. cloth" question. I currently own an 89CV with 130K miles & cloth seats that still look practically new. If I order a new one I decided to go with cloth based on your responses.
Its just that all the loaded CVs & GMs that I'm seeing at the dealerships have leather seats. I guess I was just trying to talk myself into them.

Now that I decided on the seats-----I think I would also like to have a moonroof(aftermarket) installed in my new CV or GM. Would that be stupid in that I would be reducing its value & asking for trouble(leaks etc.).

Nice writing style Ken!!!!

kinley

has a "roof hole" and it is closed 90% of the time. It doesn't leak and was installed by American Sunroof Co. IMO it is like having a rear trunk mounted wing - fadish. After market MB Quart speakers would attract my dollar rather than a roof hole, they work, rain or shine.

ams17

I am going to purchase a 2000 GM with the p/h package. The dealer has 2 available one with abs/traction control and one without. I can get a better deal on the one without but am not sure if the abs/tc would be the better choice. Has anyone had any experience driving the GM without abs/tc in the snow. I grew up driving big rear wheel drive cars long before abs and t/c was even heard of. Would I be making a mistake in not buying the car with abs/tc?

kinley

Our T Bird does not have TC and because we do have TC on our Towncar, I miss it on the T Bird especially when negotiating sharp uphill turns from a stop on wet blacktop. The Bird just spins the RR wheel if you give it too much gas. Traction Control is very much appreciated & I think you will like it.

mhlii

When I took my Lincoln in for service, the dealer gave me a free rental, The rental was stripped down w/no options. Ofcorse it snowed that night and after 5 minutes on the road I was sure I would never make it home that night. My Lincoln had the ABS T/C system and this one did not. The car would not even make it up the smallest incline, and the kicker was there was only 2 inches of snow on the ground. I have driven mine w/the ABS T/C system in up to 8 inches and never had a problem! It was that experience that forever sold me on those systems. I could not belive that the same car could be so different with and without it! Hope this helps.......

rea98d

As far as ABS goes, I'd highly reccomend it. I don't know enough about traction control, because I've never had it, and live in a hot, dry climate, so I don't really need it. But with ABS, My T-Bird and Grand Marquis don't have it (the mercury was built before it was invented), but my Grandmother's Pontiac, which I drive quite a bit, does have ABS, and it is a very useful feature in accident avoidance. It's one of those systems that when you actually use the ABS to avoid hitting something, you probably won't credit the ABS, but if you don't have it and need it, you'll wish you did.

mamna

Thanks for your responses to the questions I had concerning my 1991 grand marquis.

Has anyone ever experienced this before? The airbag light on my dash blinks six times, pauses, and then blinks six times again. It does not happen all the time, but occasionally when the car is started. I was wondering if this was a code for a particular problem. Any thoughts?

Thanks again

mhlii

Yes... it is a code.. for a malfunctioning part. I forget what that one is, but I will see if I can find out for you. If not you local dealer could tell you if there that nice!!

Hacksaw

The headlights on my 98CV wouldn't turn on the other night. Everything else was fine-- turn signals, parking lights, reverse lights, interior lights, etc... I just couldn't get the low beams to go on.

I fiddled with the switch for a few minutes, but still nothing. Finally, when I played with the stalk (high beam/flash) they turned on and everything was fine after that.

Has anyone had trouble with their headlights coming on? Once I remember driving and they turned off for a quick second. It never happened again so I didn't pay much attention to it. But now it seems like something is flakey.

Anyone else?

bthomp

I once accidently hit the fuse panel on my 98 and all my lights killed when I knocked a fuse out. No problems then my self induced one:-)

rea98d

Occasionally, my 78 Grand Marquis has the lights go out on hi-beam. Switch them to lo-beam (the switch is on the floorboard. They don't do that on new Fords.), and they work fine, usually working when switching back to hi. I suspect a faulty switch, but that minor problem is way down on my glitch list. Then again, the only thing my 78 probably has in common with a 98 is the name on the bumper.

mrranchero

RE:91 grand marquis
according to my 91 shop manual 6 flashes of your light indicates possibly 4 things at fault, either
1 the air bag itself,
2 the clock spring itself,
3 an open circuit in the diagnostic monitor -connector or harness, or
4 the diagnostic monitor itself.
I hope this helps and please do not attempt to trouble shoot this your self unless you know all of the safety precautions before working on the air bag system. the air bag could be accidentally deployed causing injury to anyone in or around the car!
Do not probe the the connectors on the air bag(s) doing so may result in air bag deploymentwich could result in personal injury.
for more info e-mail me

mrranchero

RE:91 grand marquis
according to my 91 shop manual 6 flashes of your light indicates possibly 4 things at fault, either
1 the air bag itself,
2 the clock spring itself,
3 an open circuit in the diagnostic monitor -connector or harness, or
4 the diagnostic monitor itself.
I hope this helps and please do not attempt to trouble shoot this your self unless you know all of the safety precautions before working on the air bag system. the air bag could be accidentally deployed causing injury to anyone in or around the car!
Do not probe the the connectors on the air bag(s) doing so may result in air bag deploymentwich could result in personal injury.
for more info e-mail me

gchernya1

Just took delivery of the new 2000 GM (ABS/TC). When I drove it from the lot, brakes felt kind of mushy, with lot of pedal travel, and they are very difficult to modulate. Now, after 100 miles it got somewhat better, but anyway much worse then any car I’ve driven so far, including 87’GM. My question is: Are they all doing this, or it is just my luck? Will it get better? It is not look like air in the lines, because when engine off pedal is hard like a brick. Any feedback will be appreciated.

dhmacarthur

The post about the low brake pedal on the 2000 GM sounds like a problem. I bought a new 2000 CV last Spring with ABS (no T/C). The brakes felt and acted great and still do after 6000 miles. I traded a 94 GM which had ABS and T/C. Never had a problem with the brakes; the pedal was always firm. Quality seems to be good on the 2000 models, no trouble so far with my new CV, but have the brakes checked by the dealer! Better safe than sorry.

evilpancakewom

This problem could be due to a lot of things. Somehow dust and other particles will get into your brake fluid and will usually cause the ABS light to come on and they wont work. Another reason the ABS light will come on is if brake dust gets on the sensor for the ABS. I doubt its air in your hoses. You might want to check to see if the hoses are properly connected and secured. Other than that I don't know for right now.

aquanomics

Can any knowledgable person tell me where I can find aftermarket suspension springs for my non-performance package CV?

I would like to firm up the ride a bit -- some dips in the local highways really throw the car up into the air.

Thanks,

Philip Halverson