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Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

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    gobluthgobluth Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Odyssey that is giving codes for a cylinder misfire in several cylinders... The shop wants $650 to do the tuneup and replace the plugs and ignition coils... I've read where some people have replaced the plugs and coils themselves... Has anyone here ever done that, and if so, could you please post instructions on how to do so...??? Thanks.
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    cynjeancynjean Member Posts: 1
    I have that same type of shaking but it is from my tires. My mechanic said (and later I saw for myself) that on the side walls there are imperfections. He said they don't make tires like they use to. I hope your shaking is from something as simple as this.
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    cillakatcillakat Member Posts: 53
    "The VCM equipped Odysseys sound like a helicopter is flying above at a distance when in ECO mode. "

    Mine sounds exactly the same wether in eco or not. Exactly. but it's an '07. I don't know if that matters or not.

    :)
    k
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    highway312highway312 Member Posts: 3
    Brake fluid reservoir
    2 weeks ago, I had the dealership replace the front brakes on my 2003 Ody. I opened the hood today and noticed the cap was not replaced on the resrevoir. I replaced the cap but am wondering if this caused a problem with contamination (dirt) to the brake fluid or allowed air in the lines. Should I demand they replace my fluid? I hope you guys can give me some ideas before I called the dealership. Thx!
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    ee74ee74 Member Posts: 13
    No, like scrname, I feel nothing on the brake pedal itself, just the steering wheel. Since it only happens at higher speeds, I thought it might be something to do with the stability control.

    Since I'm getting close to the end of my warranty, I guess I'll take it in to the dealer and see what they say.
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    scrnamescrname Member Posts: 6
    ee74, please let me know what they tell you. you can email me at scrname which is at gmail with a suffix of .com
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    I've now gotten Honda Corporate involved. Initially, they responded positively. However, after making me bring it back to the dealer again (for the 13th or 14th time) just to have him verify that which he has confirmed ad nauseum, they told me its a "normal" operating condition.

    I've continued to protest and the Honda corporate customer service representative has now taken to: (a) contacting me at times and tel. numbers where he knows he can miss me and just leave a message, and (b) misconstruing my description of the frequency and the intensity of the problem in several material and significant ways in the messages he leaves. I'd ask for his supervisor or regional VP, but I can't ever get the guy on the phone (well, OK, I could have, once, when he called as we were about to leave for synagogue on Yom Kippur - one of the times I specifically told him I would NOT be available to talk, if I didn't practically hang up on him at that point).

    His latest "solution" is to leave me a message telling me that there is a "dispute" between what my dealer's service department is telling him about the problem and what I'm describing (TOTAL b.s. - and I mean TOTAL) and that, therefore, he wants me to bring the car to yet another Honda dealer and to let him know where/when I've made my appointmente so he can "talk" to that dealer as well.

    I'm not doing it. The next nearest Honda dealer is 25 miles away and inconvenient (b/c Honda won't give their dealers a service area smaller than the state of Rhode Island). Morevoer, my Honda dealer service manager (whom I have a lot of faith in as he has really been trying to help me) has arranged for a tech expert to come and work on the car next week and so I will be leaving it with them.

    My dealer service rep said something about adjusting the fule/air mix (to richen the fuel component) as a potential solution but expressed some concern about the impact it would have on mileage. Its hard to imagine the mileage sucking more than it already does, but I'm willing to give this guy a try at least and see what he says.

    Thoughts comments - always welcome. I am frustrated beyond belief. This is the 2nd Honda in a row of (3 owned) that has given me persistent problems. There won't be another one if they don't do something about this soon.

    -FS :sick:
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Any possibility the sensor that determines the crank is top dead center is mis-adjusted? I think there has to be sensing of that in order to have a basis to adjust the timing. I know you said the ECU and Knock Sensors both were replaced right? Maybe there is an additional sensor that is messed up.

    Personally, richening the mixture doesn't seem like the way to go.
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    I don't know at this point. Honda Cust. Svc. guy and I finally spoke today. Maybe I'm not being fair to the guy - I told him I wouldn't bring it to another dealer and he was OK with that and said to follow through on my plan to have the Honda Techline guy look at it next week and have the dealership service manager report back to him.

    I'm a decent diagnostician and a user friendly car-guy - I love 'em - but I also know where my knowledge limitations are. I'm kinda over my head here and, at this point, I really don't care anymore what's wrong. I just want it to either be fixed or for Honda to make it right for me by either: (a) buying the car back, (b) putting me in a new vehicle, or (c) adjusting my loan balance to reflect the added costs of running on premium fuel at a mileage rating that's 20% lower than what they advertised.

    -FS
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    jfrmachjfrmach Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Odyssey that has been relatively trouble free. Recently I developed a small automatic door problem. The handle on one of the doors would close, but not open the door (although the remote and the button on the dash would operate the door fine). This was a minor nuisance and I let it go for a couple of months but finally got around to taking it to the dealer.

    The dealer tried to rope me into $1,300 worth of repairs on the one door and recommended I do the same to the other door, for a total bill of $2,600. After I peeled myself off the roof, they admitted that in order to fix the specific problem I brought the car in for, it would cost about $300. I had them make the repair and I picked up the car (along with many dire warnings form the dealer).

    This got me thinking...I am a decent mechanic and was wondering what it would take to convert the automatic doors to manual operation. The car is 7-1/2 years old and I would like to get over 10 years out of it (only 90k miles so far). It would be a shame to junk the thing just because of the doors.

    Has anyone done this or know where I can get info? It seems like it shouldn't be overly complex.
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    jfrmachjfrmach Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info/advice. I had no idea all of these parts were available online.

    I had the specific problem (remote switch) repaired, but was just looking down the road to possible problems I may encounter in the future.

    Sorry for the late reply - I've been out of town.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    that site is great. i have yet to find a comparable site for another make vehicle. i'm sure they exist. but that one is awesome. very educational.
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    tampahondatampahonda Member Posts: 31
    Ok, I tried to remove these airbag safety warning stickers, which were emblazoned on my 2004 Accord. After I bought my 07 Ody, it didn't dawn on me this stickers would still haunt me and the tranquility of the interior of our home on wheels.

    I have tried peeling, saturating with water, rubbing alcohol, acetone, etc., but these lil sonofaguns dont wont to come off.

    Anyone have a clean removal solution or suggestion....please??!??
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Just thought you'd want to know that Honda took my engine apart last week and still cannot find anything wrong. Service manager says everything is working as it should and that there is no pitting or scoring on the cylinder walls and no chipping on the pistons - and yet it continues to ping away.

    And so, Honda has taken the suckers corporate stance and informed me that it is a "normal operating condition" for which they will do absolutely nothing further. The Customer Service Rep. refused to give me the name of his supervisor, (saying he had none), or a written determination of my claim. When I asked for the telephone number of his District Parts & Service Manager, with whom he had discussed the matter, he replied "I don't have the facility for providing you with that information." I asked him to repeat that b/c I couldn't believe my ears and he said it again, to which I finally replied: "Well, what the hell does THAT mean?!"

    Finally, I asked him to have the DPSM call me, which he finally did, but only to tell me that the noise is in all of them and that I'll just have to get used to it. When I explained that I'm already eating it in the wallet b/c the car gets 3-5 mpg less than it should and that having to put in premium fuel now adds insult to injury, he actually had the stones to accuse me of "buyer's remorse" b/c of the mileage issue - like I'm trying to scam a new car out of them.

    The DPSM then said each of the 6 Odys his wife has had in the last 6 years has done this (I pointed out that I am NOT a DPSM and that I DON'T get a new car every year). He next tried to tell me that this knocking is b/c of the close cylinder head tolerances in current designs for fuel intermix efficiency and he flat out refused to concede the validity of my well established point that knocking, regardless of engine design or Honda reliability, is BAD for an engine's longevity.

    I've heard the "turn the radio up" story before and it usually results in serious post-warranty engine problems with a manufacturer only too happy to tell me I'm now out of warranty and no longer their problem.

    Don't know what to do at this point. I guess I could write to the President of American Honda or go to Channel 2 "Shame on You" or one of the other News Reporter Trouble Investigators. But, that would just embarass my dealership, which I still need to maintain a service relationship with and which has, otherwise, been very good about trying to fix this problem. Plus, my wife really likes the car and there was really nothing else out there that met all of our needs at the time and was as fun to drive. But I don't want to pay $500 a month for 5 years and then have the engine blow-up on me.

    There's a chance my dealer can get me out of this car and into an '08 Ody with the VCM motor (less likely to knock) for roughly the same payment but I'm not sure that the math really favors me very much and I may just be forced to eat the added cost of putting premium in the car and running it as is for the rest of its life.

    Needless to say that this 3-time Honda customer is increasingly less likely to be a 4-time Honda customer.

    -FS :(
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    It doesn't seem possible everyone else's vehicle PINGs. I guess I'd call corporate (again).
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Agreed. Regrettably, it WAS corporate that told me to go fly a kite. Don't know where else to go to, except possibly a letter to the President of Honda of America.

    I may wind up just having to eat this and put premium gas in at my expense. Kinda sucks, but I can't keep wasting time on this problem - I'm too busy trying to live the rest of my life.

    They may have won this time.
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    mikesingmikesing Member Posts: 7
    Hello, I have 20% left and am afraid of going to the dealer where i feel i will get ripped off for a simple oil change!!wondering if i really need go back to the dealership !!
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    mikesingmikesing Member Posts: 7
    Hi i purhcased the honda in may have almost 3000 miles and 20% oil life what are the pro's & cons going somewhere else other then the dealer.My previous new car a ford i was charged hundreds for nothing more than an oil change on its 1st scheduled visit.
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    philapaphilapa Member Posts: 25
    I never go back to the dealer for oil change except the 1st free one. I have been going to Monro Muffler for the last 6 years. Only oil change and tire rotation, they seem to do a good job.

    I normally trade in for a new car between 1 to 3 years.

    I just traded in my 2005 Odyssey for a 2007, and the engine for my 2005 runs well with over 31,000 miles.
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    mytouringmytouring Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2007 Touring, I was told by the dealer that I can get my oil changed every 5,000 miles. I thought it was every 3,000?
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    dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Member Posts: 223
    I get an oil change with a new Honda filter, a whole bunch of check this and that, plus a car wash for around $25.00 at a dealer. I'm a DIY kinda of guy, just changed my ATF and saved about $40.00 on it.

    I would change your oil sometime after the mileage minder gets to 20% unless you don't get there in 6 months or so and then change by the months gone by instead.
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    tampahondatampahonda Member Posts: 31
    I have always changed my vehicles oil and filter every 5k miles (rotate tires every 10k). I find it easier to handle with 3 cars. However, I recently purchased a Touring and the dealer told me the same thing; oil change every 5k, which allegedly puts the Ody in the 20-25% oil life range. The dealer urged me, not to allow it to go below 20% oil life. I know my 04 Accord was recommended oil change every 7,500 by Honda, but another dealer urged (PUSHED) every 3,750 miles. So, when I questioned, How can the manufacturer not know the vehicle and engine life better than the dealer...they gave a song and dance, but basically, they want to see you sooner (more $$)...every 3750 versus 5000. Alot has to do with your personal driving habits: I have a 1999 Toyo 4Runner V6 Auto (2WD) with 98k miles. I have only replaced 1 set of tires and a battery! Not even the brakes (the dealership inspected the brakes and still ahev 60% rears and 50% fronts). My 04 Accords rear brakes went out at 22k. Different vehicles, different driving habits. Good luck.
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    bobber1bobber1 Member Posts: 217
    I've always changed engine oil every 5,000 mile and rotated tires every 10,000. Nice even numbers to remember. Just traded my Chevy Impala last week with 161,000 mile and I'd only gone through two sets of tires and the car did not burn any oil. I'd follow manufacturer recommendations during warrantee and then go to this schedule.
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    mytouringmytouring Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the info. I'll get the oil changed every 5,000 and rotate the tires every 10,000 I only have 400miles on it now, so I don't have to worry about it for awhile. I think dealerships just want to bleed you dry of all your cash!!!
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    mikesingmikesing Member Posts: 7
    It seems most people are agreeing with 5000 miles w/a tire rotation,but my concern is the check up? do i really need to use special oil from the dealer? or just go get an oil job elswhere as i do not have a maintence schedule book with specifics as have had previously before a computer told me when to change the oil
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    mikesingmikesing Member Posts: 7
    yeah i feel the same way i just hope if i go somewhere else that im not doing harm to the car....like do i need special honda oil? sounds silly ...does the computer reset itself after the oil change ? i know if i go to the dealer i will be overcharged and he will tell me that i need it!!!
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    tampahondatampahonda Member Posts: 31
    I take the car to the dealer. It really isnt all that much more expensive; oil change w/ filter $25+/- or $40 w/ tire rotation. Especially, while it is in the 3yr/36k mile warranty. I was in a rush one day, so had the oil change, filter, and tire rotation done at a Wal-Mart, while shopping. It ran me over $50 with Castrol GTX and Fram filter. Also, they messed up my alignment. It would have been less expensive at the dealer and included the Honda oil and filter.

    However, the dealer will try to sell you on the 10k, 20k, 30k, etc mile packages, which really, in my mind dont add up to being cost effective. If they change the oil and filter and do a 20 point inspection for $24.99, then how can they sell the same service on the 20k mile service package for $199.99. When I inquired, they explained they conduct a "more thorough 20 point inspection and lube the chassis"...OK, for the extra $175.00 DONT lube me! I typically tell them NO, unless it falls under the Manufacturer suggested service interval...NOT the dealers. Sometimes, you can get them to reset the oil change light, but not always. I have been lucky. Most times they wont reset it without performing the full service. Good luck.
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    speterson1speterson1 Member Posts: 228
    Your owner's manual has instructions on how to reset the maintenance minder if they don't do it at the dealership when you get your oil changed.
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    bg4bg4 Member Posts: 3
    Hi

    I have a 05 Ody EX-L with 35500 miles. SOMETIMES, during highway driving, on braking, i feel a shudder in the brake pedal and some of these times, the brake pedal shuddering is very pronounced and i see the steering wheel shaking/shuddering as well. This does not happen always - seems highly pronounced on declining sloped road and sometimes on flat sections.

    Is this likely to be a front brake rotor problem? And if so, should this be covered by Honda Warranty during first 36K miles/3 years.

    Thanks
    Bob
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    hannohanno Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey EX and your description of when the knocking occurs matches mine. I have tried changing to higher octane gas, but it doesn't help. It is intermittent and you can only get the car to do it under the right conditions - especially going slowly up a hill.

    I have mentioned this to the Honda dealer, but they have so far ignored this. I will take the car back now to have them check this out in more detail. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong with the car to cause this problem?
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    stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,558
    A question, since you mentioned going slowly up a hill. Is the engine lugging (that is, turning very low RPM, and not downshifting?) I have noticed that it is set up (for MPG) to not downshift unless it absolutely has to.

    If it is lugging, much more likely to knock (and not good for the drivetrain). You can hit the OD off button (to light up D3) which should drop it down a gear and up the RPM. Maybe that will help?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Had the same problem with my '07 EX just last week - exact same symptoms - pedal pulsation and steering column shaking when braking from around 65 mph. Dealer resurfaced the rotors and all seems copacetic now. Repair was covered under warranty.

    -FS
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    If you're having the same problem as me, its probably not as intermittent as you might think. I've found that its more prevalent than I originally thought, but that it is usually best heard as a reflected sound (as in when driving behind a row of stores, etc.).

    However, the best way to reproduce it (my service manager showed me this) is to put the car in Drive, left foot firmly on the brake pedal, and use your right foot to bring the rpm up to around 2000 rpm with the car straining against the brake at a standstill. You should hear it right away. Mine sounds like a small babyrattle (the kind that has a plastic pea in a sealed plastic cup).

    The dealer service manager says it has to do with the revised 2007 head design. Something about the top of the combustion chamber tolerances being tightened and the lean air/fuel mixture not quite cutting it in that environment. I'm not convinced, but don't know enough to argue beyond the fact that detonation = BAD FOR MOTOR.

    The ironic thing is that, after 21,000 miles of this, my dealer service manager had the engine apart and said there is no scoring on the cylinder walls and no chipping on the pistons, which makes me wonder if it actually is detonation. Thus, Honda has given me the standard "its a normal operating condition - we don't fix normal operating conditions" line and refused to do ANYTHING else.

    With me, adding higher octane fuel minimized (though it never eliminated) the problem. I find that running it on 91+ seems to work. At least for now.

    I got Honda corporate involved and they were incredibly rude to me. After distorting my claims, calling me at times/places/numbers they knew I would not be available at, and generally totally misunderstanding (deliberately I believe) the nature of my complaint, they gave me the corporate brush-off. When I complaint, the local DPSM actually accused me of having "buyer's remorse" after I complained about having to take a financial hit on premium gas on top of the fact that car gets way worse mileage than was originally advertised.

    Of course, I could start a class-action lawsuit and make 'em fix EVERY knocking Honda, but I haven't decided if the grins and giggles that would come with tweakin' them on my turf (I'm an attorney) is worth my time. Probably not....I'm probably better off working harder to make the $$$ necessary to pay for the $4-$5,000 extra this car is gonna wind up costing me in fuel over its life (assuming the detonation , uh, 'scuse me, "normal operating condition" doesn't blow up the engine early).

    -FS
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    hannohanno Member Posts: 2
    I'll have to try your method of reproducing the knocking. (especially in order to reproduce it for the Honda Dealer) Mine has a metallic tone to it.

    I also find that it makes the sound when at low rpm the eco light is on and I step on the gas. It seems to have problems at that point.

    I drive mostly highways and with the road and wind noise its hard to hear it under those conditions. After 20,000 miles the car functions otherwise extremely well.

    Thanks for the info.
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    hanno:

    Just FYI, I do NOT have the eco engine. Mine is a straight EX with cloth - I have just the regular V-6. However, you are not the 1st person I've seen on this board with a problem similar to mine and an eco engine. Kinda ruins the head re-design theory too b/c the head on your motor is totally different from the one on mine from what I've been told.

    Anyway...good luck!

    -FS
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    sunilk_14sunilk_14 Member Posts: 19
    Hello All,

    Please don't mind if I sound cheap.

    I am looking for All Weather Floor Mats for my Odyssey'07. I don't want to spend $200 bucks for Floor Mats. I am looking for cheaper ones.

    I looked around in Warmart and others. They do have All Weather Floor Mats, but they are specifically for Car, SUV & Trucks. But they didn't mentioned about VANS.

    Is there any way I could get cheaper Mats for my Ody? if so where can I get them? and what will be the price for them?

    Does these Mats from Walmart fit in my ODY?

    I appreciate all your Input.

    Thank you.
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    angelchicagoangelchicago Member Posts: 38
    Just bought 07 Ody so I am preparing for DIY maintenance. Read lots of good info regarding when to do Oil change...think I will go with the 5K mile point.

    I would be interested if there is a Next Best "Non Honda" Engine Oil Filter and Non Honda Engine Oil to use that will allow me to save some dough yet not destroy my engine. Kinda like the idea of just running to the store to stock up. I am not against buying genuiene Honda Parts, but I am against paying premium for name brand if it does not bring anything to the table. If I can find a cheap substitute, for lack of better word, that provides 97% same benefit to original I would be open to it. Any suggestions for alternate eng oil filter and eng oil would be appreciated.
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    wehnerwehner Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a new 2007 Odyssey. There is a maintenance list of items to be accomplished but no mileage recommended for each item. How do we know when things are due, oil chgs, plugs, timing belt, lube, fluid changes, etc.

    I've read the manual and it says the computer will tell you when things need to be done with codes that you look up in the owners manual. The problem is you don't know when something has to be done until it's due. No way to anticipate maintenance.

    The dealer says Honda has it all screwed up. He says if he does maintenance and resets the light it also resets the mileage and you never get past the first mileage reminder. How dumb is that?

    Is there a list of maintenance items and the mileage they are due?
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    philapaphilapa Member Posts: 25
    Go to Costco, you can get a set of two large and two small rubber mats for about $22. They are not made specically for a particular model. But I think to cover the whole van, you will need 3 sets of mat.

    Unfortunatley, Costco used to sell the mats in black, but now they only carry with either grey or brown. :shades:
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    orlandoflorlandofl Member Posts: 9
    I've been having the same problem with my 2000. I've replaced the spark plugs and then, the EGR valve, and I still get the multiple cylinder misfires. Replacing the ignition coils are my next step.

    They are very easy to replace. Here's how...

    NOTE: ensure that you wipe the dirt and debris from around the ignition coils. You don't want anything to fall into the engine.

    Remove the top plastic cover.
    Disconnect the wires from the ignition coils
    Remove the screw that holds the ignition coil in place
    Gently pull the ignition coil out of the engine.

    Removing/replacing the spark plugs is a little trickier in that you need to have a socket wrench with a 6-inch extender, and a spark plug socket with a rubber gasket to 'grab' the spark plug.

    The best deal that I've seen on these parts online is from www.HandA-Accesories.com. While everyone has the ignition coils for $50 - $62, these guys sell genuine Honda OEM ones for $40.

    I paid the $72 for the service manual and it's been worth it but, currently, I've misplaced it (moving; life in boxes).
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    it's possible the EGR valve is OK, but the ports are clogged. wasn't there a TSB for fixing that?
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Could you tell me if/when you've solved this problem and how? It sounds very similar to the multiple misfire problem I've been troubleshooting in my '04 Accord V-6 for almost two years now. Different vehicles, but essentially the same motor.

    Thanks much!

    -FS
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    bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Try PepBoy ... or www.autoanything.com has all kinds of all weather mats, from frugal to luxurious.
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    bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    LoL ... Costco membership already costed 50.00, otherwise you can't buy in Costco.
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    sbpceapsbpceap Member Posts: 67
    Honda motor oil is re-branded Mobil oil. Honda, to my knowledge, doesn't own a single oil refinery! So you can purchase 5W-20 Mobil oil. If you're going to pay extra, bring Mobil 1 to the table! I have used premium oil filters including Pure One (Purolator), Mobil 1 oil filter, and other times saved on Fram standard oil filters in addition to or instead of Honda brand. These other non-Honda filters are larger and allow more filtering surface area. I am annoyed that Honda says to use only Honda fluids for just about every fluid under the hood. They lose credibility when they say only to use Honda brake fluid, etc. Can you imagine something as important as brakes failing because we used non-Honda DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid? They would be guilty of criminally negligent homicide if non-Honda brake fluids caused failure. And if you read carefully, the small print in the Honda manual doesn't warn about failure, only "possible" contamination. Yeah, if you use brake fluid taken from uncle Harry's old DeSoto in your back yard! Prestone Antifreeze now makes a formula good for all makes and models. The only thing I stick with Honda brand is their Transmission fluid. Altho I suspect they're BS'ing about this also, I ain't willing to chance an expensive transmission for $10 in savings. I actually PREFER Honda brand air and cabin filters, as they are visibly superior to other brands in the number of pleats, with the possble exception of the reusable, cleanable K&N air filters. Buddha once said that if something doesn't make common sense, don't buy it as Truth. Just my opinion, and my '03 Ody has run superbly!
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    pberry7688pberry7688 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced brakes 2 times, EGR valve, motor mounts, and the radiator cooling blower all by 85,000 miles. I've had 2 Accords in the past and never put this much into repairs the entire life of the vehicle. Is this excessive or normal for a larger vehicle? I thought Odysseys were reliable, which is why I got this vehicle. I'm seriously thinking of trading for a Toyota Highlander before the transmission needs replacing. Your thoughts please?
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    hondalovahondalova Member Posts: 189
    Noticed yesterday that my wife's '07 Odyssey EX is making loud power steering pump whine noise when I turn the wheel to the left or right of center. Car turns one year old next week and has about 22,000 miles on it.

    I'll be calling my dealer to make an appointment on Monday, but I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem - is it endemic to the model or is it just a repair issue that happened to arise with my car?

    -FS
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    stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,558
    Well, I just picked up our '05 (32K on the clock) yesterday after getting a new PS pump and resevoir. Same problem, it would make a whine noise when turned all (or most) of the way over, more noticable when it was cold out.

    There is a TSB out on this, but I would have expected it to be fixed by the '07 odel year?

    Of course, I would have more confidence in that if this wasn't the 2nd time I had the same repair done (think the first was last winter).

    Now I wonder if this is an annual maintenance item, like putting on the coat of winter wax?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

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    hangaralf1hangaralf1 Member Posts: 107
    i don't think that they are "bs"ing with regard to the transmission fluid. i tried to buy tran fluid at NAPA auto and they said they can sell it to me but recommended an additive package that needs to be added to it to bring it to honda spec. it was about the same price wise, so i just bought the Honda tranny fluid.

    btw - i don't skimp on oil - I don't think that non-synthetic oil is much good past about 3500 - 4000 miles. i don't think that an oil filter can do its job for the 10,000 miles that synthetic oil can supposedly run. i change my oil and oil filter every 5000 miles with honda filter and synthetic oil (castrol syntec). Its easer for me to remember to change at this interval whether the car reminds you or not (which it does on my 06 civic - i'm not sure what interval my 07 ody lx reminds me).
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