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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • finballfinball Posts: 5
    I'm the owner of a 2000 I30 and have been trying to get information on changing the rear ignition coils for months now with no success. Does anyone have any information on how to do this? The front are fairly simple but I can't even find the others...any help would be appreciated.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You could also post in the Got A Quick, Technical Question? discussion. It is not make/model specific, but a number of knowledgeable people hang out there. Someone may have suggestions for you.

    Good luck.
  • the front ones are L shaped, the rear ones are straight and go in at a 45 degree angle. Check from the side of your engine, you will see them pushed a bit further into the engine (not sticking out as easily as the front ones). Use a magnetic pole to fish out the screw when unscrewing the rear coils cause its too hard to fit the hand down there and most likely your screw will fall when u take it out. You don't have to remove any panels, u can see the coils.
  • My friend drove my car with the SES tester in the car and noticed that the MAF sensor has bad readings. I'm pretty sure the pining noise comes when the airflow isn't going into the engine properly, or else the noise would happen all the time, not just as gassing up. MAF sensor and ignition coils are the main problems of the 2000 i30 so i'm not surprised. Your car's performance decreases too when your MAF is not running correctly.
  • daniel25daniel25 Posts: 4
    Hi. I have an 2000 I30 with 100K miles. For the past several months, every morning I start the car and back out of my parking space with no issues. However, when I put the car into drive and step on the gas often times nothing happens initially. Then a few seconds later the car will surge forward. The engine continues to surge/not respond when I press on the gas for the first 30 seconds of driving. Quite scary in traffic! I also have the "pinging" issue that other have (maybe the engine surging and pinging issues are related?). It usually happens going up hill @ 30-50mph. Recently, the check engine light has come on -- code p1071 (bank one lean). The majority of people on different forums seem to agree that this is a MAF problem. I had all 6 ignition coils an an O2 sensor (not sure which one) replaced last year....

    I'm ordering a new MAF today and plan to replace it myself. I've heard conflicting information about whether or not the ECM needs to be updated after the MAF replacement. Does anyone know whether I need to update the ECM after the MAF replacement? I'd hate to spend 200 on a MAF and for it not to fix the problem...

    Any help would be great! Thanks.
  • Hey Bud. You seem to be having the same problem I was having. The dealership actually tried to tell me that my transmission was shot (I30-T, 67K Miles). It was giving them an internal error code and the great acceleration my I30 had was gone. It would rev and lag then it would accelerate. High passing was a freaking nightmare! Anyway, I changed a few coils and also THOUGHT of changing some O2 sensors (lean error code also) but the car ran no differently when I unplugged a number of different O2 sensor. Frustrated I took it took a transmission specialist who told me frankly that he believed the car was just starved for air and was too new for a faulty tranny. He was running out of ideas on how to fix the problem when he called a buddy of his who had an I30. They brought over the other car, switched out the MAF sensors and presto!!! Car is running like a dream. Hope it helps.
  • daniel25daniel25 Posts: 4
    Crossing my fingers that you're right. The MAF comes in tomorrow. Will keep you posted.

    Anyone else have an issue with REALLY squeaky breaks? Went to Midas today and said that they couldn't find anything wrong with my breaks (pads seemed fine), but that they'd be happy to do a full break job if I really wanted to get rid of the squeak. Anyone have any luck with putting aftermarket ceramic break pads on?
  • Just another word I wanted to mention. I dont know how true this is but the dealership actually complained to me that I was using excessive aftermarket parts on my car and would likely have much trouble down the road. One of these parts was an after-market air filter. Service tech told me that non-nissan air filters usually have an oily film that destryoys the MAF sensor. Dont know how true this is but I changed out my old filter for a stock factory filter right after my MAF replacement as a precaution. I use aftermarket alot cause my dealership's fees are just TOO STEEP to keep me coming back. Only do on that rare occasion I cant get an answer to a problem.
  • mck76mck76 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 I30 the car was towed and ever since then the air bag light has been on. I asked at the dealer if there is any relation and they said no that most likely it is a faulty air bag module the cost of replacing this is about $900 according to them. However, they said that infiniti will cover the part but only to a mileage of 75,000 my car has 98000 on it right now. Any one out there have any advice or face the same issue.
  • rvenkatrvenkat Posts: 22
    Refugee, I suppose you didn't change your MAF sensor? If you do, let me know if that fixed your problem. The performance of the car is great and so is the gas mileage (21/22 mixed) despite the SES light. I started using 89 octane fuel with 10% ethanol recently and it works great. It's the price of 87 octane regular but gives better performance, gas mileage and cleans your engine to boot. I couldn't tell any difference between 91 and 89 octane though there was a significance difference between 89 and 87. I'd say don't bother changing the rear O2 sensors unless required by law (or you are selling the car). It's just a waste of $700 otherwise. But do change the front ones if they are faulty as they will reduce gas mileage significantly.

    Daniel, please let us know whether the MAF sensor fixed your noise issues. My ignition coils are probably okay for now as I don't detect any anomalies (yet) after 3 years (touch wood)...
  • i'm about 99% sure its the MAF sensor. if you have programmer plugged into your car when the pinging noise comes on when gasing up, you will notice it will show u an air flow problem and give u the code for the MAF too, i can't remember the code. I haven't fixed it yet cause my bicycle is cheaper on gas lol.
  • daniel25daniel25 Posts: 4
    Just replaced the MAF on my 2000 i30t. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I disconnected the battery during surgery (was off for 30 mins or so...don't know if that was long enough to reset the ECM), pulled out the airbox+MAF, unbolted old MAF, put on new MAF, put back togather, turned on car and the check engine light was off. Was able to gun the engine to redline in N (was not able to before). Took the car around the block....and was completely thrilled! Its like a different car with much more power/no pinging/smoother shifting. Best 100 bucks I've spent in a long time...

    First time I've done any repairs to a car myself. This motivates me to do some more stuff to the car...thanks for all the help!
  • g_leeg_lee Posts: 2
    I have a 97 I30. At first, the oil and battery indicator lights started to flicker simultaneously when I was driving. This happened more and more over a week or two, and then it would occasionally start slowly. Now it won't start at all. It acts like it has a low battery, but I checked it and it was fully charged and functional. So I've ruled out the battery and alternator, and I don't think it's the starter since the indicator lights came on when I was driving, and the starter should not be connected to the circuit when the car is running. Any suggestions?
  • churickchurick Posts: 16
    I have a 00 I30 and I had the same problem last summer. I would be driving down the highway and the brake,battery,abs,airbag almost every light in the dash would come on. replaced the battery same thing happened. I took out the alternator and brought it to a rebuild shop to get it tested and found a corroded brush inside the alternator. replaced that and haven't had the problem since... I would get the alternator checked....
  • I have a 96 I30 that my wife's parent's gave us last year. The car has run like a dream, much fancier than any car we'd buy for ourselves.

    Anyway, about a month ago, we were driving several hours to visit friends when we lost power, the engine became very sluggish, missing?, smoke came out the exhaust and we smelled gas.

    It was determined that we lost our Fuel Pressure Regulator. It was flooding the cylinders. We got that replaced and were on the road again. After a few hundred miles..... same thing. I had it towed to a different mechanic and he tested everything from the engine back and found it to be..... the fuels pressure regulator. It was still under warrantee through infiniti, so it was replaced for free and we were back on the road.

    So, a couple hundred miles later, same thing. This time I had stopped the car immediately upon first symptom, not driving it at all after the first sign. Towed to the same mechanic, he had no problems with it. It started for him and he drove it all over and couldn't find the problem.

    Now, after a few hundred miles, it happens again. The check engine light hasn't been on, until it happens.

    I called the mechanic and he is at a loss. He suggests taking it to Infiniti and having them go over it with a fine toothed comb. That sounds expensive, so I am looking around before I resort to that.

  • tguidrytguidry Posts: 2
    Did you ever get a response on your hesitation and dying problem? I am experiencing something similar. On cold start ups (4+ hours parked) and once in gear (reverse, usually), the engine stutters and putters (and will die unless I give it major gas). It jerks a few times and then seems to work itself out once I'm going. Fuel injector problem? I smell fuel a bit at the time I experience the problem, too. I have a 2000 I-30. Is this something I can fix myself or have fixed by a non-dealer mechanic?
  • tguidrytguidry Posts: 2
    On cold start ups (4+ hours parked) and once in gear (reverse, usually), the engine stutters and putters (and will die unless I give it major gas). It jerks a few times and then seems to work itself out once I finally get going. No "service engine soon" lights are on and it's not running hot. Fuel injector problem? I smell fuel a bit at the time I experience the problem, too. Is this something I can fix myself or have fixed by a non-dealer mechanic?
  • churickchurick Posts: 16
    I was driving down the interstate and I heard a loud clunk noise. The following day I would get a intermittent clunk noise when I turn a corner or come to a stop.I thought it was a broken CV shaft or assembly. I brought in to a import shop. they looked at it for 4 hours, couldn't find anything wrong. But they said they did get the same noise when they drove it.
    Has anyone came across this problem??????????????
    Mechanic said to drive it till it gets worst, I don't like that philosophy to well. the sooner I can fix it the better I will feel.....
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    A mechanic should be able to diagnose this problem by applying a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail as these symptoms accur. Given the repeated replacement of the regulator, this is obviously not the disease but the symptom. So one hunch I have is the fuel pump itself; another idea might be a sensor that is sending far too rich a mixture signal to the computer. Has anyone been reading the error codes here?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    Clunks can be tough. Sounds like a suspension issue, maybe nothing more serious than sway bar bushings...I think a good front end shop needs to look at this rather than a general mechanic. Sometimes alignment spacers can fall out and those are hard to spot. Anyway, there are all kinds of possibilities, but I don't think CV joints is one of them. Something is moving during a "weight shift" when you brake or corner. For safety's sake, check your brake caliper anchoring bolts and your wheels studs (unlikely but hey....)
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