Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

blueiedgod

Does anyone have paint issues with their CRV? I have paint coming off the hood with rust underneath?

Look closer, you probably have paint chips that were not tended to in time. Get a bottle of touch up paint, clean and fix the ones that are not peeling yet.

pdkesq

>>You were talking about the Mazda that is a
>>rebadged Escape

Umm.. actually I wasn't. If you read my previous post I said the new Mazda crossover. This vehicle is called the CX-7, and it neither looks like nor is anyway related to the Ford Escape. You can check it out here to verify: http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=upcomingCX7

italiadario

Hello folks,took my 2006AWD CRV in again yesterday after having the alignment done at only 700 mls, car still pulls bad and this time the car only has 2000 mls.Went for a test drive with the honda mechanic, and he found that the car has a pull, he reccomanded cross rotate tires, and so they did.After that i went for a test drive with the service manager(he drove)as he was driving he was constantly correcting the direction of the vehicle!!

As we were driving and i was noticing the problem still there(he of course denied it), I asked him what my options where, if i cant get the problem fixed is there a chance of a rebuy.(BIG MISTAKE I MADE)

From being the nicest guy in the world , he transformed like HULK and started to get really smart with me, so the conversation ended.In otherwords he said that he found no problem with my car!
Now i am going to quote you all in on what he wrote on the first workorder invoise.

"WE INSPECTED CAR FOR PULL TO THE RIGHT.WE CHEKED AND FOUND THAT THERE ARE NO PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR AT THIS TIME. WE SPOKE TO THE CUSTOMER AND TOLD HIM THAT THERE WERE NO PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR BUT IF HE WOULD LIKE WE CAN CROSS ROTATE THE TIRES. THE CUSTOMER SAID THAT WHAT EVER WE WANTED TO DO WOULD BE FINE. WE CROSS ROTATED THE TIRES AND TEST DROVE TO FIND NO FURTHER PROBLEMS AGAIN .THANK YOU FOR COMING IN TODAY."

I must confess when i read it , that time it was me who turned in to the HULK!!It took me 3 hours and a thret to call the police and|or a lawer and the intire management team to finaly have them put in writing what really accurd .
Now I will quote to you all the second workorder invoice from that same exact day.

"CUTORMER STATES CAR PULLS TO THE RIGHT, WE INSPECTED TO FIND CAR HAS PULL TO THE RIGHT,WE CROSS ROTATED TIRES. CUSTORMER HAS TAKEN DELIVERY OF CAR AND IS STILL NOT HAPPY. THANK YOU FOR COMING IN TODAY."

At that point i still had the first workorder in my pocket oviosly not sighed but in my posetion ,and good for me they forgot about it.Only when I had the "realistic"one in my hand i reminded them about it.By the look on there faces it seemed like they wanted to remove it from my posetion with force, so i immediatly exited the office where there was other custormers.They even followed me to my car trying to convince me to give it back, i got in my car and took off.
I am new in this country and dont know how the sistem works, and dont know what step to take now.
If anybody has any idea or experience in these cases please, I am open for all sugestions.

and also fill free to contact me at dariell@volcano.net

PS. PLEASE BARE WITH MY POOR ENGLISH

phil_qc

Good luck with your PTTR problem, in most case, it's an easy TSB and you're good to go... You can read about that on hondasuv.com

Philippe

isellhondas

Take a deep breath....

I think I would CALMLY go to another dealer. This should be an easy fix.

dianne4

My 2005 CR-V has been in at the dealership now for 10 days. It is the third attempt to fix the steering issues. I wish I had had the description terryp1 gave of making a wide left turn when I spoke to the service manager last Friday (like walking a leased pit bull...) I'm usually clinging to the wheel with both hands, the wheel is working hard to jerk back to the right. I can make the same corner easily with the 2006 Accord the dealer loaned me.
I have a question. ...When I go to the National Safety Association website, there are 3 TSB's listed for 2005 Honda CR-V. I printed TSB 05-022 and brought it in with me on my second visit to the dealership, but the other 2 bulletins refer to the pttr issue as well. Has anyone read these? I cannot open them to read, you have to pay to have a search done and it accepts only American addresses. The TSB I have printed was courtesy of a forum user.

tedtcb

blueiedgod wrote:
Buy "add-a-circuit' from auto parts store. Plug it into the radio, or power outlet adaptor fuse. It will come with a socket for original fuse and an additional socket and a wire.
blueiedgod
Thanks for the reply. I’ll check out your suggestion, though I’m still a bit perplexed as to why my regular routine does not work on the CRV
t
blueiedgod
Just thought I’d post the resolution:
It was the paint on the bolt I attached the ground to.
A little scrape and the Radar Detector powered up
Thanks again
t

phil_qc

I would like to know to... I tought that there was only one TSB (springs plates on struts assembly) for the PTTR.

Phil.

blueiedgod

Just thought I’d post the resolution:
It was the paint on the bolt I attached the ground to.
A little scrape and the Radar Detector powered up
Thanks again
t

Still use "add-a-circuit" to power the radar. This way it is protected by its own fuse.

tedtcb

10-4 understood
t

heidi4

I have a manual 2000 CRV EX with 134,000kms. I live in Quebec which in the winter time can go to -20+ Celsius with the windchill. It has been a nice winter so far with temperatures around -5 to -15 max. My mechanic told me that for the engine to last longer I should always put 10W 30 oil and not keep switching from 5w 30 in the winter and 10w 30 for the other seasons. He says that people think that the engine will not start if they put thicker motor oil but in fact 10w will start in cold weather and will actually make the engine last longer. He specializes in Honda's. Anyone have any insight on this?

atuzai

I have 2002 CRV lx auto with 62,000mlies. Recently my rear left door sensro was gone. The sign was when the rear door was open, the panel does not show the door open signal. And when open the door with keyless entry, if only open the rear left door, after a few minutes, the other doors automately closed as no doors open ever after using keyless entry. Also when stop the engine after drive, if open the rear door first, no ambient light on. From all this signs, I believe the door sensor was gone.

Anyone knows how to fix by DIY? Or how much it will cost if send it to dealer to fix? Thanks!

redsox111

I bought my my new 2006 Honda CR-V in October and noticed almost two months later the anti-freeze was not at the level according to the owner's manual. On my first visit, the service mgr. filled the atf a little bit. After checking it when I got home, I noticed that it was again not up to the "Base of the Filler Neck." I brought it back and they explained that I am supposed to check the ATF when it is running thus explaining the higher levels as opposed to when the car has not started and the lower level.
Disgruntled, I called Honda and was advised to check it when the engine is cold. In short, I filed a complaint against the dealer. Not only was my ATF below Honda guidelines, they provided me with a 2005 owners manual for an 2006 car!
My first question is, when do you check the atf level of the resevoir tank - when the engine is running or when it hasn't started?
I am now getting harassing phone calls from the dealer Clair Honda Boston (www.clair.com)because I complained against them with Honda.
PLLLLLEEEASE HELP!!! (THANK YOU!)

z1thousand

I own a 2003 model crv and have noticed problems while accelerating. Between 1000 to 4200 rpm the engine feels smooth and good torque is also felt. But between 4200 to 4500 rpm then engine Hesitates and feels very rough and jumpy until it revs past 4500 - 4600 rpm. I notice this quite aggressively in 2nd 3rd amd 4th gears, not so much in 1st gear. Ive had the plugs air filter and oil changed - 10/40 full synthetic . Injectors also serviced and computer timing checked. only travelled 60,000 kms - 37, 282 miles. Also has anybody made a manual 4wd locking switch for there CRV ? i have taken my CRV on the beach a few times and found it very good but almost got stuck once i had stopped. the front wheels dug in and the rears wheels didnt kick in until it was almost to late...... a manual 4wd switch would solve that problem.

fussycrvowner

Hello: I need to replace the headlight retaining clip on my '02 CRV. The clip got bent and allows the lamp to wiggle in the housing. The dealer states that the clip (a $2.00 part?) is not available separately from the assembly which would cost $300 - $350. Is there a way to get individual components separately without having to buy the entire assembly? I am open to collision parts sources or contacting the OEM suppliers. :confuse:

blueiedgod

I have a manual 2000 CRV EX with 134,000kms. I live in Quebec which in the winter time can go to -20+ Celsius with the windchill. It has been a nice winter so far with temperatures around -5 to -15 max. My mechanic told me that for the engine to last longer I should always put 10W 30 oil and not keep switching from 5w 30 in the winter and 10w 30 for the other seasons. He says that people think that the engine will not start if they put thicker motor oil but in fact 10w will start in cold weather and will actually make the engine last longer. He specializes in Honda's. Anyone have any insight on this?

I'd say get a new mechanic. The 2000 CR-V is rated to use 5W-30. The lower the W number the better it flows at lower temps. Yeah, any oil will do, but the repeated oil starvation on start up will eventually show its ugly head as excessive wear. The difference of "no pour" point between the 5W and 10W is about 20°C. As the temps get lower the parrafin in the oil starts to crystalize. Oil manufacturer's add "pour point" depressants to make the oil flow at lower temps. But these depressants wear out after about 1000 miles. So for the rest of your 3000 mile interval, you are starting up an engine with parrafin was in it for oil (not literally, but close) The lubrication does not start until the wax is melted and the oil is flowing, which may take 10 seconds, (Approx. 9.95 seconds longer than synthetic, 9 seconds longer than conventional 5W oil)

I'd say use true synthetic (Mobil 1, Royal purple, or even Amsoil) for the winter, as those are created without parrafin wax in the, and naturally flow at lower temps. Castrol and Valvoline sythetics are mostly highly purified dyno oils that have the same problems.

blueiedgod

I own a 2003 model crv and have noticed problems while accelerating. Between 1000 to 4200 rpm the engine feels smooth and good torque is also felt. But between 4200 to 4500 rpm then engine Hesitates and feels very rough and jumpy until it revs past 4500 - 4600 rpm. I notice this quite aggressively in 2nd 3rd amd 4th gears, not so much in 1st gear. Ive had the plugs air filter and oil changed - 10/40 full synthetic . Injectors also serviced and computer timing checked. only travelled 60,000 kms - 37, 282 miles. Also has anybody made a manual 4wd locking switch for there CRV ? i have taken my CRV on the beach a few times and found it very good but almost got stuck once i had stopped. the front wheels dug in and the rears wheels didnt kick in until it was almost to late...... a manual 4wd switch would solve that problem.

Change the oil to Honda specified 5W-20 weight, if you are lucky that goop (10W-40) did not damage the VTEC solenoid. If it is too late, you are looking at $800 repair.

Did you air down the tires before venturing out on the beach? Even JEEPs with lockable 4WD do that.

I doubt anyone has made a manual AWD switch as it is pressure activated and you would have to add an electric pump to pressurize the fluid to activate AWD. Once AWD overheats it will automatically shut off. Try replacing the fluid in the pumpking with fresh dual pump fluid. Do not use anything else.

blueiedgod

Hello: I need to replace the headlight retaining clip on my '02 CRV. The clip got bent and allows the lamp to wiggle in the housing. The dealer states that the clip (a $2.00 part?) is not available separately from the assembly which would cost $300 - $350. Is there a way to get individual components separately without having to buy the entire assembly? I am open to collision parts sources or contacting the OEM suppliers.

Call local junk yards and see if they have CR-V's. Most have "pull your own" policy.

pogs2006

Hello,

Has anyone had rust problems with their new 2006 CRV's?

The reason I ask, is that I was recently at a Honda dealership. It's January 2006 in Canada. So we are in our winter season. However, I was looking at the CRV inside the dealership and CRV's on the lot outside. I noticed that the muffler has rust on it. Could this be possible for a brand new CRV?

How can new vehicle have rust on the muffler already?

pogs

user777

FWIW: when people refer to ATF, they are generally referring to Automatic Transmission Fluid. This is not to be confused with Antifreeze/Coolant Fluid.

I'm no expert, but I believe a manual (05 or 06) will indicate that you are to check your Antifreeze/Coolant level in the radiator ONLY when the engine is cold. Doing so at another time is very dangerous because it will be under pressure and at high temperature.

I believe the level that is really critical though is the one in the resevoir. It should always be between Min and Max. If it goes below Min, you have a definite problem and should check the level in the radiator (but only when the engine is cold) and the rest of the system for leaks. If at MIN, I think they suggest adding Honda fluid to the MAX line in the resevoir.

Ultimately, I think your level in the radiator will normally fluctuate a bit and perhaps not be at the very neck when you look in there (again when cold), but you should see it. If you can't even see it when it's cold, or your resevoir level (when cold) continues to decrease, perhaps you have an issue with the resevoir or piping to it, or a leak somewhere inthe system.

I'm sure your manual tells you to use a special Honda Antifreeze which is pre-mixed with water if you need to top the system off.

As for your manual which you do have, I'd read the section on Engine Coolant, and I'd call Honda at the number in the back of the manual you do have and request one for the 06. Provide them with your VIN. Also, I think an 06 manual is available under "Owners Link" when you register it with Honda. The dealership told you about "Owners Link" didn't they?

heidi4

Thank you for your explanation. I appreciate it very much. There are so many people with so many opinions but no backup explanations. Your explanation was clear and easy to understand.

theracoon

I'm with blueiedgod on this one. 10w30 is only rated to -10 C. 5w30 is rated from below -30 C to nearly 40 C and should be fine for your CR-V.

5w30 is what I use in my 1999 CR-V here in Indiana, which has the same engine as your 2000. And while we don't get quite as cold for as long, we usually have at least a couple of weeks that drop below 0 F (about -20 C) during the winter.

mikefm58

I agree as well. I'm in Florida. Would pretty much any weight oil work from 5w-20 up to 10w-40? Coldest temp. in Jan. is about 28-30 degrees. Hottest in the summer is about 98. I use Mobil-1 5w-30 synthetic.

Mr_Shiftright

It's really the high number you should pay attention to. The low number is only an approximation and doesn't go through a scientific viscosity test.

blueiedgod

No problem.

heidi4

I think you should read through the messages on this website as it seems that someone else had this problem with a new car pulling to the right and it's a tricky thing but is not uncommon or unfixable. I can't remember the heading but it is something with "PTTR" in it.

Definitely go to another dealer though, it sounds like they've put you in their black book and will not listen to you anymore even if you are correct.
Good luck!

cpick

When I bought our 05 SE I was aware of PTTR and carefully test drove to determine if the CRV we were buying had it and it didnt. By 12,000 miles it did. After my dealer did the full alighment and TSB procedure with the suspension, it still pulled. I went back and they rotated the tires. That fixed 90% of the problem. With gas on (anything but coasting) the car will pull a little but would take about 2 secs to drift a lane to the right. With gas off, it does not pull.

My conclusion: The CRV has definite torque steer for sure AND is very sensitive to uneven tire wear. I realized that I noticed PTTR the most after I swapped out the left front tire for the new spare after a puncture! A good dealership should solve the problem to the point where it is bearable. Marin Honda took care of it for me.

BTW-pulled an 800 lb trailer today, barely noticed it back there.

jshoes51

I'm looking for a compact SUV for my college-age daughter, and the CRV fits the bill perfectly...except for one item. When searching the reliability ratings on MSN autos. com reliability ratings, the '97 through 2001 model all have red "X" marks under the engine category. Further investigation leads to the following reason for the red "X";

"An occasional problem on this vehicle is failure of the Exhaust Valves or Valve Seats. When the Exhaust Valves or Valve Seats wear the valves can burn. The cost to repair the Exhaust Valves is estimated at $250.00 for parts and $559.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include sales tax."

Is this really a common problem with the CRV's? So many people seem to be happy with them, and I always thought Honda made bullet-proof engines. In looking at used CRV's are there any factors that I should look for as warning signs of impending exhaust valve trouble? such as valve adjustments early and often?

Thanks

wuster

We have a 2000 and haven't experienced any problems with the engine. The car runs great and has been trouble free for the past 5+ years.

Heck, I got almost 60k out of the original tires.

terryp1

Your experience points up my concern. But, hey, I'm the guy who recently returned to the dealer for the fourth time for PTTR and all they did was switch the two front tires. That, of course made it pull to the left, at least till the underlying, structural pull to the right began re-teaching the radial tires to come on back over.

You've had the PTTR corrected, mostly, and then it returned. And now you feel the problem is solved. Please post on this again after a few thousand more miles. I suspect the problem, like Jason or Freddie Kruger, will come back.

I bought my 2005 with the expecation of driving it for five or six years. Do you think the dealer might continue doing the tire rotations, damper adjustments and wheel alignments every few months -- the regular "fixes" for PTTR -- at no charge for that many years?

I've said it here before: we're not doing brain surgery in the cargo area, we're hauling baby furniture. The constant and fine calibration required makes me wonder which of those tasks this machine is made for.

mikefm58

Valve adjustments early and often are a good thing. The owner's manual says to do it at 105K miles, but people here have recommended that be done every 2 years or 30K miles.

I've got a '99 CRV with 115K miles and didn't know about the valve issue until almost 105K miles, which is when I had my valves adjusted. But I haven't had any problems.

isellhondas

And they said they had seen "very few" valve problems even on high mileage CRV's. They also felt more frequent valve adjustments would eliminate the possibility of this happening.

tprince1

I also have a 2000 CRV EX that is doing the same thing when I drive with the overdrive on in slow traffic it vibrates & makes a humming sound & I would feel it in the gas pedal & would go away if I accelarate faster, but if I push the overdrive button to the off position in slow traffic I wouldn't really have this problem, do I need to take the car out of overdive when I am in slower traffic & put it in the on position when I am going faster like on the freeways? It's pretty confusing to me because the dealer did not explain to me when I bought the car that I need to do that & I have been driving the car in the overdrive position until just recently when the problem started. What is your recommendation for this problem or is it a normal thing for these cars to perform this way.

mr_questions

Hello,

I just brought a 2006 Honda CRV a week ago, and drove 250 miles now. Two things I noticed make me uncomfortable with this brand new product.

1. Actual gas mileage is 21 on freeway drive (no rains, no snows, no strong wind), not 22 (city) - 27 (highway) as specified. Will it get improved after the "break-in" period?

2. Temperature gauge pointer stays in the position of just little above the middle of the guage. I tested other 06 CRVs, the poiters are in lower 1/3 of the guage. Does my CRV engine works at higher temperature than other CRV with 1/3 gauge pointer position? My dealer told me it is normal, but I am not sure about what the dealer said.

Your knowledge and experiences on those issues are greatly appreciated.

blueiedgod

Hello,

I just brought a 2006 Honda CRV a week ago, and drove 250 miles now. Two things I noticed make me uncomfortable with this brand new product.

1. Actual gas mileage is 21 on freeway drive (no rains, no snows, no strong wind), not 22 (city) - 27 (highway) as specified. Will it get improved after the "break-in" period?

2. Temperature gauge pointer stays in the position of just little above the middle of the guage. I tested other 06 CRVs, the poiters are in lower 1/3 of the guage. Does my CRV engine works at higher temperature than other CRV with 1/3 gauge pointer position? My dealer told me it is normal, but I am not sure about what the dealer said.

Your knowledge and experiences on those issues are greatly appreciated.

How did you arrive at 21 MPG over just 250 miles? Check previous posts on how to calculate MPGs properly and at high level of confidence. 250 miles is just not enough miles to make is a reliable number to go by.

I get more than EPA estimates on my 2005 EX with manual.

As far as the coolant temp, see if it is low. You can find the instructions on how to do that in the owner's manual. If you have to add some, only add BLUE Honda antifreeze.

While your reading of slightly above the middle is within spec, I have rarely seen a Honda go above the middle point.

stevedebi

"How did you arrive at 21 MPG over just 250 miles? Check previous posts on how to calculate MPGs properly and at high level of confidence. 250 miles is just not enough miles to make is a reliable number to go by."

Actually, 21 is about right for 270 miles driven on a full tank in my experience. I get that in mixed driving. At all freeway I will get around 25 - 26 @ 75 MPH. How fast is the freeway driving? Also, are you stomping on the pedal, or using it more conservatively? Keep away from the 3200+ RPM range unless really necessary. Cruise control will help, if it is safe to use it considering the traffic.

I have a 2003; different transmission, but the new ones should be better than mine.

My MPG improved after the first 3000 miles or so.

jay2090

I have 2003 element and dealer says crv's adn elements are wearing out rear pads twice the rate of front pads. 25 to 30 miles is "normal". They say Honda does not acknowledge a reason/problem. If you have learned anything please post.

astropil

Thanks. I found that my 2000 CRV's rear end noises came from two sources - the gate hinges and the rear axles. 1) I oiled the rear gate hinges via the oil holes on the hinges. 2) I found that the left rear axle shaft was worn and was making a noise on turns. By twisting the axle shaft back and forth with a pair of locking pliers, I could hear that the outer joint was making a clunking noise. So, I replaced both rear axle shafts. The combination of these two fixes solved the problem.

drive62

Haven't heard that one. Seems like typical dealer BS. Sounds like you think yours wore prematurely. Since brake pads are wear and tear items it's going to be pretty hard to get Honda to cover anything. My $0.02

fasdog1

I purchased a 2006 CRV-EX in late December last year. After checking the fluids when we got home I found the
antifreeze at or below the low mark. Went back and added
more antifreeze mix and everything is fine.

Most of my experience is with Toyota/Lexus vehicles, but
find it common to need to refill the coolant reservoir
after the system has been drained and flushed and air is
cycled out of the system.

londoner1

I have a 2005 CR-V, the car is only 6 months old but in December my wife was driving and she had a puncture on the rear, she fitted the spare and drove to Costco where they fitted a new tyre of a different brand and put the spare back on the trunk and she was on her way. 7 Weeks later (last week) the car goes into Honda for its first small service, the technician notices that the tyre that Costco fitted wasn't only the wrong brand but was also slightly wrong in size, the profile was 1cm larger and so a few milimeters larger in circumference. Honda now say that due to the way that the 4x4 sytem works on the CR-V, the car will need a new clutch for the rear diff at almost $5,000.!!!. They also say that failure to change it may result in the diff locking up unexpectedly.!

Surely they gotta be bluffing, can this be true???

I mean lets face, a circumference discepancy of a few milimeters can be found between a new tyre and an almost bald tyre anyway, does that create a $5,000 bill too.?

Help me out guys, I'm begging!

I'd love to ignore them but my 2 year old kid goes in that car everyday and I can't take a risk.

PS, Please dont tell me to chase Costco, my wife lost the receipt and so I have no proof it was purchased there.

mikefm58

I'm with you, highly skeptical, almost to the point of laughing. A few pounds of air can make that difference as well. The brand of the tire Costco used means nothing.

Did the dealer say the clutch is definately gone and needs replacing or that it will go soon? You could also take it to another Honda dealer for their opinion. Also, try calling American Honda, the number should be in your owner's manual.

theracoon

Ask them if they performed all of the rear differential tests listed in the Honda CR-V Service Manual and ask them for a written report of the results of those tests.

Yes, the RT4WD system is very sensitive to tire size.

stevedebi

The RT4WD system engages based on the front tires rotating at a different speed than the rear tires (this indicates slippage of the front tires). The problem is that if there is enough difference in tire size, the RT4WD system will engage continuously. The system is designed to stop engaging when the heat gets too high. But then it engages again when it cools down. The bottom line is it can cause overheat of the components back there. This is due to putting in a wrong size tire, or replacing only one of the tires. It is recommended that one replace all four tires at once.

I would get a second opinion on that rear drive problem (AFTER replacing the tires, so the dealer doesn't have a "hint" that there may have been different tires on the car). An unscrupulous dealer might well try and get an expensive repair job when he notices a different tire size.

BTW, COSTCO policy is to replace tires with ONLY OEM compatible tires. They stock such tires. That COSTCO messed up and violated company policy.

blueiedgod

PS, Please dont tell me to chase Costco, my wife lost the receipt and so I have no proof it was purchased there.

As far as Costco receipt, they have it in the database, forever. All you need is the membership card.

I don't think the RTAWD is damaged, but the cicumference difference is not just mm, but more like 3.14xdifference in cm. So, if the new tire diamter is 5 cm more, then you have 3.14x2.5 = 7.85 cm difference. I doubt it affects AWD. The speed difference is mainly across the rear differential, not from front to back, because your other tire is the same as the 2 front ones.

Here is the thought. Put the spare tire in place of the new one, and keep the new one as spare. You can do it either now, or whenever you rotate tires next time.

blueiedgod

I think the Circumference is πd so it would be 3.14x5 = 15.7 cm.

poolwd

I just bought a 2003 CRV EX and it appears to have torque steering. The harder I accelerate the harder it pulls to the right. It does not drift unless you accelerate. I've only had the car 2 weeks and the Honda dealer says there's nothing that can be done to fix it. Any suggestions or should I just accept this. Want this wear out my tires?
Thanks for any help or ideas.

Bill

heidi4

I have a 2000 Cr-V LX manual. Recently I had to have the car towed because it would not start. When you put the key in the ignition the light would come on (the ones on the dash), the fan, the radio but there was no engine (as if the cut-off switch was not being acknowledged with the doors unlocking). I left it at the garage and when they went to test it, they pressed the cut-off button and it started right away. They told me it was the cut-off modual that could have had humidity in it and froze. Since the car had been sitting in their garage for about an hour before they tried it, it probably warmed up.
Needless to say I used the automatic starter the next day and the car was starting fine.
The following day I tried to unlock the doors and start it manually - and the same problem again. All other power and electricity but no engine. I called the guy who installed my auto-starter/cut-off/alarm and he showed me how to bypass the cut-off switch - still nothing, He came over and tried it - nothing. He used a harness to bypass the system and even brought a new ignition switch thinking maybe it was that - same thing. He has a few ideas of what it possibly could be but I want to know if anybody has any ideas.
Also, I know it makes sense to use the automatic starter to at least get it running, but the Honda alarm system with auto-start has a safety for manual cars and once you manually unlock the doors to your car without starting it first with the button - it disengages the starter until the next time you stop the car the way it needs to be (I'm sure those of you who have manuals know what I mean).
Does anyone have ANY suggestions or have gone through the same thing? Your input would really be appreciated.

rosmith51

My wife has recently experienced a similar problem with her 2005 CR-V that we purchased 6 months ago.

The engine has abrubtly cut off twice in the last few weeks (no warning lights). Everything seems to function fine after the engine cuts off (i.e. all the power systems brakes, steering, etc) and once she pulls it over to the side of the road it starts again with no problem.

We took it to the dealer where we bought it to get it checked out and they can find nothing wrong (no error codes, and can't reproduce the problem).

We're stumped and my wife doesn't feel safe driving the vehicle until we know whats wrong.

Anyone have any advice?

dan2006

Just had a similar situation with my 2004 CRV. Had all 4 tires replaced at same time. Local shop replaced the existing 205/70R15 size with 205/75R15. Honda service noticed different size and told me that I am now having rear differential problem. They could hear noise during low speed test drive. And they said that the change in tires will affect the AWD. Does anyone really think that this small change will make a difference? After all, the OD of tires changes from one tire mfgr to another. Any input would be greatly appreciated.