Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • pizza442pizza442 Posts: 110
    I don't burn my own cds. This code is coming up on a '98 Bose unit out of a "low mile" wreck that I had bought off Ebay and put into my '95 (with factory Bose, but no CD) a few months back with no immediate problem. It seems to be picky as to which cds it rejects. It played my "24K gold Master Recording" of Dark Side of the Moon album fine (I thought) but spit out a new cd that has never been played. I can hear a quick buzz when it tries to spin and read the cd then it is quiet for 15 seconds or so then rejects with the code. When it does play, I sometimes now hear a distant static-like "sfut, sfut, sfut" that fades in and out. How does one get to the lens to clean it?
  • pizza442 - just get a cleaning CD from any electronics type store. Should just be a CD with brushes on it.

    On burned CDs...
    I used burned CDs in my car all the time with no problems. A few hints to help them work better-
    1) Use Disc-at-once recording
    2) Use a good brand of CD Writer (I realize it's hard to change this now). If you have a cheapo CD writer, burn it at a slower speed.
    3) El cheapo blank CDs sometimes (not so much anymore) don't work as well. Try getting the Sonys next time and see if that helps.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    If you look under the dash, you will see three actuators, the middle one controls the blend doors and probably needs to be replaced. My 95 had a cracked center so it probably was spinning when trying to open the doors to give heat.
  • Pizza442 -

    FREON LOW - Thanks
  • Had my 95 parked at the airport for a couple of weeks,as I was leaving the lot I decided to use the windshield washers to remove the grime. Well, I ended up giving the car a rust bath. Turns out there is a metal bushing in the upper washer reservoir that had rusted badly.

    cheap quick fix was to buy a new reservoir from the dealer, $23.00, and about 5 minutes to replace it. Certainly better than trying to make the old one clean.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    What year is your car to be running 220+? Also, how do you know it is running that hot? (My 2002 doesn't have a very specific/well numbered gauge.)

    A car will run hotter in city driving than cruising because there is much less airflow through the radiator.

    Does the fan come on when it is this hot? Do you have a good mixture of water/coolant? Does your thermostat open? I'm not sure if the water pump is electric or not, but if not then make sure the belt is tight and not slipping over the water pump pulley.

    240 degrees is incredibly hot for the coolant to be running at. If this is in fact the actual temperature, you should probably stop driving it until you get it fixed.

    (I realize the original question was posted 2 months ago, so if you already got it figured out then I apologize)
  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    I too own a 2002 Cherry/Neutral 4.0L (nav radio/no sunroof). The Classic Auroras run hotter than the the new models. Both my previous 2001 and now the 2002 come to standard temp quickly and stay there (even in 100+ degree weather, idling with the air on). Perhaps the "catfish" air intakes (from the original Aurora protype) provide just enough air to let the engine keep cool. Though there are no numbers on the new temp gauge, the fact that it jumps to middle and holds says that the folks at Olds fixed the cooling issues in the new models.
  • The 2001 & 2002 have additional air passages thru the grill, the classics only have air passage thru the bottom of the bumper. This I think will give you better cooling. My fan comes on but once the gauge reaches 220--240(approx)and the outside temp. is 100+ and on black asphalt the fan doesn't provide enough air circulation. I have considered installing a 180 deg. thermostat. Has anyone tried this? Also I would like to hot wire the high speed fan to a switch. Will this work? Oldsmobile mechanics say it can't be done! Has anyone tried this?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Even on cars with grills, most of the cooling air comes to the radiator from the bottom. A car doesn't need a grill to have good cooling (my 87 Corvette had no grill at all). I wonder if the gauge numbering is not overly accurate. Sometimes the numbers/gauges are not linear. 225-240 is usually considered overheating for most cars. I would think by 240 degrees, you would get a warning light.

    A 180 degree thermostat will most likely not help. As it is, your thermostat opens a 195, but the temp soars to 220+. When cruising a 180 thermostat will keep the temps down to 180+ as opposed to the usual 195+. However, once the temp gets over 195, the 195 degree thermostat is just as open as a 180 degree thermostat would be.

    If you really wanted to try an aftermarket "fix", something like "water wetter" would work better than a thermostat. It works by transferring heat more effectively to the air. However, I've heard negatives about water wetter accelerating wear of cooling systems (nothing concrete, though). Summit Racing sells it (as do other places).

    I have no experience with "hot-wiring" a fan on an Aurora, but on Corvettes this was possible on early models up until the fans became computer controlled. These later models could not be easily rigged to manually control the fan. Earlier models used a temp sensor that basically grounded the fan when a certain temp was reached. In that case, the sensor could just be replaced with a switch "fooling" the fan into thinking the temp had been reached.

    My '87 had two fans, one controlled by the computer and an aux cooling fan controlled by a temp sensor. I could easily get the aux fan to come on at lower temps, or at my control. However, the only way to alter the main fan's behavior was by replacing the PROM (computer) with a custom chip.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Even if you could get the Aurora's fan to come on earlier, this too probably wouldn't help. If the fan isn't cutting it at 225-235, it won't cut it at a lower temp. The hotter the coolant is, the easier it is for the fan to cool it off or hold the temp. steady. This is because the difference in temperatures between the radiator and the outside air is greater than when the radiator is cooler. When the fan does come on, does it hold the temperature steady, or decrease it? If not, then maybe you should look into augmenting the fan, or putting on a higher-flow blade or something.

    Just thought I would ask this: Have you checked to ensure no leaves and such are covering the radiator? Also, is the plastic "front spoiler" lip under the radiator still there? If that has been damaged/torn off, then very little air will get directed into the radiator. This wouldn't have much negative effect when your car is stationary, though.
  • When highway cruising there isn't any problem keeping the coolant cool, it runs on the 200 mark or a little below, it is when I slow down in a traffic jam or stop and go driving in town, that is when the temp. gauge gets to the 2nd mark above the 200 mark. I have had it the the Olds dealer and he has checked it out and said everything is okay, fans come on at the correct temperatures. They said the Aurora's are supposed to run that hot. I am not use to a car running that hot!! It really concerns me when I'm in a traffic jam at an idle or creeping along at 10mph and the temp. gauge is at the 2nd mark above 200. I would think running this hot would cause other problems or parts to wear out faster? Seems like there are enough problems with these vehicles anyway. We have a 95 and a 97 both are great cars but have their share of problems. I wouldn't be without some kind of warranty.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I would worry a bit too. High temps can shorten gasket life, hose life, increase cylinder head temps (which can cause knock and reduced performance)and can warp heads and even blocks. If you are concerned, try adding fans(or modify them for more airflow) or using coolant additives (if you use coolant additives, I would stick with "water wetter" because I would trust Red Line Oil more than another maker of similar stuff).
    However, I will ask again. Are you sure it is running at 240? Just because it is two lines above 200 doesn't mean the gauge is linear (or accurate). Also, maybe you should confirm the temp some other way (via a diagnostic computer getting the temp from the Aurora's computer or maybe with a temp sensor or even a thermometer)

    I remember seeing (somewhere) some small cooling fans that mount in the wheel well and pull air out from the engine compartment, thus improving flow through the radiator. I have been trying to find them, but so far have had no luck. It must have been in Summit, or JC Whitney or a Corvette parts catalog. They were neat because they were about 5" fans, and you could put one or two or three in each wheel well depending on how much you needed and were willing to spend. I will continue to search for where I've seen them.

    Also, I get it! Everyone wants a warranty. I will make no more disparaging comments about them. :)
  • bjackbjack Posts: 1
    My 95 runs up into the 220+ range when in stop & go. I checked everything. Check the owners manual the 220+ is not a problem. If the engine gets too hot it will start shutting down cylinedrs to reduce heat.
  • Now you see why most newer cars have the actual numbers removed from the temp gage. Most are susceptible to calibration variation, but in many cases the seemingly high temperatures are just normal and not a problem because of the pressurized system.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for the pic, Zinc1. That really helped. Now that I know what the gauge looks like, I can speak more intelligently (not necessarily intelligently, just more intelligently than before) about it. First, it looks like the second bar above 200 may or may not be 240. The gauge isn't linear. Plus, that bar isn't in the red, so who cares? As long as the temp isn't soaring into the red zone, I wouldn't worry about it. The engineers who made the car are smart guys. If they weren't worried about the temps two bars above 200, then I wouldn't worry either.

    As far as when to worry; if the fan doesn't come on until 220, then obviously this isn't a dangerous temperature. This means the engine is getting to the upper end of its comfort range. The fan will kick on, cool things down, turn off, and then kick back on if the temp climbs again.

    As an additional note, most engines have a temperature sensor that the fan/computer uses, and a second one that goes to the dash gauge. Therefore, the temp you see on the dash isn't necessarily the temp the computer sees. Also, the temperature of the coolant is different depending on where in the cooling system you measure it.
  • pizza442pizza442 Posts: 110
    The information I have been able to gather: It states in my owners manual that it has a 180 thermostat in the first place and my Olds tech buddy confirmed that when he replaced it, though the guage seems to stop around 200+/- when warmed up. Also, all the Olds mechanics say the guage is not very accurate. And, through the years it seems that most GM cooling fans kick on at 235 which on my 95 Aurora seems to be around the second (bold) line. The only way to get the correct temp would be with a tech scanner plugged into the cars computer.
  • Has anyone tried using a 180 degree thermostat? My manual also calls for the 180. I asked the Olds dealer and he said I was crazy. I showed him and he said it had to be a misprint, they have always used 195 degree. Another mechanic I know said if I changed to the 180 therm. I would also have to replace a chip in the computer. Any thoughts on this? Even though the Olds dealer and mechanics say these temp. we are talking about is normal it still concerns me. Not much room for error. Yes, my fans come on at the correct temp. and most of the time the temp. comes down and the fan shuts off except in extremely heavy traffic and outside temps at 105+. That means the road temp. is probably about 115 to 120 deg. In these conditions the temp. gauge continues to climb until I can get the car up to highway speeds. I love my Aurora's but I would like to find a cure for the high temp. problem. I have replaced my strip at the bottom of the radiator so I know that is not a problem. I enjoy reading all the problems and solutions that everyone sends in, keep up the good work.
  • pizza442pizza442 Posts: 110
    The only solution I can think of is to find a way to get the hot air out. Two vents/ducts at the back of the hood by the windshield as on the Pontiac Grand Prix GTP would probably do it.
  • I am using this forum to let possible future buyers of Aurora's the problems I have been experiencing with my 1997 model. I purchased this car used and the problems started right after the 50,000 mile warranty was us. I noticed on the message board that another member had to have an oil pan replaced -- fortunately for them it was under warranty -- mine was at 55,000 miles and cost $1100. On the day I picked up the vehicle they notified me that the water pump was leaking! That repair was another $300. Not even a month later, the starter appears to be going on the vehicle. It hesitates when turned on and that hesitation when extended throws the time/date off. This car is self-destructing after the warranty period!!! and any thoughts of trading it in are out of the question because of the devaluing all Oldsmobiles are facing since GM has decided to phase out this line. Let the buyer beware! Oldsmobiles will not hold their value! Oh, I have spoken with Oldsmobile Customer Service and they did pay for 1/2 of the oil pan repair when I complained continually. They tell me there is nothing else they can do for me and that a $10,000 trade-in value is "good". I'm done with General Motors altogether!
  • Has anyone else with a 2001 Aurora 4.0 experienced a continuing problem with vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel, gas pedal, and seat at highway speeds (anywhere from 40-70+ mph) on smooth roads that wasn't resolved by the dealer rebalancing the tires? If so, what was done to remedy the problem? Many thanks!
Sign In or Register to comment.