Lost? Ask the M&R Host for directions!

markz2k

Excuse me, but where's the restroom?

Mr_Shiftright

Down the Hall, past Warranties, you'll see a sign that says Danger, High Voltage. It's right in there.

markz2k

OW! That hurt! I'm gonna sue!

seelig

to that too........say 60/40 sound bout right?

Mr_Shiftright

Nope, you can't. There was a sign on the door.

markz2k

60/40 is ok with me. Just have to convince the jury the sign didn't matter. (Shouldn't be too tough.) Maybe Edmunds should just settle? Exclusive use of an '02 BMW 330I for 3 years will do.

seelig

now thaat's a sweet machine.....wifey wants the 328I convert............but yeah, i didn't see a sign either......i think we got em......<;)

Mr_Shiftright

Next time, no witnesses........

markz2k

So, do I come down to the LA offices to pickup my 330, or will you deliver?

BMW just did the "Drive to find a cure" (for breast cancer) event out here, I got to drive a 330 (and 325, and X5, and 540, and 530, and 740, and Z3) for 10 miles each. What a blast! Check out BMWUSA.com for when they'll be in your neighborhood.

contourv6

Has anyone had any success getting Ford/Nissan to pay for replacement of broken exhaust manifold bolts when vehicle is out of warranty? Mechanic told me the heads must be removed to gain access to drill out the broken studs. Are there any other fixes available? Per the NHTSA site "consumer complaints" this is a common problem for this model. Some have had it done 2 or more times.

hrvat

Hi:

It seems this website is quite different from the last time I was here. Previously, if I wanted to read reviews from the posters here, I would simply go to Nissan (for example) and then click on REVIEWS and it would take me to all of the postings for that specific car and model.

How do I access this page?
Heeeeeelp!!!

Karen_S

Hello and welcome back!

Did you access the Nissan(or whatever make/model) from the home page? Click on New or Used, choose the make, then model. At the top of the info page for that model, click on Reviews. At the top of the page under the title "Overview", click on "Consumer Ratings & Comments".

Hope this helps!

KarenS
Senior Host
Owner's Clubs

mmakher

My vehicle was not driven for about 4-5 months. When I tried to start it, the battery appeared to be dead -- so I called AAA. They said it wasn't the battery, but the starter. The vehicle was towed to a dealership who called the next day to say it was the battery. But, they needed to perform a complete diagnostic test which required a new battery. Fine -- So they called back 3 hours later to say that the engine had to be replaced because it was locked up. The rebuilt engine is not available so they have to order it new at a cost of $7500.00. I told him to stop working.

How could they perform any type of diagnostic test if the engine was "locked up". Where else can I go to get the engine replaced, if necessary? or do I want to have this current engine rebuilt?? It is a 5-speed, V-6, 2.5L. It has about 57000 miles on it, excellent maintenance history and no prior problems. Now what???

tan7

I bought my Audi A4 just two months ago and at 300 miles i already heard some tick sound at the passenger side,i bring the car to the dealer and they told me that it was a suspension bushing. they order the part and after two weeks of waiting for the part finally came. they said they fix it,as soon as I came out of the dealer lot i still heard that tick sound.I called them the following day and they told me that the mechanic test drove it and they dont hear anymore sound.they put more than 50 miles on my car in one day and they dont hear the tick sound. is there any honest dealer in LA I dont want to go back again in KEYES AUDI. I have a bad experience in that place.

Mr_Shiftright

TAN 7----You can get the name of another dealer by calling: 1-800-FOR-AUDI

MMAKHER--this is a very odd story that doesn't make sense to me as presented. What it sounds like is either a) you stopped driving the car when it started making horrible noises and was ready to seize up or b) you just shut down a normally operating engine and it seized up by itself?

Possibly this is a mis-diagnosis, in that the starter motor has jammed in the flywheel, and this will keep the engine from turning and of course the starter from operating. I suggest you have the starter removed and then test for a seized engine. This is a proper diagnosis.

CONTOUR6--if you don't see this subject in the list of our discussion here, start a new discussion on the Villager intake studs and see if someone has had any luck tracking down some sort of "hidden warranty" on this.

Mr. Shiftright
Host

mjbwrtr

i was driving down the highway tonight and i remembered that someone told me to shift to neutral in my automatic Ranger to get better mileage. i wanted to see if there was truth to it so i shifted. well...the gearshift slipped past "N" into REVERSE. the truck made a "wham" noise and acted as if it had hit a bump, in the split second it took me to return to "drive."
no strange noises since and no problems. i am sure someone, somewhere else, has done this before...any advice? i am under warranty...should i take it into the service department on monday and admit what a retard i am?

Mr_Shiftright

Well NOOOOOOOOOOOO....you don't wanna do that.

You're probably fine. If it didn't break, you're lucky.

And who is giving you this kind of advice? Shifting a car into neutral is dangerous...it's tough on brakes and you have no power for maneuvers.

Consider that you got a shocking but not drastic lesson in not listening to well-meaning people who don't know too much about cars.

cacos

Somebody knows where I can take my old Audi (1987) to repair?. Quality but cheap near Phoenix..

Mr_Shiftright

Well, quality and cheap don't often go together, but quality and fair might.

Gee, I wish you were Bay Area on west here I could hook you up.

If it's just straightforward work, a VW specialist would feel pretty comfortable with your car, except for the Quattro system perhaps.

uhclem6

Does anyone know where I can find information on how to spot whether a car has had body repair performed on it? Ideally, something showing pictures of telltales signs of structural damage, etc.

Thanks,
Jon

Mr_Shiftright

Here's a site with a few tips:

http://www.attorneygeneral.gov/ppd/bcp/car/usedcar.cfm

I'll tell you one thing though Jon...if the car was repaired well, you may never be able to tell. Mostly its the bad jobs you can spot.

Also, you can pay a small fee to www.carfaxonline.com, and submit the VIN #, and they will tell you if the car was ever totalled (but they can't tell if it just had a fender bender).

First thing I look for is overspray...where paint appears on tires, rubber seals, door locks, etc. And a small magnet is a great tool for detecting plastic bondo...but keep in mind of course than many bumpers and rocker panels these days are not metal!

svander1

I was wondering if anyone knew how to remove the inside cover on the rear hatch to gain access to remove the rear wiper motor on a 96 Ford Windstar?

kinley

"Ecology fee" on repair bills? My latest statement included an ecology fee of $9.50. It costs them $9.50 to throw away my old set of plug wires? The addition of this apparent "rip off" discourages me from returning to that shop.

Mr_Shiftright

$9.50? I've heard of small recycling fees, but you know, my feeling is that $9.50 is padding.

Any reccycling costs should be built into the cost of your doing business.

Theoretically, only those customers whose cars have committed some toxic waste spill are charged, but you know, I wonder.

Next thing we'll be seeing this on our Repair Orders:

Gas: $22.45
Water: $10.25
Electricity: $5.55

I'd scream my bloody head off about that if I were you.

a_m_bancroft

In one topic, someone mentioned a "see all responses" option in the TH (I presume this means I can see all messages, not just 20 at a time).

For the life of me, I can't see this option. Where is it?

tneal

I recently got a dent in my passenger door. No paint was chipped, and it is not creased. It seems like I can knock it back into place with a rubber mallad. Can someone please tell me how to remove the door panel. The car does not have power windows or power locks.

Mr_Shiftright

bancroft---I think they were referring to old software we used to use. I'm not aware of that function currently being in place.

tneal--most door panels come off like this (but please check with Ford).

You first take off the armrest (two screws hidden in bottom). They you need to remove the door handle (often there is a hidden screw behind a plastic piece that you pry out, behind the handle), Then you pull the panel's little plastic snaps off (there are a number of them around the entire perimeter of the panel, and you gently pull on the panel until they "pop" out. The snaps remain attached tot he panel. Then you LIFT the panel toward the top of the door.

Then you will see a plastic sheet that you have to peel off, and you're in. When you are done, be SURE to tape the plastic sheet back on. Very important little item!

Host

kinley

In taking your advice I 'phoned the Service Manager & calmly informed him how I was feeling about the $9.50 misc./removal fee and that for $9.50 I was willing to take the old wire set home and through it out in my own garbage can. I also mentioned I accepted his higher than local labor rate, higher than local sales tax rate, but the Misc./Removal fee just didn't get accepted. He is sending me a check for $9.50 and I Thank You for giving me the push to ask for it.

Mr_Shiftright

You had it coming, good for you.

crashtestdingo

Mr. Shiftright (Nigel is it?), I posted a message previously (maybe I started a new discussion, maybe not) about making my father's '87 Chevy Nova safer, and now I can't find it. It's not listed in my profile. Does this mean no one but you replied, and it was deleted? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Kirstie_H

dingo, how long ago was this posted? I'll have a look for it. It may have been archived or deleted.

If you don't feel the topic was adequately addressed, feel free to create a new topic, or better yet, find an existing topic that is active. You're always more likely to get a response by posting in a more general topic... the more specific the title (year, make, model, problem), the less likely you will be to get an answer as it will appear to be only of interest to those who own or have own an 87 Chevy Nova. Alternatively, you can create a topic with a more general title.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

nickm2

I've heard that it's always good to buy your car at the same dealership you plan to have it serviced at- does that really make a difference? I'm trying to follow that advice, but wondering if its really worth all the effort- the dealership closest to my house doesn't have the options I'm looking for, but has found it at another dealership about 50 miles away- I would think the transfer of inventory would be a simple process, but its been a week and I can't get a straight answer or ETA. Should I just go to the dealer 50 miles away and get the car I know is there? I'm not planning on getting a ton of service there other than the recommended service intervals, but heaven forbid something significant pops up that is under warranty, is there a difference between taking it to a dealer that you bought the car from or another one? Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

I think there CAN be a difference, but maybe so, maybe no. It depends, really, on what type of relationship you establish with the dealer and the service people. I think if you are a fair and reasonable person, they will look forward to you coming in no matter where you bought the car.

Sure, maybe buying at the same dealer you service at might get you a small favor now and then, but I don't think it has as much impact as how you and the dealer treat each other as people.

As for dealers taking cars out of inventory to send elsewhere--if you are trying to pry a very popular car with popular options out of another dealer, so that he'll send it to your dealer, this may not work. You could be getting stalled on either end, who knows? Some dealers play games.

tarby07

Hi guys!! First, I've had a problem with my '99 Grand Prix GT leaking. Only after a good rain or a car wash, my passenger side floor is getting very wet. Any experience with this? I am told there is a holding tank of some sort with a drain hose that drains underneath the car that may be clogged. I can't find it. Help?
Second, yesterday the blower in my HVAC system stopped working. I found the HVAC HI 30 amp fuse blown. I replaced it, and now have high blower speed ONLY. I checked the other HVAC related fuses and can't find one blown. All blower speeds went out at once. Any ideas? And do you think these two problems could be related?
I would greatly appreciate any help you could give. THANKS!!!

Mr_Shiftright

tarby--I'd post the blower question in our topic entitled "Electrical Gremlins" and then start another topic called "Water Leaks" and post the other question there, okay?

Mr Shiftright
Host

chevyk10

When checking my oil the oil level is always indicated on the opposite side of the add/full indicator on the dipstick. Can I just match up from front to back to determine the oil level? I tried turning the dipstick around but it won't go in that way. Any ideas?

Mr_Shiftright

Now that's kind of interesting. Am I misunderstanding you, or are you saying that the oil level only reads on one side of the dipstick?

chevyk10

yeah, only one, the side opposite the add/full markings. weird huh.

Mr_Shiftright

I should say so. I'm rather stumped. It must be scraping really hard against the oil pan on one side, screwing up the reading.

Anyway, I don't see any reason why you can't read to the other side, no. Maybe even cut a mark there with a sharp edge of a file.

oilcan2

I am a amsoil dealer and user for 20 yrs,I d'ont
want to come on like I'm tring to sell amsoil
on these posts.My question is:Alot of users are
using the amsoil by-pass filter,on the newer cars
there is only one place to mount the filter,I
was thinking of starting a post to help people with similar cars compare and get info on where to
mount these filters ,amsoil does not provide this
info to my knowlege.what do you think?

Mr_Shiftright

I think that in spite of what seems to be your genuine interest in providing good information, as a dealer you would be soliciting a product and therefore rubbing against Town Hall rules on soliciting visitors.

So I would say this is not a good idea in Town Hall. Possibly other types of auto message boards that do not prohibit solicitation would be a good way to get the word out on your products.

eyeballs

i have setup a discussing (BMW, Bimmers and maintenace). How do i not make it a read only subscription and let other people post ot it?

Mr_Shiftright

Oh, what happened eyeballs is that the Roving Host "froze" your topic because it was being discussed elsewhere.

Here's what I suggest. Go back to your topic and cut and paste your opening comments, and then click on the Roving Host's link to "BMW Problems" and then paste in your comments there.

That should get you all the responses you need and then we don't have two topics going on the same subject.

best,

MrShiftright
Host

cdnindc

My wife had her airbags stolen from her 96 Honda Accord Sedan on the weekend. How much does it cost to replace both front airbags. I know they are expensive, but the dealer said the insurance might right-off the car because the value of replacing the airbags my be more than the value of the car. But the car is perfectly fine (minus airbags). I'm sure others have been in this boat before. What typically happens here????

Kirstie_H

cdnindc, we have two topics on the Honda Accord. Honda Accord Problems, and Honda Accord Quality Control issues.

If you don't find what you're looking for there, type in Accord in the board search box on the left and you'll get a list of a bunch of topics on the Honda Accord.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

eyeballs

newsgroup that deals with BMW owners and maintenance. appreciate it!

Mr_Shiftright

eyeballs--try a "groups" search through www.google.com

cenzo1

Both windshield wipers work fine however when they are turned off they remain in a vertical position when they should return to the horizontal position at the bottom of the window.

Any idea as to what I can do to repair the problem or should I take the car in to the shop ?

Thanks for your comments.

Cenzo 1

burrsr

I have a 2001 Z3 2.5 that was rear-ended while parked in the street several months ago. It was 100% restored by a top-notch mechanic (to the tune of $8,000+, thank you insurance!). Everything is great EXCEPT one minor complaint: when tracking perfectly straight, the steering wheel points to the right by about 2 degrees. The car does not pull to either side under hard acceleration, hard braking, or coasting conditions, and the mechanic ensured me that all alignment, frame, and suspension components are back to factory standards.

My question is this: is there a simple steering rod adjustment that can be done to return the steering wheel to its normal straight-ahead position? Or does (as my dealer told me) an alignment need to be performed? I tend to believe the former, since the mechanic did this once, but I want to be better informed, since I am no expert on rack-and-pinion steering system adjustments.

Thanks in advance.

Mr_Shiftright

CENZO-- you might post this in our "Electrical Gremlins" topic. I think the problem is in the wiper motor itself. You might find that motor and clean the connections that go to it, maybe even smearing on some "dialectic grease" on the contacts for the plug in.

BURRSR--you should be able to "center" the steering wheel on this car, yes, either under the car or up top. You might start a new topic called "Wheel Alignment" and then post your question there. In that way, you'll get your question answered hopefully and then others can also post alignment questions.

thanks,

Host

kw_carman

Hosts, I hate to be the tattletale, but having two Ford Taurus problem boards is confusing.

Thanks for all you do!